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Dr. Martens plc

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Sector Consumer Cyclical
Industry Apparel - Footwear & Accessories
Employees 2630
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FY2023 Annual Report · Dr. Martens plc
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DR. MARTENS PLC 
ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 STRATEGIC REPORT 

Overview 

Strategic introduction 

Performance overview 

Chair’s statement 

At a glance 

Our culture and values 

Investment case 

Business review

CEO’s statement 

Market review 

Our business model  

Stakeholder engagement and  
Section 172 Statement 

Our strategy 

Our strategy in action 

Key performance indicators  

Finance review 

Risk management and our principal risks 

Viability assessment and going concern 

Sustainability

Sustainability 

Our TCFD disclosures 

Non-financial information statement 

 GOVERNANCE 

Chair’s introduction to governance 

Governance at a glance 

Board of Directors 

Governance report 

Global Leadership Team 

Corporate Governance at Dr. Martens 

Nomination Committee report 

Remuneration Committee report 

Remuneration report 

Audit and Risk Committee report 

Directors’ report 

 FINANCIAL STATEMENTS 

Independent Auditors’ report 

Consolidated Statement of Profit or Loss 

Consolidated Statement of 
Comprehensive Income 

Consolidated Balance Sheet 

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108

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136

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151

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165

172

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174

Consolidated Statement of Changes in Equity  175 

Consolidated Statement of Cash Flows 

Consolidated Non-GAAP  
Statement of Cash Flows 

Notes to the Consolidated  
Financial Statements 

Parent Company Balance Sheet 

Parent Company Statement  
of Changes in Equity 

Notes to the Parent Company  
Financial Statements 

 ADDITIONAL INFORMATION 

Five-year financial summary (unaudited) 

First half/second half analysis (unaudited) 

Glossary and Alternative  
Performance Measures (APMs) 

Shareholder information 

Company information 

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DR. MARTENS IS AN ICONIC 
BRAND SELLING TO CONSUMERS 
IN MORE THAN 60 COUNTRIES

The first boot was born on 1 April 1960 in 
Wollaston, England, and was so called the 
‘1460’. For over six decades since, Dr. Martens 
has transcended youth and subcultures, 
demonstrating its unrivalled appeal and 
ability to underpin trends. 

financial highlights

Pairs m 

13.8m

2022: 14.1m

EBITDA1 £m 

£245.0m

2022: £263.0m

Revenue £m

£1,000.3m

2022: £908.3m

PBT £m

£159.4m

2022: £214.3m

1.   EBITDA – Earnings before exchange gains/losses, finance income/expense, income tax, 

depreciation and amortisation. 

drmartensplc.com

Dr. Martens plc

drmartensofficial

DELIVERING
LONG-TERM 
RESILIENCE

  OUR STRATEGY IN ACTION P32

Like our iconic and timeless Originals, we are a resilient company  
with strong foundations. We take a long-term approach to 
decision-making. We continue to invest for future growth  
including opening more stores, increasing marketing spend, making  
key people hires and ensuring full product availability. We make 
exceptional footwear and champion Rebellious Self Expression  
through our strong global brand and timeless product appeal.

Our continued success will be built on the execution of  
our DOCS strategy. It serves as the guiding light for our brand  
and it sits at the heart of everything – ensuring that we make  
the right decisions and deliver long-term impact.

  OUR STRATEGY P30

  SUSTAINABILITY P62

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

1

STRATEGIC REPORTPerformance overview

HIGHLIGHTS

OF THE YEAR

STR ATEGIC Highlights

 DTC FIRST 

 ORGANISATIONAL 
 AND OPERATIONAL 
 EXCELLENCE 

 CONSUMER  
 CONNECTION 

 SUPPORT BRAND  
 EXPANSION  
 WITH B2B 

Direct-to-consumer (DTC)  
mix up 3%pts

ERP 
implemented in Japan – now

BRAND STRENGTH: 
Awareness 

Wholesale revenue  
per account1 up 

52%

DTC revenue up

16%

Opened 

52

new stores including 14 Japan 
franchise stores

95% 

of global revenues on MD365

72%

OMNICHANNEL 
TRIAL IN THE UK

Opened 

3

new DCs

Familiarity

47%

Increased marketing spend  
as a percentage of revenue  
by 0.4%pts to 

5.2%

SUCCESSFUL 
CAMPAIGNS 
such as ‘All Access Summer’ 
and ‘Unpolished’

15%

28 

new AMP wholesale  
accounts added

5% 

less wholesale accounts

  READ MORE P32

  READ MORE P34

  READ MORE P36

  READ MORE P38

1.   Revenue per accounts is calculated as revenue divided by average number of accounts in the year, excluding Italy due to the impact of its FY22 conversion.

2

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Sustainability Highlights

Planet

Product

PEOPLE

Submitted our Science-Based Targets  
for verification which set out our plan  
to become a Net-Zero business by

RECOMMERCE
Repair and resale trial successfully 
launched in the UK

2040

SOURCED

91%

of the electricity for our EMEA and UK 
operations from renewable sources

INVESTED
in leading materials innovation 
company to support industry-wide 
adoption of sustainable materials

Removal of non-recyclable plastic foam 
divider from the packaging across

35%

of the AW23 footwear volume

100%

of our Tier 1 and Key Tier 2 suppliers  
CSR audited met our high standards1

Dr. Martens Foundation launched the 
Right to Be flagship programme and 
awarded 34 organisations a total of

£2.4M

  READ MORE P68

  READ MORE P76

  READ MORE P84

1. Audit results above 75% scoring for Tier 1, and above 70% for Key Tier 2, in line with Intertek Workplace Conditions Assessment scoring methodology.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

3

STRATEGIC REPORTChair’s statement

DOING THE RIGHT THING

PAUL MASON  
CHAIR

FOR THE

LONG TERM

I AM SO PROUD OF HOW 
STRONGLY THE SPIRIT OF 
BRAND CUSTODIANSHIP 
RUNS THROUGH OUR 
BUSINESS AND OUR 
PEOPLE. DOING THE  
RIGHT THING FOR THE 
LONG TERM DRIVES EVERY 
DECISION WE TAKE.

PAUL MASON  
CHAIR

Having come through the 
challenging Covid-19 years 
with demand shocks in  
FY21 and then supply shocks 
in FY22, we made good 
progress to reach £1bn of 
revenue in FY23, but growth 
was below our expectations. 

The year did not turn out as we had 
anticipated. We still grew revenue by 10% 
to reach £1bn for the first time but this 
was below what we had expected at the 
start of the year. We generated EBITDA of 
£245m but this was also below expectations 
due to the slower revenue growth and our 
continued investment in building a strong 
platform for future, long-term growth, in 
areas such as our people, our systems, 
our stores and our inventory.

I would describe this year as one with 
‘growing pains’. Not only was demand lower, 
particularly in the US, as we increased 
investment for future growth, but we made 
mistakes when transferring our US west 

coast distribution centre (DC) from Portland 
to Los Angeles (LA). Those mistakes were 
failures of people and process and following 
a detailed internal report, we have 
instigated both a number of updated ways 
of working to ensure enhanced robustness 
in our internal processes and strengthened 
management within the America and 
supply chain teams.

The path to sustainable long-term growth 
is rarely, if ever, a smooth one and this 
year is a good example of this. As a 
Board, we believe the Company’s DTC  
first focus remains the right strategic 
approach to take and this will drive the 
next leg of our growth from £1bn to  
£2bn of revenue. However, this year has 
encouraged us to reconsider the optimal 
pace at which the Company can grow 
sustainably to this level and, as a result, 
we have reset our medium-term growth 
aspirations to ensure we avoid another 
such year. In addition, we will continue to 
invest in the business to strengthen our 
resilience and underpin this future 
growth. This approach will help to ensure 
our iconic, global brand remains in good 
health and that our Balance Sheet 

remains strong, leading to the Board 
retaining a high level of confidence in  
our long-term prospects.

People 
My admiration for our people has gone  
up another notch this year. In more 
challenging years such as this one, your 
people are even more important to you 
and I have been so impressed by their 
resilience and determination throughout 
the year. Our people are the most 
dedicated and passionate advocates of  
our brand and this is seen most clearly in 
our retail stores. One of the benefits of  
a growing, global retail footprint is that 
more consumers get the opportunity to 
experience the passion and knowledge of 
our people who work in our stores – they 
are extremely important ambassadors  
for the brand. This dedication and passion 
is also seen in our factories and offices 
around the world where the craftsmanship, 
care and commitment have been 
exceptional all year.

I’d like to express the Board’s thanks to all 
of our people for their efforts this year. 

4

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

GOVERNANCE

The Board’s activities during FY23 

Corporate governance highlights 

   Commissioned a detailed review 
of the issues impacting the LA 
DC and reviewed the remedial 
actions proposed 

   Strategic deep-dive sessions 
held with GLT members covering 
topics including Marketing, 
People and the Supply Chain

   Oversaw the transfer of 14 
former franchise stores in Japan 
into directly operated stores

   Reviewed and approved the 
FY24 budget 

   Approved the long-term funding 
arrangements for the 
Dr. Martens Foundation

   Approved Dr. Martens Net-Zero 
target for submission to the 
Science Based Targets initiative

   Visits to New York, Tokyo, 
Berlin, Texas and Milan  
provided opportunities for 
direct engagement with our 
stakeholders in these markets

   Proposed a full-year dividend of 
5.84p per share

   Approved the appointment of 
Andrew Harrison as an Independent 
Non-Executive Director with effect 
from 1 May 2023

   Evaluated the Board’s effectiveness 
in FY23 and reviewed the progress of 
the recommendations identified in 
the FY22 Board Effectiveness Review

Board
After the year end, Andrew Harrison joined 
the Board as an Independent Non-Executive 
Director. Andrew is a managing partner at 
consumer brand investment firm Freston 
Ventures and the Senior Independent 
Director at Ocado Group plc. He spent more 
than two decades at Carphone Warehouse, 
where he served as Chief Executive and 
Chair. He brings a wealth of experience of 
consumer-facing and technology-focused 
businesses and a highly entrepreneurial 
mindset. His prior experience as a Chief 
Executive and Non-Executive Director of 
large, listed companies will be invaluable  
to the business going forward. On joining  
the Board, Andrew became a member  
of the Audit, Remuneration and 
Nomination Committees. 

Governance
An important aspect of my role as Chair is 
ensuring that the Board continues to lead the 
business in delivering our strategy effectively, 
setting a clear tone from the top and 
ensuring that governance across Dr. Martens 
is robust. I am pleased to be supported by a 
Board that comprises a wealth of skills and 
experience and a diversity of backgrounds 
and perspectives, augmented further by the 
appointment of Andrew Harrison after the 
year end. I and the Board look forward to 
working with Andrew during the coming year. 

In April, we announced that our Chief 
Financial Officer, Jon Mortimore, will be 
retiring in FY24. Although Jon remains  
in role and as committed as ever to 
Dr. Martens in the meantime, I would like  

to take this opportunity to offer my thanks 
and those of the wider Board to Jon for his 
seven years of service and the significant 
contribution he has made to Dr. Martens 
during a pivotal period in its history. When 
he leaves us later in FY24, it will be with our 
best wishes for the future. The Nomination 
Committee is overseeing Jon’s succession 
and the Company will make the necessary 
announcement at the appropriate time.

More information can be found in our 
Governance report from page 131.

Sustainability
Dr. Martens products have embodied 
timeless design and durability for over six 
decades. As custodians of the brand, we 
are clear in our vision to build a business 
with sustainability at its core. Last year, 
we launched our new ‘Planet, Product, 
People’ sustainability strategy which 
supports our vision to leave things better 
than we found them. Our teams have 
been working to embed sustainability 
across the business and we are pleased  
to share our third Sustainability report 
which updates on our progress. 

Over the past year, we have continued to 
collaborate and innovate with leaders across 
our industry to deliver a successful launch 
of our repair and resale ‘recommerce’ trial 
in the UK, which is a step on our journey 
to Net-Zero. We are also investing in the 
future of our business and supporting the 
development of scalable sustainable 
materials through our exciting investment 
in Gen Phoenix, a leading producer of 

  GOVERNANCE P109

recycled leather. You can find updates on 
these developments and progress against 
our other sustainability commitments 
from page 62.

Dividend
The Board approved, and the Company 
declared, a final dividend of 4.28p per 
share, in line with the previous year. This 
equated to a 51% earnings payout ratio 
and is due to be paid on 18 July 2023. 
This takes the total dividend for the year 
to 5.84 per share, up 6% on FY22, and an 
earnings payout ratio for the year of 
45%. This is above our previously guided 
payout range of 25% to 35% but our 
maintenance of the final cash dividend 
reflects the Board’s confidence in the 
long-term prospects for the Group. Going 
forward, we anticipate future earnings 
growth will bring the dividend payout 
back in line with our target payout ratio.

In addition, the Board intends to seek 
shareholder approval at the Annual General 
Meeting to commence a share buyback 
programme in FY24.

PAUL MASON 
NON-EXECUTIVE CHAIR  
31 May 2023

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

5

STRATEGIC REPORTAt a glance

A GLOBAL BRANDICON

Our unique DNA
Our original icons, led by the 1460 boot, 1461 shoe and 2976  
Chelsea boot, sit at the core of the product architecture and  
inform the aesthetics for all other footwear categories.

COLLABORATIONS  
AND MADE IN ENGLAND
Pushing boundaries with 
cutting-edge collabs and 
heritage craftsmanship

3%

revenue1

9%

revenue2

SANDALS

We are moving towards our 
long-term vision of a 
regenerative and circular 
product lifecycle. 
For our product-related 
sustainability commitments 
see page 77

1 4 6 0

2976

46%
ORIGINA L S

revenue

1461

SINCLAIR

ADDINA

38%
Fusion  
INCLUDING SAN D A L S

revenue

JADON

9%
Casua l

revenue

COMBS

3%

revenue

BOURY

4%

revenue

KIDS 
Mini-me versions  
of our Originals 

ACCESSORIES 
Consisting of shoe-care 
and leather bags

1.  Revenue of collaborations and Made In England is included within the other categories.

2.  Revenue of sandals included in Fusion revenue.

6

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

ICON

OUR MARKETS

EMEA

AMERICA

APAC

OWN  
STORES

THIRD-PARTY
STORES

88
3
DTC MIX +4%pts

OWN  
STORES

THIRD-PARTY
STORES

54
4
DTC MIX +1%pts

OWN  
STORES

THIRD-PARTY
STORES

62
112
DTC MIX +4%pts

£443.0m

revenue

 Owned and operated

 Distributors

£428.2m

revenue

£129.1m

revenue

 Owned and operated

 Owned and operated

 Distributors

LOVED BY  
CONSUMERS

204 

own stores  
worldwide

 13.8m

pairs sold in  
FY23 worldwide

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

7

STRATEGIC REPORTOur culture and values

REBELLIOUS

SELF EXPRESSION 

We want the world to wear DM’s when 
they have their moments of Rebellious 
Self Expression. We believe that 
Rebellious Self Expression is a positive 
force in the world. It makes it more 
creative, diverse and accepting of the 
things that make us individuals.

Our role is to make exceptional footwear 
and to be the supporters, defenders and 
champions of Rebellious Self Expression. 

   Rebellious Self Expression is  
our brand 
   Rebellious Self Expression is  
our culture
   Rebellious Self Expression is  
who we are and what we do

There are three core values at the heart 
of Rebellious Self Expression. They never 
stand alone, but work together to support 
what Rebellious Self Expression is for 
Dr. Martens. 

ERIK ZAMBON  
STRATEGY DIRECTOR

BE
your sel f

We’ve all been the odd one out at some point in our lives.  
It’s how we find out who we are. If we never push boundaries, 
never rebel, how do we know what we stand for? Nine or 90, 
flamboyant or quiet, every day or once in a lifetime, when 
someone has their moment of Rebellious Self Expression  
and says ‘this is me’, we want them wearing DM’s.

ACT
Cour ageously

It takes guts to step out of our comfort zone, to help others 
do the same and to redefine what’s possible for future 
generations. Whether we’re alone or part of a movement, 
let’s have the courage to be ourselves and do what’s right. 

SHOW YOUC ar e

This is the balancing part – between the right to be and 
express ourselves, and the responsibility to use those  
rights for the greater good. We can be ourselves and act 
courageously without suppressing anyone else’s right to  
do the same. We stay open-minded, but there is a line,  
and we draw it at any kind of hate and violence. 

8

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

OUR CULTURE
At Dr. Martens, we value integrity, teamwork, 
professionalism and passion, but Rebellious Self 
Expression is how we define what’s unique about  
our culture and our brand.

Our people have the right to be themselves and 
express that self to the world. But in everything they 
do, they also need to think about how it impacts 
others and how they work together for the brand.

This is the Dr. Martens manifesto for how our people 
live and lead through Rebellious Self Expression.  
This is our culture.

BE YOURSELF:
We want our people to do what they are 
brilliant at. Being themselves is their 
superpower and it’s the value they bring  
to work every day. 

We value difference and diversity. While 
everyone’s moment of Rebellious Self 
Expression is different, all are equally  
valid and should be respected. 

ACT COURAGEOUSLY:
Be bold, not reckless, and make mistakes  
in the open. We want our people to try new 
things and let others see our successes  
and mistakes so we can all learn. We strive 
together for progress, not perfection. 

SHOW YOU CARE:
Success at DM’s impacts our consumers  
and shareholders as well as our people.  
They should think like an owner to advance 
the brand first and collaborate across 
functions and regions.

We want our people to have the courage  
to challenge themselves and others.  
This means being relentlessly curious to 
understand others and challenging decisions 
constructively to help make better ones. 
Every voice matters but once a decision is 
made, we all stand by it.

We can do anything, but we can’t do everything. 
We want our people to take responsibility for 
being both proactive and efficient: to adopt, 
adapt and invent in that order. 

Our people should put the consumer at the 
heart of their actions. DM’s are shaped by  
the people who wear them and our actions 
should always serve them first and foremost.

Be direct and be kind. Difficult conversations 
are sometimes needed. We think about our 
impact, we are open to other perspectives 
while giving direct, factual feedback that aims 
to build someone up, not tear them down. 

We live and love the brand, including on our 
feet. Everyone at DOCS has a DM’s story and 
they tell it every day through showing up to 
work in their Dr. Martens. We believe we stand 
taller, prouder and together in DM’s.

what we stand up for

We are committed to leaving things better than 
we found them. This is about being a business 
with integrity that takes its responsibilities 
seriously towards the planet, its people and its 
broader shareholders’.

Racial and ethnic equity
We stand up for equality for  
all and take action to improve 
representation and equity  
within our own organisation 

Rebellious Self Expression goes beyond integrity. 
Standing for it means standing against the 
barriers that impede it. We have looked to our 
brand’s history and to those who have adopted 
us to recognise where we have agency. Our 
values of #1 Be Yourself, #2 Act Courageously 
and #3 Show You Care set the guardrails for 
what we will actively stand up for. 

Sexual orientation equity
We’re committed to showing up 
and supporting the LGBTQIA+ 
community all year round

Gender equity
Creating a culture of support  
and allyship is the foundation  
for gender equity at Dr. Martens

Social mobility
Everyone should be able to achieve 
their full potential, regardless of 
where they come from

Sustainability
Leaving things better than we 
found them means working to 
reduce our impact on the planet

   READ MORE ON OUR 
SUSTAINABILITY P62

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

9

STRATEGIC REPORTInvestment case

OUR UNIQUE

PROPOSITION

We believe that our competitive strengths are what set us apart 
and position us to succeed in a rapidly changing world.

2

BRAND-FIRST DTC-LED STRATEGY
Our DOCS strategy is about selling more pairs of 
boots, shoes and sandals to more people, through 
our own direct-to-consumer (DTC) channel, in our 
seven priority markets (UK, US, France, Germany, 
Italy, Japan and China). While the strategy is  
made up of four key strands (D – DTC first, O – 
Organisational and Operational Excellence, C – 
Consumer Connection, S – Support Brand Expansion 
with B2B), it is the DTC first element that is our 
main strategic area, focusing on building brand 
equity and driving margin expansion. In the long 
term, we intend to operate a fully-functioning 
omnichannel stretching across both our ecommerce 
platforms and our growing retail presence. 
Implementing an order management system (OMS) 
in EMEA has facilitated a trial of both ‘return to 
store’ and ‘click and collect’ in the UK with a plan  
to roll out across EMEA in FY24. We will then trial  
a customer data platform (CDP) which will allow  
us to unlock the power of customer data within our 
DTC channel. We have a DTC milestone of 60% of 
global revenue and we currently have 204 retail 
stores. Our stores are ‘profitable brand beacons’, 
where we create exciting shopping experiences 
while delivering an attractive return on investment.

52%DTC mix

  READ MORE P32

NAPLES

1

3

ICONIC, GLOBAL BRAND
Dr. Martens is a truly iconic British brand with over  
60 years of heritage. Our timeless boots are cultural 
icons, offering enduring appeal, durability and cult 
status. It is an opinion former not a follower. The 
brand has become a global icon with millions of 
consumers worldwide. Its spirit of rebelliousness  
and resilience is embraced across all cultures, ages, 
genders and social classes, who adapt Dr. Martens 
boots, shoes and sandals in their own individual style. 
The unique DNA of the 1460 boot with its trademark 
yellow welt stitch, black and yellow heel loop and 
grooved sole is preserved across the whole Originals 
range, sitting at the core of our product strategy.

72%brand awareness

  READ MORE P36

SIGNIFICANT MARKET OPPORTUNITY
We are global brand with a focus on seven priority 
markets – UK, US, Japan, Germany, Italy, France  
and China – with a combined 86% share of revenue. 
The UK is our home market with DM’s being sold 
here since 1960, yet it continues to grow with 
revenue up 10% in FY23 and pairs per capita (PPC) 
at 32. There is significant headroom to grow PPC in 
other priority markets, with the US currently at 18, 
Germany 15, Italy eight, France seven, Japan four 
and China less than one. All of these markets now 
have a DTC first strategy in place. We believe it is 
the long-term improvement in PPC in these markets 
that will take us to our ambition to be a £2bn global 
footwear brand. 

86%of revenues from priority markets

  READ MORE P18

10

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

4

6

APPEALING TO A BROAD CONSUMER BASE
Dr. Martens appeals to a broad consumer base while 
retaining a distinctive identity. While our marketing 
strategy is influenced by alternative consumers who 
have their own individual style with a proud sense 
of ‘self-expression’ at the core, the brand resonates 
with, and is worn by, a much broader audience of 
wearers, such as those that value our quality, 
durability and heritage, and those that are focused 
on being stylish. This is reflected in the balanced 
demographic mix of consumers across all metrics, 
including gender, age, income level and geography.

 45%/55%

male/female split

  READ MORE P36

CUSTODIAN CULTURE
Led by the Board and the Global Leadership Team, 
the Dr. Martens culture has ‘custodianship’ at its 
core. We understand we are a part of the brand’s 
history and that our primary role as custodians is 
to ensure we protect the legacy of a cultural brand 
icon through long-term decision-making and an 
overarching desire to ‘do the right thing’. We are 
taking care of the brand now, for the benefit of the 
next generation. 

  READ MORE P8

5

ROBUST FINANCIALS
Since FY20, revenue has grown 14% per year  
on average. Gross margins are attractive based  
upon our high full price revenue mix and our high 
continuity product share. Normalised cash flow  
is strong with a target operating cash conversion  
of 70%, from which we aim to pay a dividend of 
between 25% and 35% of earnings each year.  
Our Balance Sheet is strong with net debt to  
EBITDA around 1x.

14%average annual revenue growth  

since FY20

  READ MORE P40

7

LEAVING THINGS BETTER
Dr. Martens products have embodied timeless 
design and durability for over six decades. As we 
continue our journey, we are committed to standing 
by our belief in leaving things better than we found 
them. Our sustainability efforts are focused on 
identifying and acting on the opportunities to add 
value. We are making the changes that are needed 
today, while also investing in the future of our 
business and industry. Read more about our ‘Planet, 
Product, People’ sustainability strategy on pages 68 
to 95, our TCFD disclosures on pages 99 to 107 and 
visit drmartensplc.com for more information.

  READ MORE P62

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

11

STRATEGIC REPORTCEO’s statement

REFLECTIONS ON THE

PAST YEAR

Reaching the revenue 
milestone of £1bn this year,  
with growth of 10% (4% CC), 
is an achievement everyone 
at Dr. Martens can be proud 
of. As well as the passion and 
hard work of our people, it  
is testament to the strength 
of our iconic brand and the 
success of our DOCS strategy. 

Brand equity is strong. All our brand 
indicators confirm that the slower pace  
of growth this year is not a reflection of 
weakening brand momentum, but rather  
a combination of execution and macro 
factors. Our most recent brand surveys 
report metrics ahead of, or in line with, last 
year; our growing DTC mix (up 3%pts to 
52%) gives us more brand control as we 
reach more consumers directly; and our 
EMEA DTC performance in the year, with 
growth of 20%, shows what we can achieve 
when we execute our DOCS strategy well. 

EMEA saw strong performances across its 
conversion markets and a very good year 
in the UK, our home market. We’ve also 
seen good momentum in Japan, where we 
transferred 14 franchise stores successfully 
to owned and operated towards the year 
end. Following these transfers, Japan will 
have a c.80% DTC mix. 

Across our product categories, we saw 
good growth in shoes and sandals across 
all regions, although boots were down  
in the year. There were successes within 
our ongoing infrastructure investments, 
including the launch of an omnichannel trial 
in the UK, an important step in our journey 
to a seamless omnichannel capability.  
In sustainability, we made further good 
progress including the launch of a repair 
and resale trial on Depop in the UK and an 
investment in recycled leather company 
Gen Phoenix to support our sustainable 
materials strategy.

WE ACHIEVED ANNUAL REVENUE  
OF £1BN FOR THE FIRST TIME. 
REACHING THIS MILESTONE IS 
TESTAMENT TO THE STRENGTH OF 
OUR BRAND, OUR LONG-STANDING 
DOCS STRATEGY AND THE HARD 
WORK AND DEDICATION OF OUR 
FANTASTIC PEOPLE GLOBALLY.

KENNY WILSON  
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

12

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

£1BN

revenue

10% 

revenue growth

52% 

DTC mix

However, we were held back in the year  
by the performance of our America 
region. The weather worked against us at 
times and the US consumer backdrop was 
challenging but as the year progressed, 
we concluded that the biggest driver of 
our weak performance in America was 
poor operational execution.

The move of our main west coast DC from 
Portland to LA was poorly implemented. 
We also made mistakes executing our 
marketing campaigns which were too 
focused on shoes and sandals, which grew 
well, but not focused enough on boots. 
This led to boots revenue declining in 
America and holding back overall boots 
sales for the Group. In addition, our 
ecommerce execution wasn’t strong 
enough. This weaker than planned 
performance in America meant that at 
Group level the price increases we put 
through didn’t offset fully cost inflation. 

Finally, in hindsight, we ordered too much 
inventory for America given the tough 
environment and our poor execution. 
However, the inventory in America is 
predominantly best-selling, continuity, 
black boots and shoes so, while it will take 
until H2 to right-size inventory levels, 
there is minimal markdown risk. 

Following the appointment of our new 
America President in FY22, we identified 
a need to strengthen the leadership team 
in America and the FY23 performance 
reinforced this conclusion. We have made 
new hires to lead digital, marketing and 
HR, and we are currently recruiting a new 
Head of Operations. This stronger team 
will support the America President in 
turning around performance. Getting 
America back into growth is our number 
one business priority and we have 
confidence in our plans to correct and 
revitalise the marketing programme, and 
to improve our technology implementation 
and website trading, with improvements 
expected from H2 FY24. 

The LA DC issues and reaching the  
£1bn revenue milestone have also led  
us to re-evaluate the investment in 
capability and infrastructure across  
the company that is required to de-risk 
future growth. Dr. Martens has been  
on a professionalisation journey with  
an ‘invest to grow’ mindset for a number  
of years. In FY24, we will increase 
investment in specific areas, namely 
global product and marketing teams, 
ecommerce development, supply chain 
capability (both people and IT systems) 
and wider talent within the business.  

The opex elements of these investments 
will total c.£20m in FY24 and will be made 
alongside our ongoing brand marketing 
investment and new store investment. 
While there will be further incremental 
investment in FY25, it will be materially 
less than FY24.

While these investments mean margins in 
FY24 will be held back, I am confident this 
further professionalisation of the business 
is the right response to the issues of FY23 
and that it will be the catalyst for future 
growth towards the next milestone of 
becoming a £2bn global footwear brand. 

 PERFORMANCE SUMMARY 
We delivered a resilient revenue 
performance in the year, reaching the 
revenue milestone of £1bn for the first time. 
At £1,000.3m, revenue grew 10%, or 4% CC 
with DTC mix up 3%pts to 52%. We sold 
13.8m pairs in the year, down 2% on the 
previous year with a good performance in 
EMEA and Japan, but a weaker result in 
America. Without the impact of planned, 
strategic volume reductions to distributors, 
pairs sold were up 2%. 

THE DOCS STRATEGY 

The framework within which we will make these investments to strengthen our resilience and underpin future growth is our 
long-standing DOCS strategy, which consists of four main pillars:

Our strategy has four pillars, ‘DOCS’, which are:

DTC FIRST
Through increasing the 
number of own stores and 
growing ecommerce we aim 
to build brand equity and 
drive margin expansion. We 
are also working on building 
a profitable resale, repair and 
end of life business model.

ORGANISATIONAL AND 
OPERATIONAL EXCELLENCE
Investing in and improving our 
organisation, operations and IT to 
enable growth and unlock value. 

CONSUMER CONNECTION
We are focused on acquiring new 
consumers and driving loyalty. 
Our marketing initiatives, product 
innovation and sustainability 
work sit within this pillar.

SUPPORT BRAND 
EXPANSION WITH B2B 
This focuses on our B2B 
business, which is made up of 
wholesale and distributors. We 
will continue to partner with 
fewer and better B2B partners 
to reach more consumers and 
grow the brand further. Our 
conversion market strategy is 
also included within this pillar.

  OUR STRATEGY P30 and 31

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

13

STRATEGIC REPORTCEO’s statement continued

Channel performance
DTC revenue was £520.7m, up 16% and 
11% CC.

This was led by a very strong performance 
from retail which grew 30%, 25% CC, to 
£241.7m. Retail growth was driven by our 
accelerated store opening programme, the 
ongoing post-pandemic return to physical 
shopping and a 5% price increase on 
average. We opened 52 new own stores in 
the year, including 14 franchise transfers 
in Japan, offset by three closures and 
three location upgrades. We expect to 
achieve the full financial benefit from 
these new stores through FY24. 

We also grew ecommerce with an 
accelerating growth trend seen through 
Q4. Ecommerce revenue was £279.0m,  
up 6% or 1% CC. Revenue grew well in 
EMEA but was behind the previous year in 
CC in America, due to a tough consumer 
environment and execution mistakes.  
In APAC, Japan growth was offset by 
weakness elsewhere, mainly in China, 
where we had zero revenue in Q1 due  
to Covid-19 lockdowns. 

Our wholesale channel achieved revenue 
of £479.6m, up 4% but down 3% CC. In 
CC, wholesale revenue was up in EMEA 
but down in America and APAC, with the 
latter impacted by the planned ending of 
sales to our China distributor, as we move 
to full DOCS strategy implementation. The 
number of wholesale accounts globally 
was reduced by 5%. To protect our brand 
equity further in EMEA, as previously 
disclosed we will reduce supply to etailers 
by 4%pts of group revenue, equivalent  
to around 0.5m pairs, in FY24.

Regional performance
EMEA 
Performance in EMEA was reflective of  
a well-executed DOCS strategy. Revenue 
grew 11%, 10% CC, to £443.0m. Both DTC 
and wholesale grew with retail particularly 
strong and all channels accelerating in Q4. 
DTC growth was 20%, 19% CC, with retail 
up 36%, 34% CC, and ecommerce up 7%, 
8% CC. Wholesale revenue grew 3% or 
flat CC. The UK, our home market, grew 
revenue 12%. Revenue and DTC mix grew 
in all our other key EMEA markets and 
DTC mix was up 5%pts in France, 8%pts 
in Germany, 11%pts in Italy and 24%pts  
in Spain. We opened 13 new stores. 

America
It was a disappointing year in America. 
Revenue was £428.2m, up 12% but down 
1% CC. As described above, against a 
challenging consumer backdrop, we made 
execution mistakes in marketing and 
ecommerce, and we were impacted by the 
LA DC operational issues, which affected 
Q4 wholesale shipments. DTC growth was 
15%, or 2% CC. We opened 14 new stores. 
Wholesale was up 9% but down 4% CC. 

APAC
Revenue was £129.1m, up 2% but down  
1% CC. DTC performed well with revenue 
growth of 9%, also 9% CC. We have good 
momentum going into FY24 with Q4 
strong at 35% growth (34% CC). In the 
year, retail grew 18%, 19% CC while 
ecommerce was down 1%, also down 1% 
CC. Wholesale was down 7%, 12% CC, 
with distributor revenues down 9%, or 
down 19% CC, due partly to our ending of 
shipments to our China distributor ahead 
of the agreement end in June 2023. 

Japan, our largest APAC market, traded 
well in FY23 and has a stronger platform 
for future growth following the successful 
transfer of 14 franchise stores to own 
retail during Q4. At the year end, DTC mix 
in Japan was 64%, up 6%pts, and on a 
pro-forma basis, DTC mix is c.80%. Other 
than the franchise transfers, we opened 
four new stores in Japan and a further 
seven elsewhere in the region. 

Company performance
Gross profit was up 7% to £618.1m but 
margin declined 1.9%pts to 61.8%, due 
mainly to container costs at the LA DC 
and exchange rates. Operating expenses 
were up 18% to £373.1m. This was driven 
by our planned, long-term growth 
investment in new stores and marketing, 
but also warehouse and labour costs at 
the LA DC. 

EBITDA was £245.0m, down 7% on the 
previous year and the EBITDA margin  
was 24.5%, down 4.5%pts, of which the 
LA DC impact was 1.5%pts. 

Profit before tax was £159.4m, down 26%, 
impacted by lower EBITDA, increased 
depreciation from system investments, 
new stores and DC expansion, a £3.9m 
impairment charge and a £10.7m charge 
(against a benefit in FY22) from the FX 
translation impact on our Euro bank debt. 
Profit after tax was £128.9m, down 29% 
while basic EPS was also down 29% to 12.9p. 

The Board retains its conviction in the 
future performance and cash generation 
of the business, and therefore it has 
proposed a maintained final dividend per 
share of 4.28p versus the previous year. 
This would take the full year dividend to 
5.84p per share, up 6% and an earnings 
payout ratio of 45%. Going forward, we 
expect profit growth to return the payout 
ratio back to 35% over time. In addition, 
the Board will seek shareholder approval 
at the AGM to commence an initial share 
buyback programme of £50m.

14

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 BRAND AND MARKETING 
We measure our brand equity across a 
number of different measures on a 
quarterly basis with an extensive annual 
survey in October and three check-ins over 
the rest of the year. Last October, we 
surveyed over 37,000 respondents across 
14 markets. Each country’s sample is 
nationally representative on the basis  
of gender and age.

Our brand equity continues to be strong. 
Compared to the annual October survey in 
2021, Dr. Martens global brand ‘awareness’1 
held at 72%, while ‘familiarity’1 also held at 
47%. ‘Ever purchased’2 rose 1%pt to 18% 
while ‘last 24 month purchased’2 grew 
2%pts to 10%. Similarly, ‘unprompted 
awareness’3 either held steady or improved 
across boots, shoes and sandals. We 
remain no.1 ranked for boots and no.9 for 
shoes, while we’ve moved up from 16th to 
14th in sandals. Overall, brand sentiment4 
was up with all regions level or up on the 
previous year. 

Our smaller, quarterly brand ‘check-ins’ 
provide us with a snapshot directional 
view. Our Q1 2023 ‘check-in’ shows 
continued strong brand health. 

We will continue to increase marketing 
spend in order to reach more consumers 
in our core markets. In FY23, as a 
percentage of revenue, marketing spend 
grew 0.4%pts. We will also make 
additional investments in strengthening 
our brand teams in FY24. 

We ran a number of global marketing 
campaigns through the year with the 
highlights being the ‘All Access Summer’ 
campaign during Q1 and the ‘Unpolished’ 
campaign in September. 

•  ‘All Access Summer’ was aimed at getting 
people out and about and wearing DOCS 
in the first ‘proper’ summer since 2019. 
It was a product-led campaign, focused 
on growing both shoes and sandals. It 
highlighted newness in these categories 
and we activated the campaign at 
festivals and other key cultural moments 
over the summer. 

•  ‘Unpolished’ was the first of three 

campaigns for the AW22 season. This 
campaign was focused on the promotion 
of our original boots – it was launched 
on our own channels and through paid 
social and we used a new TikTok 
partnership around ‘#storiesmakeicons’ 
that was linked to live events through 
the campaign. 

We now have 10.6m followers across all 
social media channels, up 8% on the 
previous year. A significant majority engage 
with us through Facebook (4.9m) and 
Instagram (4.3m) while we have 0.5m 
followers on TikTok, with 3.4m likes to date. 

During the summer of 2022, we carried 
out a detailed pricing study across our 
seven priority markets, including consumer 
testing and validation of potential pricing 
changes to calculate perceived value for 
money and elasticity of demand. The 
pricing study showed that consumers 
believe our products represent compelling 
value for money given their durability and 
quality and that there is further headroom 
globally to raise prices. Therefore, we are 
raising prices by 6% on average to cover 
supply chain cost inflation in the AW23 
season. Increases will vary by region with a 
3% increase in EMEA, 6% in America and 
10% in APAC. These increases are within 
the headroom shown by the pricing study. 
Encouragingly, cost of goods inflation for 
the SS24 season, impacting FY25 mainly, 
is expected to be c.2%.

72%

Brand awareness

47%

Brand familiarity

18%

Ever purchased

We measure our brand equity  
on a quarterly basis. We run  
an extensive annual survey in 
October with 37,000 respondents 
across 14 countries.

10%

Last 24 months purchased

1.   ‘How familiar are you with the following brands of footwear?’
2.   ‘When was the most recent time you purchased footwear from the following brands?’
3.   ‘When you think of each of the following types of footwear, which three brands first come to mind?’
4.   ‘Overall, how do you feel about each of these brands?’

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

15

STRATEGIC REPORTCEO’s statement continued

 PRODUCT 
Our product strategy is to sell boots, 
shoes and sandals with originals at the 
core. Within that, we are focused on 
continuing to drive growth in our big 
three – the 1460 boot, the 1461 shoe and 
the Chelsea boot. 

Shoes and sandals revenue grew 51%  
and 54% respectively leading to a 
combined revenue share of c.30%.  
There is a significant and long-term 
growth opportunity in shoes and sandals 
and we continued to develop and improve 
our ranges as we grow our presence  
in this category. 

At Group level, boots revenue declined 
10%.In America, this was due to the LA 
DC issues and mistakes in our marketing 
approach, which have been corrected  
for H2 FY24. In EMEA, boots were up in 
DTC but down in wholesale, as expected, 
due mainly to the impact from broader 
product ranges in conversion markets.  
In APAC, the ending of shipments to our 
China distributor was the main driver  
of lower boots revenue.

We have been building out the brand’s 
dimensions in terms of occasions, such as 
the Winterised range this winter, and the 
look and feel of our products, such as the 
growth in softer leathers and the broader 
range of colours used. We are excited 
about the pipeline of product innovation 
which should benefit from SS24 and 
AW24 seasons. 

Collaborations and our AMP accounts are 
small in terms of sales mix, but they are 
important for ‘brand heat’ as they add 
freshness and excitement to our product 
strategy. We continue to work with some of 
the best design and AMP partners on both 
a regional and global basis. Successful 
collaborations in the year, promoted and 
sold in AMP accounts such as End Clothing 
in the UK and Kith in the US, included a 
Penton Loafer with Supreme, the Korean 
partner BT21 across our big three and 
platform boots with Rick Owens.

 SUPPLY CHAIN AND IT 
At the year end, we were manufacturing  
in seven countries, including the UK. 
Shipping times returned to normal by the 
year and we opened three new DCs in the 
year in the UK, the Netherlands and in LA. 

We completed a successful implementation 
of our global ERP platform in Japan with 
c.95% of global revenue now on this single 
platform. Within EMEA, we implemented 
an order management system, which 
meant we could start testing ‘click and 

collect’ and ‘return to store’ in the UK  
in Q4. This is an important step on our 
journey towards a seamless omnichannel 
capability. Through FY24, and as part  
of our global systems transformation 
programme, we plan to launch a new 
product line management system that  
will drive the journey from ‘idea to 
manufacture’, and a new supply and 
demand planning system, while also 
starting the development of a customer 
data platform. 

 LA DC 

While both the new UK and 
Netherlands DCs opened successfully, 
in LA, a series of people and process 
failures led to a bottleneck at the DC, 
leading to missed wholesale 
shipments and incurred costs. There 
were three main issues:-

1.  Inventory was transferred from  

our Portland DC to LA faster than 
was planned originally

2. We accepted requests from some 
US wholesalers to store direct 
shipments at the LA DC

3. Inbound shipping times into LA 
improved significantly resulting  
in inventory arriving quicker  
than anticipated 

In terms of resolving the bottleneck 
and creating a stronger distribution 
platform for the future in America,  
we instigated a number of actions:-

1.  We sent our most experienced 

supply chain team to LA to take 
control of operations and 
implement a recovery plan

2. We opened three temporary 

warehouses to release excess 
shipping containers and store  
stock away from the LA DC

3. A third shift was added to focus on 
the additional work required to 
unblock the bottleneck and transfer 
excess stock to the warehouses

4. Work commenced on enlarging  

and reconfiguring our New Jersey 
DC on the US east coast, so it can 
store, pick and pack all product 
ranges for both DTC and wholesale 
channels in America

The recovery plans were implemented 
successfully and operationally, all 
issues have been fixed. Shipments 
returned to normal rates before the 
year end and wholesale pick and pack 
was tested successfully at the New 
Jersey DC in March.

We completed a detailed internal 
review which has led to a series of 
planned changes to our ways of 
working in America and across the 
company as a whole, including clearer 
lines of responsibility and control. 

As announced at our Q4 update, 
costs associated with this LA DC issue 
were £15m in FY23 and are expected 
to be another £15m in FY24, mainly 
as a result of keeping temporary 
warehousing in LA for longer than 
anticipated originally. 

This situation, combined with softer 
demand in America, means we didn’t 
see the usual H2 reduction in 
inventory this year. We expect 
inventory to remain high in H1 FY24 
ahead of the peak season and then 
for inventory to fall in H2 as we 
purchase less than we plan to sell. 

16

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 SUSTAINABILITY – PLANET, PRODUCT, PEOPLE 
We have made timeless, durable products for more than six decades and, in June 2022, we launched our 
new sustainability strategy – Planet, Product, People – which sets out our long-term vision to leave things 
better than we found them. This includes our long-term ambitions to reach Net-Zero, for all our footwear to 
be made from sustainable materials, our natural materials to be from regenerative sources and for all our 
products to have a sustainable end-of-life option. It also captures our DE&I strategy and continuing support 
for The Dr. Martens Foundation as a champion of social justice.

Good progress has been made in FY23:

Planet
With the support of the Carbon Trust, 
we submitted our Science-Based 
Targets to the Science-Based Targets 
Initiative for verification in December 
2022, which set out our plan to 
become a Net-Zero business by 2040. 
We also continued to focus on 
transitioning our operations to 
renewables – 91% of our UK and 
European electricity supply now  
comes from renewable sources.

  SUSTAINABILITY P62

Product 
In March 2023, we announced an 
investment in, and partnership with, Gen 
Phoenix, a leading producer of recycled 
leather at scale. During FY24, we plan to 
launch product containing its recycled 
leather material. We also launched our 
first ‘recommerce’ business model pilot  
in the UK. After being restored by our 
partner, The Boot Repair Company, the 
second-hand DM’s are resold via our 
online Depop store, which is one of the 
most popular Depop shops globally. 
Following this success, we plan to launch 
‘recommerce’ in America during FY24. 

People 
During the year, we made additional 
cost-of-living payments to all 
employees in the UK, Europe, the US, 
South Korea and Bangladesh, up to  
a defined earnings threshold in 
recognition of acute rises in living 
costs in these countries. In addition, 
we established a Hardship Fund, open 
to all employees, to help those who 
need financial help, irrespective of 
location or earnings. As part of our 
responsible supply chain management, 
we carried out third party audits of the 
factories in our supply chain and 100% 
of our suppliers across both Tier 1 and 
Tier 2 met our high standards. Our 
employees also nominated causes to 
receive funding from the Dr. Martens 
Foundation with donations totalling 
£2.4m during the year. 

KENNY WILSON 
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER  
31 May 2023

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

17

STRATEGIC REPORTMarket review

MARKET TRENDS AND

OPPORTUNITIES

MACROECONOMIC TRENDS 

Trend
The macroeconomic environment in FY23 
was a challenging one. Alongside Covid-19 
still having an impact, there was increased 
geopolitical uncertainty led by the Russia/
Ukraine war, abnormally high cost inflation 
across EMEA and America, rising interest 
rates and softer consumer spending.  
The war contributed to heightened global 
inflation through 2022 and into 2023, 
driving up both energy and food prices.  
To combat inflation, central banks have 
been increasing interest rates to levels not 
seen since the global financial crisis, which 
leads to less business investment and 
consumer spending.

Looking forward, inflation is believed to 
have peaked but remains stubbornly high 
in some of our core markets such as the 
US, the UK, Germany, France and Italy. 

This will delay potential future interest rate 
cuts, thereby delaying material improvements 
in consumer spending and so making the 
consumer environment in FY24 as challenging 
as FY23. Geopolitical uncertainty will also 
remain as the Russia/Ukraine war continues 
and the recent banking crisis reminds us of 
the fragility of the global financial system.

Key takeaways
•  Challenging consumer environment  

to continue into FY24

•  Cost inflation of 6% in FY23 with 

continued inflationary environment 
into FY24

•  Average price increase to broadly 

cover cost inflation again

Inflation has impacted on our business.  
Cost of goods sold (COGS) inflation for the 
year was around 6% and, due to agreeing 
forward fixed price contracts with our factory 
partners, we have good visibility of future 
inflation. Our pricing strategy is to offset  
cost inflation through price increases without 
impacting materially on volume growth.  
Our detailed, annual pricing survey helps to 
determine the level of price inflation we can 
achieve. In both the 2021 and 2022 price 
surveys, consumers placed a higher value on 
our core products in our priority markets than 
the price increases we planned to implement. 

6-9
MONTHS

we agree fixed-price contracts 
with factories 6-9 months prior 
to a season

A GROWING MARKET 

Trend
We compete in the large and growing 
global footwear market. It is estimated to 
have achieved global revenues of $382bn 
in 2022, according to Statista, with an 
average annual growth of 4% expected up 
to 2028. This would take the total market 
size to $473bn, an increase of $91bn or 
24%. The majority of Dr. Martens products 
are leather and in 2022, leather footwear 
was 33% of the global market, or $125bn. 
This ranked it the second largest category 
behind ‘textile/other’ and ahead of 
‘sneakers’ and ‘athletic’ footwear 
categories. The leather footwear category 
is expected to achieve average annual 
growth of 3% to 2028, adding $21bn to 
the size of this category.

We sell boots, shoes and sandals to a consumer 
base that displays strong similarity across all 
of our priority markets. Overall, the combined 
value of our DTC sales and sales from our B2B 
partners to their customers represents less 
than 1% of the global footwear market. 

Key takeaways
•  Large and growing global footwear market
•  Opportunity to over-index growth from  
a small base by taking market share
•  Significant opportunity to improve 

awareness and grow share in shoes  
and sandals

While boots remains our biggest category  
by sales, both the global shoes and sandals 
categories are larger and represent a 
significant long-term growth opportunity  
for Dr. Martens. Our awareness is much lower 
in these categories, highlighting further the 
opportunity for growth. In our FY23 global 
brand survey, we again ranked 1st globally  
in terms of unprompted awareness for boots. 
For shoes we remained number 9 ranked while 
we moved up from 16th to 14th in sandals.

4%

forecast CAGR of global footwear 
market revenues by 2028

18

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

OPPORTUNITIES

Key takeaways
•  Significant societal shifts including gender 

fluidity and dress code casualisation
•  Product timelessness creates important 

versatility

•  Investing in sustainable alternative 

materials and recommerce

SOCIETAL TRENDS 

Trend
Expressions of identity of today’s consumers 
are more fluid than ever. Dr. Martens 
products continue to provide a blank canvas 
through which consumers can express 
themselves. We pride ourselves in being a 
democratic brand, empowering consumers 
as they go out into the world and express 
themselves. In recent years, there have been 
significant societal shifts including gender 
fluidity and the casualisation of dress codes 
with our products and brand well positioned 
against this backdrop. Our products are 
predominantly unisex and therefore inclusive 
to all gender identities. Furthermore, our 
timeless products are worn by all age groups 
and for both casual and formal occasions, 
making them extremely versatile.

Sustainability is also an increasingly 
important factor when consumers make 
purchasing decisions. Last year, we launched 
our new ‘Planet, Product, People’ 
sustainability strategy which supports our 
vision to leave things better than we found 
them. Over the past year, we have continued 
to collaborate and innovate with leaders 
across our industry to deliver a successful 
launch of our repair and resale ‘recommerce’ 
trial in the UK, which is a key step on our 
journey to Net-Zero. We are also investing in 
the future of our business and supporting the 
development of scalable sustainable materials 
through our investment in Gen Phoenix, a 
leading producer of recycled leather.

66%

of consumers agree our brand is 
inclusive and promotes diversity 

RE-ENGAGEMENT WITH PHYSICAL SHOPPING 

Trend
As the year progressed, Covid-19 
restrictions eased further across our 
priority markets with western markets 
much further ahead than Asia. As 
restrictions eased, consumers returned 
increasingly to physical shopping, not just 
as an opportunity to engage with the 
brand but to purchase in retail stores as 
well. This re-engagement with physical 
shopping has coincided with the continued 
expansion of our own stores, as part of our 
DTC first strategy. Having begun the year 
with 158 stores, we opened a further 52 
new stores, including the transfer of 14 
franchise stores in Japan, and closed six. 
This took our total retail stores to 204  
at the year end. We now have stores in  
13 countries and 84% of our stores are  
in our seven priority markets. 

We describe our stores, located in key cities 
across our largest markets, as ‘profitable 
brand beacons’. This means we use them to 
showcase our brand and our product range, 
and allow our talented store teams to engage 
with consumers and bring the brand to life, 
while generating an attractive return on our 
investment in opening a store. On average, 
our stores payback in two years. In addition, 
we see our stores as driving incremental 
ecommerce sales in the vicinity of a store, 
demonstrating the important interplay 
between online and physical retail, as part  
of our developing DTC omnichannel.

In FY23, retail revenue grew by 30%, or 25% 
in constant currency, taking retail share of 
Group sales to 24%. We expect to roll out our 
retail stores further over the next few years 
as we open first stores in new cities and 
additional stores in larger existing cities in 
priority markets.

Key takeaways
•  Consumers returning to  

physical shopping

•  Growing retail store estate  

taking advantage

•  Retail revenue grew 30% in FY23

30%

retail revenue growth  
in FY23

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

19

STRATEGIC REPORTOur business model

HOW WE CREATE

VALUE

Doing the right thing for the long term is at the heart of our 
custodian mindset at Dr. Martens. This means focussing on 
creating long-term, sustainable value for our stakeholders.

CORE COMMERCIAL ACTIVITIES

GLOBAL REVENUE CHANNELS

E A V E   T HINGS BETTER

L

DESIGNING
Based on our deeply-entrenched 
and unique Originals DNA, our 
product designers operate at the 
forefront of trends, designing 
ranges for sale up to two years 
into the future

SELLING
We segment our selling 
by both channel – 
Ecommerce, Retail and 
Wholesale – and by 
region – EMEA, America 
and APAC

HIG H L Y   E N G AGED AUDIE

N

C

E

PROTECTING
The intellectual 
property of our core 
DNA is protected by 
our passionate and 
highly talented IP team

MARKETING
Our global, regional and 
local marketing campaigns 
are targeted increasingly 
at our core customer 
segments and can reach 
across all channels

HIGHLY MOTIVAT E D   P

E

O PLE
MANUFACTURING
During FY23, we manufactured our 
products in nine countries with the 
majority manufactured in Vietnam 
and our Made In England range and 
most collaborations made in our  
Cobb’s Lane factory  
in Wollaston, England

THAN WE FOUND T H E M

OUR FOUNDATIONS:

48%

52%

  Direct-to-consumer
  Wholesale

DIRECT-TO-CONSUMER

Ecommerce
Our single most important store  
is our own .com websites, which 
cover the majority of our markets. 
In FY23, ecommerce generated 
28% of revenue.

Retail
We operate 204 own stores 
globally and they provide the 
opportunity to showcase our 
brand and products in the best 
possible physical environment.

WHOLESALE
This encompasses wholesale 
partner relationships, together 
with country distributor models 
and franchised stores, giving the 
brand extra reach and awareness.

 PEOPLE 

 BRAND 

 CONSUMERS 

Our 2,591 passionate, dedicated  
and professional people are  
the core building block of our  
long-term success

Our iconic, global brand is  
the equity that drives sustainable, 
long-term growth

We are proud to play a role in  
our consumers’ moments of 
Rebellious Self Expression

20

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

What we do
Dr. Martens is an iconic, global footwear 
brand. We make boots, shoes and sandals 
which we sell through our DTC channel 
via our ecommerce platforms and our 
stores, and through our business-to-
business channel via both wholesalers 
and distributors. 

We do business in three regions – EMEA, 
America and APAC – and have seven 
priority markets – US, UK, Germany, Italy, 
France, Japan and China. Our biggest 
selling products remain our ‘Originals’ 
including the 1460 boot, the 1461 shoe 
and the 2976 Chelsea boot.

  READ MORE P6

GLOBAL REVENUE CHANNELS

WHO WE CREATE VALUE FOR

CREATING VALUE THROUGH 
INVESTMENT

52

new stores opened in FY23 including 
14 franchise transfers in Japan

REGIONAL TEAMS

EMEA
Headquartered in Camden, London, and 
with offices in Milan, Barcelona, Paris and 
Düsseldorf. Our core EMEA markets are 
the UK, Germany, France and Italy.

America
Headquartered in Portland, Oregon, with 
offices in New York and Los Angeles,  
our America business runs our directly 
operated USA market and wholesale 
relationship in Canada.

APAC
Headquartered in Hong Kong with significant 
regional offices in Tokyo, Shanghai and 
Seoul. Japan, China and South Korea are 
directly operated, and there are a number  
of distributors for other key countries with 
Australia being the largest.

OWNERS

OUR PEOPLE 

Long-term business success 
driving share price appreciation 
and a progressive dividend

Ongoing training and development 
within a supportive and inclusive 
working environment

CONSUMERS 

PARTNERS 

Being able to buy a timeless, 
durable product for a fair price

Working with an iconic, global 
brand that resonates strongly 
with their consumers

SUPPLIERS

ENVIRONMENT & COMMUNITIES

Association with a strong,  
responsible brand that  
can generate long-term  
demand growth

Reducing our environmental 
impact and leaving things  
better than we found them

 PARTNERS 

 SUPPLIERS 

 FINANCIAL 

Our strong wholesale partner 
relationships provide support to our 
DTC expansion plans

Our long-term supplier relationships 
ensure consistently high product 
quality around the globe

Strong margins, high cash  
conversion and a robust Balance 
Sheet support continued investment 
in long-term growth

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

21

STRATEGIC REPORTStakeholder engagement and Section 172 Statement

MEETING THE NEEDS OF OUR

STAKEHOLDERS

THE BOARD TAKES 
DECISIONS IT BELIEVES 
WILL MOST LIKELY PROVIDE 
RESULTS THAT DELIVER 
OUR STRATEGY IN THE 
INTERESTS OF ALL 
STAKEHOLDERS. 

PAUL MASON  
CHAIR

The following pages identify each of our 
stakeholder groups and explain their 
interests, how the Board and wider 
business engages with them, some key 
associated metrics, the outcomes of that 
engagement and how it influences the 
Board’s decision-making processes. 
Further information regarding how the 
principles underpinning Section 172 are 
reflected across the wider business are 
incorporated by cross-reference and in  
the table to the right.

OUR KEY STAKEHOLDER GROUPS

The chart to the right identifies our six 
key stakeholder groups and highlights a 
number of metrics that indicate how their 
interests were served during FY23. 
Examples of how the interests of these 
stakeholders were considered and shaped 
key decisions taken during the year, 
specifically the provision of cost-of-living 
support to employees and our investment 
in sustainable leather, can be found on 
the page opposite.

S.172 PRINCIPLE
The likely consequences of any 
decision in the long term

LOCATION OF MORE INFORMATION
•  Chair’s statement (pages 4 and 5)
•  CEO’s statement (pages 12 to 17)
•  Our business model (pages 20 and 21)
•  Our strategy (pages 30 and 31)
•  Key performance indicators (pages 40 to 43)
•  Effective risk management (pages 54 to 59)
•  Board activities (pages 118 and 119)
•  Viability assessment and going concern (pages 60 and 61)

The interests of the Company’s 
employees

•  Stakeholder engagement: Our People (page 25)
•  Sustainability report: People (pages 84 to 91)
•  Nomination Committee report (pages 130 to 135)
•  Whistleblowing (page 158)
•  Remuneration Committee report (pages 136 to 138)

The need to foster business 
relationships with suppliers, 
customers and others

The impact of the Company’s 
operations on the community  
and the environment

•  Our business model (pages 20 and 21)
•  Our strategy (pages 30 and 31)
•  Our strategy in action (pages 32 to 39)
•  Sustainability report (pages 62 to 98)
•  Anti-bribery and corruption (page 158)

•  Stakeholder engagement: Environment  

and Communities (page 29)

•  Sustainability report (pages 62 to 98)
•  TCFD (pages 99 to 107)

The desirability of the Company 
maintaining a reputation for high 
standards of business conduct

•  Effective risk management (pages 54 to 59)
•  Division of responsibilities (pages 120 and 121)
•  Audit and Risk Committee report (pages 151 to 158)
•  Directors’ report (pages 159 to 163)

The need to act fairly as between 
members of the Company

•  Stakeholder engagement: Owners (page 24)
•  Relationship with largest shareholder (page 162)
•  Annual General Meeting (page 162)

ENVIRONMENT & 
COMMUNITIES

£2.4m

employees nominated charities 
to receive £2.4m from the 
Dr. Martens Foundation

OWNERS

£58.4m 

total FY23  
dividend payout

SUPPLIERS

5 

supplier conferences 
with Tier 1 suppliers 
held in FY23

OUR PEOPLE

87% 

response rate to our 
Engagement and 
Inclusion Survey

PARTNERS

1.9k 

wholesale customers 
in FY23

CONSUMERS

#1

Dr. Martens ranked 
number 1 for unprompted 
brand awareness in 
our Brand Survey 
in Boots

22

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

STAKEHOLDERS

 SECTION 172 STATEMENT 

A key responsibility of all directors of UK 
companies under the Companies Act 
2006 (the Act) is their duty to promote 
the success of the company. Specifically, 
the Act requires that each of the 
Directors of Dr. Martens plc must act in a 
way that they consider, in good faith, is 
most likely to promote the success of the 
Company for the benefit of its members 
as a whole, and in doing so have regard 
(among other matters) to:

Maintaining a long-term,  
custodian mindset
‘the likely consequences of any  
decision in the long term’

and

‘the desirability of the Company 
maintaining a reputation for high 
standards of business conduct’

Our People (page 25)
‘the interests of the Company’s 
employees’

Consumers, Partners and Suppliers 
(pages 26, 27 and 28)
‘the need to foster the Company’s 
business relationships with suppliers, 
customers and others’

Environment and Communities  
(page 29)
‘the impact of the Company’s operations 
on the community and the environment’

Owners (page 24)
‘the need to act fairly as between 
members of the Company’

The Board recognises that maintaining 
strong relationships and healthy 
dialogue with the Group’s stakeholders 
remains critical to our objective of 
delivering sustainable growth over the 
longer term. The needs of our 
stakeholders are closely considered by 
the Board when discussing matters of 
strategic significance. The Board also 
pays due regard to the potential impact 
on stakeholders of any proposals tabled 
for its approval. Furthermore, the Board 
has sought to establish a wider business 
culture that ensures the interests of 
stakeholders are at the heart of 
decision-making below Board level.

The Board therefore confirms that, 
throughout the year under review, it 
acted, and continues to act, to promote 
the long-term success of the Company 
for the benefit of shareholders, while 
having due regard to the matters set 
out in Section 172(1)(a) to (f) of the Act. 

While the Board will always pursue 
outcomes that benefit all stakeholder 
groups where possible, it is mindful that 
achieving this is not always possible. 
Stakeholder priorities are wide-ranging 
and do, at times, compete and conflict. 
The Board therefore seeks to take 
decisions that it believes are most likely 
to provide results that deliver our 
strategy, thereby serving the interests 
of all stakeholders over the longer term. 
How stakeholders were considered in 
certain key decisions taken by the 
Board during the year can be found in 
‘Board activities’ from page 118 of the 
Governance report.

The general principles set out in Section 
172 are also intrinsic to how the 
Company operates below Board level 
and are firmly embedded within our 
culture. The interests of our 
stakeholders and the ways in which the 
actions we take as a business impact 
their interests are considered as part of 
decision-making processes across the 
Company. Some examples of these are 
provided below and more information 
can be found in our Strategic and 
Sustainability reports, located from 
pages 1 and 62 respectively.

KEY BOARD DECISIONS DURING FY23 AND HOW STAKEHOLDERS WERE CONSIDERED

1. Financial support payments to employees
In recognition of the increasing cost-of-living 
pressures that were impacting employees, the 
Executive Directors approved the following 
measures to provide targeted financial 
support to those most in need: 

•  Cash payments made to employees earning 

up to a defined threshold and based in 
countries where increases in the cost of 
living had been most acute. The earnings 
threshold was determined such that 
support was effectively targeted at 
employees most in need of support. 

•  Approved the establishment of a Hardship 
Fund which was open to all employees from 
October 2022 to March 2023, regardless  
of their location or salary, to apply for 
additional financial support based on their 
individual needs. 

The proposals were supported fully by the 
Remuneration Committee and the Board and 
positive feedback was received from employees 
via the Employee Listening Group sessions.

Stakeholder considerations and impact  
on long-term sustainable success
The Board’s decision endorsed one of 
Dr. Martens key values, ‘show you care’, and 
reinforced the value of Dr. Martens employees 
and culture to the business. Our culture helps 
to attract and retain talent, which in turn 
supports the operational excellence pillar of 
the DOCS strategy.

Stakeholders considered:  

2. Investment in innovative materials
To accelerate the development of sustainable 
materials, the Board approved a strategic 
investment in Generation Phoenix Limited 
(Gen Phoenix), a leading producer of recycled 
leather at scale using leather waste, following 
a successful 18-month working relationship 
developing a material suitable for our products.

Stakeholder considerations and impact  
on long-term sustainable success
The demand for sustainable material solutions 
is growing rapidly. The partnership with Gen 
Phoenix will enable Dr. Martens to deliver 
innovative products to our consumers, who  
are increasingly demanding environmentally 
conscious products. We always seek to work with 
partners that can produce innovative materials 
that meet our durability standards while 
maintaining our products’ unique DNA. 

The strength of Dr. Martens’ sustainability 
strategy is an important consideration for our 
investors, consumers, suppliers and employees 
alike. Investing in a leading innovative 
materials manufacturer supports this strategy 
while preserving the high product standards 
our consumers expect, and demonstrates our 
commitment to sustainable material development.

Stakeholders considered:  

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

23

STRATEGIC REPORT 
 
 
 
 
Stakeholder engagement continued

WHO ARE THEY?
All shareholders of Dr. Martens plc, be they large institutional investors, 
employees, private individuals or our largest single investor, IngreLux S.àr.l.

WHAT ARE THEIR PRIORITIES?
   Strong value creation, our 
business model and delivery  
of the DOCS strategy

   Our position and performance 
in respect of ESG matters

   Strength of leadership

   Clear articulation and effective 
management of risks

   Fair, balanced and 
understandable reporting  
of financial results and  
future prospects

•  Regular in-depth feedback on investor 

•  Additional meetings held either 

owner s

 WHY WE ENGAGE 
•  Our shareholders are the owners of our 
Company. Engaging with them is an 
essential and ongoing process for the 
Board and an important means through 
which it discharges its duty under 
Section 172 of the Companies Act 2006, 
conducted through a range of channels. 

views provided by our corporate brokers 
and following roadshows, our capital 
markets day and conferences.

•  Trading updates announced via the 
London Stock Exchange Regulatory 
News Service in addition to our half  
and full year results.

•  Failing to understand our investors’ 
priorities or retain their support 
exposes the Company to significant 
reputational risk and could jeopardise 
our ability to attract future investment.

•  A wealth of information of relevance or 
interest to investors on topics, including 
governance and sustainability insights  
and our financial calendar, is available at  
www.drmartensplc.com.

 HOW THE COMPANY ENGAGES 
•  Our Investor Relations function is 

focused on ongoing, open engagement 
with our shareholders through regular 
meetings and investor roadshows, 
including one-to-one sessions with our 
largest institutional shareholders, 
investor group meetings and meetings 
with prospective investors.

•  The Director of Investor Relations is 
responsible for investor engagement 
and ensuring that the Board is kept 
apprised of investors’ views. 

 HOW THE BOARD ENGAGES 
•  Board members are available at the AGM 
to answer questions submitted by email 
in advance or on the day of the meeting.

•  Investor roadshows held post-financial 
results with our largest institutional 
investors by the Executive Directors 
and the Investor Relations team. An 
additional roadshow with the Chairman 
is also held at least annually.

in-person or virtually. In FY23 a number 
of such meetings were held following 
our Q3 announcement, attended by the 
Chairman, Chief Executive Officer and 
Chief Financial Officer.

•  The capital markets day, held in July 

2022 and focusing on the topic of EMEA 
conversion markets, was attended by 
the Executive Directors, key members of 
the GLT and senior leadership, enabling 
direct engagement with investors on the 
growth opportunities presented by 
executing the DOCS strategy in these 
previously distributor markets.

•  At least every three years, the Chair  

of the Remuneration Committee invites 
our largest investors to discuss the 
Company’s Remuneration Policy.

•  Ongoing close engagement with 

IngreLux S.àr.l. (owned by funds advised 
by Permira), our largest shareholder. 
Details of the relationship agreement 
with IngreLux S.àr.l., which ensures  
the Company continues to act fairly 
between shareholders, are provided  
in the Directors’ report on page 162.

 METRICS 
•  A total of 194 investor meetings 

covering 98 separate firms in FY23,  
112 of which were attended by at least 
one of the Chief Executive Officer,  
Chief Financial Officer or Chairman.

•  Regular qualitative feedback  

received from investors following 
results presentations. 

•  Movements in our share register  
and share price analysis reported  
to the Board at each meeting.

•  AGM voting outcomes. 

 OUTCOMES 
•  The investor roadshow with the Chairman 
in February 2023 was repurposed to 
focus on the Q3 trading update, enabling 
investors to discuss questions and 
concerns with the Chairman directly. 

•  All resolutions passed at the 2022 AGM 
with at least 97% of votes in favour and 
over 80% of total voting capital instructed. 

•  Following the FY23 interim results, we 
refined our external reporting style to 
improve consistency and the clarity of 
key messages. 

 INFLUENCE ON THE BOARD’S  
 DECISION-MAKING 

Feedback and questions from investors 
received after our Q3 trading update 
were considered in advance of the 
subsequent internal review. This is 
addressed in more detail in the CEO’s 
statement, from page 12.

Additionally, investors’ priorities 
informed the Board’s shaping of its 
progressive dividend policy and  
overall approach to capital allocation.

24

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

WHO ARE THEY?
All Dr. Martens employees globally, whether based in our own stores, 
offices, distribution centres or factories.

WHAT ARE THEIR PRIORITIES?
   A diverse, equitable and 
inclusive workplace

  Fair compensation

   Having opportunities to grow 
and develop

   Taking a position on climate, 
environmental and social 
justice issues

   Strong workplace culture  
that empowers them to be 
themselves

OUR People

 WHY WE ENGAGE 
•  Regular, high-quality engagement with 
our people drives high performance 
and a willingness to go above and 
beyond at all levels of the organisation, 
starting from the very top.

•  Engaging with our people allows the 
Board and leadership to measure the 
‘mood music’ of the organisation 
through constructive, two-way dialogue 
to understand what is working well and 
to identify areas for improvement.

 HOW THE COMPANY ENGAGES 
•  Our annual Engagement and Inclusion and 

half year Pulse Check surveys are the 
primary method for gathering insight into 
the employee experience at Dr. Martens. 

•  Employee communications from the 
GLT and senior management sent by 
email, newsletter and video keep our 
people informed of key developments, 
milestones and matters of interest.

•  Listening sessions hosted by the  

Chief Product Officer and other GLT 
members, such as those held in the 
USA in October 2022 and April 2023.

•  Our annual management conference, 
‘Time 4 Tomorrow’, brought leaders 
from across the global business 
together, in person, for the first time 
since the pandemic. Among other 
topics, this focused on building 
alignment around our newly articulated 
values and leadership framework.

•  One-off cost-of-living support payments 

to employees in countries where 
cost-of-living pressures were most acute 
and established a Hardship Fund that any 
employee, regardless of salary, could 
apply to for financial support if needed.

 HOW THE BOARD ENGAGES 
•  Global and regional ‘town halls’ including 
open, unscripted Q&A sessions with  
the Executive Directors and GLT where 
employees’ views can be raised and 
discussed directly.

•  Contributions to diversity and inclusion 

initiatives and events such a Black 
History Month, during which Ije 
Nwokorie joined an online ‘fireside chat’ 
to provide insight into how his career 
has been shaped by his identity.

 METRICS 
•  Six Employee Listening Groups with Board 

members held in FY23 covering employees 
from all regions and Group functions, 
with the themes raised reported to the 
following Board meeting.

•  87% response rate to the FY23 

Engagement and Inclusion Survey.

•  Employee engagement is a strategic 

bonus target for the Executive Directors, 
linking effective engagement with the 
potential remuneration of the Company’s 
most senior leaders.

 OUTCOMES 
•  The Board strongly supported the 

provision of support payments and the 
establishment of the Hardship Fund  
to assist employees most impacted by 
cost-of-living pressures. 

•  The engagement strategic bonus target 
was not met in FY23 (see page 145 of 
the Remuneration report). The Executive 
Directors and GLT took the decision to 
waive payouts under the remaining two 
strategic bonus targets, which were 
achieved during the year.

•  Feedback from the Employee Listening 
Groups is an essential source of direct 
insight into a range of issues on which the 
Board is focused, for example outdated 
business critical systems or any 
recruitment or retention issues impacting 
particular regions or functions.

•  Town halls and email communications 
from the Chief Executive Officer were 
essential in ensuring that employees 
were kept informed on the implications 
of the disappointing Q3 trading update 
and in addressing their concerns.

•  Market visits to Milan and New York 

deepened the Board’s understanding  
of those markets and allowed members 
to spend time with local employees.

•  Our Employee Representative Non-

Executive Director, Robyn Perriss, held  
a number of listening groups with 
employees from across the business. The 
Remuneration Committee Chair joined 
several of these to engage on the topic  
of remuneration. The themes from these 
discussions are then discussed at the 
start of the following Board meeting.

 EMPLOYEE LISTENING GROUPS:  
 WHAT THE BOARD HEARD IN FY23 
The themes raised at the Employee 
Listening Groups held in FY23 and fed back 
to the Board included: high workloads and 
the volume of concurrent projects, 
increasing cost-of-living pressures and IT 
investment required to replace some 
manual processes. The Dr. Martens culture 
and an ability for employees to be their 
authentic selves at work were highlighted 
as strengths and there was a consensus 
that the business should continue to 
prioritise future growth through investment 
in the brand and product engines.

 INFLUENCE ON THE BOARD’S  
 DECISION-MAKING 

Feedback from employees on the topics 
of most importance to them, including 
those raised through the Employee 
Listening Groups, were reflected in 
decisions made by the Board during  
the year and have helped to inform its 
strategic priorities for FY24. These 
included the continued prioritisation of 
headcount investment in the Product 
and Marketing teams, the planned 
investment in IT infrastructure and key 
data platforms in FY24 (particularly 
those relating to customer data and the 
supply chain) and in supporting the 
measures put in place during the year  
to ease cost-of-living pressures.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

25

STRATEGIC REPORTStakeholder engagement continued

WHO ARE THEY?
The patchwork of groups and individuals who support our brand and buy 
our products, through any channel.

WHAT ARE THEIR PRIORITIES?
   Innovative, great quality, 
durable products

   Value for money

   A great end-to-end customer 
experience, be it in-store  
or online

   Availability of the products 
they want

   Socially and environmentally 
responsible purchasing 
decisions

   A product with which they 
have an emotional connection

consumer s

 WHY WE ENGAGE 
•  Engaging with, and acting in the 

interests of, our consumers is critical to 
the health of the Dr. Martens brand and 
the long-term success of the Company. 
Without them, our Company would not 
exist. As such, it is essential that the 
business, led by the Board, understands 
what matters to them so that we can 
continue to provide a product offer that 
is relevant and appealing while 
remaining true to our brand DNA. 

•  Improved understanding of our global 

consumer segments through qualitative 
research, helping to drive more 
targeted brand initiatives. 

•  An ongoing commitment to ensuring 

our brand represents all of the myriad 
communities who wear our products. 
For example, during FY23 we produced 
a Pride product offering to pay tribute 
to the LGBTQIA+ community and 
donated over £178k to support a 
number of global LGBTQIA+ charities.

 HOW THE COMPANY ENGAGES 
•  A continuous connection between the 

business and consumers through social 
media provides an essential source of 
actionable insight.

•  The expertise of our retail colleague 

network enables us to establish direct 
relationships with consumers through 
our retail stores and emerging digital 
platforms. 

 HOW THE BOARD ENGAGES 
•  Consumer insights and progress in key 
consumer focused strategic projects 
are reported to the Board through 
updates from the Strategy team and 
Chief Executive Officer. These inform 
future initiatives and ensure we are 
focused on driving improvements to  
the experience of our consumers.  
Consumer panels attended by the  

 METRICS 
•  Brand equity is a strategic target within 
the bonus scheme for the Executive 
Directors, linking long-term brand health 
with the potential remuneration outcomes 
of the Company’s most senior leaders.

•  Insights from the annual and quarterly 
consumer surveys into the relative 
performance of our brand and 
products, including brand awareness, 
familiarity, Net Promoter Score and 
value for money perception.

•  Extensive qualitative research into  
our consumer segments, including 
demographics, purchase behaviour, 
interests, attitudes and values.

•  The engagement rate of our various 
social media channels is tracked as  
a measure of how we are connecting 
with our consumers and audience. 

 OUTCOMES 
•  Enabling more direct communication 

with consumers was a key driver behind 
the decision to convert 14 franchise 
stores in Japan into owned stores. 

•  A growing and highly engaged social 
community (with engagement above 
the majority of our competitive set), 
demonstrating the continued strength 
of the brand with consumers.

•  Consumer feedback on the importance 
of repairing and reselling our products 
led to the launch of our recommerce 
trial in the UK in FY23. Learnings from 
this will be critical for any potential 
future upscaling of this model and the 
recommerce project we will launch in 
the USA to trial recommerce at scale.

Executive Directors, such as the event 
held in Berlin during FY23, provide an 
important opportunity for direct, 
face-to-face engagement and to obtain 
consumers’ views of our products, current 
trends and their developing priorities.

•  Periodic Board visits to key markets, 

such as those to Milan and New York in 
FY23, and regular visits by the Chief 
Executive Officer, Chief Financial Officer 
and the GLT, provide essential insight 
into regional operations, consumer 
segments and priorities.

•  Quarterly marketing updates which 

include detailed information on planned 
consumer engagement activities.

•  Updates provided by the Chief Executive 
Officer and Sustainability team cover 
matters including progress in the area of 
sustainable materials and consumers’ 
views on the recommerce trial. 

 INFLUENCE ON THE BOARD’S  
 DECISION-MAKING 

•  Consumers are central to the 

Board’s discussions and building 
closer, stronger connections with 
them was a significant influence on 
the strategic decision to prioritise 
DTC operations.

•  Insights acquired through consumer 

engagement inform the Board’s 
thinking around marketing and 
future pricing strategies. In FY23, 
the Board agreed to increase 
marketing spend to enable the brand 
to reach more consumers globally.

•  Strong consumer support for 

improving the sustainability of our 
products was an important driver  
for the Board in deciding to pursue 
initiatives such as the investment in 
recycled leather and the launch of the 
successful recommerce trial in the UK.

26

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 
WHO ARE THEY?
The key B2B partners supporting the expansion of our brand across new 
and existing markets.

WHAT ARE THEIR PRIORITIES?
   Driving awareness of brands 
within multi-branded retail to 
capture new consumers

   Providing a top-quality 
end-to-end customer 
experience online and in store

   Clear understanding of their 
consumer base, offering a 
range of products that meet 
their needs

   Building long-term relationships 
with partner brands

•  Engaging with our key B2B partners on 
the end-to-end go-to-market process 
ensures that our brand and products are 
presented in the right way, in line with 
our seasonal strategies and brand stories.

•  We review, evaluate and implement  
our product segmentation strategy 
within the B2B marketplace, ensuring 
we get the right product into the right 
locations to serve the needs of our 
partners and consumers.

•  Close management of our B2B 

orderbook ensures we deliver goods  
on time to our partners and review 
opportunities to upsell to partners 
based on our inventory.

•  Twice yearly product showcases held in 
our showrooms globally to present our 
seasonal product ranges directly to our 
key partners.

•  Collaboration between our Marketing 
teams and B2B partners enables us  
to implement consistent marketing 
strategies at scale in multiple locations.

 HOW THE BOARD ENGAGES 
•  B2B performance is regularly reported 
to the Board through updates provided 
by the Chief Financial Officer.

•  The Board receives regular updates 
from each of the Group’s regional 
businesses on local B2B operations, 
progress in key strategic initiatives 
such as the Japan franchise transfers 
and future growth opportunities.

•  The Executive Directors review distributor, 
franchise and concession opportunities at 
monthly Real Estate Committee meetings, 
the activities of which are reported to 
each Board meeting.

•  The Board visits stores operated by our 
partners on each of its market visits.  
In FY23, this included visits to stores in 
New York and Milan. Additionally, the 
Executive Directors visited a significant 
number of partner-owned stores during 
their numerous market visits, including 
Berlin, Tokyo, Seoul and in various 
locations across the USA.

•  Continued investment in the 

refurbishment of distributor and 
franchise stores to enhance the 
consumer experience and ensure brand 
presentation is in line with our standards.

•  Development of ‘shop in shop’ displays 
in key wholesale doors enables us to 
showcase our products and brand more 
extensively.

•  The local expertise of our distributors 
allows us to take advantage of short-
term opportunities to increase brand 
awareness and test the DTC potential of 
new markets through ‘pop-up’ stores.

 INFLUENCE ON THE BOARD’S  
 DECISION-MAKING 

•  Ensuring the availability of the right 
products at the right time to meet 
wholesale partner demand was a key 
factor in the supply chain strategy for 
the year, following a period of supply 
chain challenges in prior years. 

•  Fulfilment of wholesale partner 

orders, sell through and inventory 
levels are reviewed monthly by the 
Executive Directors through regular 
reporting. On occasion when delayed 
production and transit times would 
result in products arriving late, the 
Executive Directors have agreed to 
additional costs to air freight products 
to ensure delivery was on time. 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

27

partner s

 WHY WE ENGAGE 
•  As the source of just under half of total 
annual Group revenue, it is imperative 
that we continue to foster close, strong 
working relationships with our key B2B 
partners and ensure our brand is showing 
up in an authentic way, with the quality 
experience and product assortments our 
consumers expect.

•  In large geographically dispersed 

markets such as the USA, the wholesale 
channel allows us to reach more 
consumers to introduce them to our 
Dr. Martens brand.

•  To ensure that appropriate inventory 

and product mix is planned for the right 
times of year, with an assortment that 
supports the consumer that shops in 
those stores. 

 HOW THE COMPANY ENGAGES 
•  Regional B2B functions manage and 

maintain relationships with our 
wholesale partners, including regular 
communication and engagement.

 METRICS 
•  Improvements in wholesale partner 
quality assessed with reference to 
wholesale revenue growth, which was 
4% in FY23, and the total number of 
wholesale accounts, down 5% to 1.9k 
accounts in total as at 31 March 2023 
from 2k in FY22. 

•  Reviews of inbound shipments and 

analysis of sell through data.

 OUTCOMES 
•  Steps taken during the year to reduce our 
B2B account base and refocus on fewer, 
higher-quality partners to expand the 
reach of our brand, increase our control 
of brand presentation and improve the 
overall consumer experience. 

STRATEGIC REPORTStakeholder engagement continued

WHO ARE THEY?
Product manufacturers, tanneries and other producers of the materials used 
in Dr. Martens products, logistics carriers and distribution centre partners.

WHAT ARE THEIR PRIORITIES?
   Long-term collaboration

   Responsible supply chain 
assurance (including 
environment, modern slavery 
and broader human rights) 

   Opportunities for further growth

   Socially and environmentally 
responsible operations

   Prompt payment and fair 
terms and conditions

supplier s

 WHY WE ENGAGE 
•  Our supply chain is fundamental to  
the ability of the business to operate 
effectively and deliver our DTC first 
strategy, enabling the sourcing, 
manufacture, storage and distribution 
of our products to consumers globally 
and at the scale needed to support  
our growth ambitions.

•  Our suppliers are closely involved in  

the most resource and energy intensive 
aspects of our business and, as such, 
are critical partners in realising the 
objectives of our sustainability strategy. 
Embedding our environmental 
principles and practices across the 
supply chain is only possible through 
constructive engagement with them.

•  Through close engagement and 
working in partnership with our 
suppliers, we committed to ensuring 
that the rights of workers across  
our supply chain are respected.

 HOW THE COMPANY ENGAGES 
•  Regular supplier conferences hosted by 
our Chief Operating Officer and monthly 
supplier meetings facilitated by the 
Global Supply Chain leadership team.

•  An ongoing process of regular 

assessment of manufacturing facilities, 
including periodic inspections, 
improvement activities and CSR audits 
conducted through the CSR monitoring 
programme, which focuses on managing 
human rights risks in the supply chain. 

•  The Dr. Martens Supplier Code of 
Conduct is communicated to all 
suppliers, who are required to comply 
with it at all times.

•  The supply chain function is responsible 

for delivering many aspects of the 
sustainability strategy and works with 
suppliers to drive a sustainable, 
responsible supply chain. The Chief 
Operating Officer is a key member of 
the Sustainability Committee, providing 
oversight of this process.

 HOW THE BOARD ENGAGES 
•  The Board discusses Company 

performance at each Board meeting 
and received regular updates on the 
supply chain during the year, including 
the work with suppliers to unlock value 
and enable growth.

•  The Board received reports, including 

from the Chief Operating Officer, on the 
internal review of the issues impacting 
the LA distribution centre, including the 
underlying causes, lessons learned, the 
short-term remedial action taken and a 
longer-term action plan. 

•  The Board, supported by the Chief 
Operating Officer, reviews the long-
term needs of the supply chain 
network, particularly in terms of 
increased production and logistical 
capacity, in the context of its future 
growth plans.

 METRICS 
•  Data acquired through the CSR 

 OUTCOMES 
•  Close monitoring of our payment 

 INFLUENCE ON THE BOARD’S  
 DECISION-MAKING 

monitoring programme provides insight 
into levels of compliance with relevant 
labour laws, regulations, industry 
standards and our own Supplier Code 
of Conduct.

•  Environmental data requested from 

Tier 1 suppliers to enable us to 
understand our Scope 3 emissions.

•  Monitoring payment processes to 

ensure that suppliers are paid within 
agreed terms.

•  Direct engagement with individual Tier 
1 suppliers through five conferences 
held during the year, led by the Chief 
Operating Officer.

performance ensures our suppliers are 
paid in full and in a timely fashion, 
providing assurance in a challenging 
economic environment.

•  Long-lasting, strong relationships 

established with key suppliers which 
encourage high standards of delivery 
and constructive ways of working.

•  A good level of supplier alignment with 
our sustainability priorities through the 
adoption of a range of relevant policies 
and standards, including the Supplier 
Environmental Standard and General 
Material Requirement Policy and 
sustainable leather commitments. 

The feedback, insights and outcomes 
from engagement with suppliers have 
a significant impact on how the Board 
shapes the Group’s strategic priorities, 
from decisions relating to the Group’s 
logistical capacity or determining the 
jurisdictions from which we source 
materials or base our manufacturing, 
through to the selection of our Key Tier 1 
and 2 suppliers. During FY23, the Board 
considered the global footprint of 
manufacturing and distribution capacity to 
optimise lead times and the spread of risk 
across the business by ensuring there was 
no over-reliance on any single market.

28

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

WHO ARE THEY?
The environment on which our activities have an impact and the 
communities in which the business operates globally.

WHAT ARE THEIR PRIORITIES?
   The environmental impact of our 
business and products, including 
our impact on the climate

   Use of sustainable materials and 
energy from renewable sources

   Diversity, equity and inclusion

   Playing a positive role in 
society both at a local and 
global level

environment  
& communities

 WHY WE ENGAGE 
•  As a footwear retailer we have to  
be mindful of the impact of our 
manufacturing, distribution and retail 
operations on the environment. We 
have therefore developed a clear 
strategy that will allow us to measure, 
manage and reduce our carbon 
footprint to achieve our Net-Zero 
emissions ambitions while embedding 
sustainability principles across the 
global business and supply chain.

•  We believe in supporting people to 

stand up for what they believe in and 
are committed, through the Dr. Martens 
Foundation, to do more for 
communities facing social injustice.

 HOW THE COMPANY ENGAGES 
•  Our ‘Planet, Product, People’ 

sustainability strategy captures the 
Company’s environmental and social 
impact commitments.

•  The Sustainability Committee oversees 
the sustainability strategy and monitors 
sustainability initiatives across the 
business to drive further improvements.

•  Online training is provided by the 
Company to employees on human 
rights and CSR themes. 

•  Two paid volunteering days a year are 
provided to employees to enable them 
to support local community initiatives.

•  The work of the Dr. Martens Foundation 
is shared with employees via internal 
communication channels, including at 
global town halls and by email, to 
encourage employees to participate by 
nominating charities to receive 
grassroot grants.

•  Direct engagement with non-

governmental organisations, industry 
associations and experts, to ensure our 
sustainability strategy continues to 
deliver value and addresses relevant 
social and environmental issues.

 METRICS 
•  The sustainability of the materials we 
use. 98% of our leather was sourced 
from Leather Working Group (LWG) 
certified tanneries while 91% of the 
electricity used by our DTC operations 
in the UK and EMEA was from 
renewable sources in FY23. 

•  The charitable organisations that, 

through the Dr. Martens Foundation, 
the Company and our employees help 
to fund, with a total of £2.4m awarded 
to 34 organisations by the Dr. Martens 
Foundation in FY23. 

•  Sustainability is a strategic target within 

the bonus scheme for the Executive 
Directors, linking performance in this area 
with the potential remuneration of the 
Company’s most senior leaders.

 OUTCOMES 
•  Significant progress made in each of 
the sustainability strategic pillars of 
‘Planet, Product, People’, detailed in  
the Sustainability report from page 66.

•  Identified and established a set of clear 

Science-Based Targets to reduce 
carbon emissions, which were approved 
by the Board.

•  Approved a new partnership with 

recycled leather producer Gen Phoenix, 
with plans to incorporate this material 
into Dr. Martens products during FY24. 

•  Five of six targets within the 

sustainability strategic bonus target were 
met in FY23; however, the Executive 
Directors and GLT took the decision to 
waive any payouts under all strategic 
elements of the FY23 bonus scheme.

 HOW THE BOARD ENGAGES 
•  The Board receives reports on the key 

initiatives considered by the Sustainability 
Committee and the activities of the 
Dr. Martens Foundation from members of 
the Senior Leadership Team and updates 
from the Chief Executive Officer, who 
chairs the Committee.

•  The Board oversees the Company’s 

broader sustainability reporting within 
the Annual Report and, through the Audit 
and Risk Committee, assesses the quality 
of the Company’s TCFD disclosures.

•  Dedicated ‘horizon scanning’ updates on 
environmental, social and governance 
issues provided to the Board quarterly 
ensure it is kept up to date on regulatory 
changes and other developments in  
this area.

 INFLUENCE ON THE BOARD’S  
 DECISION-MAKING 

The data, reports and updates 
described on this page and in greater 
depth in the Sustainability report 
enable the Board to monitor the 
impact of the business across 
numerous environmental indicators 
and guide its broader decision-making. 

The Board is also focused on ensuring 
the business continues to support the 
communities in which Dr. Martens 
operates through initiatives that aim to 
deliver lasting societal impact, in line 
with our values. During FY23 the Board 
approved the long-term funding 
arrangements for the Dr. Martens 
Foundation, securing its ability to 
continue to focus on building charitable 
partnerships that advance social justice 
and have a meaningful impact on local 
communities. 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

29

STRATEGIC REPORTOur strategy

DELIVERING  
AGAINST OUR

STRATEGY

Our strategy is grounded in 
 Rebellious Self Expression. 

We want the world to wear DM’s 
when they have their moments 
of Rebellious Self Expression.

Our DOCS strategy is about 
selling more pairs of boots, shoes 
and sandals, to more people, 
through our own DTC, in our 
seven priority markets.

UK / US / FRANCE / GERMANY /  
ITALY / JAPAN / CHINA

30

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

S
E
I
T
I
R
O
I
R
P
R
U
O

DTC FIRST

Build brand equity and  
drive margin expansion 

WHAT IT MEANS 
Drive revenue growth and margin expansion 
via direct-to-consumer channels which means 
expanding and improving our owned retail 
stores and ecommerce platforms. We want  
to develop frictionless and brand-enhancing 
omnichannel consumer journeys. We also want 
to build a profitable resale, repair and end of 
life business model.

HOW WE PERFORMED IN FY23
•  Increased our DTC mix by 3%pts to 52%

•  Grew revenue from our DTC channel by 16%

•  Opened 52 new retail stores including the 
transfer of 14 Japan franchise stores to 
retail – pro-forma Japan DTC mix of c.80%

•  Successful launch of repair and resale in the 
UK – average review score of 4.9 out of 5

•  Omnichannel trial in six UK stores; ‘click 
and collect’, ‘return to store’ and ‘store 
stock look-up’

NEXT STEPS FOR FY24
•  Further growth in DTC mix from DTC growth 
and reduction in pairs sold through etailers 
in EMEA

•  Open another 25-35 retail stores across  

the world

•  Expansion of our repair and resale 

programme into the US following successful 
UK trial

•  If omnichannel trial successful, roll out  
to the rest of UK and EMEA initially

OUR DOCS STRATEGY IS 
UNDERPINNED BY OUR  
PLANET, PRODUCT, PEOPLE 
SUSTAINABILITY STRATEGY

 
ORGANISATIONAL AND
OPERATIONAL EXCELLENCE

CONSUMER 
CONNECTION

SUPPORT BRAND
EXPANSION WITH B2B

Enable growth  
and unlock value

Acquire new consumers  
and drive loyalty

Manage B2B holistically  
and purposefully

WHAT IT MEANS 
Drive DM’s culture with a focus on 
organisational engagement and developing  
our people for growth. We want to build a 
best-in-class, resilient, sustainable and scalable 
supply chain and continue to transform data 
and technology into a key business enabler, 
strengthening organisational resilience and 
information security.

HOW WE PERFORMED IN FY23
•  Successful launch of global ERP solution in 
Japan meaning c.95% of revenues are now 
on one platform

•  Order management system implemented  

in EMEA

•  Opened new larger DC’s in the Netherlands, 

the UK and LA

•  Resolved all operational issues at the LA DC

•  Hired new Head of Talent and implemented  

a leadership framework assessment

WHAT IT MEANS 
Ignite the brand engine to inspire Rebellious 
Self Expression. Our product innovation is 
grounded in icons and year-round relevance. 
We aim to lead in sustainability through 
durability and innovation. Finally, we will 
harness insights and a digital-first mindset  
to drive cut-through marketing initiatives.

WHAT IT MEANS 
We aim to partner with fewer and better B2B 
partners to reach more consumers with greater 
brand presence. We will continue to improve our 
brand presentation and increase controlled 
spaces to enhance the consumer experience. 
Finally, this pillar includes our conversion 
market strategy, which enables us to implement 
our DOCS strategy in more geographies.

HOW WE PERFORMED IN FY23
•  Ran successful marketing campaigns 

HOW WE PERFORMED IN FY23
•  Improved quality of our wholesale partners; 

including ‘Unpolished’, focussing on our icons

revenue per account1 up 15%

•  Continued to drive our newest category, 
sandals, with 54% growth year-on-year 
while continuing to focus on boots and shoes

•  Invested in recycled leather company Gen 
Phoenix to support industry-wide adoption 
of sustainable materials

•  Continued success in our conversion 
markets – in Italy’s first full year of 
operation, we opened three new stores and 
increased DTC mix by 11%pts to 33%

•  Improved our wholesale presence with more 
branded shop-in-shops, particularly in EMEA

NEXT STEPS FOR FY24
•  Expansion and reconfiguration of our  

New Jersey DC so it can pick, pack and  
ship both DTC and wholesale orders

NEXT STEPS FOR FY24
•  Committed to increasing marketing 

investment to reach a target of 7-8%  
of revenue

NEXT STEPS FOR FY24
•  Refocus EMEA etailer product range from 

Originals to Fusion and Casual

•  Continue to drive growth in EMEA conversion 

•  Trial customer data platform, allowing  
us to understand our consumers better

•  Implement product lifecycle management 
system allowing us to manage our product 
development process from inception to 
manufacture

•  Implement best-in-class demand/supply 

planning system

•  Increasing investment in product innovation 

markets; multi-year growth opportunity

and collaborations

•  Launch products with recycled leather 
following partnership with Gen Phoenix

•  Work closely with leading wholesale 
customers on inventory management

1.   Revenue per account is calculated as revenue 
divided by average number of accounts in the 
year, excluding Italy due to the impact of its  
FY22 conversion.

Planet

Product

PEOPLE

• Climate  • Operations

• Materials  • Packaging  • Lifecycle

• DE&I  • Human rights  • Community

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

31

STRATEGIC REPORTOur strategy in action

BUILDING 
BRAND EQUITY AND DRIVING  
MARGIN EXPANSION

DTC FIRST

A
P
A
C
–
J
A
P
A
N

HOW OUR SUSTAINABILITY STRATEGY 
IS SUPPORTING DTC FIRST
Recommerce presents a significant 
commercial opportunity for Dr. Martens 
while also helping us meet our sustainability 
commitments, including our long-term 
Net-Zero ambition. In April 2022, we 
launched our first repair and resale trial  
in the UK, and are finalising plans to 
launch a similar initiative in the USA.

  READ MORE P83

32

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 
 
39%

of APAC revenue  
comes from Japan

40

owned and operated  
stores in Japan

+19%

Japan DTC revenue

GROWING DTC IN JAPAN, OUR THIRD MOST IMPORTANT MARKET,  
DRIVEN BY FRANCHISE STORE TRANSFER

 Japan  is our third key market globally and 
contributes 39% currently to APAC revenue. 

Historically, we have worked very closely with 
franchisees in Japan to ensure we have a brand 
presence in as many key cities as possible. At the 
start of the year therefore, we had 22 own retail 
stores and 31 franchise stores in Japan.

The opportunity to grow revenue and profit in Japan 
is significant. With a population of 126 million and 12 
cities with a population greater than one million, the 
runway for future growth is long and we believe the 
way to best capture this opportunity is to improve 
our operational and brand control within this market. 
At the start of the year, pairs per capita in Japan was 
four, compared to eight in Italy, 15 in Germany and 32 
in the UK, for example. 

Given this opportunity, we decided to approach  
our franchisees with a plan to transfer 14 of the  
31 franchised stores, all in and around the Tokyo  
and Osaka metropolitan areas, with a combined 
population of 53m that over indexes a younger 
population, in order to convert them into owned and 
operated stores. At the same time, we agreed with 
them that they could open a number of additional 
franchise stores in other cities across Japan.

The seamless transfer of these stores to our retail 
estate took place in Q4. Alongside opening four 
additional owned and operated stores, it meant we 
ended the year with 40 owned and operated stores 
and 16 franchised stores. As a result, DTC mix in 
Japan will be a pro-forma 80%, the highest level in 
any of our priority markets and a trailblazer market 
for future DTC expansion elsewhere. We believe this 
is the platform for many years of attractive growth 
and improved brand awareness.

Tokyo

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

33

STRATEGIC REPORTOur strategy in action continued

ENABLING
GROWTH AND  
UNLOCKING VALUE

L E NCE

L

E

C

ATIONAL E X

R
E
P
O
D
N
A
L
A
N
O
I
T
A
S
I
N
A
G
R
O

34

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 
 
MAKING STEPS TOWARDS A SEAMLESS 
OMNICHANNEL EXPERIENCE

In the last quarter of our financial year, we 
trialled our first omnichannel offerings of 
‘click and collect’, ‘store stock look-up’ and 
‘return to store’ in some of our UK stores.

These features aim to give the consumer a more 
seamless purchasing journey. Once the trials have 
succeeded, we will look to roll out functionality 
across the rest of EMEA, America and APAC.

Store stock look up 

This feature allows online consumers to check if a 
product is in stock before heading to store. The feature 
was added in March, initially targeting London-based 
website users, providing an in-stock or out-of-stock view 
of a product and size. After a successful trial, this has 
now been expanded to cover all UK store locations.

Click and collect

This gives the online consumer the option 
of collecting in store where there is stock 
availability. This feature was offered in one 
UK store in March and a number of new 
stores have been added to the trial in April. 
We are continuing to collect data relating 
to return volumes and repurchase rates.

RETURN TO STORE

This allows a consumer who purchased a product 
online to return it to store, thereby reducing 
significantly the cost of return for consumers.  
Six UK stores are now able to accept returns of 
products purchased online. Since going live, we  
have processed over > 400 return orders and  
have received positive feedback from consumers.  
Our next step is to gradually roll this out to more  
UK stores.

6

UK stores launched in 
omnichannel trial

HOW OUR SUSTAINABILITY 
STRATEGY IS SUPPORTING 
OPERATIONAL EXCELLENCE
We are building a sustainable and 
resilient supply chain. This includes 
collaboration with our suppliers  
to implement more responsible 
practices including waste reduction  
and improving traceability.

  READ MORE P75

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

35

STRATEGIC REPORTOur strategy in action continued

CONSU M E R   C O N N ECTION

No.1

ranking globally in  
boots for unprompted  
awareness

36

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

ACQUIRING
NEW CUSTOMERS
AND DRIVING LOYALTY

GENERATING ‘ORIGINALS’ HEAT THROUGH OUR 
‘UNPOLISHED’ CAMPAIGN

Ahead of the start of our peak trading 
season, in September, we launched  
a global marketing campaign called 
‘Unpolished’ which was focused on 
increasing brand awareness and 
familiarity of the Dr. Martens icons:  
the 1460 boot, the 1461 shoe, the 2976 
Chelsea boot and the Jadon boot.

The campaign featured a 3D 
interpretation of our iconic yellow 
stitch thread and was present in  

key cities across the world including 
London, Paris, Amsterdam, New York 
and Hong Kong. 

For the ‘Unpolished’ digital experience 
we created four landing pages for  
each product which allowed us to dive 
deeper into the silhouettes, their 
history, product details and ways to 
wear, and allowed consumers to shop 
the wider range.

HOW OUR SUSTAINABILITY 
STRATEGY IS SUPPORTING 
CONSUMER CONNECTION
Our consumers connect with the 
timelessness and durability of our 
products. As brand custodians,  
we want to retain these characteristics 
while we are moving towards our 
long-term vision of a regenerative and 
circular product lifecycle. At the same 
time, we are standing up for the issues 
our consumers care about as part of 
Rebellious Self Expression.

  READ MORE P77

m
a
d
r
e
t
s
m
A

New Yor k

MEASURING OUR SUCCESS
Elevating our iconic stitch through the Unpolished 
creative allowed us to create huge impact by connecting 
all digital and physical consumer touchpoints seamlessly 
across the globe. This campaign allowed us to drive our 
commercial objectives while ensuring simultaneously that 
our brand, through our distinctive IP, was front and centre.

>1m

reached through  
social media

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

37

STRATEGIC REPORTOur strategy in action continued

MANAGING
B2B HOLISTICALLY  
AND PURPOSEFULLY

X P A N SION WITH B2

B

RT BRA N D   E

O
P
P
U
S

IMPROVEMENT IN 
WHOLESALE PRESENCE/
SHOP-IN-SHOPS

During the year, we continued to  
improve our wholesale customer base.  
We are focused on working with the  
right strategic partners for the business 
and therefore look at how we can  
improve the overall quality of wholesale 
partners by changing the customer mix 
constantly and adding new relationships 
with higher-quality partners. While our 
strategy is to reduce the share of revenue 
from the wholesale channel over time,  
we do still expect it to play an important 
role in reaching new consumers and to 
grow revenue and profit going forward.  
At the year end, we had 1.9k wholesale 
accounts, down from 2.0k in FY22.

1.9k

wholesale accounts

38

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

E

E

L

C

A

N

S

E

E

S

L

E

O

W H

9

additional shop-in-shops 
invested in across the  
EMEA region

R

P

As part of our working relationship with higher-quality 
partners, we are looking to elevate our brand presence 
further with more shop-in-shop experiences, 
particularly in EMEA initially. Shop-in-shops require 
investment from Dr. Martens and allow us to control 
how our brand looks in the wholesale market. A 
shop-in-shop gives our consumers a better Dr. Martens 
experience and raises brand awareness significantly.

During the year, we invested in an additional nine 
shop-in-shops across the EMEA region including  
in stores such as La Rinascente and Printemps  
and in cities such as Milan and Paris respectively.

WE HAVE CONTINUED TO 
IMPROVE THE OVERALL 
QUALITY OF OUR 
WHOLESALE PARTNERS.

MIKE STOPFORTH 
PRESIDENT, EMEA

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

39

STRATEGIC REPORTKey performance indicators

MEASURING OUR

PERFORMANCE

FINANCIAL

Revenue

£1,000.3m

EBITDA1,2

£245.0m

EBITDA margin1,2

24.5%

.

m
3
8
0
9
£

.

m
3
0
0
0
,
1
£

.

m
0
3
7
7
£

.

m
2
2
7
6
£

.

m
0
3
6
2
£

.

m
0
5
4
2
£

.

m
9
2
2
2
£

.

m
5
4
8
1
£

%
4
7
2

.

.

%
8
8
2

%
0
9
2

.

.

%
5
4
2

FY20

FY21

FY22

FY23

FY20

FY21

FY22

FY23

FY20

FY21

FY22

FY23

What are we measuring?
Revenue arises from the sale of products to 
consumers and is stated excluding value 
added tax and other sales-related taxes.

Why is it important?
Revenue growth is crucial for sustainable 
long-term growth and is driven through 
increasing the number of pairs sold, 
attracting and retaining customers and 
the shift to DTC.

Performance
Revenue increased by 10% in FY23, driven 
by the 3%pts DTC mix improvement, new 
retail stores and higher prices. Wholesale 
growth was held back by operational 
issues at the LA DC.

What are we measuring?
EBITDA is the Group’s key profit measure 
to show performance from operations.

What are we measuring?
EBITDA margin expresses EBITDA as a 
percentage of revenue.

Why is it important?
EBITDA demonstrates our ability to  
grow cash profits and deliver a return  
on our revenue.

Performance
EBITDA fell by 7%, due in part to increased 
investment in long-term growth and costs 
related to resolving the LA DC issues.

Why is it important?
Our EBITDA margin demonstrates how 
effective we are at converting revenues 
into profits, and assessing operational 
performance and efficiencies.

Performance
EBITDA margin declined by 4.5pts to 24.5% 
due to lower than expected revenue, 
increased investment in future growth  
and costs associated with the LA DC.

Key associated risks
•  Brand and product
•  People, culture and change
•  Supply chain

Key associated risks
•  Brand and product
•  Supply chain
•  Financial

Key associated risks
•  Brand and product
•  Supply chain
•  Financial

Links to strategic pillar:

Links to strategic pillar:

Links to strategic pillar:

1.  Alternative Performance Measures as defined in the Glossary on pages 227 and 228.
2.  Before exceptional items.

40

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

The Group monitors several key metrics to track the 
financial and non-financial performance of its business. 
APMs1 are used as we believe they provide additional  
useful information on underlying trends. The APMs are  
not defined by IFRS and therefore may not be directly 
comparable with other companies’ APMs.

PBT

£159.4m

.

m
3
4
1
2
£

.

m
7
9
6
£

.

m
4
9
5
1
£

.

m
0
1
0
1
£

Basic EPS1,2

12.9p

p
5
7

.

p
5
3

.

Links to strategy: 

 Direct-to-consumer first

 Organisational and operational excellence 

 Consumer connection 

 Support brand expansion with B2B

   OUR STRATEGY P30

Operating cash flow1,3

£48.4m

.

p
1
8
1

.

p
9
2
1

77% 
m
0
2
4
1
£

.

105% 
m

.

1
4
3
2
£

79% 

m

.

1
8
0
2
£

.

m
4
8
4
£
20% 

FY20

FY21

FY22

FY23

FY20

FY21

FY22

FY23

FY20

FY21

FY22

FY23

What are we measuring?
PBT shows the Group’s profit performance 
before exceptional costs and after 
financing costs.

What are we measuring?
EPS is profit after tax per share in issue 
and indicates how much profit a company 
generates for each share of its stock.

Why is it important?
PBT includes depreciation, amortisation 
and net interest costs and therefore 
provides another view of our profitability.

Performance
PBT declined by 26% due to lower 
EBITDA, higher depreciation from  
new stores and FX losses.

Why is it important?
EPS represents the earnings achieved  
for each share and over time growth of 
this metric should result in increased 
shareholder value.

Performance
Basic and underlying EPS declined by 29% 
and 26% respectively. This was due to the 
lower profits achieved in the year.

What are we measuring?
Operating cash flow shows the Group’s cash 
from operations after capital expenditure.

Why is it important?
The level of operating cash flow generated 
by the business is important in assessing 
the underlying quality of performance and 
the sustainability of growth.

Performance
Operating cash flow as a percentage of 
EBITDA was 20%, a 59% decline compared 
with FY22. This is predominantly due to the 
significant working capital outflow in the 
year due to investment in inventory.

Key associated risks
•  Brand and product
•  People, culture and change
•  Supply chain
•  Financial

Key associated risks
•  Brand and product
•  People, culture and change
•  Supply chain
•  Financial

Key associated risks
•  Brand and product
•  Supply chain
•  Financial

Links to strategic pillar:

Links to strategic pillar:

Links to strategic pillar:

1.  Alternative Performance Measures as defined in the Glossary on pages 227 and 228.
2.  Refer to Finance review and note 10 of the consolidated financial statements for further information on EPS and diluted EPS.
3.  Before exceptional items.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

41

STRATEGIC REPORTKey performance indicators continued

Links to strategy: 

 Direct-to-consumer first 

 Organisational and operational excellence 

 Consumer connection 

 Support brand expansion with B2B

NON-FINANCIAL

Pairs

13.8m

m
7
2
1

.

m

.

1
1
1

m

.

1
4
1

Direct-to-consumer mix

Ecommerce mix

52%

m
8
3
1

.

%
5
4

%
3
4

%
9
4

%
2
5

28%

%
0
2

%
0
3

%
9
2

%
8
2

FY20

FY21

FY22

FY23

FY20

FY21

FY22

FY23

FY20

FY21

FY22

FY23

What are we measuring?
The number of boots, shoes and sandals 
sold during the year, through all channels.

Why is it important?
We have a volume-led growth strategy 
given the under penetration of our brand, 
and therefore pairs is a key metric for  
our business.

Performance
In FY23, we sold 13.8m pairs, a 2% decline 
compared with FY22. 

What are we measuring?
DTC mix shows the combined ecommerce 
and retail revenues as a percentage of 
total revenue.

What are we measuring?
Ecommerce mix shows the total 
ecommerce revenue as a percentage  
of total revenue.

Why is it important?
We aim to grow DTC revenue to at least 
60% mix in the medium term, and this 
metric therefore demonstrates our 
progress against this target.

Why is it important?
We aim to grow ecommerce revenue  
in the medium term and this metric 
therefore demonstrates our progress 
against this target.

Performance
DTC mix improved by 3pts to 52% driven 
by strong retail growth.

Performance
Ecommerce mix declined by 1% compared 
with FY22 due to the stronger recovery of 
retail post Covid-19.

Key associated risks
•  Brand and product
•  Supply chain
•  Financial
•  Social and environmental

Key associated risks
•  Brand and product
•  People, culture and change
•  Supply chain

Key associated risks
•  Brand and product
•  People, culture and change
•  Information and cyber security

Links to strategic pillar:

Links to strategic pillar:

Links to strategic pillar:

42

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Own stores

204

4
0
2

8
5
1

2
2
1

5
3
1

FY20

FY21

FY22

FY23

What are we measuring?
Own stores show the total number of retail 
stores the Group directly operates globally.

Why is it important?
Increasing our store estate drives retail 
and ecommerce revenue growth and is 
therefore a key driver to increase DTC mix.

Performance
During FY23, we opened 52 new stores 
including 14 franchise transfers in Japan.

Key associated risks
•  Brand and product
•  People, culture and change
•  Supply chain
•  Social and environmental

Links to strategic pillar:

LINKAGE TO REMUNERATION
Metrics directly linked
We measure profitability both within 
our short-term incentive, the Global 
Bonus Scheme (GBS) and also our 
Long Term Incentive Plan (LTIP). 
75% of the GBS is assessed on 
stretching PBT growth targets and 
the LTIP is based on underlying  
EPS growth targets. Both PBT and 
EPS are comprehensive profitability 
measures which are closely aligned 
with shareholder value creation.

   REMUNERATION REPORT P139

Key drivers indirectly linked 
Of the key financial drivers, revenue 
growth, EBITDA, EBITDA margin and 
cash flow all help to drive profit and 
long-term sustainable business 
growth. While these are not directly 
identified as metrics within the GBS 
and LTIP, they feed into the metrics 
of PBT and EPS used in our 
incentive arrangements.

Pairs indicate the success of our 
volume-led growth strategy. Growing 
ecommerce mix, DTC mix and opening 
more own stores are also indirectly 
incentivised within remuneration. 
Progress against these targets, which 
are more profitable channels of 
revenue, will enhance our profitability 
and underlying shareholder value, 
when considered alongside absolute 
revenue growth.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

43

STRATEGIC REPORTFinance review

CONTINUING TO

JON MORTIMORE  
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

INVEST

Revenue reached the key 
milestone of £1bn in the  
year, but overall FY23 was 
challenging due to the supply 
chain issues at the Los 
Angeles distribution centre 
(LA DC) and a softer trading 
performance in America. 
However, we are encouraged 
by strong DTC volume led 
growth in EMEA and Japan 
resulting in good DTC mix 
expansion. 

As a growing brand, we need to continue 
to invest in infrastructure (primarily 
marketing, people and systems) to 
underpin our increasing scale and support 
our long-term growth ambitions. During 
the year, we made targeted investments 
in these key enablers and therefore, as 
revenue growth slowed through the year, 
the Group EBITDA margin structure was 
diluted. We remain committed to continued 
focused investment as we know that 
remains important to support the long 
term growth and resilience of the Group. 

The economic background in FY23 was 
challenging with high inflation, rising 
interest rates and an uncertain geopolitical 
landscape, which weakened consumer 
demand in some of our core markets,  
in particular America. We do not expect  
this to change materially through FY24. 

44

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

REVENUE REACHED 
THE KEY MILESTONE 
OF £1BN IN THE YEAR, 
BUT OVERALL FY23 
WAS CHALLENGING.

JON MORTIMORE 
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

The Group remains in a strong financial 
position and we remain confident in our 
long term growth and cash generation 
potential. In recognition of this, the Board 
has proposed, subject to shareholder 
approval, a final dividend of 4.28p taking 
the total dividend to 5.84p (FY22: 5.50p). 
Given the Board’s confidence in the 
Group’s prospects we will also seek 
approval to undertake a share buyback 
programme of £50m.

HIGHLIGHTS

Revenue

EPS

£1 billion 

12.9p

EBITDA

Cash

£245m

£158m

Profit Before Tax

Dividends

£159m

5.84p

 RESULTS – AT A GLANCE 

Revenue

Ecommerce
Retail

DTC
Wholesale3

Gross margin

EBITDA1

Profit before tax

Earnings per share (p)
Dividend per share (p)

Key statistics

Pairs sold (m)

No. of stores2

DTC mix %

Gross margin %

EBITDA1 margin %

  DTC revenue mix 52%, majority of revenue 
now high margin own channels

  Challenging year: LA DC, weak America trading

  Inventory high, minimal markdown risk and 
will right size by end of FY24

  Need to continue to invest to underpin 
increasing scale and growth ambitions

  Strong balance sheet, dividend maintained, 
initial share buyback announced

FY23
£m

279.0
241.7

520.7
479.6

1,000.3

618.1

245.0

159.4

12.9
5.84

13.8

204

52%

61.8%

24.5%

FY22
£m

262.4
185.6

448.0
460.3

908.3

578.8

263.0

214.3

18.1
5.50

14.1

158

49%

63.7%

29.0%

% change
Actual

% change
CC4

1%
25%

11%
-3%

4%

6%
30%

16%
4%

10%

7%

-7%

-26%

-29%
6%

-2%

29%

+3pts

-1.9pts

-4.5pts

1.  EBITDA – Earnings before exchange gains/losses, finance income/expense, income tax, depreciation, amortisation and impairment.

2.  Own stores on streets and malls operated under arm’s length leasehold arrangements. 

3.  Wholesale revenue including distributor customers.

4.  Constant currency applies the same exchange rate to the FY23 and FY22 non-GBP results, based on FY23 budgeted rates. 

5.  APMs are used as we believe they provide additional useful information on underlying trends.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

45

STRATEGIC REPORTOperating expenses increased by 18% to £373.1m  
(FY22: £315.8m) with the increase explained as follows:

Retail stores1

DC’s1,2 

Marketing3 
Other investments

% Increase
YoY

7%

7%

2%
2%

18%

1.   Increase is mainly the annualisation of prior year new store openings and 

current year new store openings.

2.  Including c.£7.9m of cost in relation to LA DC bottleneck, see below.
3.  Increase of 0.4%pts.

The total costs associated with the LA DC were approximately 
£14.5m and were represented by costs of containers and 
additional late collection from port fees of £6.6m (included in 
COGS), property related costs from three satellite warehouse 
locations of £3.7m and handling costs from implementing a third 
shift, increased volume movements between warehouses and 
under recovery of fixed costs of the main facility (due to operating 
below optimal capacity) of £4.2m. We have now fixed the 
operational issues at the LA DC and we are on track to have the 
expansion and reconfiguration of the New Jersey DC (to allow 
full product availability for all channels from both east and west 
coasts) for AW23 shipments. Learning from the operational issues 
of our LA DC will result in further targeted investments across the 
new financial year and beyond as we improve our operational 
resilience to support the growth and scale of the business.

EBITDA decreased by 7% to £245.0m (FY22: £263.0m) 
resulting in EBITDA margin decline of 4.5%pts to 24.5% 
explained as follows:

Price net inflation

Net new space1 

Marketing spend

DC expansion2

Other investments3 
LA DC bottleneck

% pts
YoY

-0.5

-0.4 

-0.4

-1.0

-0.7
-1.5

-4.5

1.   Incremental opex from new stores net gross margin benefit from space. During 
the year we opened net 46 new stores compared to 23 in the prior year. In the 
year of opening, a store takes approximately six months to break even EBITDA, 
as a result a doubling of store opening increases the cost base faster than 
revenue in the year of the store opening before positive returns are generated, 
broadly in year two.

2.    During the year we invested in much larger 3PL DCs in Netherlands, UK and LA.
3.  Represented by investment in underlying, infrastructure, IT and people.

Finance review continued

Total revenue grew by 10% to £1,000.3m (FY22: £908.3m) 
and was up 4% on a constant currency (CC) basis. Growth 
was led by DTC which was up 16% to £520.7m (FY22: £448.0m), 
up 11% on a CC basis. Volume (measured by pairs) was down 2% 
and reduced revenue by 3%. We made the strategic decision to 
cease supply to distributors in South America and China, and 
excluding these volumes (0.6m pairs), FY23 volume was up 2%. 
This was partly offset by aggregate price increases of 5% and 
DTC mix expansion of 3%pts to 52%. The strong DTC trading 
was driven predominantly by retail which grew 30% (25% CC) 
from both underlying traffic growth and increased revenue from 
investment in new space (both new and maturing stores) with 
ecommerce up 6% (1% CC). Wholesale was up 4% to £479.6m 
(down 3% CC) and was impacted primarily by lower wholesale 
shipments in America and cessation of supply to a China 
distributor prior to the non-renewal of that contract. 

Ecommerce revenue was up 6% to £279.0m (FY22: £262.4m) 
and was up 1% on a CC basis which represented a revenue mix 
of 28%, down 1%pt vs FY22. Growth strengthened through H2 
in EMEA and Japan but was offset by continued soft trading in 
America particularly in H2. During the year, we implemented an 
order management system in EMEA giving us the platform to 
trial, an omnichannel offer of ‘click and collect’, ‘return to store’ 
and ‘in-store inventory lookup’ functionality. This trial is 
underway and, if successful, will be rolled out across the UK and 
subsequently globally. As part of our omnichannel strategy, we 
now plan to begin work on a Customer Data Platform (CDP) in 
FY24 to ensure we understand all our customers no matter how 
they interact with the brand. 

Retail had an impressive year with revenue up 30% to 
£241.7m (FY22: £185.6m), growing 25% on a CC basis. 
Underlying growth was led by continued post Covid-19 traffic 
recovery (although traffic remains meaningfully below FY20 
levels in all our markets) together with increased revenue from 
more retail space. During February, we successfully converted  
14 franchise stores in Japan to own stores and, including these 
converted stores, have opened 52 new stores and closed six 
stores to end the year with 204 own stores. Across the year,  
the average store profitability metric of ‘4-Wall Return on Sales’ 
(which is inclusive of rent) was 37%. 

Wholesale revenue was up 4% to £479.6m (FY22: £460.3m), 
down 3% on a CC basis. Wholesale revenues were impacted by 
the LA DC shipment bottleneck in Q4 (which limited our capacity 
to pick, pack and ship wholesale orders) in America and also in 
China from our decision to not renew the distributor contract, 
resulting in the cessation of shipments to that distributor in H2. 

Gross margin decreased by 1.9%pts to 61.8% (FY22: 63.7%). 
The dilution in margin was mainly due to higher cost of goods 
sold (COGS) which increased by 18% per pair to £27.7 (FY22: 
£23.4) and cost 4.0%pts of margin. Of this increase, underlying 
inflation of 6% cost approximately 2.1%pts of margin, and 
increased costs of containers relating to the LA DC bottleneck 
cost approximately 0.7%pts of margin with the balance mainly 
increased cost of purchasing product denominated in USD for 
EMEA and Japan. Price increases in the year (of 5%) improved 
margins by 1.7%pts. The lower than inflation price increase was 
all due to a lower benefit from price increases in America on the 
overall Group than planned, due to the softer than expected 
performance in the market.

46

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Analysis by half year
Revenue in H2 grew 8% to £581.7m (FY22: £538.4m) (up 2% CC) with EBITDA down 10% to £156.2m (FY22: £174.2m). 

First half

Second half

Ecommerce
Retail

DTC
Wholesale3

Revenue

Gross margin
Opex

EBITDA1

Profit before tax

Key statistics

Pairs sold (m)

No. of stores 
opened2

DTC mix %

Gross margin %

0 
FY23

88.8
91.0

179.8
238.8

418.6

257.8
(169.0)

88.8

57.9

6.3

21

FY22

82.6
65.9

148.5
221.4

369.9

226.6
(137.8)

88.8

61.3

6.3

13

% change 
Actual

% change 
CC

1%
33%

15%
1%

7%

8%
38%

21%
8%

13%

14%
-23%

–

-5%

–

+8

43%

61.6%

40%

+3pts

61.3% +0.3pts

EBITDA1 %

21.2% 24.0% -2.8pts

0 
FY23

190.2
150.7

340.9
240.8

581.7

360.3
(204.1)

156.2

101.5

FY22

179.8
119.7

299.5
238.9

538.4

352.2
(178.0)

174.2

153.0

% change 
Actual

% change 
CC

–
20%

8%
-6%

2%

6%
26%

14%
1%

8%

2%
-15%

-10%

-34%

7.5

7.8

-4%

25

59%

10

56%

+15

+3pts

61.9% 65.4% -3.5pts

26.9%

32.4% -5.5pts

1.  EBITDA – Earnings before exchange gains/losses, finance income/expense, income tax, depreciation, amortisation and impairment.
2.  Net own stores on streets and malls operated under arm’s length leasehold arrangements. 
3.  Wholesale revenue including distributor customers.

The Group typically generates approximately 60% of total revenue in the second half, reflecting the peak Q3 DTC trading period 
and, as a result of the stronger gross margin structure of DTC compared to wholesale, EBITDA margins are higher in the second half 
of the year. In the second half, DTC revenue mix was +3%pts resulting in second half EBITDA margin of 26.9%, 5.7%pts higher than 
first half. H2 EBITDA margin was impacted by 2.4%pts due to costs associated with the LA DC bottleneck. The following table 
explains the year-on-year movement by half:

First half
Second half

FY

H2 v H1

DTC mix

EBITDA1 % margin

FY23

43%
59%

52%

FY22

40%
56%

49%

FY21

34%
50%

43%

FY23

FY22

FY21

21.2% 24.0%
26.9%

27.1%
32.4% 30.0%

24.5% 29.0% 28.8%

+16pts

+16pts

+16pts

+5.7pts

+8.4pts

+2.9pts

1.  EBITDA – Earnings before exchange gains/losses, finance income/expense, income tax, depreciation, amortisation and impairment. 

Exchange 
The profit and loss figures are prepared on an average actual currency basis for the year. These exchange rates are calculated 
monthly and applied to revenue and profits generated in that month, such that the actual figures translated across the year are 
dependent upon monthly trading profiles as well as exchange movement. In addition, all distributor revenues are invoiced in US$.  
To aid comparability of underlying performance, we have also calculated constant currency performance for revenue. This is 
calculated by translating non-UK revenues at the same exchange rate year on year.

We have a natural GBP/Euro vs USD hedge. The UK is our second largest market after the US but only represents 18% of global 
revenues. Due to our balanced global trading footprint with 43% of revenues in America and 27% in Continental Europe, we have a 
strong natural hedge which protects Group EBITDA should the USD strengthen against GBP and Euro. Approximately 95% of COGS 
purchases are paid in USD such that an appreciation of USD compared to GBP and Euro leads to higher purchase costs in EMEA but 
is broadly offset by a corresponding translation benefit from US derived cash flows, such that US revenue and EBITDA is higher and 
funds lower EMEA EBITDA. This hedge effect also operates should the USD depreciate against GBP/Euro. 

To reduce the exposure of exchange movements, the Group has a policy of hedging non-UK currency denominated transactions by 
using derivative financial instruments. The principal derivative instruments used are forward exchange contracts to hedge highly 
probable cash flows in relation to future sales.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

47

STRATEGIC REPORTFinance review continued

The major exchange rates that impact the Group are £/$, £/€ and £/¥. The following table summarises average exchange rates used 
in the year:

H1
H2

FY

FY23

1.22
1.19

1.21

£/$

FY22

1.39
1.34

1.37

%

(12%)
(11%)

(12%)

FY23

1.17
1.14

1.16

£/€

FY22

1.17
1.19

1.18

%

–
(4%)

(2%)

FY23

163
163

163

£/¥

FY22

152
154

153

%

7%
6%

7%

Region analysis
The results can be further analysed by region as follows: 

£m

Revenue:

EBITDA1:

EBITDA1 margin by region:

EMEA

America
APAC

EMEA

America

APAC
Support costs2

EMEA

America
APAC

Total

FY23

FY22

% change 
Actual

% change 
CC

10%

-1%
-1%

4%

443.0

428.2
129.1

1,000.3

146.1

100.1

33.8
(35.0)

398.5

382.7
127.1

908.3

143.8

120.0

32.6
(33.4)

245.0

263.0

11%

12%
2%

10%

2%

-17%

4%
-5%

-7%

33.0%

23.4%
26.2%

36.1%

-3.1pts

31.4% -8.0pts
25.6% +0.6pts

24.5%

29.0% -4.5pts

1.  EBITDA – Earnings before exchange gains/losses, finance income/expense, income tax, depreciation, amortisation and impairment.
2.   Support costs represent Group related support costs not directly attributable to each region’s operations and including Group Finance, Legal, Group HR, Global 

Brand and Design, Directors and other Group only related costs and expenses.

48

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

EMEA
Revenue grew by 11% to £443.0m (FY22: £398.5m) and  
was up 10% on a CC basis. The revenue growth was driven  
by strong DTC trading which grew 20% with very strong retail 
growth and good ecommerce growth. Wholesale was marginally 
up. DTC mix expanded by 4%pts with material increases in 
Germany (up 8%pts), Italy (up 11%pts) and France (up 5%pts). 
The UK grew revenue by 12%.

During the year we opened 13 new stores including three stores 
in Italy, three stores in Spain, two stores in France, two stores in 
Germany, two stores in UK and one store in Ireland. Included in the 
new store openings were three stores that were closed and relocated 
to more prominent positions in Dublin, London and Glasgow. 

EBITDA was up 2% to £146.1m (FY22: £143.8m), with margin 
dilution mainly due to infrastructure investments in an OMS system, 
omnichannel trial and annualisation of prior year investments in 
relation to the conversion of Italy and Spain to subsidiary markets. 
EMEA margin was also negatively impacted by exchange on goods 
purchased in USD. At a Group level this is offset by the natural USD 
hedge we have due to America trading and associated cash flows.

America
Trading was disappointing and was due to a combination  
of a challenging consumer environment coupled with poor 
execution of the DOCS strategy. Revenue grew by 12% to 
£428.2m (FY22: £382.7m) but was down 1% on a CC basis. 
DTC was very strong in Q1 but trading weakened from Q2 and 
through H2. On a CC basis, DTC was up 2% in the year and was 
driven by new retail space. Traffic recovery stalled through H2  
in retail with ecommerce trading variable and soft. Wholesale 
shipments were impacted negatively by the LA DC bottleneck 
(see earlier comments). In the year DTC mix improved 1%pt. 

During the year we opened 14 new stores, double the prior year 
(FY22: seven stores) including four in Texas and three in LA. 

EBITDA was 17% lower at £100.1m (FY22: £120.0m) mainly 
due to costs in relation to the LA DC issue (£14.5m), higher 
marketing spend and annualisation cost of current year new 
store openings being double the prior year.

APAC
Revenue grew by 2% to £129.1m (FY22: £127.1m) and was 
down 1% on a CC basis. Regional performance was impacted  
by lower revenue in China due to our decision to fully implement 
the DOCS strategy in full (focused around Shanghai) and 
therefore the decision not to renew the legacy distribution 
agreement, resulting in a cessation of supply and reduced 
revenue by £8.9m. We have begun to see a recovery in trading  
in China through Q4, which has steadily built momentum, 
however in the financial year this strength did not offset zero 
revenue in Q1 due to the Covid-19 lockdown in Shanghai. 
Excluding the China distributor reduction, revenue grew 9%.

Japan, our third largest market, grew by 13% on a CC basis, driven 
by very strong DTC trading, up 26%, expanding DTC mix by 
7%pts. Through February, we successfully completed the transfer 
of 14 franchise stores to own stores (located in Tokyo and Osaka) 
to end the year with 40 stores. It is estimated Japan will have a 
DTC mix of around 80% following this transfer in FY24. 

EBITDA was up 4% to £33.8m (FY22: £32.6m) and EBITDA 
margin up 0.6%pts driven by good growth from Japan which 
has a superior margin structure to the APAC average. 

Support costs
Group support costs were up 5% to £35.0m (FY22: £33.4m).

Retail development
During the year, we opened 52 (FY22: 24) new own retail stores (via arm’s length leasehold arrangements) and closed six stores as follows:

UK

Germany

France

Italy

Spain
Other

Japan

China

South Korea
Hong Kong

EMEA:

America:

APAC:

Total

31 March  
2022

Opened

Closed

31 March  
2023

35

15

14

3

1
12

80

41

22

2

7
6

37

158

2

2

2

3

3
1

13

14

18

3

4
–

25

52

(4)

–

–

–

–
(1)

(5)

(1)

–

–

–
–

–

33

17

16

6

4
12

88

54

40

5

11
6

62

(6)

204

At the year end the Group also traded from 28 (FY22: 37) concession counters in department stores in South Korea and a further  
119 mono-branded franchise stores around the world, with 55 in China (FY22: 87), 16 in Japan (FY22: 31), 20 across Australia and 
New Zealand (FY22: 18), 21 across other South East Asia countries and the balance in the Nordics and Canada.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

49

STRATEGIC REPORTFinance review continued

Leases
The Group operates its own retail stores via arm’s length 
leasehold arrangements (apart from one property which is 
freehold) and also leases one warehouse (in the UK) and its 
offices. At 31 March 2023, the average lease term remaining 
across all property related leases to end of term was 5.1 years 
(FY22: 5.1 years), and only 3.0 years (FY22: 3.4 years) to tenant 
only break. The annual rent commitment was £34.3m (FY22: 
£24.9m) and the undiscounted total lease commitment was 
£173.5m (FY22: £127.3m), reducing to £102.8m (FY22: £84.6m) 
to lease break. 

At 31 March 2023 the Group has right-of-use (ROU) assets of £144.1m 
(FY22: £105.5m) and lease liabilities of £152.4m (FY22: £112.9m). 

As described in the Viability and Going Concern statements, we 
reviewed all stores for impairment and concluded four stores 
had future cash flows lower than the ROU asset and accordingly 
expensed a £3.9m (including £0.6m impairment charge for 
property, plant and equipment) impairment charge. The majority 
of the charge relates to three stores in America where footfall 
recovery, in their locality, was weak.

Earnings
The following table analyses the results for the year from 
EBITDA to profit before tax.

£m

EBITDA1

Depreciation and amortisation

Impairment 

Exchange (losses)/gains 

Net interest cost on bank debt
Amortisation of loan issue costs/interest 
on lease liabilities

Profit before tax
Tax

Earnings

FY23

FY22

245.0

(54.2)

(3.9)

(10.7)

(10.8)

(6.0)

159.4
(30.5)

128.9

263.0

(36.7)

(0.2)

3.2

(10.3)

(4.7)

214.3
(33.1)

181.2

1.   EBITDA – Earnings before exchange gains/losses, finance income/expense, 

income tax, depreciation, amortisation and impairment.

The Group’s net interest cost on bank debt was £10.8m 
(FY22: £10.3m). The increase of £0.5m compared to the prior 
year was mainly higher interest costs on bank debt of £2.3m 
with average interest rate of 3.6% (FY22: 2.8%). This was offset 
by a £1.8m gain on higher interest receivables from cash 
investments. In addition, we incurred higher interest costs on 
lease liabilities of £1.3m due to new stores opened in the year.

The tax charge was £30.5m (FY22: £33.1m) with an effective 
tax rate of 19.1% which is slightly higher than the UK corporate 
tax rate of 19.0%, due mainly to non-UK tax rates and deferred 
tax on temporary differences. 

UK effective tax rate

Non-UK tax rate differences
Deferred tax on temporary differences

Before prior year adjustments
Prior year adjustments

Reported tax rate

FY23

FY22

19.0%

19.0%

+0.5% +0.5pts
–
-0.4%

19.1%
–

19.1%

19.5%
-4.1%

15.4%

We make a significant contribution to the public finances in all 
our markets and take seriously our responsibility to the wider 
society through the payment of taxes and other government 
revenue-raising mechanisms. In FY23, this totalled £171.1m (FY22: 
£138.4m), an increase of 24%.

Earnings per share was 12.9p (FY22: 18.1p). The total number 
of diluted shares is detailed in note 10 in the financial 
statements. The following table summarises these EPS figures:

Earnings per share Basic

Diluted

 FY23  
pence

12.9

12.9

 FY22  
pence

18.1

18.1

%  
change

-29%

-29%

EPS and diluted EPS for the current and prior year are 
presented as the same amount due to the minimal dilutive 
impact of share schemes on the total diluted share number.

Profit before tax declined by 26% to £159.4m (FY22: £214.3m) 
with profit after tax of £128.9m (FY22: £181.2m). 

Operating cash flow2 
Operating cash flow2 is summarised below:

Depreciation and amortisation charged in the year was £54.2m, 
compared to £36.7m in FY22, and is analysed as follows:

£m

EBITDA1

Increase in inventories

Increase in debtors

(Increase)/decrease in creditors

Total change in net working capital
Capital expenditure

Operating cash flow2

Operating cash conversion2

FY23

 FY22

245.0

263.0

(133.2)

(6.6)

(5.6)

(145.4)
(51.2)

48.4

20%

(18.3)

(23.3)

11.7

(29.9)
(25.0)

208.1

79%

1.   EBITDA – Earnings before exchange gains/losses, finance income/expense, 

income tax, depreciation, amortisation and impairment.

2.   Alternative Performance Measures as defined in the Glossary on pages 227 

and 228.

£m

Amortisation of intangibles1
Depreciation of plant and equipment2

Depreciation of right-of-use assets3

Total

FY23

8.4
13.6

22.0
32.2

54.2

FY22

4.7
9.5

14.2
22.5

36.7

1.  Mainly represented by IT related spend with the average term of 3 to 7 years.
2.  Mainly represented by new store fit out costs with the average term of 5 years. 
3.   Mainly represented by depreciation of IFRS 16 capitalised leases with the average 
term of 5.1 years and 229 properties (FY22: 7.5 years and 182 properties). 

In the year we recognised an exchange loss of £10.7m (FY22: 
gain £3.2m) which was predominantly due to the revaluation  
of Euro denominated bank debt and working capital.

50

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Operating cash inflow was £48.4m (FY22: £208.1m) 
representing a cash conversion of EBITDA of 20% (FY22: 79%). 

Net interest paid was £5.6m, lower than FY22 by £5.2m due  
to the timing of interest payments on the debt partially offset  
by an increase in interest received from cash investments. 

The principal driver of lower cash generation was increased 
inventory due in part to our decision to increase inventory ahead 
of peak trading to improve availability, primarily America and 
Japan (which were both weak in the prior year due to Covid-19 
related supply restrictions), and was compounded by softer than 
planned DTC trading in America and the LA DC issue which 
impacted wholesale shipments. The vast majority of the inventory 
is continuity in nature with minimal markdown risk, and we plan to 
right size inventory through FY24 by purchasing a lower amount 
than we plan to sell, such that inventory is broadly right sized by 
March 2024 year end date. The impact of this will be a material 
cash inflow through FY24, predominantly in H2. 

Trade debtor days increased from 42 days to 52 days and was 
due primarily to customer mix with a higher proportion of EMEA 
debtors (with payment terms closer to 60 days) than America 
(with payment terms closer to 30 days).

Capex was £51.2m (FY22: £25.0m) and represented 5.1% of 
revenue (FY22: 2.8%) and was higher than the prior year due 
mainly to retail store openings (opened 52 in FY23 vs 24 in 
FY22), racking fit out costs in two new distribution centres and 
IT/Tech spend as follows: 

£m

Retail stores 

Supply chain 
IT/Tech 

FY23

18.9

19.2
13.1

51.2

 FY22

8.7

6.3
10.0

25.0

Net cash flow after interest
Net cash flow after interest costs is summarised below:

£m

Operating cash flow1

Net interest paid

Investment

Payment of lease liabilities

Taxation

Exceptional items2

Dividends paid

Net cash (outflow)/inflow

Opening cash

Net cash exchange translation

 FY23

48.4

(5.6)

(1.0)

(33.9)

(22.3)

–

(58.4)

(72.8)

228.0

2.3

 FY22

208.1

(10.8)

–

(24.0)

(41.2)

(7.5)

(12.2)

112.4

113.6

2.0

Closing cash

157.5

228.0

1.   Operating cash flow and free cash flow are Alternative Performance Measures 

as defined in the Glossary on pages 227 and 228.

2.  All exceptional items paid were in relation to the IPO and refinancing event.

On 16 January 2023, as part of our sustainability strategy, 
we made an investment of £1.0m in the share capital of 
Generation Phoenix Ltd (GP), a company that specialises in 
recycled leather products using part processed offcuts. The 
investment is equivalent to 3.35% of the share capital of GP  
and will help drive our sustainability strategy. 

The increase in lease liabilities was due mainly to the 
increased number of retail stores opened in the year under  
lease arrangements. 

Tax paid was £22.3m compared to £41.2m in FY22 due to  
lower taxable profits and timing of payments made on account 
in multiple jurisdictions.

At 31 March 2023 the Group had cash of £157.5m compared 
to cash at 31 March 2022 of £228.0m. 

Funding and leverage
The Group is funded by cash, bank debt and equity. Further 
details on the capital structure and debt are given in note 18 of 
the financial statements. The Group’s bank debt is denominated 
in Euros to reflect the excess Euros the Group generates from 
trading in Continental Europe to fund interest costs (with USD 
revenue generated broadly funding USD purchase of inventory 
and GBP generated broadly funding GBP related costs). The 
bank debt falls due for repayment in full on 2 February 2026. 
The Group also has a revolving credit facility of £200.0m which 
also expires on 2 February 2026, with £3.7m utilised in relation 
to certain guarantee arrangements. Bank debt at the 31 March 
2023 was £296.8m compared to £285.6m at 31 March 2022 with 
the difference all exchange of £/€ at the Balance Sheet date 
(£1: €1.14 at 31 March 23 compared to £1: €1.19 at 31 March 22). 

The Group financing arrangements have a total net leverage 
covenant test every six months. The total net leverage test is 
calculated with a full 12 months of EBITDA1 and net debt being 
inclusive of IFRS 16 lease liabilities at the Balance Sheet date. 

At 31 March 2023 the Group had total net leverage of 1.2 times 
(31 March 2022: 0.7x) giving us significant headroom against  
our covenant test. If this test was calculated using average cash 
throughout the year (reflecting the Group’s intra-year cash 
swing), average gearing would be approximately 1.1x.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

51

STRATEGIC REPORTFinance review continued

Pensions 
Dr Martens Airwair Group Limited and Airwair International 
Limited (subsidiaries of the Group) operate a defined benefit 
pension scheme in the UK, which was closed to new members  
in 2002, and provides both pensions in retirement and death 
benefits to members. At the most recent triennial valuation date 
(June 2022), on an actuarial funding valuation basis as agreed 
with the Trustees, the scheme had assets with a value of £55.4m 
and estimated future liabilities (technical provisions) of £48.5m, 
resulting in a surplus of £6.9m.

A detailed description of all pension commitments, including  
the IAS 19 accounting valuation (which is prepared on a different 
valuation basis of liabilities to the actuarial funding valuation 
basis, the latter being used to agree with the pension trustees 
whether cash contributions are or are not required to be made 
and the former being purely for accounting purposes), is given  
in note 29 to the accounts. The surplus under the scheme is not 
recognised as an asset benefitting the Group on the Balance 
Sheet on the basis that the Group is unlikely to derive any 
economic benefits from that surplus. At 31 March 2023, the 
scheme has assets of £49.5m (31 March 2022: £68.6m).

The Group also operates a defined contribution scheme for  
its employees and during the year the Group contributions to 
this scheme were £4.7m (FY22: £6.0m). At 31 March 2023,  
this scheme had assets of £23.3m (31 March 2022: £20.4m).

Balance Sheet
The Balance Sheet is summarised below:

£m

Freehold property

Right-of-use assets

Other fixed assets

Inventory

Debtors

Creditors2

Working capital
Other1

Operating net assets

Goodwill

Cash

Bank debt

Unamortised bank fees
Lease liabilities

Net assets

31 March 
2023

31 March  
2022

7.4

144.1

78.8

257.8

92.2

6.1

105.5

53.6

123.0

86.0

(133.7)

(134.7)

216.3
5.2

451.8

240.7

157.5

74.3
13.8

253.3

240.7

228.0

(296.8)

(285.6)

3.4
(152.4)

4.7
(112.9)

404.2

328.2

1.   Other includes investments, deferred tax assets, income tax assets and provisions.
2.  Includes bank interest of £6.0m (FY22: £0.8m).

Net financing is summarised below:

£m

Bank debt
Cash

Net bank debt
Lease liabilities

Net financing

31 March 
2023

(296.8)
157.5

(139.3)
(152.4)

31 March  
2022

(285.6)
228.0

(57.6)
(112.9)

(291.7)

(170.5)

Inventory
Given the high proportion of continuity products we sell and 
strong product margin structure, we have minimal mark down 
risk below cost. Inventory levels are higher than optimal at 
March 2023 (and reflected our decisions to restock in America 
and Japan due to Covid-19 related supply constraints in prior 
year, which meant inventory levels were too low at March 2022). 
We plan to right size inventory through the year and have a 
more optimal level of inventory to support demand by March 
2024. Due to the lead time lengths, the majority of the inventory 
right sizing will be achieved through H2 as we purchase less 
than we plan to sell. 

This is summarised below:

Inventory (£m)

Turn (x)1

Weeks cover2

31 March 
2023

257.8

1.5x

35

31 March  
2022

123.0

2.7x

19

1.  Calculated as historic LTM COGs divided by inventory.
2.  Calculated as 52 weeks divided by stock turn.

Equity of £404.2m can be analysed as follows:

£m

Share capital

Hedging reserve

Merger reserve

Non-UK translation reserve
Retained earnings

Equity

31 March 
2023

31 March  
2022

10.0

(0.5)

10.0

(0.1)

(1,400.0)

(1,400.0)

12.5
1,782.2

404.2

7.0
1,711.3

328.2

Dr. Martens plc (the Company) has distributable reserves of £1,377.5m.

52

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Returns to shareholders
Our capital allocation philosophy guides our view of returns to 
shareholders and usage of excess cash. The first priority for 
investment is into the business and we will continue to invest in  
a targeted manner to support long term growth and resilience  
of the Group. This is mainly represented by investment into 
marketing, logistics, people and systems. Beyond this, our 
priority is to return excess cash to shareholders, through a 
regular dividend and, when possible, further returns. 

The Board recognises, and is confident, that the strong year end 
cash position, and significant cash generation expected during 
H2 of FY24 from purchasing less inventory than we plan to sell, 
coupled with future growth, will normalise both the dividend 
payout ratio towards 35% of earnings and the excess cash ratio 
(represented by average leverage) towards less than one times 
over time. As a result, the Board has approved, and the Group 
has proposed, the following distributions which are both subject 
to approval at the AGM on 13 July 2023.

(i) Dividends
A final dividend of 4.28p per share (FY22: 4.28p). This will 
bring the total interim and final dividend for FY23 to £58.4m 
(5.84p), and represents an increase of 6% vs FY22, with a 
payout ratio of 45%. The dividend will be paid to shareholders 
on the register as at 9 June 2023 with payment on 18 July 2023.

£m

Earnings

Interim dividend (declared and paid): 
1.56p (FY22: 1.22p)
Final dividend (proposed): 4.28p 
(FY22: 4.28p)

Total dividend (paid and proposed): 
5.84p (FY22: 5.50p)

Payout ratio %

FY23

128.9

FY22

181.2

15.6

12.2

42.8

42.8

58.4

45%

55.0

30%

(ii) Share buyback
A share buyback programme of up to £50.0m, to commence 
following shareholder approval. 

JON MORTIMORE 
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER 
31 May 2023

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

53

STRATEGIC REPORTRisk management and our principal risks

EFFECTIVE RISK

MANAGEMENT

EFFECTIVE RISK MANAGEMENT DRIVES  
BETTER COMMERCIAL DECISIONS, PROTECTS  
OUR ASSETS, REPUTATION AND BRAND,  
AND SUPPORTS DELIVERY OF OUR STRATEGY  
AND SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS GROWTH.

MATT KETTEL 
HEAD OF INTERNAL AUDIT AND RISK

Risk management approach
Our approach to risk is an integrated  
part of the overall governance and 
management of the Group, as set out in 
more detail in the Governance section, 
particularly the Audit and Risk Committee 
report on page 151. Throughout FY23, we 
have continued to mature and embed our 
risk management process, which is set 
out in more detail below.

In setting our strategic priorities, we  
take into account horizon scanning and 
external thinking and these insights also 
feed into how risk is identified, assessed 
and managed, including for emerging 
risks. We consider risks over different 
timeframes, which also influences 
response and priority for undertaking 
further analysis and potential action.

The Group follows the ‘three lines model’ 
to risk, internal control and assurance. 
Operational management and our people 
are the Company’s first line, as they are 
primarily responsible for the direct 
management of risk and ensuring that 
appropriate mitigating controls are in place 
and operating effectively. The second line 
is formed by the internal compliance and 
oversight functions such as Finance, Legal 
and Compliance, Technology and Human 
Resources. The third line includes internal 
and external audit, reporting to the Audit 
and Risk Committee.

The diagram opposite shows the key 
elements of the Dr. Martens approach to 
risk governance, including the ‘bottom-up’ 
and ‘top-down’ aspects to the approach. 
In identifying risks, we consider four 
broad categories of risk, being strategic, 
operational, financial, and legal and 
compliance.

•  Analysis of appropriate insurance cover 

against risk appetite

•  Financial controls defined and built into 
key systems, including developing these 
to meet potential future requirements 
such as ‘UK SOx’

•  Compliance policies, guidance and training

Risk appetite
We recognise the need for informed 
risk-taking in order to deliver sustainable 
and profitable business growth, and our 
risk appetite varies across different 
principal risks, which are set out on pages 
56 to 59. Our risk appetite across 
different areas informs the Group’s risk 
and control framework and day-to-day 
control activities. 

Examples of these activities include:

•  Adherence to delegation of authority, 
including commercial, financial and 
legal decisions and approvals

•  Ongoing business performance 

monitoring, including monthly reviews

•  Strategy and planning (annual and 

five-year plans)

•  Development of contingency plans  
and consideration of best and worst 
case scenarios

•  Identification and ongoing monitoring 
of risk through Group and Regional  
Risk Committees

Principal risks
The Board confirms that it has carried  
out a robust assessment of the 
Company’s emerging and principal risks. 
Through the Board and Audit and Risk 
Committee reviews, no new principal  
risks were identified. 

Set out below is the Board’s view of  
the principal risks currently facing the 
Company, along with examples of how 
they might impact us and an explanation 
of how the risks are managed or 
mitigated. We also indicate the link to  
our strategic priorities on pages 30 to 39. 
An explanation of how the Company 
manages financial risks is also provided  
in note 22 to the financial statements.

We recognise that the Group is exposed to 
risks wider than those listed. However, we 
have disclosed those that we believe are 
likely to have the greatest impact on the 
Group delivering its strategic objectives.

54

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

RISK GOVERNANCE AND OVERSIGHT KEY COMPONENTS

BOARD

GROUP  
LEADERSHIP

D

I

R

E

C

T

I

O

N

A

N

D

O

V

E

R

S

I

G

H

T

REGIONS, FUNCTIONS  
AND PROJECTS

BOARD
•  Board has oversight responsibility for ensuring risks 

are identified and managed

•  Board’s robust assessment of principal risks, 

considering emerging risks and overall risk appetite

•  Audit and Risk Committee supports Board on risk 
and assurance, including ‘risk deep dives’, and 
receives independent reports from third line 
assurance activities – external and internal audit

GROUP LEADERSHIP
•  Operational Risk Committee (ORC) oversees Group 
Risk Register. Chaired by Head of Risk and Internal 
Audit, with membership including majority of GLT
•  Crisis Management Framework with specific Cyber 

Incident Management playbook

•  Group leadership has executive ownership of key risk 

areas and leads the key first and second line 
activities, including Finance, Legal and Compliance, 
Technology and Human Resources

REGIONS, FUNCTIONS AND PROJECTS
•  Regional Risk Committees (America, APAC and 

EMEA) with reporting into ORC

•  IT and Cyber Risk Registers with reporting and 

escalation to Group Risk Register

•  IT project management office coordinates and 

reports on risk at portfolio level and individual projects

•  Enterprise project management office set up
•  Working groups established with focus on specific 

risk areas, including counter-fraud, third-party risk, 
policies and training

N

ATIO

L
A
C
S
D E
N
G A
TIN
R
O
P
E
R

 CLIMATE RISK 

In FY22, we worked with external advisers 
to go through a rigorous process to identify 
the risks posed to Dr. Martens by climate 
change. In FY23, we built on that analysis 
and our second report in line with the 
guidance from the Task Force on Climate-
related Financial Disclosures (TCFD) is set 
out on pages 99 to 107. Having carried out 
this analysis, which is summarised below 
and in more detail on page 106 in the Risk 
management section of our TCFD report, we 
continue to consider climate risk as a key 
component of the social and environmental 
risk, rather than a separate principal risk. 
We also recognise that climate change is 
one of the drivers of other principal risks, 
including brand and product, supply chain, 
and legal and compliance. 

The approach to identifying and assessing 
climate risks and opportunities is broadly 
consistent with the way we identify and 
prioritise all risks, considering impact and 
likelihood of a number of potential risk 

events. However, we recognise that for 
climate risks the timeframes are often 
longer than many other risks. Therefore, as 
well as estimated likelihood of a risk event 
occurring, we considered the velocity of 
risks, i.e. the potential timeframe for when a 
risk event might occur. We used timeframes 
ranging from current through to longer 
term, which we considered as greater than 
ten years. Our priority climate-related risks 
and opportunities are set out in more detail 
in our TCFD section. 

We have made progress in further 
understanding and modelling the potential 
impact of climate risks on our business, 
strategy and financial planning. Our TCFD 
disclosures include more information than 
last year on the details of the most 
significant climate risks and opportunities. 
However, we recognise that, like many 
companies, we still have more work to do  
in this area, taking advantage of evolving 
good practice and guidance from other 

companies, advisers and regulators. In 
particular, we plan to build on the initial risk 
analysis and more closely link it to our core 
assumptions used to model future business 
performance, including the drivers of 
revenues and costs. 

Many mitigations are already built into how 
we create value and our business operating 
model. In FY23, we successfully launched our 
recommerce trial, Dr. Martens first repair and 
resale business model in the UK, and are now 
exploring options to launch this in the US. We 
are also developing a new authorised repair 
service which we are planning to offer for the 
first time in FY24. See page 83 for more 
details. Our recently announced partnership 
with Gen Phoenix, a leading producer of 
recycled leather at scale, will support our 
product innovation and industry-wide 
adoption of sustainable materials. 

  READ MORE P99 to 107 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

55

STRATEGIC REPORT 
 
Risk management and our principal risks continued

CHANGES TO PRINCIPAL RISKS 
IN THE YEAR

BRAND AND PRODUCT

Although we did not identify any new principal 
risks in the year, there are three risks where the 
potential impact has increased. We have indicated 
the trend for each risk, based on the changes from 
prior year, as well as looking forwards to future 
potential changes in risk.

We fail to develop and protect  
our brand and product

PEOPLE, CULTURE AND CHANGE
The people, culture and change risk has been impacted by 
the continuing growth across the business, which has 
driven the need for ongoing business transformation and 
change. The challenge has been balancing the prioritisation 
of key projects and efficient utilisation of resources, without 
impacting ‘business as usual’. While there have been 
significant positive improvements, including the transition 
to a new technology operating model to improve 
prioritisation, there remains the recognition of the need 
for an increased focus on talent development, including 
for key capabilities and critical roles.

SUPPLY CHAIN
The supply chain risk and activities have been impacted  
by Covid-19 related constraints, only normalising  
in Q2/Q3. In addition, the Los Angeles distribution centre 
disruption and capacity challenges impacted the ability  
to fulfil orders and resulted in increased operating costs. 

FINANCIAL
The financial risk has been impacted by the external 
macro-economic uncertainty and financial trading 
performance, which have affected the share price.  
In addition, inflationary pressures have the potential to 
reduce consumer demand and spend, with cost inflation 
affecting commodity prices. Although there have been 
positive improvements, including a review of pricing 
strategy showing headroom, the heightened external 
pressures have raised the profile of this risk.

Change from FY22

No change

Impacts of the risk
•  Brand is no longer perceived as relevant with consumers
•  Negative media or social media coverage damages  

our brand

•  Counterfeit or lookalike product impacts our sales  

and brand

•  Serious quality or product regulatory compliance issues 
resulting in product recall or compensation to consumers

Examples of how we manage the risk
•  Research on consumer insights and trends
•  Marketing activity to maximise brand value and exposure
•  Product innovation to stay one step ahead and alleviate 

any counterfeit risk

•  Monitoring and responding to social media and customer 

service issues

•  Intellectual property expertise with robust  

enforcement strategy

•  Robust quality and testing process on product

Risk appetite
•  Balanced risk appetite in order to innovate, deliver our 

strategy and stay relevant with consumers

•  Supported by processes to avoid or mitigate any brand 
and intellectual property protection risk, where possible

Where you can find more about this risk and how we 
manage it
•  Our brand and products on page 6
•  How we create value on pages 20 and 21
•  Stakeholder engagement – Consumers on page 26
•  Delivering against our strategy on pages 30 and 31
•  Sustainability – Product on pages 76 to 83

56

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

  
Links to strategy

 Direct-to-consumer first 

 Organisational and operational excellence 

 Consumer connection 

 Support brand expansion with B2B

SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL

PEOPLE, CULTURE 
AND CHANGE

Our sustainability strategy and programme fail to 
deliver or do not meet stakeholder expectations

We fail to attract, retain and develop talent and 
capabilities required to deliver business strategy

Change from FY22

No change

Change from FY22

Slight increase

Impacts of the risk
•  Non-compliance or reputational concerns in supply chain 

potentially damage the brand resulting in lower sales
•  Our product and business activities fail to keep pace  

with consumers’ social and environmental expectations, 
resulting in lower sales growth

•  Emerging risk: Climate change impacts upon our 
business or as a result of our business operations

Impacts of the risk
•  Failure to attract, retain and develop talent and 
capabilities required to deliver business strategy

•  Safety and security issues affecting our staff or customers
•  Level of ongoing transformation and change means that 
programmes and projects are not successful or business 
as usual activities are negatively impacted

•  Culture does not successfully evolve as business grows

Examples of how we manage the risk
•  Wide range of stakeholders involved in developing and 

Examples of how we manage the risk
•  Diversity, equity and inclusion programme with  

delivering sustainability programme

dedicated resources

•  External advice to ensure we adopt good practices
•  External assurance over key third-party manufacturers, 

•  Regular engagement employee surveys with action plans
•  All employee share scheme launched to allow employees 

including human rights standards, modern slavery 
compliance and our Supplier Code of Conduct

•  Environmental certification for Made In England factory
•  Performing an assessment of climate risks and impact

Risk appetite
•  Low risk appetite considering consumer expectations 

and climate change impacts

•  Appreciation of the long-term nature of some 
sustainability risks and the level of uncertainty 
associated with their occurrence and impact 

Where you can find more about this risk and how we 
manage it
•  Stakeholder engagement on pages 22 to 29
•  Sustainability section on pages 62 to 98

to share in the future success of the business

•  Talent management process
•  Leadership framework assessment
•  Senior leadership monitoring and oversight of all 

significant change programmes

Risk appetite
•  Overall balanced risk appetite in order to grow, innovate 

and respond to new challenges and opportunities 

•  Very low risk appetite for people safety risks

Where you can find more about this risk and how we 
manage it
•  Stakeholder engagement – Our People on page 25
•  Sustainability – People on pages 84 to 93

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

57

STRATEGIC REPORTRisk management and our principal risks continued

SUPPLY CHAIN

INFORMATION AND  
CYBER SECURITY

We fail to deliver the supply chain activity required 
to support business growth and consumer demand

We fail to maintain the confidentiality, integrity 
and availability of key information

Change from FY22

Slight increase

Change from FY22

No change

Impacts of the risk
•  Capacity restrictions in manufacturing and distribution
•  Global trade restrictions and duties
•  Logistics and shipping disruption causing an increase  

in operating costs

•  Raw material prices increase our cost of production

Examples of how we manage the risk
•  Diversified supplier base across different markets
•  Effective partnerships with third parties
•  Rigorous forward planning including contingency  

for unexpected events

•  External assurance over key third-party suppliers
•  Warehousing and distribution capacity adjusted  

to meet forecast demand

Risk appetite
•  Moderate risk appetite for this risk, as a stable and 

resilient supply chain is necessary for delivering our  
core products to meet consumer demand and support 
business growth 

•  The risk is mitigated through a geographic spread  
of factories and management of stock. However, it  
is recognised there is a balance between the investment 
required to reduce risk and the amount of risk and 
uncertainty we accept due to external factors that are 
largely outside our direct control

Where you can find more about this risk and how we 
manage it
•  Stakeholder engagement – Suppliers on page 28
•  Sustainability – Responsibly managing our supply chain 

on pages 94 and 95

Impacts of the risk
•  Ecommerce or other key IT systems are target of  

cyber hacking or prolonged disruption with potential  
to negatively impact revenue and operating costs

•  Theft or loss of sensitive Company, customer or 

employee data, resulting in negative reputational impact 
and potential fines and legal costs

•  New ways of working, including remote/hybrid working, 

potentially increase risk of loss of data

Examples of how we manage the risk
•  Dedicated Information and Cyber Security team
•  Continued execution of the Cyber Security programme
•  Active monitoring of core business applications and 

end-user devices

•  Cyber risk maturity measured against recognised 

framework (NIST – National Institute of Standards and 
Technology) with targets to drive continuous improvement
•  Cyber incident management process through playbooks 

and external partners

•  Supplier information security reviews through vendor 

risk assessments

Risk appetite
•  Low risk appetite for this risk as we seek to minimise  

the likelihood and impact of any business-critical 
technology failure 

•  It is recognised that there is a cost-benefit trade-off in 

mitigating cyber threats and we will therefore accept a low 
level of risk rather than attempting to eliminate all risk 

•  Very low risk appetite for data privacy, as we aim to 
protect our data robustly and in line with privacy 
regulations and recognised practice

Where you can find more about this risk and how we 
manage it
•  Our strategy – Organisational and operational excellence 

on pages 34 and 35

58

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Links to strategy

 Direct-to-consumer first 

 Organisational and operational excellence 

 Consumer connection 

 Support brand expansion with B2B

FINANCIAL

LEGAL AND COMPLIANCE

We fail to adequately forecast and manage financial 
risks, including meeting external reporting requirements

We fail to comply with key laws and regulations

Change from FY22

Slight increase

Change from FY22

No change

Impacts of the risk
•  Cost inflation negatively impacts commodity prices
•  Inflationary pressures impact consumer demand and profitability
•  Foreign exchange movements are unfavourable and 

impact liquidity and cash flow

•  Interest rate risk on external bank debt with a potential 

risk of breach of covenants

•  Potential increase in the risk of internal or external fraud
•  Failure to meet forecasts and financial guidance to the market 
can negatively impact share price and investor confidence
•  Non-compliance with financial reporting requirements 

and internal control attestations

Impacts of the risk
•  Potential increase in the risk of bribery or corruption
•  Trade sanctions non-compliance
•  Anti-competitive behaviour
•  Data protection non-compliance
•  Potential fines and reputational damage

Examples of how we manage the risk
•  Positive tone from the top cascaded down to teams  

and employees

•  Code of conduct (the DOCtrine) shared with all employees
•  Policies, procedures and mandatory training covering key 

compliance risks

Examples of how we manage the risk
•  Robust financial management framework with detailed 

•  Dedicated Compliance function
•  Data privacy programme including compliance with 

reporting and forecasting

applicable local laws

•  Detailed cash flow forecasting including monitoring 

compliance with covenants

•  Single finance ERP system across majority of markets
•  Selected hedging of foreign exchange
•  Continued focus on internal controls over financial 

reporting in the internal audit plan

•  Fraud risk assessment with accountability for key fraud risks

Risk appetite
•  Low risk appetite for this risk and proactively manage it 
through a range of methods, including a robust financial 
management framework

•  The potential negative impact on the business from a 

financial failure reinforces our commitment to implement 
and maintain strong financial reporting and internal 
control measures across the business

Where you can find more about this risk and how we 
manage it
•  Finance review on pages 44 to 53
•  Audit and Risk Committee report on pages 151 to 158
•  Note 22 (Financial instruments) to the financial 

statements on pages 201 to 204

Risk appetite
•  Very low risk appetite for compliance risks and we are 
committed to ethical and lawful behaviour in all we do 
•  Colleagues and business partners who support us or  

act on our behalf are expected to take appropriate steps 
to comply with applicable laws and regulations 
•  Personal information and privacy is respected and 
valued, as we seek to comply with laws, rules and 
regulatory requirements across all jurisdictions in which 
we operate 

•  Low risk appetite for legal risks, recognising there will  
be times when we take some commercial legal risks, 
provided we have appropriate internal legal approval, 
supplemented with external advice where required 

Where you can find more about this risk and how we 
manage it
•  Section 172 Statement on Meeting the needs of our 

stakeholders on pages 22 to 29

•  Our Governance framework on pages 109 to 129
•  Audit and Risk Committee report on pages 151 to 158

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

59

STRATEGIC REPORTViability assessment and going concern

VIABILITY STATEMENT
In accordance with the UK Corporate 
Governance Code, the Directors have 
assessed the viability of the Group over a 
three-year period to 31 March 2026, which 
is longer than the 16-month period from 
the date of signing the consolidated 
financial statements (‘the going concern 
period’). As part of this assessment, the 
Directors have analysed the prospects of 
the Group by reference to its current 
financial position, recent trading trends 
and momentum, detailed trading and cash 
flow forecasts including forecast liquidity 
and covenant compliance, strategy, 
economic model and the principal risks 
and mitigating factors described on pages 
56 to 59. 

The Directors also considered the Group 
funding arrangements at 31 March 2023 
with cash of £157.5m, term loan of 
£296.8m, as well as available undrawn 
facilities of £196.3m. A bullet debt 
repayment of the term loan of £296.8m  
is not due until 2 February 2026.

The Group is operationally and financially 
strong and has a long track record of 
consistently generating profits and cash, 
which is expected to continue over the 
short and long term. Over the last three 
years, the Group has a CAGR% revenue 
growth of 14% to £1,000.3m, and 22% 
CAGR% over five years, with higher 
margin DTC channels growing three year 
CAGR of 25% (27% five year CAGR). In 
the current financial year, EBITDA was 
£245.0m. The principal measure of future 
strength is in relation to our brand. In our 
annual brand survey, the data indicated 
the brand is stronger than ever, with all key 
metrics either in line with or ahead of last 
year. These measures, taken together with 
our economic strength, give confidence in 
our future growth prospects. 

 TRADING OUTLOOK 

FY23 experienced a steady 
deterioration in the global macro 
economy with differing impacts on 
several of our core markets. With the 
exception of China (which was closed 
due to strict Covid-19 related lockdowns 
during Q1) all our core markets had a 
strong Q1 trading period. However, 
from Q2 a more negative consumer 
sentiment, from weaker macro 
economic themes, began to emerge. 

In EMEA, the war in Ukraine, expectation 
of higher inflation and significantly 
higher energy costs were compounded 
by increasing interest rates and resulted 
in variable DTC trading through the 
autumn. From November however, in 
part due to the benefit of a weaker 
base (from Covid-19 related trading 
restrictions in prior year), we 
experienced very strong DTC trading 
with Q4 growth, accelerating compared 
to Q3 growth. This momentum has 
continued into Q1 to date.

In America, aggressively increasing 
interest rates and higher ‘gas’ prices 
dampened consumer spending with the 
sale of boots also negatively impacted 
by unseasonably warm weather through 
the autumn and resulted in variable and 
soft DTC trading from September to the 
end of the financial year. This soft DTC 
trading is expected to continue through 
H1 FY24. Disappointingly, H2 was also 
significantly impacted by the LA DC 
supply bottleneck, which resulted in 
higher costs and slower wholesale 
shipments than planned. The operational 
issues at LA DC have now been resolved 
and the planned work to expand 
capability and capacity to ship to all 
channels from our New Jersey DC is on 
track, to be completed for the AW23 
season. This will mean we will have the 
ability to ship to all channels from both 
west and east coast. Following a review 
to right size forward cover inventory, 
we now expect to maintain the three 
satellite warehouses in LA for the full 
financial year, with inventory right sized 
through H2 by buying less than we 
plan to sell. However, there will be a 
cost of renting the DCs to store the 
inventory of c.£15m which is included 
in the going concern period.

In APAC, Japan slowly recovered  
from Covid-19 through the year with 
the requirement to wear masks inside 
finally ending in March 2023. We 
expect Japan to steadily continue  
to recover from Covid-19 related 
restrictions through the new financial 
year. China and Hong Kong have very 

recently seen strong growth as 
Covid-19 restrictions were lifted at the 
turn of the calendar year and we 
expect to see these markets recover 
through the new financial year, albeit 
from a very small base. 

The Directors remain vigilant and 
continue to monitor a number of 
consumer confidence metrics across 
all our core markets. While global 
expectations are for inflation to slowly fall 
by the end of the year, interest rates are 
still expected to rise, the global political 
climate is difficult, the war in Ukraine is 
expected to continue and together with 
recent banking volatility this results in 
the Directors adopting a cautious 
outlook for the new financial year. 

Our central planning assumptions are:

Micro:
•  The NJ DC in USA will be fully 

operational by the end of H1 FY24

•  Store growth in key markets will 

continue to be led by traffic recovery 
back towards pre Covid-19 levels with 
a step improvement in ecommerce 
awareness also continuing in 
conjunction with new store openings

•  AW23 price increases to not 
materially impact demand
•  Inventory to be right sized for 

forward demand by March 2024: 
sales volumes to be higher than 
purchases through H2 

•  All DCs and factories remain open 

and operational throughout the year

•  Share buyback proceeds
•  Debt bullet repayment of £296.8m 
in February 2026 with a refinancing 
for the same amount included

Macro:
•  No material changes to the global 
political situation/war in Ukraine
•  Higher inflation to remain (with 

associated higher interest rates) with no 
marked step improvement in consumer 
confidence in EMEA or America

These conservative central assumptions 
form the base case for our FY24 budget, 
Viability Statement assessments, 
Going Concern Statement and store 
impairment analysis.

We have modelled the impact on  
one severe but plausible scenario 
represented by the realisation of the 
relevant principal risks as set out 
below. Under this scenario we did not 
model any planned cost or working 
capital mitigating actions (including 
dividend payments). The outputs of 
this scenario are described below.

60

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Group planning process 
Our normal planning process consists of  
a rigorous review of the DOCS strategy 
(described on pages 30 and 31) by the 
Global Leadership Team (GLT) on an annual 
basis, following which an updated long-term 
financial plan is derived and reviewed with 
the Board. Before the beginning of a new 
financial year, a detailed, bottom-up budget 
is prepared with thorough review and 
discussion between each region’s President 
and CEO, CFO and COO, and presentation 
and discussion with the GLT, followed by 
the Board. We monitor our performance 
through the financial year against this 
budget and prior year actual performance 
with a formal re-forecast process conducted 
as required. The key assumptions 
considered in all reviews are:

•  trading performance by channel;

•  trading performance by product and 

geography; 

•  expenditure plans; and

•  cash generation.

We also consider projected liquidity, 
Balance Sheet strength and potential 
impact on shareholder returns.

Assessment period
The Directors have assessed the viability 
of the Group over a three-year period to  
31 March 2026, as this aligns to our internal 
planning cycle. The planning for this 
three-year period is assessed by month and 
includes investments, plans and actions.

Assessment of viability
The Directors of the Group have considered 
the future position based on current trading 
and a number of potential downside 
scenarios which may occur, either through 
further supply chain-related impacts, 
general economic uncertainty or other 
risks. This assessment has considered the 
overall level of Group borrowings and 
covenant requirements, the flexibility of 
the Group to react to changing market 
conditions and the ability to appropriately 
manage any business risks. 

Viability has been assessed by:
Where appropriate and practical, we 
assessed the impact of a number of  
risks, described on pages 56 to 59, 
crystallising and subsequent impact  
on trading, cash flows and covenant 
compliance. Specifically, the principal  
risk areas of supply chain, financial  
and cyber security risks were assessed  
as being most relevant to model. 

These could also be considered impacts from 
climate change and risks related to public 
health debate. The main risks and specific 
‘black swan’ events assessed are given below 
and the Group continues to have satisfactory 
liquidity and covenant headroom under 
each risk modelled individually:

•  the impact of all factories in one key 

production geographic area being out of 
operation for a period of around three 
months. This has been assessed for two 
separate countries of production;

•  a website in a significant region out of 

action for a period of one month during 
peak trading;

•  the impact of a large distribution centre 

being out of action for a period of around 
six months (being the estimated time to 
set up a new third-party operation); and

•  weaker consumer sentiment and  

lower demand.

‘Top-down’ sensitivity and stress testing 
included a review of the cash flow 
projections and covenant compliance 
under a severe but plausible scenario  
in relation to the downside scenario 
described above. In the unlikely event  
of two of the above scenarios occurring 
together, there is a breach in covenant 
headroom in FY25 which can be 
remediated with mitigating actions, 
including cancellation of bonus, holding 
marketing investment in line with prior 
year percentage of revenue and delaying/
cancellation of certain IT related capex 
spend. Under this scenario, dividends 
could be maintained, but would be 
reviewed if required. Experience through 
the two years of FY22 and FY23 indicated 
minimal wholesale bad debt risk and 
minimal margin risk with the principal risk 
being lower revenue. In the scenario 
modelled post mitigation, the Group 
continues to have satisfactory liquidity 
and covenant headroom throughout the 
period under review.

A more extreme downside scenario is not 
considered plausible.

A reverse stress test has also been 
modelled to determine what could break 
covenant compliance estimates and 
liquidity before mitigating actions.  
To model these reverse stress tests the 
impact on revenue of zero covenant 
headroom and zero liquidity was calculated 
at the end of FY24. Under the covenant 
breach test it is concluded that the 
business could weather extreme growth 
reductions without mitigation, -26%pts1  

to revenue growth in FY24 before 
covenants are breached. Similarly, the 
business would have to experience 
-61%pts1 revenue growth reduction  
in FY24 before zero cash headroom is 
reached. Under both tests modelled,  
there were no mitigating actions (including 
dividend payments) modelled. The 
Directors have assessed the likelihood  
of occurrence to be remote.

We have assessed the qualitative and 
quantitative impact of climate-related 
risks on asset recoverable amounts and 
concluded that there would not be a 
material impact on the business and  
cash flows in the viability period.

We will continue to monitor the effects  
of global macro-economic considerations 
and geopolitical events on our Group and 
the economies and consumer confidence 
in the countries where we operate and we 
plan to maintain maximum flexibility to 
react, on a market-by-market basis.

Statement
Based on the analysis, the Directors have 
a reasonable expectation that the Group 
will continue in operation and meet its 
liabilities as they fall due over the 
three-year period of this assessment. 

GOING CONCERN
The financial statements have been 
prepared on a going concern basis.  
The Directors’ assessment is based on 
detailed trading and cash flow forecasts, 
including forecast liquidity and covenant 
compliance. The period of management’s 
assessment is from the date of the 
signing of the financial statements to 
30 September 2024 and the going 
concern basis is dependent on the Group 
maintaining adequate levels of resources 
to operate during the period.

Based on the going concern assessment 
(discussed in note 2.5 of the financial 
statements), the Directors have a 
reasonable expectation that the Group 
has adequate resources to continue in 
operational existence for the 12 months 
from the date of approval of these 
financial statements. For this reason, they 
continue to adopt the going concern basis 
in preparing the financial statements.

1.  On a constant currency basis, an Alternative Performance Measure ‘APM’ as defined in the Glossary on pages 227 to 228.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

61

STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability

OUR SUSTAINABILITY
JOURNEY

SUSTAINABILITY  
THROUGH LONGEVITY
Dr. Martens products have embodied timeless 
design and durability for over six decades.  
As custodians of the brand, we are clear in 
our vision to build a business which embodies 
sustainability and delivers long-term impact. In 
June 2022, we launched our new sustainability 
strategy: Planet, Product, People, which sets 
out our long-term commitment to leaving 
things better than we found them. 

We are not afraid to stand up for what 
we believe in, which is why sustainability 
underpins our DOCS business strategy  
(pages 30 and 31) and is reflected in our brand 
ethos of Rebellious Self Expression (page 8). 

This section of the report sets out our journey 
so far and our plans for the future. 

62

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

OUR PROGRESS IN FY23…

PLANET

2040

Submitted our 
Science-Based Targets  
for verification which set 
out our plan to become a 
Net-Zero business by 2040

91%

Sourced 91% of the 
electricity for our owned 
and operated EMEA  
sites (including UK) from 
renewable sources

 P70

 P71

PRODUCT

35%

Removed non-recyclable 
plastic foam divider  
across 35% of the AW23 
footwear volume

 P81

Invested
in a leading recycled  
leather producer, to  
support industry-wide 
adoption of innovative  
and circular materials

 P80

R ecommer ce
Repair and resale trial 
successfully launched in the UK

 P83

PEOPLE

100%

100% of our Tier 1 and  
Key Tier 2 suppliers  
CSR audited met our  
high standards1

 P95

£2.4M

Dr. Martens Foundation 
launched the ‘Right to Be’ 
flagship programme and 
awarded 34 organisations  
a total of £2.4 million

 P92

1.    Audit results above 75% scoring for Tier 1, and above 70% for Key Tier 2,  

in line with Intertek Workplace Conditions Assessment scoring methodology.

 
WHAT’S IN THIS SECTION

Our sustainability journey 

A word from our sustainability leaders 

Our sustainability strategy 

PLANET  

Climate  

Operations  

PRODUCT  

Materials 

Packaging 

Lifecycle 

PEOPLE  

Diversity, equity and inclusion 

Human rights 

Community 

Responsibly managing our supply chain 

Sustainability governance 

SASB reference table 

62

64

66

68

 70

74

76

78

81

82

84

89

91

92

94

96

97

MORE ONLINE

   Our materiality assessment 

   Our impact on the Sustainable 
Development Goals (SDGs)

  Find out more at: drmartensplc.com

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

63

STRATEGIC REPORT 
Sustainability continued

A WORD FROM OUR 
SUSTAINABILITY
LEADERS

TUZE MEKIK
GLOBAL HEAD OF SUSTAINABILITY

EMILY REICHWALD
CHIEF PEOPLE AND SUSTAINABILITY OFFICER

OUR SUSTAINABILITY 
JOURNEY SO FAR…  
AND WHERE WE WANT  
TO GET TO 

64

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

2019

Launch of Dr. Martens 
first 5-pillar sustainability 
strategy

2021

Dr. Martens plc 
IPO 

LEADERS

Dr. Martens has stood the 
test of time for over six 
decades. Our Planet, Product, 
People sustainability strategy 
was introduced last year with 
the guiding principle being  
‘to leave things better than 
we found them’. It is this 
approach which we believe 
will support the resilience  
of our brand into the next  
60 years and beyond.

Sustainability is an evolving and ongoing 
journey, but one that we are proud to 
have made good progress on over the 
past year. A key focus has been on 
deepening our understanding of our 
environmental impacts, through our 
carbon footprint which we have measured 
for the second time and modelling our 
Net-Zero science-based targets. This has 

been a hugely educational process and we 
recognise the challenge ahead, but we are 
confident in our long-term destination. 

This is our third Sustainability report – here 
we outline the key progress we have made 
over the past year. We hope you enjoy.

We were excited to see the success of  
our first repair and resale trial in the UK. 
This is now ongoing and the learnings are 
being used to expand our recommerce 
offering into the USA, which is in the final 
stages of planning. We also made strides 
on our journey towards circularity with 
investment in our new materials 
innovation partner, Gen Phoenix.

This year, another key moment was the 
culmination of an extensive deep dive  
into our culture, looking into what 
Rebellious Self Expression means to us. 
We celebrated with the launch of our new 
values, which capture the true spirit of 
what it means to work for Dr. Martens: be 
yourself, act courageously and show you 
care. We are also delighted with the 
impact the Dr. Martens Foundation has 
had through the ‘Right to Be’ programme 
and grassroots grants.

EMILY REICHWALD 
Chief People and Sustainability Officer

TUZE MEKIK 
Global Head of Sustainability

 FOCUS 

Linking Executive remuneration 
to the achievement of our 
sustainability commitments 

Our Executive bonuses are linked to the 
achievement of specific sustainability 
initiatives that underpin our long-term 
sustainability commitments. Find out 
more in our Remuneration report on 
page 145.

2022

Launch of our current 
Planet, Product, People 
sustainability strategy

2023

Rollout of strategic roadmaps 
to support our sustainability 
strategy, led by cross-
functional working groups

Net-Zero target submitted to 
SBTi for validation

LONG-TERM 
DESTINATION

Leaving things better  
than we found them: 
This includes our long-term 
ambitions to reach Net-Zero, for  
all our footwear to be made from 
sustainable materials, our natural 
materials to be from regenerative 
sources and for all our products to 
have a sustainable end-of-life option. 

It also includes our efforts to create a 
workplace in which all our employees 
feel supported, included and 
empowered to express themselves; as 
well as the ongoing development of 
a responsible and transparent supply 
chain. The Dr. Martens Foundation 
will continue to be a champion for 
social justice causes. 

   See P66 and 67 to find out more about 
our Planet, Product, People sustainability 
strategy and our related long-term 
commitments 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

65

STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

OUR SUSTAINABILITY

STRATEGY

Our sustainability strategy is focused on our three pillars: Planet, Product, People.  
It sets out our long-term sustainability commitments. We are delivering on our strategy  
through our robust governance structure and roadmaps. 

Planet

Product

People

Focus areas

Climate

Operations

Materials

Packaging

Lifecycle

DE&I

Human rights

Communities

Our commitments

WHERE WE WANT TO GO... 

Energy and climate 
•  Net-Zero target to be 
validated by SBTi 
(expected in FY24)
•  Renewable electricity 
across all owned and 
operated facilities by 2025

Environmental impacts 
from supply chain 
manufacturing processes
•  Environmental certification 

standard to all Tier 1 
suppliers by 2025

Waste management
•  Minimise waste and ensure 

zero waste to landfill 
across the full value chain 
by 2028

Chemicals management 
and product compliance 
•  Support suppliers to adopt 
best practice chemicals 
management by 2025

Materials 
•  100% of footwear made from 
sustainable materials by 2040

•  Sustainable alternative to 

outsoles by 2035

•  Sustainable vegan upper 

material by 2028

•  Remove fossil-based chemicals 
from products (where scalable 
alternatives exist) by 2035

Sourcing standards
•  100% of the natural materials 
in products from regenerative 
agriculture by 2040

•  Zero deforestation by 2025

Leather supply
•  100% leather traceability  
for all countries by 2024
•  100% upper leather from  
LWG tanneries by 2023

Operations
working group

Materials
working group

Packaging 

Useable life

•  100% packaging from 

•  Sustainable design 

The following commitments 

We are committed  

We are proud of our record 

are to be achieved by 2027:

to respecting human 

of standing up for social 

recycled or other 

thinking and principles 

sustainably sourced 

training by 2022 

material by 2028

•  All products align to 

sustainable design 

criteria by 2028

•  Offer options and 

guidance for wearers  

to maximise useable 

life by 2025

End of life

•  100% products sold 

have sustainable end  

of life option by 2040

Ethnicity

•  30% underrepresented 

communities in senior 

leadership roles (GLT 

and direct reports)

Gender 

•  50% women in senior 

leadership roles (GLT 

and direct reports)

•  Increase non-binary 

colleagues from 2%  

to 4% globally

•  Increase male 

representation across 

our retail stores to 40%

rights. This is reflected 

justice. This includes 

in our DOCtrine (our 

supporting anti-racism, 

business code of 

advancing LGBTQIA+ 

conduct), Supplier Code 

rights and promoting 

of Conduct, Migrant 

Worker Policy and 

Anti-Slavery and Human 

Trafficking Policy. 

In addition, we plan  

positive mental health. 

In parallel, the Dr. Martens 

Foundation (an 

independent UK charity) 

implements a structured 

to undertake a human 

programme to help 

rights risk assessment 

organisations pursue 

in FY24 to inform our 

social justice.

management approach 

in this important area. 

HOW WE’RE GETTING THERE…

Working groups
Our cross-functional working 
groups implement our roadmaps, 
through which we deliver on our 
commitments. These roadmaps 
include actions, roles, milestones 
and KPIs.

Supporting initiatives
Additional initiatives that support 
the delivery of our strategy.

Relevant UN SDGs 

  To find out more, see our SDG 

mapping exercise at: drmartensplc.com

66

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Climate initiatives 
Climate is a cross-cutting theme that feeds into and supports our Planet and Product working groups.

 FOCUS 

Embedding sustainability into our DOCS strategy 

We are embedding key elements of our 
sustainability strategy into our DOCS 
strategy (see pages 30 and 31). These 
include our strategic repair and resale 
business model, the ongoing development  
of a sustainable, resilient and scalable  
supply chain and our product innovation  
and durability initiatives. 

Beyond this, our sustainability strategy 
supports the DOCS strategy by: 

•  Demonstrating to our consumers that  
we stand up for what we believe in
•  Supporting the active management  
of climate risks and opportunities 
•  Building a culture in which our people  

and our business can thrive 

Our sustainability strategy is also integral to 
our brand ethos of Rebellious Self Expression 
(see page 8). We stand up for what we 
believe in and this includes taking urgent 
action on sustainability. This is about the 
next generation and leaving things better 
than we found them. It is also about being a 
business that people want to work for, work 
with and invest in.

Planet

Product

People

Focus areas

Climate

Operations

Materials

Packaging

Lifecycle

DE&I

Human rights

Communities

Our commitments

WHERE WE WANT TO GO... 

Energy and climate 

•  Net-Zero target to be 

validated by SBTi 

(expected in FY24)

•  Renewable electricity 

across all owned and 

operated facilities by 2025

Environmental impacts 

Materials 

from supply chain 

manufacturing processes

•  Environmental certification 

•  100% of footwear made from 

sustainable materials by 2040

•  Sustainable alternative to 

standard to all Tier 1 

suppliers by 2025

Waste management

•  Minimise waste and ensure 

zero waste to landfill 

across the full value chain 

by 2028

Chemicals management 

and product compliance 

•  Support suppliers to adopt 

best practice chemicals 

management by 2025

outsoles by 2035

•  Sustainable vegan upper 

material by 2028

•  Remove fossil-based chemicals 

from products (where scalable 

alternatives exist) by 2035

Sourcing standards

•  100% of the natural materials 

in products from regenerative 

agriculture by 2040

•  Zero deforestation by 2025

Leather supply

•  100% leather traceability  

for all countries by 2024

•  100% upper leather from  

LWG tanneries by 2023

Packaging 
•  100% packaging from 
recycled or other 
sustainably sourced 
material by 2028

Useable life
•  Sustainable design 

thinking and principles 
training by 2022 
•  All products align to 
sustainable design 
criteria by 2028
•  Offer options and 

guidance for wearers  
to maximise useable 
life by 2025

End of life
•  100% products sold 

have sustainable end  
of life option by 2040

The following commitments 
are to be achieved by 2027:

Ethnicity
•  30% underrepresented 
communities in senior 
leadership roles (GLT 
and direct reports)

Gender 
•  50% women in senior 
leadership roles (GLT 
and direct reports)
•  Increase non-binary 
colleagues from 2%  
to 4% globally
•  Increase male 

representation across 
our retail stores to 40%

We are committed  
to respecting human 
rights. This is reflected 
in our DOCtrine (our 
business code of 
conduct), Supplier Code 
of Conduct, Migrant 
Worker Policy and 
Anti-Slavery and Human 
Trafficking Policy. 

In addition, we plan  
to undertake a human 
rights risk assessment 
in FY24 to inform our 
management approach 
in this important area. 

We are proud of our record 
of standing up for social 
justice. This includes 
supporting anti-racism, 
advancing LGBTQIA+ 
rights and promoting 
positive mental health. 

In parallel, the Dr. Martens 
Foundation (an 
independent UK charity) 
implements a structured 
programme to help 
organisations pursue 
social justice.

Packaging
working group

Lifecycle
working group

Climate initiatives 

Climate is a cross-cutting theme that feeds into and supports our Planet and Product working groups.

DE&I  
Strategy

CSR monitoring  
& modern slavery 
programme

Dr. Martens 
Foundation

HOW WE’RE GETTING THERE…

Relevant UN SDGs 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

67

STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

PLANET

68

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

We are working hard to reduce our impact on the 
planet. Much of our focus is on actively measuring, 
managing and reducing our carbon footprint. This 
reflects our commitment to helping address the 
climate crisis by achieving Net-Zero emissions. 
Similarly, we are embedding broader responsible 
environmental principles and practices across our 
own operations and supply chain.

FOCUS AR EAS AND COMMITMENTS 

CLIMATE

OPERATIONS

   Net-Zero by 2040 (target  
to be validated by SBTi) 

   Renewable electricity  
across all owned and 
operated facilities by 2025

   Minimise waste and ensure 
zero waste to landfill across 
the full value chain by 2028 

   Environmental certification 
standard to all Tier 1 suppliers 
by 2025 

   Support suppliers to adopt 
best practice chemical 
management by 2025

  For additional commitments, see P70 and 74

Our progr ess

SET SCIENCE- 
BASED TARGETS

Submitted our Science-Based 
Targets to the SBTi for verification, 
outlining our ambition to reach 
Net-Zero by 2040

91%

Sourced 91% of the electricity 
for our owned and operated 
EMEA sites (including UK) 
from renewable sources

R ELATED UN SDGS

   To find out more, see our SDG mapping exercise at: 
drmartensplc.com

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

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STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

CLIMATE

WHY IT MATTERS… 
Urgent collective action is needed to address climate 
change, with global ambitions to limit global warming to 
1.5 degrees looking increasingly challenging. We have 
responded to the call from the Science Based Targets 
initiative (SBTi) for corporate climate action by 
committing to the Business Ambition for 1.5°C campaign. 

OUR COMMITMENTS:
Energy and climate 

   Net-Zero target to be validated by SBTi  
(expected in FY24)

   Renewable electricity across all owned  
and operated facilities by 2025

WHAT WE’RE DOING…

OUR JOURNEY TOWARDS NET-ZERO
Setting Science-Based Targets
In line with the requirements of the SBTi,  
we have committed to set near and 
long-term emissions reduction targets 
aligned with climate science and Net-Zero 
for our own operations and value chain. 

Since agreeing our original Net-Zero 
ambition, additional relevant guidance was 
published (SBTi’s Net-Zero Standard and 
Forest, Land and Agriculture Guidance 
(FLAG)). We therefore amended our 
ambition to ensure we follow the latest 
guidance and adhere to the science-based 
approach. Our Net-Zero targets were 
realigned and submitted to the SBTi in 
December 2022 with the support of the 
Carbon Trust.

We are awaiting verification of the 
following targets1 from the SBTi:

We will report progress against each target 
once they have been verified and approved. 

Near-term 2030 Science-Based Targets 
(SBTs) aligned with a well-below 2˚C 
global warming target: 
 Reduce absolute… 
•  Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 90% 

•  Scope 3  FLAG  emissions 30%

•  Scope 3 Industry emissions 30% 

Long-term 2040 SBTs aligned with a 1.5˚C 
global warming target: 
 Reduce absolute… 
•  Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 90%  

to Net-Zero

•  Scope 3  FLAG  emissions by 72%  

to Net-Zero

•  Scope 3 Industry emissions by 90%  

to Net-Zero

We have submitted  absolute  
 reduction  targets, which is  
the most ambitious approach 
and aims for a reduction in 
total emissions.

Leather is one of 11 major 
commodities under the SBTi 
 Forest, Land and Agriculture  
 (FLAG)  Guidance. Leather 
accounts for a significant 
portion of our total emissions 
profile so we have set specific 
leather emissions reduction 
targets according to the FLAG 
Guidance.

 FOCUS 

Achieving our Science-Based Targets

Key examples of our  
carbon reduction initiatives 
and the emissions scopes 
they impact.

These are some of the key 
actions we are taking to 
mitigate our climate-related 
risks and opportunities  
as outlined in our TCFD 
disclosure on pages 99  
to 107.

Materials
Regenerative agriculture 
(pages 72 and 79) (Scope 3)

Alternative materials  
(e.g. low impact materials, 
leather alternatives and 
bio-based outsoles)  
(page 80) (Scope 3)

Lifecycle
Extending the useable life 
of our products (page 82) 
(Scope 3)

Offering sustainable 
end-of-life solutions for 
our products  
(e.g. recommerce)  
(page 83) (Scope 3)

Operations
Supplier environmental 
management (page 75) 
(Scope 3)

Energy and waste  
(pages 71 and 75)  
(Scope 1, 2, 3)

Net-Zero by 
2040

Packaging
Sourcing more 
sustainable packaging 
(page 81) (Scope 3)

1.     FY20 used as the baseline.

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DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Understanding our carbon footprint 
This year, we undertook our second 
carbon footprinting exercise with the 
Carbon Trust, who mapped our emissions 
across our operations and full value 
chain. Figure 1 details the breakdown of 
our Scope 1-3 footprint. This is aligned to 
the Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Protocol and 
covers our updated FY20 baseline and the 
FY22 period (April 2021 – March 2022). 

We use the most recent and accurate data 
available to conduct our carbon footprint. 
Due to the large quantity of data required 
to calculate Scope 3 emissions, we currently 
calculate our footprint one year in 
arrears. Further details on our FY22 and 
FY23 Scope 1 and 2 emissions can be found 
in our Streamlined Energy and Carbon 
Reporting (SECR) disclosure on page 73. 

We use FY20 as a baseline year for our 
carbon footprint to avoid Covid-related 
disruptions, where the most significant 
disruptions were evident during FY21.

Between FY20 and FY22 the number of 
pairs sold increased by 26.3%1. As a result, 
our FY22 carbon footprint has increased 
from our FY20 baseline by 13.4%. We have 
committed to reduce our absolute Scope 
1-3 emissions aligned with a 1.5˚C global 
warming target by 2040 and will continue 
to focus our efforts on this. 

The absolute increase in emissions can be 
directly attributed to higher volumes of 
leather purchased due to the increase in 
products sold over this period. However, 
not all emission increases are linked to 
business growth. The quality of data used 
for our footprint improved this year and 
previously used methodologies were 
amended to provide better estimates 
where possible. This resulted in emission 
fluctuations across categories when 
compared to the baseline. 

Measuring Scope 3 emissions with 
consistency and accuracy can be 
challenging due to the emissions sources 
occurring outside our direct control. We 
work with our supply chain partners such 
as tanneries, our Tier 1 factories, material 

suppliers and shipping partners to collect 
primary data on their GHG emissions. 
Scope 3 footprinting relies on industry 
best practice estimations and calculation 
methodologies such as lifecycle 
assessments (LCAs) to inform carbon 
accounting approaches. This is an iterative 
process and results in varying degrees of 
precision, but we hope to improve this 
year on year by eliminating uncertainties 
through working with our value chain 
partners to collect primary data.

We continue to focus on delivering the 
carbon reduction initiatives outlined in 
the diagram on page 70 which will result 
in emissions reductions in the future.  
Due to the lead time on a number of 
these projects, such as regenerative 
agriculture and materials innovation, the 
resulting emissions reductions will not be 
immediate. However, we are confident in 
our approach and will continue to work 
towards our goals. While we have disclosed 
our footprint results across Scopes 1-3, we 
will also report progress against our SBTs, 
including our FLAG targets, once our 
targets have been verified. 

Figure 1: Updated FY20 baseline footprint and FY22 footprint for 
Scope 1, 2 and 3 emissions (April 2021 – March 2022)

Scope

Scope 1

Scope 2 (Location)

Scope 2 (Market)

Scope 33

FY20 Tonnes CO2e

FY22 Tonnes CO2e

640

1,891

1,936

756

1,665

1,285

240,3552

273,422

FY22 % of  

total value chain

0.27%

–

0.47%

99.26%

Figure 2: FY22 Scope 3 emissions (tCO2e)

Scope 3 emissions category

FY22 Emissions 
(tCO2e)

Percentage contribution 
to Scope 3 emissions

Purchased Goods and Services

225,156

82.3%

Capital Goods

Fuel and Energy Related Activities

Upstream Transportation and Distribution

Waste Generated in Operations

Business Travel

Employee Commuting

Downstream Transportation and Distribution

Use of Sold Products

End-of-Life Treatment of Sold Products

Franchises

4,416

511

17,257

1,508

1,242

3,531

3,509

1,140

14,918

233

1.6%

0.2%

6.3%

0.6%

0.5%

1.3%

1.3%

0.4%

5.5%

0.1%

 FOCUS 

Renewable energy use at  
our European sites

In FY23, we focused on transitioning 
our EMEA operations to renewable 
energy, building on the successful 
transition of our UK sites. This 
means that 89% of our mainland 
European electricity supply now 
comes from renewables (FY22: 
39%). Two UK sites currently have 
metering issues which unfortunately 
reduced our UK renewable electricity 
percentage to 95% for FY23 (FY22: 
100%), however we are confident 
these will be rectified in FY24.

91%

of our UK and European 
electricity supply now comes 
from renewables

1.  Pairs sold increased from 11.1 million (FY20) to 14.1 million (FY22).
2.   This year, we were able to increase methodological accuracy in some of our Scope 3 categories to account for the emissions associated. Due to this we have updated 
the Scope 3 emissions of our FY20 baseline year to align with these alterations. These methodology improvements have led to a 3.8% increase in our FY20 baseline 
Scope 3 emissions. 

3.   The following GHG Protocol Scope 3 emissions are excluded because they are covered in another category or because they are not relevant for our business:  

(8) Upstream Leased Assets, (10) Processing, (13) Downstream Leased Assets and (15) Investments.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

71

STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

What is regenerative 
agriculture?

Regenerative agriculture is a 
holistic set of farming practices  
that seek to have lower, or even 
positive, environmental impacts, 
such as practising soil cover or 
using non-synthetic fertiliser. This 
can include harnessing agricultural 
practices that promote healthy  
soil biology to capture and store 
greenhouse gases associated with 
raising cattle.

We are focusing on how it can be 
used to alleviate climate change, 
improve soil health and improve 
ecosystems and biodiversity.  
For further details see page 79. 

 FOCUS 

Leather-related emissions 

The unique and versatile characteristics 
of leather mean it is a longstanding and 
important material for the footwear 
industry. According to our FY20 baseline, 
leather-related emissions made up 32.0%1 
of our carbon footprint2. This increased  
to 39.0% of our FY22 carbon footprint 
due to an increase in leather volumes 
purchased over the two years. 

In reality, sector best practices around the 
calculation of the carbon footprint of 
leather are complex and still evolving. We 
are working with our peers and through 
the Leather Working Group (LWG, page 
79) to develop a standard for this process. 
This includes the calculation of the full, 
cross-lifecycle carbon impacts of leather. 
For example, the LWG is working with 
external consultants to develop an updated 
LCA for leather to ensure the benchmark 
data which is often used in the LCA 
assessment of leather is up to date and 
reflective of current industry practices.

The hides used for the leather we source 
come from animals raised for the food 
industry. Despite the relatively far-removed 
upstream position of agricultural emissions, 
the significance of leather in our carbon 
footprint means that in order to meet our 
Net-Zero ambition it is important we work 
with the entire value chain and our leather 
suppliers to improve (or lower the impact 
of) related agricultural and land 
management practices (page 79). 

In addition, the FLAG sector offers 
significant opportunities to not only 
reduce further carbon emissions, but also 
to increase levels of carbon sequestration. 
According to the Intergovernmental Panel 
on Climate Change (IPCC), stopping 
deforestation, applying regenerative 
agriculture and restoring peat and 
wetlands, among other FLAG-related 
activities, has the potential to deliver 
more than 30% of the global emissions 
reductions needed to keep global warming 
below 2˚C. As a result, we believe that 
regenerative agriculture has the potential 
to play a significant role in helping us 
achieve the emissions reductions we need 
to meet our Science-Based Targets. 

It is in this context that we have committed 
to zero deforestation across our supply 
chain by 2025 and to source all of our 
natural materials from regenerative 
agriculture by 2040. This will play a direct 
role in helping us achieve our SBTs (see 
our TCFD disclosure on pages 99 to 107). 
We also engaged in the development of 
the Taskforce on Nature-related Financial 
Disclosures (TNFD) framework through our 
partnership with the Carbon Trust. This 
market-led, science-based framework 
aims to help companies and financial 
institutions integrate nature-related risks 
and opportunities into their decision-
making. Dr. Martens assisted in the 
development of the latest framework 
through the contribution of our data.

1.    This figure has been updated in line with amendments to the FY20 baseline.
2.   This calculation is based on the EU’s Leather Product Environmental Footprint Category Rule (Leather PEFCR), as well as primary data from our tanneries.

72

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

FIGURE 3: Streamlined Energy and Carbon Reporting statement 
Emissions data in respect of the FY23 reporting period is as follows: 

GHG Protocol Scope

Scope 1 

Scope 1 

Total Scope 1

Sub-category

FY22 Emissions (tCO2e)
Global

UK

FY23 Emissions (tCO2e)
Global
UK 

Gas and transport fuel

 317.36 

Fugitive emissions

–

 317.36 

 406.84 

 26.60 

 517.85 

 238.03 

 755.88 

 1,665.08 

 1,284.83 

230.86

83.40

874.09

174.68

 314.26 

 1,048.77 

457.95

88.35

1,505.34

1,135.75

Scope 2 (Location-based) 

Scope 2 (Market-based)

Purchased energy

Purchased energy

Scope 1 and 2 (Location-based)

 724.20 

 2,420.96 

 772.21 

 2,554.11 

Scope 3

Grey fleet

 5.34 

 13.37 

12.01

78.69

Total emissions (Location-based)

 729.54 

 2,434.33 

 784.22 

 2,632.80 

Total energy use (kWh)

 3,471,181 

 7,404,496 

3,640,359

9,540,330

Turnover (£)
Intensity ratio (tCO2e/£100,000)

–  908,299,000 

–

0.27

– 1,000,299,000

–

0.26

•  The reporting period for SECR is 01/04/22 – 31/03/23 and covers 

•  Conversion factors for UK market-based reporting have been provided  

Dr. Martens plc and other Group companies.

by the respective supplier(s).

•  This includes limited Scope 1 and 2 emissions (gas and fuel used in 

•  Conversion factors for America, Europe and Asia were sourced from 

transport; purchased electricity), except where stated. Scope 1 physical or 
chemical processing emissions are not applicable and Scope 2 steam, 
district heating and district cooling emissions are not applicable. Scope 3 
emissions are limited to grey fleet in the UK and US. There are no grey fleet 
emissions in APAC. In EMEA, grey fleet emissions were unavailable and 
have been excluded. Our complete Scope 1-3 emissions are calculated one 
year in arrears due to the complexity of the data collection process; our 
FY22 footprint including full Scope 3 emissions can be found on page 71.
•  The methodology used is based on the principles of the Greenhouse Gas 
Protocol, taking into account the 2015 amendment which sets out a ’dual 
reporting’ methodology for reporting on Scope 2 emissions. 

•  Separate UK dual reporting has been conducted, in addition to mandatory 

global reporting, which encompasses all global data. 

•  GHG emissions have been assessed in accordance with HM Government’s 
‘Environmental Reporting Guidelines: Including Streamlined Energy and 
Carbon Reporting guidance’, March 2019 update. In order to calculate 
location-based emissions ‘2022 UK Government GHG Conversion Factors 
for Company Reporting’ have been used in line with the GHG Protocol 
Corporate Accounting and Reporting Standard. 

‘Carbon Footprint, Country Specific Electricity Grid Greenhouse Factors, 
2023 update’, open source conversion factors for company reporting.
•  Scope 1 (Transport & Fugitive) and Scope 3 emissions (grey fleet) have 
been calculated using ‘2022 UK Government GHG Conversion Factors  
for Company Reporting’. 

•  Data has been sourced from a combination of half hourly readings and 
energy invoices. Where data was unavailable, energy consumption has 
been estimated for the respective meter and period. 

•  Estimation methods include calculating the average daily consumption 

(kWh) and applying to the period in question. Where data was unavailable, 
energy consumption for a different 12-month period has been used. This 
was very rare and only occurred where annual invoices had not been 
released. When only annual spend was available (for example at some 
landlord controlled sites), annual spend was divided by an average cost  
per kWh, then consumption calculated from there.

Energy efficiency initiatives:
Reducing Scope 2 emissions across our 
store network is essential to meet our 
Net-Zero ambitions. With that in mind, we 
implemented integrated technology to 
measure and manage energy consumption 
at two of our stores in Carnaby Street, 
London and Les Halles, Paris. Implementing 
smart metering and controls on energy 
consuming units allows for automated 
energy meter readings and simultaneously 
allows real-time improvements to  
energy efficiency. 

Through setpoint optimisation and HVAC 
overnight switch off, we were able to 
achieve energy savings at both stores, 
resulting in 9.8% and 5.3% reductions at 
the London and Paris stores respectively. 

Both stores were of a similar size but 
differed in their architecture and 
equipment which resulted in varied energy 
savings. This project has helped to realise 
the role that energy management could 
have across our global store portfolio, and 
we will take the learnings forward in our 
approach to energy efficiency. 

CLIMATE RISKS AND OPPORTUNITIES 
We are working to better understand the 
nature of our climate risks and the related 
financial implications for our business. 
Our SBTs help us plan what action we 
need to take, the impact on our business 
and the degree to which these targets will 
mitigate climate-related risks. For further 
information, see our Task Force on 
Climate-related Financial Disclosures 
(TCFD) disclosure on page 99.

WHAT’S NEXT ?

We will continue to monitor our annual 
carbon footprint and progress with  
our carbon reduction efforts. With the 
majority of our impact in the supply 
chain, a key focus is on supplier 
engagement. We are also planning to 
carry out modelling to enhance our 
understanding of our climate-related 
financial risks, including the impact  
of our Net-Zero targets. 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

73

STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

OPERATIONS

WHY IT MATTERS… 
Operational excellence is at the core of our DOCS 
strategy, which means building a best in-class, resilient 
and sustainable supply chain. When it comes to  
our direct environmental performance, we have a 
responsibility to manage our own stores, offices, 
distribution centres and our Made In England factory, 
as well as the impact of our products themselves. But it 
is also important to recognise that the majority of our 
environmental impacts are found in our supply chain. 
This is why it is important we work collaboratively with 
our suppliers to implement more responsible practices, 
including with respect to waste reduction, the 
management of chemicals and energy use.

OUR COMMITMENTS:
Environmental impacts from 
supply chain manufacturing 
processes

   Environmental certification 
standard to all Tier 1 suppliers 
by 2025

Waste management

   Minimise waste and ensure zero 
waste to landfill across the full 
value chain by 2028

Chemicals management  
and product compliance 

   Support suppliers to adopt  
best practice chemicals 
management by 2025

   See P94 for more information 
on how we responsibly manage 
our supply chain

WHAT WE’RE DOING…

OUR OWN OPERATIONS
While our own operations account for 
only 1% of our total carbon footprint, we 
take our commitment to combat climate 
change seriously and must do what  
we can to reduce our related emissions. 

 FOCUS 

Made In England –  
a hub for sustainability 
innovation 

Our Made In England factory is 
where we pursue manufacturing 
innovation and excellence. The 
factory, which is certified to ISO 
14001, is constantly improving its 
environmental management 
performance. In FY23, optimisation 
of the digital cutter supported the 
development of our first ‘deadstock’ 
product line which is made from 
leather that would otherwise go to 
waste (page 75).

74

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 FOCUS 

Sustainable store design 

Our retail reimagined concept store in 
Carnaby Street, London represents 
our first ‘test and learn’ site for our 
sustainable retail initiatives. 
Learnings from the site will help 
inform the development of our future 
Sustainable Store Development 
Guidelines (which are informed by the 
BREEAM1 standard). We are planning 
to test elements of these in two other 
European stores later in the year. Our 
Guidelines are primarily focused on: 

•  Sustainable material development
•  Promoting circularity and 

prioritising reuse 

•  Increasing energy and water 

efficiency

•  Minimising waste to landfill 

In FY23, the store was certified to 
the BREEAM sustainable building 
standard, achieving a ‘Good’ rating. In 
addition, fixtures in the store received 
the Design Conformity mark, the first 
independent quality and sustainability 
design standard for retail display 
equipment. At the same time, we 
are establishing new regional supply 
chains for the fit out of our stores 
which will enhance our logistics and 
reduce our carbon footprint. 

We have also established a regrind 
process where our shoe waste can 
be cast and formed into tabletops, 
the first of which will be seen in our 
upcoming Amsterdam showroom.

1.    Building Research Establishment Environmental Assessment Method.

Chemicals 
We apply a rigorous chemical 
management system that helps ensure we 
remain in full compliance with all relevant 
chemical-related regulations, as well as a 
Restricted Substance List (RSL). This 
covers our own operation and our Tier 1 
suppliers, who are required to cascade 
requirements to their own suppliers. In 
FY23, we initiated RSL audits of selected 
Tier 1 factories to further ensure their 
chemicals and RSL management practices 
meet our stringent standards. 

We also require Tier 1 and Key Tier 2 
suppliers to sign our General Material 
Requirement Policy (GMRP) to ensure  
our products comply with relevant 
product safety legislation and broader 
requirements. The GMRP is reviewed 
annually and is aligned with the legal 
testing requirements within all of the 
countries in which we operate.

Water 
Tanneries represent a key area of impact 
in terms of water management (including 
water use and wastewater emissions). 
This is why we require our Tier 1 suppliers 
to only use leather from LWG certified 
tanneries in our products. This means 
tanneries that are compliant with the 
LWG audit protocol are aligned with the 
Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals 
(ZDHC) requirements. The LWG audit 
process requires tanneries to manage 
their water consumption responsibly. 

Meanwhile we collect water volume data 
(among other environmental indicators) 
from our Tier 1 supplier factories on a 
quarterly basis, ensuring we have a high 
level of insight into their water use. 

   For more information on leather,  
see P78

OUR SUPPLY CHAIN
Waste 
We continue to seek ways to minimise our 
waste as we work towards our commitment 
to zero waste to landfill across our full value 
chain by 2028. This approach, which will 
require industry-level change and innovation, 
applies both to our own operations and  
to our Tier 11 and Key Tier 22 suppliers.  
In some of our sourcing countries, waste 
disposal infrastructure is less developed 
and there is a lack of actionable data 
around disposal practices. We continue to 
collect environmental data including 
waste data from our Tier 1 suppliers and 
are investigating third-party certification 
and verification of this data. 

Leather waste
Leather represents one of our most 
significant waste types by volume and we 
continue to work with external partners 
to explore how we can reduce our leather 
waste. In FY23, we launched a four-month-
long leather waste innovation project 
through Deplastify the Planet. Deplastify 
the Planet is an educational programme 
delivered by Schoolab in collaboration with 
the University of California, Berkeley. It 
explores the processing of leather offcut 
waste for use in internal componentry. 
The results will be presented once the 
project concludes in FY24.

We also launched our first ‘deadstock’ 
product line in early 2023, which is made 
using leather left over from previous 
seasons and supports our ambition to 
reduce leather waste.

PVC waste
Our Asia-based outsole suppliers and our 
Made In England factory grind up waste PVC 
from the manufacturing process and reinject 
it into the process. In the UK, any remaining 
waste (e.g. mixed colour waste) is sent to a 
partner for recycling into footwear. 

   For more information on the 
development of a bio-based PVC 
outsole, see P80

WHAT’S NEXT ?

•  Next, we plan to focus on supplier engagement and environmental certification 
to improve the measurement of environmental indicators including energy use 
and waste management 

•  We also plan to further roll out our Sustainable Store Development Guidelines  

with an initial focus on the EMEA region 

1.    We define these as suppliers that manufacture/assemble finished goods. 
2.   We define these as suppliers of ‘strategic’ components.

 FOCUS 

Our journey to supplier 
environmental certification

Engaging and supporting our 
suppliers is key to our approach to 
environmental impact management. 
Our Supplier Environmental 
Standard sets out our expectations 
for how our suppliers manage their 
environmental impacts. We also 
request environmental data from 
our Tier 1 suppliers to better 
understand their impact.

We are developing our approach 
towards the rolling out of 
environmental certification 
standards for our Tier 1 suppliers. 
These standards will help us engage 
with our suppliers and reduce our 
supply chain environmental impacts. 
We are looking to address topics 
including energy, waste, water and 
chemical management. Supporting 
our suppliers to implement 
environmental standards will play  
a material role in our progress 
towards our Scope 3 SBTs and our 
other environmental sustainability 
commitments (see our TCFD 
disclosure on page 99 for more).

We have started to engage our 
suppliers on this topic to better 
understand where to focus our 
efforts. 25% of our Tier 1 suppliers 
have declared they have an 
environmental certification in place 
(ISO 14001 or FEM Higg). 

   For additional information on 
how we responsibly manage  
our supply chain, see P94 

 FOCUS 

Our work with the Leather 
Working Group (LWG) 

   For further information on our 
ongoing work with the multi-
stakeholder LWG, see P79 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

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STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

PRODUCT

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DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

For more than six decades, we have made iconic, timeless 
and durable footwear. As brand custodians, we want to 
retain these characteristics while we move towards our 
long-term vision of a regenerative and circular product 
lifecycle. We cannot achieve this alone. This year we 
invested in a leading producer of recycled leather which  
will help us to scale and expand our product innovation.  
We have also engaged with multiple suppliers of alternative 
materials and industry stakeholders (including industry 
bodies, NGOs and universities) and continue to develop 
promising partnerships on areas ranging from regenerative 
agriculture through to end-of-life product recycling.

FOCUS AR EAS AND COMMITMENTS 

MATERIALS 

PACKAGING

   100% of footwear made from 
sustainable materials by 2040

   100% of the natural materials  
in products from regenerative 
agriculture by 2040

   Remove fossil-based chemicals 
from products by 2035

   100% of packaging from recycled or 
other sustainably sourced material  
by 2028

LIFECYCLE

   100% of products sold have a 
sustainable end-of-life option by 2040 

  For additional commitments, see P78, 81 and 82

35%

Removal of non-recyclable plastic 
foam divider from 35% of the AW23 
footwear volume

Our progr ess

RECOMMERCE

Successful launch of our 
recommerce business model 
pilot in the UK

INVESTED

in leading recycled leather producer, 
to support industry-wide adoption 
of innovative and circular materials

R ELATED UN SDGS

   To find out more, see our SDG mapping exercise at: 
drmartensplc.com

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

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STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

MATERIALS

WHY IT MATTERS… 
The materials we use not only underpin the durability, 
look and feel of our footwear, but also influence  
our product lifecycle impacts. Because of this, we  
are sourcing more sustainable materials that are: 

OUR COMMITMENTS:
Innovation in design and 
sustainable materials

   100% of footwear made from 
sustainable materials by 2040

   Sustainable alternative to 
outsoles by 2035

   Sustainable vegan upper 
material by 2028

•  Durable and deliver on the quality needed for  

our iconic footwear

•  Recycled, renewable and/or regenerative
•  Produced responsibly and meet our high 

environmental and social standards

This includes our efforts to source leather that meets 
best practice traceability and environmental standards, 
and to identify and develop regenerative leather supply 
options. Similarly, we are actively exploring bio-based 
and recycled thermoplastics for our outsoles, as well as 
more sustainable vegan upper materials, without ever 
compromising on durability or quality.

Land, biodiversity and 
ecosystems impacts of  
raw material production

   100% of the natural materials 
in products from regenerative 
agriculture by 2040

   Remove fossil-based chemicals 
from products by 2035

   Zero deforestation by 2025

   100% leather traceability for  
all countries by 2024

   100% upper leather from LWG 
by 2023

   See P94 for more information on how we responsibly manage our 
supply chain.

WHAT WE’RE DOING…

We continue to focus on improving the 
sustainability of the materials we use, 
developing innovative new materials and 
building and embedding the management 
systems we need to support us on this 
journey. In FY23, we began the 
development of a new Product Lifecycle 
Management (PLM) system with support 
from external specialists. Once fully 
operational, this will deliver enhanced 
visibility across our product lifecycle. It 
will enable us to closely monitor, manage 
and report on our progress towards 
meeting our sustainability commitments 
and key performance indicators (KPIs), 
including those focused on deforestation 
and material traceability. 

LEATHER 
At Dr. Martens, we have been making 
leather footwear for over 60 years.  
The unique characteristics of leather 
contribute to the durable and long-lasting 
nature of our products. It is our most 
commonly used upper material and will 
continue to be a key material for us going 
forward. Through our sustainability 
commitments we are focused on sourcing 
traceable, deforestation-free and 

regenerative leather. Sourcing lower 
carbon alternatives to leather will also 
help us on our journey to Net-Zero. 

Enhancing traceability 
The leather supply chain is complex  
and the hides used to create the leather 
we source are a by-product of the food 
industry. Being able to trace where our 
leather comes from is the starting point 
for ensuring it is not associated with 
deforestation or other negative 
environmental, social and animal welfare 
impacts. In AW22, 87% of our leather  
was traceable back to the abattoir1.

We are working closely with our tannery 
partners to enhance their own traceability 
processes while reviewing our supplier 
base to meet our commitment for 100% 
leather traceability by 2024 (back to the 
abattoir). We are also investigating supply 
chain traceability platforms to support 
our longer-term aim of tracing individual 
leather purchases back to the farm. 

We currently co-chair the LWG 
Traceability Working Group (see page 79), 
through which we support collective 
efforts to enhance traceability further 
across the leather value chain. 

FIGURE 42: Traceability  
to the abattoir for leather 
purchases (%)

Traceability to the abattoir

100%

SS19

AW19

SS20

AW20

n
o
s
a
e
S

SS21

AW21

SS22

AW22

61%

58%

64%

70%

73%

80%

80%

87%

 KPI 

IN PROGRESS 

87% 

of our leather is traceable (AW22) 
(targeting 100% by 2024)

1.    Our traceability percentage is currently based on LWG audit data, which assesses each tannery on the basis of what proportion of their leather is traceable back  

to the abattoir. 

2.   Since our previous report, AW21, SS22 and AW22 traceability percentages have been updated using final leather volumes purchased (forecast data was used 

previously). We will continue to use actual leather volumes to report our traceability progress going forward to avoid amendments where possible.

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DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Beyond leather supply chains, other 
materials we source for packaging, store 
design and product components could also 
be at risk of contributing to deforestation. 
Therefore, we are working to integrate our 
zero deforestation requirements into our 
PLM system (see page 78) to enable 
deforestation-free sourcing across all of 
the materials we use.

Reducing processing impacts
We aim to source all our leather from LWG 
certified tanneries. In the Spring Summer 
23 season, 100% of our upper leather came 
from LWG certified tanneries. In Autumn 
Winter 23, this dipped to 98%, because the 
LWG certification for one of our tanneries 
expired. This temporary lapse in 
certification falls short of our expectations 
for our nominated tannery base. 

We remain fully committed to sourcing 
exclusively from LWG certified tanneries 
by ensuring all our tanneries get certified 
on time and remain compliant. In addition, 
all other specified leather (lining leather, 
leather goods, leather laces, footbeds) 
continues to come from LWG certified 
tanneries. Sourcing LWG leather is an 
ongoing journey and we remain focused 
on working closely with tanneries which 
are committed to continually improving 
their performance. 

Tanneries with LWG certification have 
responsible environmental management 
practices in place and comply with LWG 
standards relating to energy use, water, 
chemicals and waste management. For 
more information on the LWG go to  
www.leatherworkinggroup.com

Supporting regenerative 
agriculture 
We have committed to 100% of the 
natural materials in our products coming 
from regenerative agriculture by 2040.  
In our FY20 baseline assessment, a total 
of 33.6% of our total carbon footprint 
related to leather production and while 
the leather we source is a by-product  
of the food industry, more than 70%  
of that figure is associated with the 
raising of cattle1. This is why regenerative 
leather sourcing presents a significant 
opportunity to enhance our 
decarbonisation efforts as we pursue 
Net-Zero emissions (see page 72). 

In FY23, we began exploring partnership 
options for regenerative leather, including 
engagement with: 

•  UK-based suppliers to explore the 
development of traceable leather 
supply chains, including from 
regenerative farms in the UK through 
to our Made In England factory 

•  An existing international tannery partner 
to enhance their traceability systems 
and identify new and more sustainable 
farming sources for our leather 

This work is inextricably linked to our 
commitment for zero deforestation by 
2025, which in turn will support our 
pathway to Net-Zero (see page 72 and  
our TCFD disclosure on pages 99 to 107).  
As a baseline due diligence requirement, 
tanneries sourcing raw material from 
Brazil must provide additional traceability 
information to demonstrate they are not 
sourcing from deforested areas, but we  
are going further than this to improve 
traceability across the value chain. In FY23, 
we started working with the World Wide 
Fund for Nature (WWF) to map potential 
deforestation exposure in our leather 
supply chain. We also continued our 
partnership with the LWG plus other 
industry peers to develop industry 
standards for deforestation-free leather 
supply chains and explore models of 
farm-level support to cease cattle-driven 
deforestation and restore environments. 

 FOCUS 

Embedding our DRP 
Sustainable Materials Criteria 

Our DRP Sustainable Materials 
Criteria2 (‘DRP Criteria’) provide a 
consistent framework to help guide 
our journey towards meeting our 
sustainable materials commitments. 
In FY23, we applied our DRP Criteria 
across a range of workstreams, 
including our ongoing efforts to 
source and test sustainable leather 
alternatives (see page 80).

FIGURE 5: Leather sourced 
from LWG certified 
tanneries (%) 

Leather % from Leather Working Group
100%

SS20

AW20

SS21

n
o
s
a
e
S

AW21

SS22

AW22

SS23

AW23

98%

99%

99%

100%

100%

100%

100%

98%

  Upper leather

 KPI 

ONGOING 

98% 

of our upper leather is from 
LWG certified tanneries.  
In addition, all other specified 
leather, including linings,  
leather goods, laces and 
footbeds, now also comes  
from LWG certified tanneries.

1.    The apportionment of cattle raising emissions is taken from the EU’s Leather PEFCR, which is the methodology followed for our FY20 baseline assessment.
2.   We have developed a consistent framework to ensure materials selected consider all our sustainability requirements, rather than only looking at one sustainability 
aspect. We have called this our DRP Sustainable Materials Criteria, which evaluates if materials are 1. Durable, 2. Recycled, renewable and/or regenerative and 3. 
Produced responsibly. The full definition can be found on our plc website.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

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STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

Exploring leather alternatives 
Leather is a key material for us and  
will continue to be so as we focus on 
sourcing traceable, deforestation-free  
and regenerative leather which supports 
our ambition to leaving things better  
than we found them. It is also important 
we investigate and invest in leather 
alternatives, which forms part of our 
approach to achieving Net-Zero emissions. 

In March 2023, we announced an exciting 
new partnership with Gen Phoenix, a 
leading producer of recycled leather. 
During FY24, we are planning to launch 
product which contains the recycled 
leather material made using leather  
waste from tanneries that was previously 
destined for landfill. 

In addition, we continued to work with 
multiple partners to develop and test 
bio-based vegan materials. Our current 
vegan range is made from a synthetic  
PU (polyurethane) material and does  
not currently meet our DRP1 Sustainable 
Materials Criteria. We are actively 
investigating alternatives in line with our 
commitment to have a sustainable vegan 
upper material by 2028. This included 
ongoing wear trials, as well as 
performance and manufacturing testing. 
We had planned to launch our first 
bio-based vegan material in our Spring 
Summer 2023 range. However, final testing 
showed that more development work is 
required to ensure the material meets our 
high durability and quality standards, 
which we will never compromise on. 

PVC
Exploring bio-based outsoles 
The majority of our outsoles are made 
using the hard-wearing and long-lasting 
plastic PVC, which has been our most 
commonly used outsole material for over 
60 years. Due to the highly recyclable 
nature of PVC, our PVC outsoles have a 
level of post-production waste blended 
back in meaning the process is very low 
waste. But we recognise that the creation 
of PVC requires the use of fossil fuels  
and chemicals. 

Because of this, we continue to investigate 
the use of lower-carbon, bio-based 
alternative outsole materials, in line with 
our commitment to develop a sustainable 
alternative outsole by 2035. In FY23, this 
included the commissioning of independent 
testing on a bio-based outsole alternative, 
with positive initial results. Further testing 
is being undertaken to ensure the material 
meets our DRP Criteria and is fully aligned 
to our sustainability strategy. 

In addition, we continue to explore more 
sustainable alternatives to Ethylene-vinyl 
acetate (EVA), which is used in some of 
our outsoles, midsoles, footbeds and 
fillers. These efforts saw the integration 
of a new 50% bio-based EVA footbed into 
our Autumn Winter 2022 accessory range. 

OTHER COMPONENTS
We are also working to increase the 
sustainability of our other components, 
including the adoption of recycled content 
rather than virgin materials, wherever 
possible. As a result of these ongoing 
efforts, we now have:

•  100% recycled polyester in standard 

heel loops

•  Over 60% recycled content in metallic 

heel loops 

•  100% recycled content in luxe faux fur

•  100% recycled polyester content in 

cushioned insoles

•  20% recycled polyester in standard 

round black laces 

The testing, utilisation and consolidation 
of more sustainable materials in the 
componentry across our product ranges 
is an ongoing area of focus. 

WHAT’S NEXT ?

Next, we plan to:
•  Commence the rollout of the first phase 

of our new PLM system in FY24

•  Continue to explore potential partnerships 

with regenerative leather suppliers

•  Continue to test alternative materials 
including bio-based vegan materials 
and recycled leather and put these  
into production once they have met  
our standards 

1.    Durable, Recycled/Renewable/Regenerative, Produced Responsibly.

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DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

PACKAGING

WHY IT MATTERS… 
Packaging is one of our top sourced 
materials and offers a significant 
opportunity to reduce our impact through 
material reduction and responsible 
sourcing. The majority is used in our 
supply chain to ensure our products are 
delivered without damage. This is why  
we are actively seeking ways to:

•  Reduce the packaging we use

•  Where it is required, replace  
it with recycled and/or more 
sustainable alternatives

•  Ensure our packaging can also  

be recycled

OUR COMMITMENTS:
Packaging

   100% packaging from recycled  
or other sustainably sourced 
materials by 2028

WHAT WE’RE DOING…

OPTIMISING AND MINIMISING  
OUR PACKAGING 
We continue to focus on minimising our 
packaging, including the removal of 
non-recyclable and difficult to recycle 
materials. Our Packaging Guiding 
Principles help guide our efforts towards 
the achievement of our packaging 
commitments, including for 100% of 
packaging to come from recycled or other 
sustainably sourced material by 2028. 

For example, non-recyclable plastic foam 
inserts will be removed from all styles that 
do not require it for protective purposes. 
This will be carried out in a phased 
approach, first from 35% of the Autumn 
Winter 23 footwear volume, in line with our 
End-of-life Hierarchy (see page 82). We are 
investigating a sustainable alternative for 
products which require protection.

In FY23, we also rolled out optimised 
ecommerce shipping bags across our 
EMEA region, following their successful 
implementation in the UK during the 
previous year. The bags use 50% less plastic 
by weight, with 80% recycled content  
(up from 25% under the previous design). 

WHAT’S NEXT ?

Next, we plan to:
•  Develop a sustainable protective insert 
for the remainder of our product range

•  Roll out Forest Stewardship Certified 
cardboard inner boxes across our 
product range in FY24

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STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

LIFECYCLE 

WHY IT MATTERS… 
Timeless design, quality and durability are core to  
our brand and by promoting care and repair, we help 
support our consumers to extend the life of our 
footwear even further. But even DM’s reach the end of 
the road eventually. When this happens, we want to 
make sure there are sustainable end-of-life solutions 
available. This includes repair and resale, or if this is 
not possible, recycling. Collectively, this is helping 
move our business towards a more circular model. 

OUR COMMITMENTS:
Useable life

End-of-life

   All products align to sustainable 
design criteria by 2028

   Offer options and guidance for 
wearers to maximise useable 
life by 2025

   100% products sold have 
sustainable end-of-life option  
by 2040

WHAT WE’RE DOING…

In line with our lifecycle sustainability 
commitments, we continue to develop 
ways to extend the useable life of our 
footwear further. At the same time,  
we are pursuing a range of sustainable 
end-of-life solutions. 

In FY23, we developed a new End-of-life 
Hierarchy (see below) to help guide these 
efforts. The framework prioritises our 
end-of-life solutions across all our waste 
streams, in line with relevant regional 
guidelines. It provides a framework as we 
work towards our commitment to zero waste 
to landfill by 2028 (for more see page 75).

Our End-of-life Hierarchy

PREVENTION
Reducing materials 
reaching end of life, 
wherever possible

REUSE
Enabling reuse to maintain 
equal material value for as 
long as possible

RECYCLING
Creating new products from materials 
that have reached the end of their 
primary use, with equal material value

RECOVERY
Generating energy from materials

DISPOSAL
Final disposal of materials,  
with value lost

CREATING FOOTWEAR THAT LASTS
Sustainable by design 
At the end of FY23, we completed the 
development of a new training programme 
for teams involved in product creation 
including the design, development and 
product category teams. The programme 
focuses on two areas:

1.  The environmental impact of design and 
the principles we can apply to reduce 
this impact.

2. How we can apply these principles at 
Dr. Martens by introducing an internal 
design handbook, which focuses on the 

core principles behind our product: 
timelessness, durability, functionality 
and sustainable material selection.

We will roll out this training programme  
to the product creation teams within the 
first quarter of FY24. Further to this, we 
will introduce the programme to other 
teams involved in the development of our 
products, such as our materials teams. 
This will help us continue to embed a 
‘sustainable by design’ mindset across 
Dr. Martens.

Dematerialisation

Prevention

Reuse

Repair

Recycling

Downcycling

Incineration:  
energy recovery

Incineration:  
no energy recovery

Landfill

P
r
i
o
r
i
t
y

   See P75 for our commitment to zero landfill waste 

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DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 FOCUS 

Giving footwear a second life: The launch of our recommerce pilot in the UK

1

2

4

3

In April 2022, we launched our first 
recommerce business model pilot in 
the UK. The pilot focused on repairing 
and reselling previously worn DM’s, 
helping to extend their useable life. 

Recommerce is a key project under the 
DOCS business strategy (pages 30 to 31) 
and presents a valuable opportunity for 
Dr. Martens. The secondhand footwear 
market is growing rapidly. Launching 
repair and branded resale allows us to 
progress towards our sustainability 
objectives while also connecting with  
a core subset of consumers. Our brand 
survey has shown that 31% of 
Dr. Martens customers globally have 
purchased DM’s secondhand and 
offering branded resale allows us to 
ensure the quality and authenticity of 
the customer experience. 

Recommerce has also been identified as 
a key opportunity to progress towards 
our Net-Zero ambition. More details on 
our wider approach to climate risk 
mitigation can be found in our TCFD 
report on pages 99 to 107. 

DM’s sold under the UK initiative are 
primarily sourced from worn consumer 
and wholesale returns that require 
repair and cannot be worn. They are 
restored by our partner, The Boot 
Repair Company, to a quality where 
they can be offered to consumers 
exclusively via our online shop on 
Depop. Our UK recommerce store is 
one of the most popular shops on 
Depop globally. 

During FY23 (April – end February):

•  Over 3,500 pairs of DM’s have been 
purchased and given a second life  
via the initiative

•  The average review score from 

consumers is 4.9 out of 5 (from a 
total of over 870 reviews on Depop)

Based on the success of the pilot, we 
are now in the final planning stage  
of launching recommerce in the US.  
We are also exploring launching the 
initiative in other international regions.

Care, repair and customisation 
We help our wearers maximise the life of 
their DM’s by sharing tips through our 
marketing, sales and social media channels 
on how to properly care for them, such as 
our ‘Boot Doctor’ content series. 

We are also working on the launch of a 
direct-to-consumer repair service trial  
in the UK, as well as exploring direct-to-
consumer repair in other regions, while 
being mindful of the importance of 
localisation for our carbon footprint.

 KPI 

ACHIEVED 

TRAINING
on sustainable design thinking 
and principles was developed in 
FY23. It will be rolled out in FY24. 

Customisation, creativity and self-
expression are core to Dr. Martens. This  
is something we encourage through our 
in-store and online ‘DIY Docs’ campaigns 
which were included in our year-round 
Pride activations during FY23 (for more 
on how we support the LGBTQIA+ 
community, see page 90).

END-OF-LIFE RECYCLING 
Eventually all our footwear will reach its 
end-of-life, at which point recycling is the 
best option. 

In line with our commitment for 100%  
of products sold to have sustainable 
end-of-life options by 2040, we are 
continuing to work with external partners 
in the UK and Netherlands to recycle our 
footwear that cannot be repaired and 
resold into new material streams and 
products. Thanks to these partnerships, 
we now recycle all these products in the 
UK and EU. We are investigating solutions 
in America and APAC with the aim to 
establish similar partnerships. 

WHAT’S NEXT ?

Next, we plan to:
•  Launch recommerce in the US following 
the success of our UK recommerce trial

•  Launch a direct-to-consumer repair 
service trial in the UK to further 
maximise the useable life of our products

•  Explore partnerships with universities 
and industry bodies to support the 
development and scale of footwear 
recycling infrastructure

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

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STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

PEOPLE

84

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

At Dr. Martens, we are committed to creating an 
environment in which all our employees feel included, 
accepted and empowered to express themselves. Our 
approach is underpinned by our respect for human rights 
which extends to the people working in our supply chain. 
We are also proud to stand together as a global community 
to support the causes challenging social justice issues 
around the world. This year, we have continued to focus  
on putting in place solid foundations to enable business 
growth and drive momentum through our people.

FOCUS AR EAS AND COMMITMENTS 

DIVERSITY, EQUITY AND INCLUSION

The following commitments are to be achieved by 2027:

Ethnicity:

Gender:

   30% underrepresented 
communities1 in senior leadership 
roles (GLT and direct reports)

   Further information on how we 
approach Human Rights and 
Community, the other two focus 
areas of People, are set out below

   50% women in senior leadership 
roles (GLT and direct reports)

   Increase non-binary colleagues 
from 2% to 4% globally 

   Increase male representation 
across our retail stores to 40%

Our progr ess

REBELLIOUS SELF 
EXPRESSION
completed a deep dive  
to uncover the true spirit 
of Dr. Martens

100%

of our Tier 1 and Key Tier 
2 suppliers CSR audited 
met our high standards1

£2.4m

Dr. Martens Foundation 
launched the ‘Right to Be’ 
flagship programme and 
awarded 34 organisations 
a total of £2.4 million

R ELATED UN SDGS

   To find out more, see our SDG mapping exercise at: drmartensplc.com

1.   Audit results above 75% scoring for Tier 1, and above 70% for Key Tier 2, in line with Intertek Workplace 

Conditions Assessment scoring methodology.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

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STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

HELPING OUR PEOPLE THRIVE

HARNESSING OUR CULTURE 
At Dr. Martens, we are committed to building a 
culture in which our people and our business can 
thrive. In 2022, we completed a deep dive to 
uncover the true spirit of Dr. Martens. Over two 
years we took our time to understand the brand 
and the ‘yellow thread’ that unites us all. During 
this time, we spoke to over 500 of our people 
across the business as well as brand fans, investors, 
editors, cultural creators, friends and family. The 
result of this work was Rebellious Self Expression 
the DM Way.

Rebellious Self Expression is how we define  
what is unique about our brand and our culture. 
Crucially it works from the inside out. To be it 
externally we have to be it internally. As part of  
this work, we have identified three core values 
which work together to support what Rebellious 
Self Expression means:

BE
YOURSELF

Nine or 90, flamboyant or quiet, every 
day or once in a lifetime, when someone 
has their moment of Rebellious Self 
Expression and says ‘this is me’,  
we want them wearing DM’s.

ACT
COURAGEOUSLY

It takes guts to step out of our 
comfort zone, to help others do  
the same and to redefine what’s 
possible for future generations.

SHOW YOU

CARE

This is the balancing part – between 
the right to be and express ourselves, 
and the responsibility to use those 
rights for the greater good. 

   For more on our Culture and Values  
see P8 and 9

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DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

BE A REBEL. STAND UP. BE WHO 
YOU ARE. DO WHAT YOU DO.

W H A T   W E  SAY, MAKE, DO
O U R  CULTURE

OURSELF

E Y

B

A

C

T 

C

O

U

R

A

G

E
O
U
S
L
Y

REBELLIOUS  
SELF EXPRESSION

SHOW YOU  C A R

E

OUR CULTU R E

WHAT WE STAND  U P   F O R

THRIVE

In September 2022 we launched Rebellious 
Self Expression and our values at Time  
for Tomorrow (T4T), our annual global 
leadership event. At T4T this year, c. 90 of 
our senior leaders from around the globe 
came together in person for a three-day 
event. This was a significant moment in 
the FY23 Dr. Martens calendar. This was 
the first time many of our leaders had the 
opportunity to meet their global peers  
in our leadership community. Read more 
about T4T as part of our employee 
engagement approach on page 25.

Since the launch of Rebellious Self 
Expression at T4T, our leaders have been 
playing a key role in the roll out of our 
values. They have been supporting their 
teams to understand and interpret what 
our values mean to them. To enable these 
conversations we launched a Rebellious 
Self Expression toolkit in 2023. 

Next we plan to look at every aspect of 
our culture and ways of working to ensure 
Rebellious Self Expression and our values 
show up consistently throughout the 
employee experience at DM’s. 

   For more on Rebellious Self Expression 
and what it means for our brand see P8

LISTENING TO AND ENGAGING  
OUR PEOPLE
At DM’s we work hard to make sure our 
people across the globe feel engaged 
about working for us. We carry out an 
engagement survey every year to 
understand the lived experience of our 
people across Dr. Martens. The survey 
forms part of our wider listening strategy 
and this year took place in March 2023. 
87% of our people completed the survey 
(representing 2,999 people in total).

In addition to our engagement survey we 
also carry out an annual programme of 
NED Listening sessions with our Employee 
Voice NED Robyn Perris. For more on 
these sessions please see page 138.

 FOCUS 

Insights from our 2023 Engagement and  
Inclusion Survey

Our March 2023 Engagement and Inclusion Survey highlighted where we  
are doing well and where we need to do better. All areas of performance  
are scored on a 0 to 5 scale, where 5 is the best possible score. 

Accepted

Included

Equipped

Valued

Growing

Inspired

Action

4.26

4.21

4.01

4.01

3.70

3.67

3.64

5

Performance areas: 

Accepted: Agree that Dr. Martens 
encourages diversity

Included: Feel you can express yourself  
at work

Equipped: Feel empowered and set up  
for success

Valued: Feel that your voice and 
contribution matters

Growing: Keep evolving in your work  
and as a person

Inspired: Inspired to be part of 
Dr. Martens’ future

Action: Feel that positive action has 
taken place since the last survey

We are pleased to see that feeling 
Included continues to be a high 
scoring factor and a hallmark of our 
culture. Building on this, we continue 
to score highly in Accepting, which 
encompasses our diversity measures. 
This factor has improved from 4.13  
in 2021 to 4.26 in the most recent 
survey. A strong upward trend that 
we are working hard to maintain. 

In addition, our Action measure has 
increased from 3.58 to 3.64. We 
believe strongly that engagement 
happens at a local level and will 
continue to work with our managers 
and teams so they feel empowered  
to take positive action to drive 
engagement in their areas. 

For the first time this year, we have 
included questions to measure how 
well we are living our values (page 8) 
across the business:

This is a strong start to embedding 
our values across the business. The 
insight we have gained here will be 
used to further inform our approach 
to embedding our values consistently 
across all parts of our business in 
2023 and beyond. 

We recognise that we need to build 
momentum and improve how people 
feel about Inspiration and 
opportunities to Grow at Dr. Martens 
and will continue our efforts in this 
regard into the year ahead. 

In summary, our overall engagement 
score was 3.98. This was a slight 
decrease on last year (4.03) and has 
meant that we have missed our 
Executive Directors’ bonus target.  
For more information, see page 145. 

I understand

I believe

I see

4.25

4.23

3.91

5

Performance areas: 

I have a good understanding of the values

I believe in the values

I see those around me living the values

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

87

STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

HELPING OUR PEOPLE GROW
For our business to grow, we need to help 
our people grow. This means ensuring 
they are supported with direction and 
expectation, opportunities for 
development and tools and resources that 
will help them achieve their own long-
term performance and development 
goals. It also means implementing our 
new Leadership Framework, to help us:

•  Attract, engage and retain our  

best leaders

•  Build a long-term talent pipeline

•  Ensure effective succession planning

In FY23, we articulated what it means  
to be an exceptional leader at DM’s and 
activated a pilot leadership group to test 
assessment, development and recruitment 
initiatives that will bring our framework 
and behaviours to life. We also continued 
to invest in our established global support 
of leadership skills development for  
our newest leaders and training to target 
personal effectiveness, difficult 
conversations and feedback.

SUPPORTING WELLBEING 
We are committed to taking a holistic  
view towards the mental, social, physical 
and financial wellbeing of our people. This 
includes the ongoing implementation of our 
voluntary global Mental Health Network, as 
well as our free and confidential Employee 
Assistance Programme. These initiatives are 
supplemented by our regular educational 
events around mental wellbeing, our annual 
volunteering allowance and our learning 
and development programmes.

 FOCUS 

 FOCUS 

Future Ready Workplace
Following the Covid-19 pandemic, the world has 
changed, and so have we. Our blended Future Ready 
Workplace lets people get the job done wherever they 
are. Our office-based people now spend between 40% 
and 60% of their time in our office ‘hubs’, meaning 
they can enjoy the best of flexible working with the 
cohesion, connection and culture that comes from 
working face to face with colleagues.

Addressing the impact of rising living costs  
on our people 
In the last quarter of 2022, we made additional cost-of-
living payments to all employees in Bangladesh, Europe, 
South Korea and the United States up to a defined 
earnings threshold. This was in recognition of an acute 
rise in living costs in these countries, including heating 
costs in particular. In addition, we established a Hardship 
Fund open to all employees around the world to help 
those who need it, irrespective of location or earnings. 
For more information see our s172 Statement on page 23.

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DIVERSITY, EQUITY AND INCLUSION 

WHY IT MATTERS… 
Diversity, equity and inclusion (DE&I)  
is the foundation of cultivating an 
environment in which we can all be our 
best. This not only aligns with our values, 
but also supports our efforts to develop 
passionate, creative and resilient teams. 
It ensures that our brand reflects the 
communities in which we work; and means 
we can attract great talent. Above all, it is 
about ensuring that everyone who works 
for us feels accepted, included and valued.

OUR COMMITMENTS:
The following commitments are to be 
achieved by 2027:

Ethnicity

   30% underrepresented communities1 
in senior leadership roles (GLT and 
direct reports)

Gender 

   50% women in senior leadership 
roles (GLT and direct reports)

   Increase male representation across 
our retail stores to 40%

In FY22, we achieved our target to 
increase non-binary colleagues from  
2% to 4% globally and we aim to 
maintain this in future years.

WHAT WE’RE DOING…

A FAIR, MORE INCLUSIVE WORKPLACE 
We want to make sure Dr. Martens reflects 
the communities in which we work. We 
also want to learn from evolving peer best 
practice when it comes to race, gender 
and leadership. This is why we take part in 
a range of external initiatives, including 
Diversity in Retail, Change the Ratio, CEO 
Action and the Diversity and Inclusion in 
Asia Network. 

Additional initiatives included: 
•  Implementation of a new playbook to 
help diversify the pool of candidates 
looking to work with us and to inspire 
them to grow with us.

•  The ongoing development of our 

underlying Human Resources systems 
including in relation to our reward 
structure, benchmarking capabilities 
and talent attraction, as well as the 
scope and comprehensiveness of our 
DE&I data. 

WHAT DO WE STAND FOR? 
RACIAL AND ETHNIC 
EQUITY. SEXUAL 
ORIENTATION EQUITY. 
GENDER EQUITY. SOCIAL 
MOBILITY. SUSTAINABILITY.

1.     Black, Asian & Latinx.

 FOCUS 

Our DE&I strategy

Our DE&I strategy guides our ongoing efforts to develop a fair, more inclusive 
workplace. This section sets out some of the key initiatives we are implementing 
to deliver on this strategy. 

Training
Offer training and 
education across 
the business

Talent 
attraction 
Attract talent  
from the widest 
possible base

Race
Promote racial fluency 
and ensure people of 
colour are represented 
in leadership roles

DE&I 
strategy

Process
Understand  
impact by applying 
measurable policies 
and practices

Data
Use data to generate 
representation insight 
and drive change

Gender
Achieve equitable 
gender representation 
across the business

 FOCUS 

Our DE&I Learning programme

FY23 was the first full year in which 
we implemented our DE&I Learning 
programme, which is available to all 
our senior leaders and those working 
in our Human Resources team. This 
includes a focus on conscious and 
unconscious bias, inclusive language 
and the promotion of an inclusive 
mindset. In addition, our Human 
Resource Leadership Team and 

America Leadership Team implemented 
learnings they took from their FY22 
participation in inclusive leadership 
pilots, with the same training to be 
rolled out to our UK and EMEA 
Leadership Teams in FY24. Beyond this, 
all new employees are encouraged to 
complete DE&I training. 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

89

STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

 FOCUS 

 HOW WE’RE DOING  

Making sure our stores  
in the US reflect the 
communities they serve

We are conducting DE&I listening 
sessions with our store managers 
in the US to discuss how we can 
be more inclusive and reflective 
of the communities that shop in 
our stores. This includes localised 
approaches to store design such 
as locally relevant murals and 
other approaches. 

Our DE&I commitments are to be achieved by 2027.

Ethnicity: 
30% underrepresented 
communities2 in 
senior leadership 
roles (GLT and  
direct reports) 

Gender: 
50% women in 
senior leadership 
roles (GLT and  
direct reports)  

Increase non-binary 
colleagues from 2% 
to 4% globally  

Increase male 
representation 
across our retail 
stores to 40%  

 FY23

22% 

(FY22: 20.6%)

 FY23

36% 

(FY22: 43.6%)

 FY23

6% 

(FY22: 4%)

 FY23

27% 

(FY22: 29%)

1.  These values are based on voluntary disclosure in accordance with regional regulations.
2.  Black, Asian & Latinx.

Ethnicity 
In addition to encouraging open 
conversation, learning and understanding 
around issues of ethnicity, we continued to 
address potential biases and enhance our 
racial fluency. This included the holding  
of the following events to celebrate Black 
History Month in October 2022: 

•  A fireside chat with Ije Nwokorie, our 

independent NED, regarding his journey 
as a black British leader. 

•  A presentation from the Foundation  
for Women’s Health, Research and 
Development (FORWARD), a charity 
supported by the Dr. Martens Foundation. 

•  A talk from the European Network 

Against Racism (ENAR), one of the five 
new Right to Be programme partners  
of the Dr. Martens Foundation (more  
on page 92), on how to best support 
anti-racism efforts. 

Gender 
In FY23, we continued working with 
non-profit organisation Catalyst to make 
sure we are supporting women in our 
workplace. On 8 March 2023, we 
celebrated International Women’s Day 
(IWD) across our global locations by 
championing women in our business. 
Catalyst hosted an educational webinar 
for our people on ‘Positive change by 
embracing equity’. We also hosted our 
first-ever external-focused content series 
around IWD, hosting an open conversation 
between women working in the music 
industry on representation and how to 
create a safer, more nurturing 
environment for everyone. We closed out 
the month with a Male Allies Workshop 
and Leadership Panel discussion featuring 
women from different functions within 
the business.

During FY23 in the US, we introduced the 
Reproductive Healthcare Programme 
following the overturning of Roe v. Wade. 
Dr. Martens believes that employees should 
have a choice in their reproductive 
healthcare options, as well as access to 
such options. The programme offers a cash 
benefit and paid time off to assist eligible 
employees who need to travel out of state 
to access reproductive healthcare (or to 
accompany an immediate family member) 
that is unavailable in their home state.

LGBTQIA+
The foundations of our brand are built on 
the communities that wear our products. 
The LGBTQIA+ community has been 
integral in shaping Dr. Martens into what 
it is today, which is also reflected in our 
employee base as almost a third of our 
people identify as LGBTQIA+. Through 
collaboration and partnership, we are 
committed to ensuring that the LGBTQIA+ 
community continues to be part of 
shaping and inspiring our future through 
our year-round Pride activations. 
Examples of activations in FY23 include:

•  Co-creation: The four-part ‘Pride 

Generations’ film series showcasing the 
coming together of cross-generational 
LGBTQIA+ communities.

•  Partnerships with charities and 

organisations: Donating over £178,000 
in financial support to global LGBTQIA+ 
organisations (for further details see 
page 92).

•  Education and learning from the 
community: Three episodes were 
shared on TikTok in partnership with 
Rainbow History Class to educate the 
DM’s audience about the history of 
DM’s and the LGBTQIA+ community. 
This was hugely successful, breaking 
our engagement benchmarks and 
driving 254K total engagements.

We also continued to produce a Pride 
product, this time in the 1461 silhouette, 
to pay tribute to those who engage and 
support the Pride movement. The DM’s 
Anti-Hate Social Policy was also updated 
to outline our approach to managing 
Pride questions and hateful comments.

Social mobility
We believe that everyone should be able 
to achieve their full potential. That is why 
we are implementing recruitment and 
selection practices that support social 
mobility by focusing on people’s potential, 
rather than their past experiences. An 
example of this can be found in our Made 
In England apprenticeship scheme, where 
the only prerequisite is eagerness to learn 
and a passion for DM’s. A total of 54 
people have graduated from the scheme 
with six new apprentices entering the 
scheme this year. The apprenticeship 
scheme also has a strong female 
representation and has supported female 
employees into an industry which is 
historically male dominated.

WHAT’S NEXT ?

Next, we plan to:
•  Continue our efforts to increase 

representation and embed inclusive 
behaviours into our ways of working. 
This will include the review of current 
recruitment practices and the 
implementation of new recruitment 
strategies, the enhancement of our 
diversity data and the ongoing 
education of our leaders and employees. 

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DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
HUMAN RIGHTS

WHY IT MATTERS… 
Respecting human rights is a matter of 
integrity and is fundamental to how we 
show up at Dr. Martens. We are 
committed to respecting the rights of 
our people and those in our supply chain 
which we demonstrate through supplier 
engagement, monitoring and education. 
We will always expect high standards of 
each other and our supply partners.

WHAT WE’RE DOING…

RESPECTING HUMAN RIGHTS IN OUR 
SUPPLY CHAIN
Our commitment to respecting human 
rights is reflected in, and supported by, our 
DOCtrine (our business code of conduct), 
Supplier Code of Conduct, Migrant Worker 
Policy, Anti-Slavery and Human Trafficking 
Policy and our DE&I strategy. 

Human rights are universal and are as 
applicable in our own workplace as they 
are in our supply chain. When it comes  
to our own employees, we offer an 
independent, confidential hotline through 
which people can raise human rights 
concerns and grievances if they arise. 

CSR monitoring programme
We manage human rights risks in our 
supply chain through our CSR monitoring 
programme. This is applied to the 
onboarding and subsequent monitoring of 
our Tier 1 suppliers, as well as Key Tier 2 
suppliers. Under this programme, we 
conduct audits focused on suppliers’ 
compliance with relevant labour laws, 
regulations and industry standards, as 
well as our own policies (including our 
Supplier Code of Conduct). 

Our Supplier Code of Conduct is based  
on the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI)  
Base Code and applies a range of detailed 
supplier obligations. These obligations 
aim to ensure that those working in our 
supply chain can (for example): 

•  Freely choose employment 

•  Freely associate and take part  

in collective bargaining 

•  Not be subject to child labour

•  Not be subject to discrimination

   For further information on our 
supplier audit activity, see P94 

WHAT’S NEXT ?

Anti-modern slavery programme 
We are continuing to raise awareness 
among our employees around human rights 
and around modern slavery in particular. 
Employees have access to human rights 
and ethical trade training, which in FY23 
was supplemented by the global rollout of a 
dedicated modern slavery training module. 
We also implement measures to address 
modern slavery risks in the supply chain 
(page 95). 

Next, we plan to: 
•  Further integrate human rights into  
our third-party due diligence process 
(see page 95) and work with third-party 
experts to carry out a formal human 
rights risk assessment.

•  Identify and implement a supply chain 
mapping tool that will help us better 
understand our supply chain and 
identify related human rights and 
modern slavery risks (among others).

   For further information on  
our broader anti-modern slavery 
efforts, see our latest Modern  
Slavery Statement see our latest 
Modern Slavery Statement at  
www.drmartensplc.com 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

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STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

COMMUNITY

WHY IT MATTERS… 
We are committed to playing a positive 
role in society at a local and global level. 
This is reflected in our values: be yourself, 
act courageously and show you care. 
These capture how we show up and stand 
up for the things we believe in and we 
want our people to feel they can do the 

WHAT WE’RE DOING…

TAKING DIRECT ACTION
We are proud of our record of supporting 
social justice. This includes our focus on 
anti-racism, LGBTQIA+ rights and positive 
mental health. 

Key areas of action in FY23 are set out 
below. These initiatives are in addition to 
our provision of a two-day volunteering 
allowance to our employees. In addition, 
we also encourage our colleagues in the 
US to use their paid Juneteenth holiday 
to give back to their local communities. 

DELIVERING CHANGE THROUGH  
THE DR. MARTENS FOUNDATION
In parallel, the Dr. Martens Foundation  
(an independent grant-making charity 
founded in the UK in 2021) implements a 
structured programme to champion social 
justice. It is focused on addressing both 
the immediate needs of underserved 
communities as well as the underlying 
drivers of injustice. The Dr. Martens 
Foundation’s grant-making is focused  
on two areas: grassroots grants and its 
new flagship ‘Right to Be’ programme.  
In FY23 the Foundation awarded 34 
organisations a total of £2.4m.

same. This means giving a voice to the 
issues that need raising, supporting the 
communities who need it and providing 
funding to causes we support. Much of 
our impact in this regard is delivered 
through the Dr. Martens Foundation.

 FOCUS 

Ongoing financial support for LGBTQIA+ champions 

We are committed to ensuring the 
LGBTQIA+ community continues to 
play a part in and shape Dr. Martens’ 
future through our year-round Pride 
activations. Partnership is a key focus 
and throughout FY23 we donated over 
£178,000 in financial support to 
LGBTQIA+ organisations including  

The Trevor Project in the US, The Albert 
Kennedy Trust, Arcigay and Jugend 
gegen AIDS in EMEA, and ReBit in APAC.

For further information on how we are 
supporting the LGBTQIA+ community, 
see page 90. 

The Foundation’s four pillars of social justice

HUMAN 
RIGHTS
Protecting and 
respecting 
everyone’s human 
rights so that  
they can enjoy 
basic rights  
and freedoms

PARTICIPATION
Ensuring people 
are involved with 
decisions that 
govern their  
lives, particularly 
those that are 
marginalised and 
excluded in society

EQUITY
Impartiality, 
fairness and 
justice for all 
people in society 
with a focus on 
eradicating system 
inequalities and 
embedded biases

ACCESS
People should 
have equal access 
to resources 
including 
education,  
health care and 
employment 
opportunities

£2.4m

donated to 34 organisations 
by the Dr. Martens Foundation 
in FY23

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DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Right to Be programme

The Right to Be programme was 
launched in FY23 and is focused on 
changing the systems that perpetuate 
inequities. This includes the provision 
of more substantial grants to larger 
organisations focused on addressing 
issues around race, gender and 
LGBTQIA+ rights, among others. 

Under the programme, successful 
grantees can receive up to £600,000  
in funding over three years.

Five organisations were selected to 
receive £1.9m in funding over the next 
two to three years through the Right  
to Be programme. They are:

£1.9m

in funding for five organisations 
in the next two to three years

European Network 
Against Racism

National Black 
Justice Coalition

The Women’s 
Foundation

Outright Action 
International

Location

Europe

USA

Hong Kong

Global

ReBit

Japan

Focus 
theme

Project

Anti-racism

Anti-racism & 
LGBTQ+ rights

Women’s 
empowerment 

LGBTQ+ rights

LGBTQ+ rights

Advocacy for 
policy making and 
legislation that 
ensures safe and 
secure lives for 
ethnic minorities.

Development of an 
online Action Hub 
that monitors 
LGBTQ+ and race 
laws, creates action 
alerts for members 
and connects 
members with 
policymakers.

Encouragement of 
women and girls to 
pursue Science, 
Technology, 
Engineering and 
Mathematics (STEM) 
degrees, as well as 
the encouragement 
of female leaders.

Establishment of 
LGBTIQ organisations 
in three countries, 
advocacy against the 
criminalisation of 
homosexuality in at 
least one country 
and the provision of 
support to 1,200 
LGBTIQ people 
affected by Covid-19.

Training of 
volunteer speakers 
to educate teachers 
and students  
on LGBTQ issues, 
helping ensure 
schools are safe  
for students who 
identify as LGBTQ. 

Outright International prioritises collaborations 
with purpose-driven organisations that are 
committed to authentically representing and 
serving lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, 
intersex, and queer (LGBTIQ) communities. 
Dr. Martens Foundation is one of those 
organisations. This partnership allows Outright 
to access resources and extend our reach to 
stakeholders that we otherwise might not reach.

Elise Colomer-Cheadle,  
Director of Development at Outright Action International

The grassroots grant programme
The Dr. Martens Foundation grassroots 
grant programme lets people at Dr. Martens 
nominate charities and grassroots 
organisations pursuing social justice for 
funding of up to £20,000. In FY23, 27 
grassroots grants totalling £511k were 
awarded by the Dr. Martens Foundation. 

Emergency support
The Dr. Martens Foundation can also 
provide immediate support to respond  
to emergencies and disasters. In FY23, 
this included emergency funding totalling 
£50,000 to help address the human 
impacts of the war in Ukraine. 

WHAT’S NEXT ?

The Dr. Martens Foundation now plans to 
develop its relationships with the ‘Right  
to Be’ partners, continue to fund more 
organisations through the grassroots 
grant programme and establish activities 
with a champions network through its 
corporate sponsor Dr. Martens plc. 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

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STRATEGIC REPORT 
Sustainability continued

RESPONSIBLY MANAGING  
OUR SUPPLY CHAIN 

OUR GLOBAL SUPPLY CHAIN
We are committed to fostering strong, 
collaborative partnerships with our supply 
chain partners. This helps us maintain 
strict quality standards and underpins our 
cross-value chain approach to improving 
the sustainability of our products. Most  
of our footwear and accessories are 
manufactured by our Tier 1 suppliers in 
Asia with around 1% of footwear being 
made at our Made In England factory in the 
UK. Our Tier 1 factory list is shared on our 
website and is updated every six months. 

Meanwhile, the components that go into 
our products are supplied by: 

•  Key Tier 2 suppliers, which produce 
strategic components (e.g. leather, 
outsoles)

•  Tier 2 suppliers, which produce other 
components such as linings and tags

For further information on how we manage 
our supply chain, see page 28, as well  
as our latest Modern Slavery Statement 
which can be found on our plc website. 

OUR POLICIES 
The following policies set out our supplier 
requirements:

•  Supplier Code of Conduct1 

•  Anti-Bribery and Corruption Policy 

•  Migrant Worker Policy2 

•  General Materials Requirement Policy

•  Supplier Environmental Standard 

•  Animal Derived Materials Policy 

•  Needle Policy

These policies are integrated into the 
Master Supplier Agreements we have with 
our Tier 1 suppliers. Similarly, we have 
contractual provisions that require our 
agents, distributors and franchisees to 
comply with these policies. 

HOW WE ENGAGE WITH OUR 
SUPPLIERS 
Our CSR teams work directly with new 
and existing Tier 1 and Key Tier 2 
suppliers and their factories. The teams 
are based in key sourcing locations, 
helping them respond quickly to any 
challenges. In addition, we hold regular 
Tier 1 supplier conferences throughout 
the year (approximately bi-monthly), 
where we share learnings and promote 
constructive, two-way communication. 

 FOCUS 

Responsible Purchasing 
Principles 

During FY23, we started 
conducting extensive internal 
engagement in partnership with  
an expert third party to develop 
the first iteration of our Purchasing 
Practices Charter. With clear and 
responsible principles to be applied 
to our supplier relationships, the 
aim is to:

•  Foster strong relationships that 
support sustainable practices 
in our supply chain

•  Enable us to further improve 
our buying practices, while 
generating additional insights 
into forecasting, pricing and 
other key areas for responsible 
sourcing

•  Ensure we manage clear and 
effective communication with 
our suppliers and have realistic, 
agreed expectations on things 
such as lead times and 
payment terms

The Charter builds on the 
responsible buying practices we 
have applied in the past such as 
continuing to pay our suppliers 
throughout Covid-19 and includes 
a focus on key areas such as 
production scheduling optimisation, 
forecasting and pricing.

We continue to build upon this 
work, including through supplier 
engagement to ensure we hear 
their voices and their feedback. 

1.   Based on the Ethical Trade Initiative Base Code and the conventions of the International Labour Organization. The Supplier Code of Conduct (which is reviewed 

annually) addresses issues such as forced labour, child labour, subcontracting, homeworking, and modern slavery.

2.  Based on the Dhaka Principles developed by the Institute for Human Rights and Business, and broader international best practice. 

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DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 KPI 

FY23 supplier CSR audit 
results (using WCA audit score) 

100% 

of our Tier 1 suppliers audited met 
our high performance standards in 
externally conducted CSR audits3 
(FY22: 100%)

100% 

of Key Tier 2 suppliers audited met 
our high performance standards in 
externally conducted CSR audits4 

3.   Audit results of 75% or more, in line with 

Intertek Workplace Conditions 
Assessment scoring methodology.

4.   Audit results above 70% or more, in line 

with Intertek Workplace Conditions 
Assessment scoring methodology.

 FOCUS 

Third-party due diligence

In addition to the above supplier 
engagement and monitoring 
activities, we implement a range  
of due diligence actions whenever 
we enter into new vendor 
relationships. Among other things, 
this includes a Vendor Risk 
Assessment and compliance 
screening. The level of due 
diligence depends on factors 
including the supplier’s location, 
anticipated activities and size of 
contract, and is reviewed on an 
annual basis. This process will flag 
risks associated with a supplier, 
including ethical concerns such as 
modern slavery risk and regulatory 
non-compliances. 

Monitoring audits are carried out on a 
semi-announced basis (i.e. suppliers are 
given a window of 30 days during which 
audits could take place). 

The frequency of follow-up audits is 
determined by each supplier’s audit rating, 
which is based on the severity of identified 
risks or issues. If issues are identified, we 
work collaboratively with our suppliers to 
develop corrective action plans to remedy 
non-conformances. We also carry out 
follow-up checks to ensure the corrective 
actions have been implemented. As a last 
resort, should a supplier fail to remediate 
issues identified, the supplier partnership 
is reviewed and may be ended.

In FY23, 100% of our audited Tier 1 
suppliers met our high scoring threshold in 
the WCA audit (see KPI box above). We also 
focused our Key Tier 2 audit activity on a 
selection of our highest volume suppliers. 
100% of our Key Tier 2 suppliers CSR 
audited also met our high standard.

WHAT’S NEXT ?

We are continuing to expand the number 
of Key Tier 2 suppliers that are subject  
to our CSR audits. In addition, we plan to 
identify and implement a supply chain 
mapping tool that will enhance traceability 
and transparency across our supply chain, 
helping us better understand our related 
risks and opportunities. 

1.    Suppliers that manufacture/assemble finished goods. 
2.   Suppliers of ‘strategic’ components like leather, PVC granulates and packaging material, who we engage directly. 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

95

HOW WE MONITOR PERFORMANCE 
Factory approval and monitoring takes 
place through our CSR monitoring 
programme. This includes independent, 
third-party CSR audits, which must be 
completed before we engage any new  
Tier 11 and (as of FY23) selected Key  
Tier 22 supplier factories. Audits use the 
Workplace Conditions Assessment (WCA) 
on-site audit protocol.

We also require regular (i.e. at least 
annual) monitoring of Tier 1 and selected 
Key Tier 2 supplier factories that are 
already producing our goods. This is also 
undertaken on an independent basis, 
again using the WCA on-site audit 
protocol. The protocol assesses risks 
around relevant social and environmental 
compliance issues, including those 
relating to the following, among others: 

•  Labour: Including child labour, forced 
labour, discrimination, freedom of 
association, employment contract and 
discipline, harassment and abuse

•  Wages and hours: Including working 

hours and wages and benefits

•  Health & Safety: Including work 

facilities, emergency preparedness, 
occupational injury, machine safety, 
safety hazards, hazardous materials 
and dormitories and canteens

•  Environment: Including environmental 
management systems and certifications

•  Business practices: Including issues 

ranging from integrity through to data 
protection and competition law

•  Management systems: Including issues 
ranging from social compliance policies 
through to the auditing of suppliers, 
subcontractors and labour providers

STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

SUSTAINABILITY

GOVERNANCE

   For further information on our broader 
governance structure and risk 
management framework, see P120

Sustainability governance 
structure 
The Board is responsible for the oversight 
and integration of ESG-related activities 
across the business, including the 
sustainability strategy and ESG related 
policies and practices. Our sustainability 
strategy is sponsored by our Chief People 
and Sustainability Officer (CPSO), Emily 
Reichwald. The Sustainability Committee 
assists the Board in meeting its oversight 
responsibilities by providing review and 
direction for the sustainability strategy.  
It is chaired by our CEO, Kenny Wilson, 
and includes our COO, CPO and CMO plus 
other key functional heads. In this year’s 
Board meetings, ESG and sustainability-
related discussions included Science-
Based Targets, investment in a materials 
innovation partner, funding for the 
Dr. Martens Foundation and employee 
engagement progress.

The Sustainability Committee reports 
directly to the Board and provides regular 
updates to help determine the focus and 
direction of the strategy. In FY23, the 
Sustainability Committee met bi-monthly, 
with our working groups feeding into 
these meetings as appropriate. 

The purpose of the working groups are:

•  Operations: To ensure high standards 
across DM’s operations and supplier 
base, focusing on maintaining high  
CSR standards and minimising 
environmental impacts. 

•  Materials and packaging: To identify 
and deliver material sustainability 
improvements across all DM’s products 
and packaging.

•  Lifecycle: To reduce the impact of DM’s 
products throughout their lifecycle 
from design to use to end-of-life. 

•  In November 2022, we initiated a new 

Sustainability Communications Working 
Group which helps guide the direction, 
delivery and review of our external 
sustainability-related communications. 

During FY23 we also established the 
Recommerce Steering Committee (which 
held its first meeting in February 2023):

•  Its purpose is to advance the repair and 

resale opportunities globally and 
incorporate recommerce into the Group’s 
strategic direction and financial planning. 
It is chaired by our CFO and meets 
approximately every six weeks (more 
detail on this and the TCFD Steering 
Committee can be found in our TCFD 
disclosure on page 99).

Dr . Martens plc Boar d

SUSTAINABILITY 
COMMITTEE

RECOMMERCE 
STEERING COMMITTEE

TCFD  
STEERING COMMITTEE

SUSTAINABILITY 
WORKING GROUPS

COMMUNICATIONS

OPERATIONS

MATERIALS & 
PACKAGING

CLIMATE
Climate-related risks and opportunities are 
raised in each Sustainability Working Group

96

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Policies
Our policy requirements are regularly 
reviewed by our Legal, Compliance and 
Sustainability teams. Policies are 
developed using international standards 
and by examining best practices across 
the industry.

Internal policies
Our key ESG policies include: 

•  The DOCtrine, our business code  

of conduct, including:
 — Anti-Bullying, Discrimination  

and Harassment

 — Data Protection

 — Health and Safety

 — Human Rights and Ethical Trade

 — Anti-Bribery, Corruption and Fraud

 — Competition Law/Anti-Trust

 — Confidential Information

 — Conflict of Interest

•  ‘Speak Up’ Whistleblowing Policy

•  MIE Environmental Policy

•  Anti-Slavery and Human Trafficking 

Policy

•  Animal Derived Materials Policy

•  Global Sanctions Compliance Policy

•  Third Party Due Diligence Policy

These are in addition to our supplier 
policies (see page 94). 

   For further information visit  
drmartensplc.com

Compliance and training 
Our global compliance and training platform 
enables the consistent distribution of policies 
and training materials to our employees 
across all regions (and in relevant 
languages). It also provides live views and 
up-to-date reporting, allowing targeted 
training and communication where needed. 

Training modules for all Dr. Martens 
employees include those on: 

•  (New for FY23) Forced Labour and 

Ethical Trade 

LIFECYCLE

•  Diversity, Equity & Inclusion

•  Financial Crime (including Anti-Bribery 

and Corruption)

•  Data Protection and Privacy

•  Acceptable Usage

•  Cybersecurity

SASB REFERENCE TABLE

The Sustainability Accounting Standards Board (SASB) Foundation is a not-for-profit, independent standards-setting organisation 
that aims to establish and maintain industry-specific standards. This table identifies the standards deemed relevant to the Apparel, 
Accessories & Footwear industry, as defined by SASB’s Sustainable Industry Classification System (SICS). It references the location  
in our Annual Report that responds to each metric.

 METRIC 

 CATEGORY 

 UNIT OF MEASURE  

 CODE 

 RESPONSE 

Number of (1) Tier 1 suppliers and 
(2) suppliers beyond Tier 1.

Quantitative Number

MANAGEMENT OF CHEMICALS IN PRODUCTS

Discussion of processes to maintain 
compliance with restricted 
substances regulations.

Discussion 
and analysis

N/A

Discussion of processes to assess 
and manage risks and/or hazards 
associated with chemicals in products.

Discussion 
and analysis

N/A

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS IN THE SUPPLY CHAIN

CG-AA-000.A (1) We classify the following as Tier 1:  
17 Tier 1 Footwear, 8 Tier 1 Accessories 
(plus 4 Upper, and 8 Outsole suppliers).  
As per our Tier 1 definition, we have 37 
Tier 1 supplier factories in total. More 
information can be found on page 94. 

(2) For our SS24 production we have 181 
Tier 2 suppliers. Our supplier numbers 
fluctuate season to season.

CG-AA-250a.1

See ‘Chemicals’ and ‘Water’ within  
‘Our supply chain’ on page 75.

CG-AA-250a.2 See ‘Chemicals’ and ‘Water’ within  

‘Our supply chain’ on page 75.

Percentage of (1) Tier 1 supplier 
facilities and (2) supplier facilities 
beyond Tier 1 in compliance with 
wastewater discharge permits and/
or contractual agreement.

Quantitative Percentage (%)

CG-AA-430a.1 

(1) 100% of Tier 1 suppliers sign our 
Environmental Standards agreement, which 
includes our wastewater management and 
effluent treatment requirements.

(2) 97% of our leather suppliers are LWG 
certified. During FY23 one supplier did not 
renew their certification which expired. 
Those that are certified and conduct wet 
processing comply with the LWG protocol, 
which is aligned to ZDHC and Dr. Martens 
wastewater requirements as outlined in 
our Environmental Standard. For more 
information see the Leather section on 
page 79 and Water on page 75.

Percentage of (1) Tier 1 supplier 
facilities and (2) supplier facilities 
beyond Tier 1 that have completed the 
Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higg 
Facility Environmental Module (Higg 
FEM) assessment or an equivalent 
environmental data assessment.

Quantitative Percentage (%)

CG-AA-430a.2 (1) In FY23 our Tier 1 Made In England 

manufacturing sites maintained ISO 14001 
certification. 25% of our Tier 1 supplier 
factories have declared they have ISO 
14001 certification or have completed the 
Higg FEM assessment.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

97

STRATEGIC REPORTSustainability continued

 METRIC 

 CATEGORY 

 UNIT OF MEASURE  

 CODE 

 RESPONSE 

LABOUR CONDITIONS IN THE SUPPLY CHAIN

Quantitative Percentage (%)

CG-AA-430b.1

Percentage of (1) Tier 1 supplier 
facilities, (2) supplier facilities 
beyond Tier 1 that have been 
audited to a labour code of conduct 
and (3) percentage of total audits 
conducted by a third-party auditor.

(1) 100% of our Tier 1 supplier factories 
have been audited to the Workplace 
Conditions Assessment (WCA) on-site 
audit protocol. For more information see 
Responsibly managing our supply chain 
(page 95).

(2) 97% of the tanneries we source leather 
from are LWG certified, for which a 
recognised social audit is now a requirement.

(3) 100% of our Tier 1 CSR audits were 
conducted by a third-party auditor.

Priority non-conformance rate and 
associated corrective action rate  
for suppliers’ labour code of 
conduct audits.

Quantitative Rate

CG-AA-430b.2 For more information see Responsibly 
managing our supply chain (pages 94  
to 95).

Description of the greatest (1) labour 
and (2) environmental, health and 
safety risks in the supply chain.

Discussion 
and analysis

N/A

CG-AA-430b.3 (1) For more information see Responsibly 
managing our supply chain (pages 94 to 
95) or our latest Modern Slavery Statement.

(2) Our priority climate-related risks can 
be found in our TCFD disclosure on pages 
99 to 107. Leather is our key upper 
material (pages 75 and 78 to 79).

RAW MATERIALS SOURCING

(1) List of priority raw materials;  
for each priority raw material: (2) 
environmental and/or social factor(s) 
most likely to threaten sourcing, (3) 
discussion on business risks and/or 
opportunities associated with 
environmental and/or social factors, 
and (4) management strategy for 
addressing business risks and 
opportunities.

(1) Amount of priority raw materials 
purchased, by material, and (2) 
amount of each priority raw 
material that is certified to a 
third-party environmental and/or 
social standard, by standard.

Discussion 
and analysis

N/A

CG-AA440a.3 For more information see Materials and 
packaging (pages 78 to 81), TCFD report 
(pages 99 to 107) and Risk management 
(pages 54 to 59).

Quantitative Percentage (%) 

G-AA440a.4

by weight

In AW23 98% of our upper leather came 
from LWG certified tanneries. For more 
information see the Leather section on 
pages 78 and 79. In FY23, we began the 
development of a new system which, once 
fully operational, will deliver enhanced 
visibility across our product lifecycle and 
enable reporting in the required unit of 
measure against this metric.

98

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Our TCFD disclosures

TASK FORCE ON CLIMATE-RELATED 
FINANCIAL DISCLOSURES

We support the Task Force on Climate-related Financial Disclosures (TCFD) framework and 
disclose our second TCFD report in line with the UK Listing Rules (LR 9.8.6R). 

We have considered the 2021 TCFD Annex 
and applied it where relevant. Here we  
set out our climate-related financial 
disclosures consistent with the four TCFD 
pillars. We believe our disclosure is 
consistent with 10 of the 11 recommended 
disclosures and is partially consistent  
with recommendation 2b, as set out in the 
table below. We have made progress in 
further understanding and modelling the 
potential impact of climate risks on our 

business, strategy and financial planning 
and our TCFD disclosures below include 
more information than last year on the 
details of the most significant climate 
risks and opportunities. However, we 
recognise that, like many companies,  
we still have more work to do in this  
area, taking advantage of evolving good 
practice and guidance from other 
companies, advisers and regulators.  

In particular, we plan to build on the work 
that an outside consultancy assisted us 
with and more closely link it to our core 
assumptions used to model forecast 
future business performance, including 
the drivers of revenues and costs. Further 
details of the progress we have made in 
FY23 are set out below in the section 
headed ‘financial impact’, together with 
an indication of work planned for FY24.

TCFD INDEX TABLE 

Key

  Consistent 

  Partially consistent 

TCFD 
PILLAR

RECOMMENDED 
DISCLOSURE

CONSISTENCY 
LEVEL

PAGE 
REFERENCE 

1. GOVERNANCE a. Describe the board’s oversight of climate-related risks and opportunities.

b.  Describe management’s role in assessing and managing climate-related 

risks and opportunities.

2. STRATEGY

a.  Describe the climate-related risks and opportunities the organisation has 

identified over the short, medium, and long term.

b.  Describe the impact of climate-related risks and opportunities on the 

organisation’s businesses, strategy, and financial planning.

c.  Describe the resilience of the organisation’s strategy, taking into 

consideration different climate-related scenarios, including a 2°C or  
lower scenario.

3. RISK 
MANAGEMENT

a.  Describe the organisation’s processes for identifying and assessing 

climate-related risks.

b.  Describe the organisation’s processes for managing climate-related risks. 

c.  Describe how processes for identifying, assessing, and managing 

climate-related risks are integrated into the organisation’s overall risk 
management.

4. METRICS 
AND TARGETS

a.  Disclose the metrics used by the organisation to assess climate-related risks 
and opportunities in line with its strategy and risk management process.

b.  Disclose Scope 1, Scope 2 and, if appropriate, Scope 3 greenhouse gas 

(GHG) emissions and the related risks.

c.  Describe the targets used by the organisation to manage climate-related 

risks and opportunities and performance against targets.

Pages 55, 96 
and 100

Pages 96  
and 100

Pages 101  
to 105

Pages 61 and 
101 to 105

Pages 101  
to 106

Pages 54 and 
55, 101 and 106

Pages 54 and 
55, 101 to 106

Pages 54, 55 
and 106

Pages 103  
to 107

Pages 71 to 73 
and 107

Pages 103  
to 107

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

99

STRATEGIC REPORTOur TCFD disclosures continued

INTRODUCTION

   Take urgent action to 
combat climate change 
and its impacts

The climate crisis is one of the defining 
challenges facing the world today. 
Average temperatures continue to rise 
with 2022 documented as one of the 
warmest years on record. Dr. Martens has 
responded to the urgent call from the 
Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) for 
corporate climate action by committing to 
align with 1.5°C and Net-Zero through the 
Business Ambition for 1.5°C campaign.

In this, our second TCFD disclosure, we 
build upon our previous reporting and 
outline the steps we have taken over  
the past year to progress our climate 
strategy. We describe in more detail  
the methodology used in the scenario 
modelling we conducted in partnership 
with the Carbon Trust, as well as an 
update on relevant actions. In FY23,  
we focused on the establishment of the 
TCFD Working Group and the submission 
of our Net-Zero aligned Science-Based 
Targets (SBTs) for validation. 

Our TCFD disclosure will reflect the 
development of our climate strategy over 
time. Our climate strategy will evolve as our 
own understanding and the understanding 
of the scientific community on the transition 
to a low-carbon economy improves. Through 
our Planet, Product, People sustainability 
strategy (which underpins our DOCS 
strategy), we are taking steps to mitigate 
potential impacts of climate-related risks, as 
well as capitalising on opportunities which 
generate long-term value for the business. 

GOVERNANCE
The Board is responsible for the oversight 
and integration of ESG-related activities 
across the business, including the 
sustainability strategy and climate-related 
risks and opportunities. It carries out  
this role through in-depth sustainability 
updates presented at Board meetings 
which occur at least annually as well as 
regular updates from the Chief People & 
Sustainability Officer (CPSO) who leads 
the Sustainability team. These provide  
an opportunity for the Board to give 
feedback and challenge the sustainability 
strategy priorities and targets (including 
our Net-Zero target and additional 
commitments, see pages 66 to 67).  
The Board is kept informed of changing 
regulatory and legislative developments, 

including those relating to sustainability 
and climate-related disclosures, through 
quarterly ‘horizon scanning’ papers. The 
Board uses this information to help guide 
its broader decision-making, including 
strategic, risk management, business 
planning and performance management 
related decisions. Climate-related matters 
(including setting SBTs and partnering 
with a materials innovation company) 
were discussed in 25% of this year’s 
scheduled Board meetings. Other 
sustainability and ESG-related matters 
were also more regularly highlighted in 
the Board meetings through CEO updates.

   ESG targets form part of the ongoing 
performance measures for the 
Executive Bonus Scheme: P145 

The sustainability strategy at Dr. Martens 
is underpinned by a clear governance 
framework, which can be found on page 
96. This covers strategic oversight, 
day-to-day responsibility, as well as 
information flows between these groups 
and to the Board. 

Sustainability Committee: The 
Sustainability Committee is chaired by the 
CEO, assisted by the CPSO. The Committee 
has overall management responsibility  
for climate-related issues and reports 
regularly to the Board. Key outputs for  
the Sustainability Committee during  
FY23 included review and steer of our 
recommerce initiative proposal, discussion 
and approval of launch plans for multiple 
sustainable materials and review and 
approval of the proposed SBTs (which are 
awaiting verification by the SBTi), among 
other key decisions.

Sustainability Working Groups: The 
Sustainability Working Groups (Operations, 
Materials and Packaging, Lifecycle and 
Communications) report into the 
Sustainability Committee every two 
months providing updates on progress 
against the sustainability strategy, 
commitments and metrics. Climate feeds 
into all areas of our strategy, so falls within 
the scope of each of the working groups. 
Working groups are led by management-
level subject matter experts from across 
the business, with guidance and technical 
advice provided by the Sustainability team.

TCFD Steering Committee: A cross-
functional committee comprised of the 
Finance, Sustainability, Internal Audit & 
Risk and Supply Chain teams, which works 
collaboratively to identify, monitor and 
manage climate risks and opportunities. 

The TCFD Steering Committee is chaired by 
the CFO, who has ultimate accountability 
for climate-related issues. The TCFD 
Steering Committee provides updates into 
the Sustainability Committee, which is 
chaired by the CEO. Key outputs for FY23 
included a detailed review of the climate 
risks and opportunities report, development 
of the TCFD disclosure and preparations 
for the climate transition plan. 

Recommerce Steering Committee: As a 
key opportunity to mitigate our climate 
impact, developing our recommerce 
business model is a focus for the business. 
As a result of this, the Recommerce 
Steering Committee was set up in February 
2023 and meets every six weeks. It is 
chaired by the CFO and is another cross-
functional group consisting of Finance, 
Global Supply Chain, Sustainability, Legal, 
Technology, Marketing and relevant 
Regional Teams. It works to advance repair 
and resale opportunities globally and to 
incorporate recommerce into the Group’s 
strategic direction and financial planning. 
Key discussion points and outputs in FY23 
included selection of a recommerce partner, 
timeline and operational model.

Sustainability team: Dr. Martens has a 
team of internal sustainability experts who 
have the skills and knowledge required to 
support decision-making. The Sustainability 
and Climate Impact Manager is responsible 
for the day-to-day consideration, 
management and inclusion of climate-
related risks and opportunities across the 
business. They have the responsibility for 
attending all Sustainability Committee 
meetings and working groups to ensure 
climate risks and opportunities are included 
on the agenda and to provide specialist 
expertise when required. Members of the 
Finance team participate in external 
training courses, including the University of 
Cambridge Sustainable Finance course, to 
ensure they keep up to date with relevant 
climate-related financial topics. Dr. Martens 
employees are educated on climate-related 
topics through internal engagement and 
strategic communications. 

More detail on our governance can be 
found on the following pages:

   Dr. Martens plc Board and other 
Board-level Committees: P120

   Operational Risk Committee: P54 

   Sustainability governance structure 
including Sustainability Committee 
and working groups: P96

100

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

STRATEGY
In this section, we outline our primary 
risks and opportunities related to climate 
change, along with their potential impact 
on our business. We have assessed the 
resilience of our strategy to these and  
our DOCS strategy now incorporates 
workstreams to respond to climate-related 
risks and opportunities. 

The majority of our impact lies within  
our supply chain with Scope 3 emissions 
accounting for 99% of our carbon 
footprint1. The mitigation of Scope 3 
emissions represents a significant 
challenge but we are taking steps to 
engage and collaborate with our supply 
chain to tackle our value chain emissions. 
Sourcing lower impact materials, kick 
starting our recommerce business model 
and engaging suppliers on environmental 
principles are just some of the projects 
we have underway to manage and 
ultimately reduce our emissions. 

This year we are continuing to use the 
Carbon Trust climate-related risks and 
opportunities modelling which was 
conducted in 2022 and introduced in  
our previous TCFD report. Over the past 
year, we have been using the results of 
the Carbon Trust modelling to improve 
internal stakeholder understanding in 
relation to climate-related risks. Here  
we expand on the methodology used  
and provide more context against the 
climate-risks and opportunities identified.

Our approach to prioritising our 
climate-related risks and 
opportunities: 
In FY22, we partnered with the Carbon 
Trust to identify the key climate-related 
risks and opportunities of our current 
business model, using climate science and 
scenario modelling. This was supplemented 
by interviews with key internal stakeholders, 
including our CFO and COO, to gain insight 
into how these impacts could change as our 
business and supply chain evolves.

The methodology consisted of two  
main stages: 

1.  Identify and categorise a longlist of 

climate-related risks and opportunities: 
using the findings from the interviews and 
business data, the Carbon Trust analysed 
the impact of climate change on the 
footwear and leather industries, resulting 
in a longlist of climate-related risks and 
opportunities. The process considered 
risks and opportunities across the entire 
value chain of Dr. Martens. 

2.  Prioritise the most material climate-
related risks and opportunities: the 
Carbon Trust took an evidence-based 
approach to assessing the risks and 
opportunities, drawing on climate 
scenarios and Dr. Martens financial data 
from the year the climate risk and 
opportunity assessment was conducted. 
Three criteria were used: time horizon, 
likelihood and indicative gross impact. 

Prioritisation criteria key: 

TIME HORIZON: 
The time horizon score is based on 
the timeframe that external events 
which drive climate-related risks and 
opportunities are expected to occur 
under both <2°C and +2°C scenarios.

This score measures the rate of 
change of the identified climate 
scenario parameters which is the key 
metric that influences the size of the 
risk or opportunity. The time horizon 
is determined on how quickly a 
parameter changes in each climate 
scenario. An example of time horizon 
would be how rapidly carbon pricing 
increases in a RCP1.9-aligned Net-Zero 
scenario within a certain geography.

LIKELIHOOD: 
The likelihood score is based on  
the number of scenarios in which 
climate-related risks and 
opportunities are predicted to occur 
under current policy scenario and 
Paris-aligned scenarios. The more 
closely aligned the outcomes are, 
the higher the likelihood.

An example would be the impact of 
carbon pricing. In an RCP1.9-aligned 
Net-Zero scenario carbon pricing 
rises rapidly while in an RCP4.5-
aligned current policies scenario 
carbon pricing does not increase 
much from current levels. This would 
lead to a lower overall likelihood.

INDICATIVE GROSS IMPACT: 
This score is based on the estimated 
negative impact on revenue or costs 
for risks, and estimated positive impact 
to revenue or costs for opportunities. 
These initial estimates give an order of 
magnitude to allow for prioritisation. 
As we are still working through our 
understanding of financial impact (net 
of mitigating actions) we have not 
included specific financial ranges. We 
will look to develop this to consider for 
disclosures in future years. 

+10 years

5-10 years

<5 years

Possible

Likely

Very likely 

L Low 

M Medium 

H High

1.  Based on Dr. Martens FY20 baseline footprint calculation.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

101

STRATEGIC REPORTOur TCFD disclosures continued

Climate scenario sources and scenarios used:
The climate-related risks and opportunities were assessed against a business-as-usual and an extreme scenario. Physical risks were 
assessed using the above 2°C scenarios and transition risks and opportunities were assessed using below 2°C scenarios. We assessed 
the annual financial implication of each climate-related risk and opportunity against the most extreme respective scenarios. The 
following are the main climate scenario sources and scenarios used:

Low-carbon transition scenarios, Below 2°C (transition risks and opportunities only): This scenario sets out a rapid decarbonisation pathway in line with 
the Paris Agreement that limits peak warming to below 2°C.

Scenario source

Scenario considered

Approximate temperature or RCP1

•  NGFS 
•  IEA and World Energy Outlook
•  IEA, Energy Technology Perspectives (ETP)
•  UN FAO 

•  Net Zero 2050 
•  Sustainable development scenario (SDS)
•  2 Degree Scenario (2DS)
•  Towards Sustainability 

•  1.5°C 
•  1.8°C
•  2.0°C
•  NA (land-use change scenario) 

Business as usual/current policies scenarios, Above 2°C: This scenario represents an intermediate pathway in which temperatures are more likely than not 
to exceed 2oC with significant resultant impacts on global climate system, involving later decarbonisation.

Scenario source

Scenario considered

Approximate temperature or RCP

•  NGFS
•  IEA and World Energy Outlook 
•  IEA, Energy Technology Perspectives (ETP) 
•  UN FAO 
•  Climate Impact Explorer 
•  WRI Aqueduct Floods 

•  Current policies
•  Stated Policies Scenario (SPS) 
•  Reference Technology Scenario (RTC) 
•  Business as Usual
•  Baseline
•  Baseline (optimistic), SSP2 

•  3.0°C+
•  ~3.0°C 
•  ~3.0°C 
•  NA (land-use change scenario) 
•  RCP 4.5
•  RCP 4.5

High-emission scenarios, Above 2°C (physical risks only): This scenario assumes existing policies are unsuccessful and results in significant increase in 
emissions without constraint. With increased global warming, physical risks are expected to intensify.

Scenario source

•  Climate Impact Explorer
•  WRI Aqueduct Floods
•  WRI Water Risk Atlas

Scenario considered

Approximate temperature or RCP

•  High-emission scenario
•  Business as Usual, SSP2
•  Business as Usual, SSP2

•  RCP 8.8
•  RCP 8.5
•  RCP 8.5

1.  A Representative Concentration Pathway (RCP) is a greenhouse gas concentration trajectory.

While this disclosure does not provide an 
exhaustive list of every climate-related 
risk or opportunity identified, it does give 
a view on the areas in order of likely 
significance to our business, in the short, 
medium and long term. These timescales 
were chosen as they are aligned with the 
business’s wider strategic planning 
horizons, enabling climate-related risks 
and opportunities to be factored into 
broader business decisions. 

DOCS strategy and 
climate-related risks: 
In our refresh of the DOCS strategy during 
FY23, we considered the resilience of our 
business strategy to climate-related risk. 
As part of the update of DOCS, we 
integrated sustainability into key strategic 
projects in the following areas:

•  D: 1.3 Build a profitable resale, repair 

and end of life business model

•  O: 2.2 Build a best-in-class, resilient, 
sustainable and scalable supply chain

•  C: 3.3 Lead in sustainability through 

durability and innovation

   For further details of the DOCS 
strategy see P30 and 31

102

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 DR. MARTENS PRIORITISED CLIMATE-RELATED RISKS AND OPPORTUNITIES 

Our most significant climate-related risks and opportunities are set out in the table below, alongside information on how these are being 
managed, primarily through the Climate, Lifecycle, Materials and Packaging focus areas which sit within our ‘Planet, Product, People’ 
sustainability strategy. More information on our sustainability strategy can be found on pages 66 to 67 of our Sustainability report.

Transition opportunities – assessed using below 2°C scenarios:
Definition 
lower-carbon products, business models and supply chains.

 Transition opportunities: Business avenues which provide financial prospects related to increased demand for 

Modelling approach

Category: Market

Opportunity identified: 

 Repair and Resale Markets 

Key assumptions: 

•  The key assumption is that Dr. Martens can 
capture a similar share of the market to the 
one that it holds in the global footwear market.

•  Current market share is calculated using 
Dr. Martens detailed segmentation of the 
footwear market. Projected margins are from 
Dr. Martens internal financial modelling. 
Baseline market sizes from market research 
companies and transition sizes from 
modelling by the Global Fashion Agenda.

Category: Market 

Opportunity identified: 

 Sourcing Lower Impact Leather and  
 Alternatives to Leather 

Key assumptions: 

•  The rates of growth projected for these 

new markets constitute significant 
opportunities. The alternative leather 
material product market is expected to 
grow rapidly, and with it the footwear 
market as well.

•  It is modelled that Dr. Martens will be able 
to capture a market share similar, in both 
the EU and American markets, to the one 
held in regular footwear. 

•  The market share is assumed to be 

constant across the different markets. 

Overview of impact

Our strategic approach

M

Potential impact: 

•  Repair and resale presents a significant 
opportunity for Dr. Martens through the 
generation of revenue and profit based on the 
projected rates of growth for this new market. 

•  These markets are projected to have high 
levels of growth in both a baseline and 
transition scenario. 

M

Potential impact: 

•  Another major opportunity for new revenue 
streams is the rapid growth of the alternative 
leather market. 

•  Diversifying our core materials by introducing 
alternative materials has the potential to 
reduce the emissions intensity per product. 

•  For example, this could reduce our 

exposure to potential costs associated with 
and linking to the Land-use & Agricultural 
Practice transitional risk (see below), while 
also reducing our exposure to physical 
climate risks associated with farming.

Sustainability strategy focus area: Lifecycle 

Commitments: 

•  Offer options and guidance for wearers  

to maximise useable life by 2025.
•  All products sold have sustainable 

end-of-life solution by 2040. 

 Actions: 

•  Successfully launched Dr. Martens first 
repair and resale recommerce business 
model in the UK during FY23. We have since 
extended the UK trial and are exploring 
options to launch the project in the US.
•  We are also working on the launch of a new 
direct-to-consumer authorised repair trial 
in the UK, as well as exploring this offering 
in other regions.

Sustainability strategy focus area: Materials 

Commitments: 

•  Sustainable vegan upper material by 2028.
•  100% of footwear made from sustainable 

materials by 2040. 

 Actions: 

•  Dr. Martens is actively working with 

suppliers to trial alternative and lower 
impact materials. The primary focus of the 
alternative material work to date has been 
on trialling bio-based and recycled 
alternatives for leather uppers.

•  In March 2023, we announced an exciting 

new partnership with Gen Phoenix, a 
materials innovation company and leading 
producer of recycled leather at scale (see 
page 80 for more). During FY24, we are 
planning to launch product which contains 
the recycled leather material, which is 
made using leather waste from tanneries 
which was previously destined for landfill. 
This partnership will support our product 
innovation and industry-wide adoption of 
circular and more sustainable materials.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

103

STRATEGIC REPORT 
 
 
 
 
Our TCFD disclosures continued

Transition risks – assessed using below 2°C scenarios:
Definition 
global economy. The slower these transitions are embedded, the greater the likely exposure to physical risks.

 Transition risks: Policies, legislation, markets and technology which will be needed to transition towards a zero-carbon 

Modelling approach

Overview of impact

Our strategic approach

Category: Policy & Legal

Climate risk identified: 

 Carbon Pricing/Taxation 

Key assumptions: 

•  Transition carbon prices are based on an 
integrated assessment model’s outputs  
for a 1.5-degree aligned scenario (REMIND-
MAgPIE is the main model used).

•  Carbon emissions are estimated using 

Carbon Trust’s Scope 3 work and 
databases, as well as expert advice.

•  Where the financial implications of carbon 
taxes were assessed, Dr. Martens’ FY20 
emissions profile was used.

Category: Policy & Legal

Climate risk identified: 

 Production Standards 

Key assumptions: 

•  The cost of decarbonisation across the 

value chain is a key risk area. It is assumed 
that actors pass on costs to their customers 
in order to meet decarbonisation standards 
which are in line with a transition scenario. 
The two subcategories assessed under 
Production Standards are the cost of 
decarbonising agriculture and shipping.

•  Decarbonising shipping: to provide a 
benchmark financial estimate, the 
modelling has assumed that the cost will 
increase proportionately to the mandated 
reduction percentage.

•  Decarbonising agriculture: the modelling has 
used a combination of the REMIND-MAgPIE 
model looking at the predicted change in 
livestock prices and estimated costs of 
specific ammonia and methane abatement 
in line with emissions trajectories. 

M

Potential impact: 

•  In a transition scenario, global carbon 
prices steadily increase. In a baseline 
scenario carbon continues to be unpriced, 
therefore the likelihood is lower.

•  The impact in a high emission scenario is 
predicted to be severe, however the main 
emission sources to be priced are further 
removed from Dr. Martens in agriculture 
and the manufacturing of chemicals and 
PVC for outsoles.

•  Introduction of carbon taxes and/or carbon 
trading markets could increase input costs 
across the value chain, especially within 
carbon hotspots such as leather and PVC.

M

Potential impact: 

•  The overall impact of decarbonisation 

standards depends upon the direction of 
government policy and the development  
of alternative technology. The impact on 
Dr. Martens is challenging to model given the 
relatively far-removed upstream position and 
the systemic nature of these risks. However 
the areas most likely to impact Dr. Martens 
are standards applied to cattle-farming, 
PVC production and packaging. 

•  However, production standards also offer  
a significant opportunity for Dr. Martens. 
Resilience across their value chain can be 
strengthened which could result in positive 
operational efficiency opportunities. Better 
energy efficiency, resulting in less energy 
used across the value chain, could positively 
mitigate against the risk of ‘Increased Prices 
of Input Materials, Processes and Services’.

Category: Market

Climate risk identified: 

M

 Increased Prices of Input Materials,  
 Processes and Services 

Potential impact: 

Key assumptions: 

•  Market changes to demand and supply 
under a low-carbon transition predict a 
long-term increase in the cost for grid 
electricity across the supply chain and the 
price of virgin PVC inputs. 

•  Projected grid prices and PVC demand are 
based on IEA World Energy Outlook and 
Energy Technology Perspectives scenarios, 
and heavy fuel oil prices based on GCAM5.3 
IAM outputs. The price of PVC is assumed to 
have a unitary price elasticity with respect to 
demand. For the impact of coal and gas prices, 
the grid mix is assumed to stay constant 
with no phase out of fossil fuel assets.

•  The decarbonisation of materials and services, 
and the adoption of lower impact alternatives, 
could require higher levels of investment 
within the supply chain which are assumed to 
be passed downstream to Dr. Martens. The 
price of inputs to virgin PVC is the most 
significant sub-category identified in the 
modelling. Investment in bio-based PVC  
or PVC alternatives mitigates this risk. 
•  The impact of grid electricity prices on 

manufacturing and tanning is also 
identified as a key area with electricity 
price increases also assumed to be passed 
downstream to Dr. Martens. 

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DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Sustainability strategy focus area: Climate 

Commitments: 

•  Net-Zero SBTs awaiting validation by the SBTi.
•  100% of footwear made from sustainable 

materials by 2040. 

 Actions: 

•  We are focusing on our Net-Zero commitment 
and adoption of lower impact and alternative 
materials (including leather and PVC). These 
support the transition to a low-carbon 
economy, resulting in lower carbon taxation 
as we reduce our emission hotspots.
•  We are continuing to develop and trial 

alternative materials including a bio-based 
upper and bio-based PVC. 

Sustainability strategy focus area: Climate

Commitments: 

•  Environmental certification standard to all 

Tier 1 suppliers by 2025.

•  Net-Zero SBTs awaiting validation by the SBTi.
•  Internal ambition to collaborate with logistics 

partners on green shipping solutions. 

 Actions: 

•  We are developing supplier environmental 

principles which we will work to embed with 
our Tier 1 suppliers. 25% of our Tier 1 
suppliers have declared an environmental 
certification in place.

Sustainability strategy focus area: Materials 
and Climate

Commitments: 

•  Sustainable alternative to outsoles by 2035.
•  Source renewable electricity across our 
owned and operated sites by 2025. 

 Actions: 

•  We are continuing to test and trial 

alternative materials including a bio-based 
PVC outsole which meet our durability and 
quality standards.

•  91% of our UK and EMEA owned sites 

source renewable electricity. We are also 
working on sourcing renewable electricity 
across APAC and America. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
Modelling approach

Category: Market

Climate risk identified: 

 Land-use & Agricultural Practices 

Key assumptions: 

•  This risk area looks at risks of competition 
for land increasing the price of bovine 
products including hides. 

•  The analysis assumes that prices of raw 

hides will increase proportionately with the 
decreased availability of land, but do not 
look at whether Dr. Martens’ suppliers 
could procure hides from other locations 
that would be less affected and hence see  
a lower price difference. 

Overview of impact

Our strategic approach

L

Potential impact: 

•  The impact on Dr. Martens is challenging  
to model given the relatively far-removed 
upstream position and the systemic nature 
of these risks. However, procurement costs 
could increase as a result of global 
emission-reduction efforts, due to less 
intensive practices and higher demand for 
lower impact materials. This would also 
negatively impact the risk area Increased 
Prices of Input Materials, Processes and 
Services due to the potential cost uplift. 

Sustainability strategy focus area: 
Packaging and Materials

Commitments: 

•  Net-Zero Science-Based Targets awaiting 

validation by the SBTi. 

 Actions: 

•  A key opportunity identified is to  

‘Source Leather Alternatives’. This is  
part of our Net-Zero ambition and as  
part of this commitment we will look to 
alternative materials to diversify our 
material procurement. We are actively 
trialling alternatives to leather including 
recycled leather. 

Physical risks – assessed using the above 2°C scenarios:
We also assessed how changes in the climate and extreme weather events could impact our operations and supply chain. An initial 
screening exercise was undertaken to evaluate, at a high level, the potential exposure of each of our sites and key locations within 
the supply chain to acute and chronic physical risks. When identifying physical risks, we considered two main factors:

•  The significance of the site or region to our business, i.e. its relative contribution in terms of revenue, production volume, 

purchase volume and value of assets compared to others; and

•  The level of acute or chronic physical risk for each site or region.

Modelling approach

Category: Physical

Overview of impact

Our strategic approach

Chronic time horizon:  Acute time horizon: 

•  Our supply chain strategy is to diversify 

Chronic:  Sustained temperature changes due  
 to increasing emissions. 

Acute:  Extreme weather events e.g. flooding,  
 heatwaves, wildfire, cyclones, droughts etc. 

Key assumptions: 

•  Riverine flooding parameters from the Climate 
Impact Explorer consider change in land 
fraction annually exposed to riverine flooding.

•  Parameter does not directly link to 

increasing severity of floods and is not 
used in the materiality calculation. 

•  Coastal flooding parameters from the WRI 
Aqueduct Flood tool consider change in 
urban damage.

•  Parameter does not directly link to 

increasing severity of floods (also considers 
increase in urbanised area) and not used 
directly in materiality.

Potential impact: 

•  Increasing temperatures accelerate the 
acute risks, as well as driving further 
chronic risks such as altering rainfall 
patterns and ocean warming, resulting  
in water stresses and sea-level rise. 

•  Extreme weather events are already occurring 
and are likely to increase in frequency and 
magnitude due to rising temperatures. This 
could impact materials sourcing and business 
and supply chain operations.

•  Under high-emissions scenarios, physical 
risks are expected to occur in the short  
to medium term. Flooding (riverine and 
coastal) is the most material in terms of 
gross impact range with the highest impacts 
predicted for distribution centres in Hong 
Kong and factories and tanneries in Thailand 
and Vietnam.

•  Leather is our most commonly used upper 
material and some of the major global 
sources of leather could be impacted by 
physical climate risks including heatwaves 
and drought.

and limit reliance on individual suppliers or 
locations, which also reduces potential risk 
of disruption from extreme weather events. 
This approach is taken while also 
considering low-carbon freight and a 
transition towards increased near-shoring.

•  The criteria for selecting future supplier 
factory locations now include specific 
consideration of the potential impact of 
climate risks.

•  In relation to leather sources, we are 
making good progress on leather 
traceability, which includes understanding 
whether the source location is associated 
with higher levels of physical risks (see 
page 78 of our Sustainability report for 
more details on leather traceability 
commitments and our progress).

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

105

STRATEGIC REPORT 
 
 
 
Our TCFD disclosures continued

RISK MANAGEMENT
Climate change is integrated into 
Dr. Martens broader risk management 
framework, and is subject to the same 
governance, annual review process and 
management attention as other risks 
recorded on our Group Risk Register. 
Further detail on our risk management 
framework is on page 55.

We currently consider climate risk as an 
emerging risk rather than a separate 
principal risk. This assessment is based 
upon two main considerations. Firstly, 
there remain considerable ranges of 
uncertainty on the extent and timing of 
when climate risks might materialise, 
particularly within the timeframe of our 
normal business planning cycle. Secondly, 
our current assessment is that there is no 
material impact on the achievement of our 
business strategy, when considering the 
direct impact of climate risks separate 
from other risks. However, we do include  
it as a key component of the social and 
environmental principal risk. We also 
recognise that climate impacts our other 
principal risks, particularly supply chain, 
brand and product, legal and compliance, 
and therefore climate is considered in the 
way we assess and mitigate those risks.  
In assessing whether or not there is a 
material impact, we have considered the 
threshold at which we believe a risk 
becomes sufficiently important to our 
investors and other stakeholders that  
it should be publicly reported. We will 
continue to revisit this as we develop  
our transition plan towards Net-Zero and 
conduct further analysis into the net 
potential impact of climate risks, after 
taking into account the mitigations we can 
put in place and the potential costs and 
benefits of those. Pages 56 to 59 include 
further detail on our principal risks.

Climate-related risks were identified 
through our climate scenario analysis 
methodology and scoring approach (pages 
101 to 102). This methodology is the 
approach we will take going forward to 
identify climate-related risks. We recognise 
that the timeframes for considering 
climate risks are different from many other 
principal risks and this is reflected in the 
time horizons set out against each climate 
risk and opportunity in the tables on pages 
103 to 105.

FINANCIAL IMPACT
As noted above, based upon the analysis 
carried out to date, we believe that 
climate-related risks do not present an 
immediate material financial risk or threat 
to the resilience of our business strategy 
or threat to our business model in the 
medium term. Therefore, we have not 
carried out a separate viability scenario 
analysis for climate risk, but we have 
considered climate-related assumptions in 
some of the viability scenarios set out on 
pages 60 to 61. This includes for example, 
disruption to our supply chain or damage 
to warehouses or Tier 1 factories due to 
extreme weather events.

As noted above, we have made progress 
in the past year in developing further 
understanding of the potential impact of 
climate risks on our business, building on 
the climate risk and opportunity analysis 
facilitated by the Carbon Trust in FY22. 
However, we recognise that, like many 
companies, we still have more work to do 
in this area, taking advantage of evolving 
good practice and guidance from other 
companies, advisers and regulators.  
During FY24, areas that we plan to analyse 
further include the location-specific 
analysis of physical risks and related 
mitigations, including updating the initial 
analysis to reflect any changes since the 
original analysis, such as alternative 
locations and production volumes for our 
Tier 1 suppliers. We will also carry out 
further work to assess the range of 
potential financial impacts of the more 
significant climate risks, after taking into 
account the mitigations that are either 
already in place or we believe can be put 
in place to reduce the impact of risks. 

METRICS AND TARGETS
Setting our Science-Based 
Targets: 
Once verified, progress against our SBTs 
will be the key metric we use to monitor 
our climate-related performance. In line 
with the requirements of the SBTi, we 
have committed to set near- and long-
term Company-wide emissions reductions 
which are aligned with science-based 
Net-Zero. 

To ensure we follow the common, 
science-based approach, we amended  
our original commitment following  
the publication of the SBTi’s Net-Zero 
Standard and FLAG Guidance. Our 
Net-Zero ambition was realigned and 
submitted to the SBTi and we will share 
the full targets once verified, which is 
expected during FY24.

We are awaiting verification of the 
following targets from the SBTi:

2030 SBTs aligned with  
a well-below 2˚C global  
warming target: 
Reduce absolute… 

•  Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 90% 

•  Scope 3 FLAG emissions by 30%

•  Scope 3 Industry emissions by 30% 

2040 SBTs aligned with  
a 1.5˚C global warming target: 
Reduce absolute… 

•  Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 90%  

to Net-Zero

•  Scope 3 FLAG emissions by 72%  

to Net-Zero

•  Scope 3 Industry emissions by 90%  

to Net-Zero

The modelling to set our SBTs was 
conducted after the identification of our 
priority climate risks and opportunities, 
which is why the scenarios do not directly 
align. In the coming year, we will look to 
align the climate risk modelling with our 
SBTs by using the appropriate scenarios 
including 1.5˚C. 

106

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Carbon footprint for FY22:
The table below contains the results of our 
carbon footprint for our value chain in 
FY22, calculated in partnership with the 
Carbon Trust. Further details including the 
breakdown of relevant Scope 3 category 
emissions and comparison against our 
FY20 baseline can be found on page 71  
of our Sustainability report. Our FY22  
and FY23 limited Scope 1, 2 and 3 GHG 
emissions can be found in our SECR 
disclosure on page 73.

Scope

Scope 1 

FY22 
Tonnes CO2e
756

% of total 
value chain

0.27%

Scope 2 (Location)

Scope 2 (Market) 

1,665

1,285

–

0.47%

Scope 32

273,422

99.26%

What’s next?
We recognise that we still have more work 
to do in this area by taking advantage  
of evolving good practice and guidance. 
We plan to build on the work already 
conducted and more closely link it to our 
core assumptions used to model forecast 
future business performance. 

Some of the planned future mitigating 
actions, including those needed to deliver 
our Net-Zero by 2040 ambition, have  
not been taken into consideration in  
the scenario analysis to date. In future 
disclosures, we will look to provide these 
further details for our more significant 
risks, illustrating their drivers and our 
plans to mitigate them.

We will also look to align the climate risk 
modelling with our SBTs by using the 
appropriate scenarios including 1.5˚C.

Finally, we will continue to increase  
our understanding of the interaction 
between climate and nature, through  
our commitments to regenerative 
agriculture, zero deforestation and  
supply chain traceability.

Climate-related sustainability 
metrics and targets:
Other metrics currently used to monitor 
climate-related performance include:

•  Source renewable electricity across  

all owned and operated sites by 2025 
FY23: 91% (EMEA including UK)1 

•  Environmental certification standard to 
all Tier 1 suppliers by 2025 FY23: 25% 

We continue to work towards additional 
commitments which support our Net-Zero 
ambition. Scope 3 accounts for 99% of our 
emissions with our use of leather, PVC and 
packaging making up the majority of our 
emissions profile. In order to reduce these 
emissions we have set targets including:

•  100% of natural materials in products 
from regenerative agriculture by 2040

•  100% of footwear made from 
sustainable materials by 2040

•  100% of packaging from recycled  

or other sustainably sourced material 
by 2028 

•  Sustainable vegan upper material  

by 2028 

Targets relating to our climate-related 
risks and opportunities can be found  
on pages 103 to 105 and all other 
sustainability commitments can be 
found throughout our Sustainability 
report from pages 62 to 98. 

1.  We are also working on sourcing and measuring renewable electricity use in our America and APAC regional operations. 
2.   The following GHG Protocol Scope 3 emissions are excluded because they are not applicable to our business: (8) Upstream Leased Assets, (10) Processing,  

(13) Downstream Leased Assets, and (15) Investments.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

107

STRATEGIC REPORT 
Non-financial information statement

This section of the Strategic report constitutes Dr. Martens Non-Financial Information Statement, produced to comply with Sections 
414CA and 414CB of the Companies Act 2006. The information listed is incorporated by cross-reference.

Where to find more information in 
this report

Business model 

Page(s)

20 to 21

Measuring our performance 

42 to 43

Risk management and principal risks 

54 to 59

Risk management and principal risks 
Stakeholder engagement: Environment  
and Communities 
29
Sustainability report: Our Commitments  66 to 67
99 to 107
Our TCFD disclosures 

54 to 59

Risk management and principal risks 
54 to 59
Sustainability report: Our commitments  66 to 67
Sustainability report: Our People 
84 to 95
Stakeholder engagement: Environment  
and Communities 
Stakeholder engagement: Partners 
Stakeholder engagement: Supply Chain 
Stakeholder engagement: Our People 

29 
27
28
25

54 to 59
Risk management and principal risks 
25
Stakeholder engagement: Our People 
Sustainability report: People 
84 to 95
Sustainability report: Our commitments  66 to 67

Sustainability report: Our commitments  66 to 67
Sustainability report: People 
84 to 95
Stakeholder engagement: Environment  
and Communities 
Risk management and principal risks 

29
54 to 59

Sustainability report: People 
Audit and Risk Committee report 
Sustainability governance 
Risk management and principal risks 

84 to 95
151 to 158
96
54 to 59

Reporting 
requirement

Dr. Martens supporting statements, 
policies and procedures

Policy description

Business model N/A

Non-financial 
KPIs

Principal risks

Environmental 
matters

N/A

Group risk management processes and 
procedures

Supplier Environmental Standards

Made In England Environmental Policy

Animal Derived Materials Policy

N/A

N/A

N/A

Sets out our expectations for how our suppliers 
manage their environmental impacts, including but 
not limited to energy, water, waste and chemicals.

Sets out how our Made In England factory  
manages its environmental impacts and includes  
its commitments.

Sets out the expected standards and behaviour of 
the relevant departments of Dr. Martens and its 
suppliers, in order to respect best practices when 
sourcing and using materials derived from animals.

Human rights

The DOCtrine 

The Rule Book 

Our employee code of conduct

Our employee handbook

Modern Slavery Statement

N/A

Anti-Slavery and Human Trafficking 
Policy

Supplier Migrant Worker Policy

Supplier Code of Conduct and Workplace 
Standards

This policy sets out our expectation of our People 
and their responsibilities in preventing slavery & 
human trafficking.

Our Supplier Migrant Worker policy sets out the 
principles to ensure that Dr. Martens and its 
suppliers respect the responsible recruitment  
and employment of migrant workers and to help 
suppliers safeguard the rights and welfare of 
migrant workers in their supply chain and manage 
the associated risks and responsibilities

The Supplier Code of Conduct and Workplace 
Standards sets out how we expect our suppliers  
to behave as a business and gives details on how  
to meet the expected standards.

Our people

The DOCtrine

The Rule Book

Our employee code of conduct.

Our employee handbook.

Mandatory training on key policies

N/A

Social matters

The DOCtrine

Our employee code of conduct

Volunteering Policy

Matched Giving Policy

Anti-bribery  
and corruption 
compliance

The DOCtrine

The Rule Book

Our ‘Speak Up’ Whistleblowing Policy

Anti-Bribery and Corruption Policy

Suppliers Anti-Bribery and Corruption 
Policy

Third Party Due Diligence Policy

Global Sanctions Compliance Policy

Our employee policy on volunteering – all full-time 
employees get two days annual volunteering 
allowance to volunteer for a charity of their choice.

Our employee policy for matched giving – the 
business will match employee fundraising up to 
£250 if it meets the specific criteria.

Our employee code of conduct

Our employee handbook

Our Speak Up policy provides guidance on raising 
concerns around suspected illegal or unethical 
business practice affecting the Company, its 
employees, customers or suppliers about any 
aspect of the way we do business.

Our Anti-Bribery and Corruption Policy sets out our 
expectations, and the mandatory requirements, of 
our People in respect of Bribery, Corruption, Gifts 
and Hospitality related matters.

Our Suppliers Anti Bribery and Corruption Policy 
sets out the mandatory requirements for those 
doing business with Dr. Martens.

Our Third Party Due Diligence Policy sets out the 
due diligence process to be conducted prior to 
engaging third parties by our People.

Our Global Sanctions Compliance Policy sets out 
the expectations and requirements for compliance 
with sanctions laws when dealing with third parties

The Strategic report, which has been prepared in accordance with the requirements of the Companies Act 2006, has been approved 
by the Board and signed on its behalf.

On behalf of the Board

KENNY WILSON 
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER  
31 May 2023

108

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

GOVERNANCE

In this section
IN THIS SECTION

Chair’s introduction to governance 

Governance at a glance 

Board of Directors 

Governance report 

Global Leadership Team 

Corporate Governance at Dr. Martens 

Nomination Committee report 

Remuneration Committee report 

Remuneration report 

Audit and Risk Committee report 

Directors’ report 

110

112

114 

118

122

124

130

136

139

151

159

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

109

GOVERNANCEChair’s introduction to governance

DEAR  

SHAREHOLDERS
SHAREHOLDERS

On behalf of the Board, I am 
pleased to introduce our 
Corporate Governance report 
for the financial year ended 
31 March 2023 (FY23).

In my Chair’s statement on pages 4 to 5 of 
this Annual Report I referred to FY23 as a 
year with ‘growing pains’; one during which 
we continued to take significant steps 
forward as a business, not least exceeding 
£1bn in total revenue for the first time, 
while also facing into challenges such as 
those impacting our business in the USA, 
which led us to reassess our medium-term 
growth aspirations.

by the firm governance principles that 
enable us to pursue these objectives in  
the right way.

Throughout the Governance report  
that follows, we set out how the Board 
discharged its duties, with regard to the 
priorities of our stakeholders, through  
its activities and those of our Board 
Committees during FY23.

The Board’s agenda in FY23
An outline of the range of matters 
discussed at Board meetings during the 
year can be found on pages 119. More 
information on the work and activities  
of the Nomination, Audit and Risk and 
Remuneration Committees can be found 
from pages 130, 151 and 136 respectively.

In light of this, the Board has adopted  
an approach of cautious optimism and  
its focus remains fixed on leading the 
business to deliver our strategy in the 
interests of all our stakeholders, supported 

Post-Q3 internal review
The internal review of the issues 
impacting our LA distribution centre  
was, among other things, an important 
governance exercise involving the key 

members of our teams in the UK and USA, 
including Supply Chain, Legal and Internal 
Audit. The Board was kept updated on this 
process and discussed its findings and the 
lessons learned at its meetings in March 
2023. While the recovery plan is ongoing 
as at the publication date of this Annual 
Report, the Board is pleased that the 
causes are now fully understood and the 
learnings from the review will shape how 
we do business going forwards. 

Board Evaluation
Having undergone a thorough ‘hybrid’ 
Board Evaluation process last year to assess 
our first full year as a plc Board, which was 
ably led by our Company Secretary and 
external specialist consultancy ghSMART, 
the process we undertook to assess our 
performance and effectiveness during FY23 
was facilitated internally. An overview of 
this can be found in the Nomination 
Committee report on pages 134 to 135.

110

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

THE BOARD’S FOCUS 
REMAINS FIXED ON 
DELIVERING OUR 
STRATEGY IN THE 
INTERESTS OF ALL  
OUR STAKEHOLDERS. 

PAUL MASON  
CHAIR

Following this year’s Board Evaluation, I am 
also delighted to confirm that each of the 
Directors continues to demonstrate a high 
level of effectiveness and commitment to 
their respective roles and in discharging 
their duties as Directors of the Company.

Engaging with stakeholders
During the year, the Executive Directors 
and I met with numerous investors and 
listened closely to their views, particularly 
after our disappointing Q3 trading update. 
These meetings were an important 
opportunity to discuss and understand 
investors’ concerns while re-iterating  
our firmly held belief in the long-term 
potential of this business.

The Board’s engagement with Dr. Martens 
key stakeholder groups is conducted 
using a range of touchpoints, information 
about which can be found on pages 22 to 
29 of the Strategic report. This section, 
which contains our Section 172 Statement, 
identifies our core stakeholder groups 
and describes the ways in which the 
business and Board have considered their 
interests and engaged with them during 
the year, the outcomes of that 

KEY SECTIONS IN THIS REPORT 

UK CORPORATE GOVERNANCE CODE SECTION
LEADERSHIP AND PURPOSE

engagement and how it has influenced 
the Board’s decision-making. This year  
we have drawn out our wholesale 
partners as a distinct stakeholder group 
for the purposes of this report in 
recognition of the significant proportion 
of our business they represent.

Board membership
Andrew Harrison joined us as an 
Independent Non-Executive Director in 
May and, on behalf of the Board, I am 
delighted to welcome him to Dr. Martens. 
Andrew’s significant prior experience as 
both a Chief Executive and a seasoned 
Non-Executive Director will broaden the 
Board’s overall skillset and augment our 
Board discussions with fresh perspectives 
and insight. His appointment was the 
culmination of an extensive and, at times, 
challenging search that was executed  
to a clear brief set by the Nomination 
Committee. This process is explained in 
more detail in the Nomination Committee 
report, which also details the impact of 
this new appointment on our Board’s 
diversity, and can be found from page 135. 
Andrew also joined the Audit and Risk, 
Nomination and Remuneration Committees 
with effect from 1 May, while Ian Rogers 
stepped down from the Remuneration 
Committee on that date.

I am convinced that Andrew will prove to 
be an excellent addition to the Board and  
I have no hesitation in recommending that 
all shareholders join me in supporting his 
election, as well as the re-election of our 
other Board members, to the Board at our 
AGM in July.

Jon remains committed to the business 
and will continue in his role until a suitable 
successor is in place. The Nomination 
Committee has been tasked with 
overseeing this process. Jon has played a 
central role in our success during his seven 
years with the business and he will leave 
with sincere thanks and best wishes for his 
retirement from myself and the Board.

Full biographical details setting out the 
professional backgrounds, skills and 
experience of each of our Board members 
and a summary of the attributes they 
contribute to the Board can be found on 
pages 114 to 117. All of our Independent 
Non-Executive Directors are in the third 
year of the recommended maximum 
nine-year term of service set out in the 
Code. Our longest-serving Non-Executive 
Director is Tara Alhadeff, who has served 
eight full years on the Board having joined 
in May 2015.

AGM
Our AGM on 13 July will offer a further 
opportunity to engage with our investors. 
Full details of this, including the resolutions 
to be proposed for shareholder approval, 
can be found within the Notice of Meeting.

Finally, I would like to conclude with a 
personal note of thanks to all of our 
employees across our global business  
and my fellow Board members for their 
continued, unwavering support of our 
brand and business.

As I mentioned in my Chair’s statement  
at the beginning of this Annual Report, 
subsequent to the year end we also 
announced that our Chief Financial 
Officer, Jon Mortimore, will retire in FY24. 

PAUL MASON 
CHAIR 
31 May 2023

LOCATION OF INFORMATION

Governance at a glance (pages 112 and 113).
Board and Global Leadership Team biographies (pages 114 to 117 and 118 to 119, respectively).
The Board’s role and activities in FY23 (pages 122 and 123).
Stakeholder engagement – Our People (page 25).

DIVISION OF RESPONSIBILITIES

How we delegate responsibilities (pages 120 and 121).

COMPOSITION, SUCCESSION AND EVALUATION Nomination Committee report (pages 130 to 135).

AUDIT, RISK AND INTERNAL CONTROL

Audit and Risk Committee report (pages 151 to 158).

REMUNERATION

Remuneration Committee report (pages 136 to 138).

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

111

GOVERNANCEGovernance at a glance

AT A GLANCE

BOARD TENURE  
AS AT 31 MARCH 2023

37.5%

50%

12.5%

 0-3 years
•  Robyn Perriss
•  Lynne Weedall
•  Ian Rogers
•  Ije Nwokorie

 3-6 years
•  Kenny Wilson

 6+ years
•  Paul Mason
•  Tara Alhadeff
•  Jon Mortimore

GLT TENURE  
AS AT 31 MARCH 2023

18.2%

45.4%

36.4%

1.   Lorenzo Moretti left the 
business in May 2023.

 0-3 years
•  Adam Meek
•  Meg Johnson
•  Jennifer Somer
•  Ronald Garricks
•  Lorenzo Moretti1

 3-6 years
•  Erik Zambon
•  Derek Chan
•  Kenny Wilson
•  Geert Peeters 

 6+ years

•  Emily Reichwald
•  Jon Mortimore

GENDER IDENTITY OF  
SENIOR MANAGEMENT1

41% 2%

57%

  Male (35 employees) 
  Female (25 employees) 
  Non-binary (1 employee) 
  Prefer to self-describe 

57%
41%
2%
0%

1.   Comprises GLT direct reports and subsidiary 
company directors. Confirmation of gender 
identity requested on a voluntary basis in the FY23 
Engagement and Inclusion Survey. The figures 
above exclude ‘prefer not say’ and blank selections.

112

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

BOARD SKILLS AND EXPERIENCE

Brand/
consumer

Financial

Retail

Digital

PLC

International1

Independent?

Paul Mason

Kenny Wilson

Jon Mortimore

Tara Alhadeff

Ije Nwokorie

Ian Rogers

Robyn Perriss

Lynne Weedall

Andrew Harrison2

1.  Senior roles outside the UK.
2.  Joined on 1 May 2023.

ATTENDANCE AT MEETINGS HELD DURING FY23
The attendance of each Director at the 11 meetings the Board held in total in FY23 
is set out below. In addition to Board and Committee meetings, sufficient time is 
provided, periodically, for the Chairman to meet privately with the Senior Independent 
Director and the Non-Executive Directors to discuss any matters arising.

For information on the Board’s activities during FY23, see pages 118 and 119.

Number of meetings held

Board

111

Audit and Risk 
Committee

Remuneration 
Committee

Nomination 
Committee

6

5

4

1 April 2022 – 31 March 2023
Number attended/max number could have attended:

Paul Mason

Kenny Wilson

Jon Mortimore

Tara Alhadeff

Robyn Perriss

Ian Rogers

Ije Nwokorie

Lynne Weedall

11/11

11/11

11/11

11/11

11/11

 10/11

 11/11

 11/11

6/6

6/6

6/6

5/5

5/5

5/5

4/4

3/42

4/4

2/43

4/4

4/4

1.  There were 8 scheduled and 3 unscheduled Board meetings held in FY23.
2.   Tara Alhadeff was unable to attend the Nomination Committee meeting on 1 March 2023 due to a  

pre-existing business commitment. This was notified prior to the Chair of the Committee.

3.   Ian Rogers was unable to attend the additional Board meeting on 27 February 2023 and the 

Nomination Committees on 1 March and 29 March due to pre-existing business commitments.  
This was notified prior to the Chair of the Board and the Committee.

REPORTING TABLE ON ETHNIC BACKGROUND OF THE BOARD AS AT 31 MARCH 2023

Percentage of 
the Group Board

12.5%

Number of
Board
members

Number of senior
positions on the
Board (CEO,
CFO, SID and Chair)

Number of
Executive
Directors

Percentage of
Executive
Directors

Whole 
Board

87.5%

  White British or other White  
(including minority-white groups)

 Black/African/Caribbean/Black British

 Other ethnic group, including Arab

  Asian/Asian British

  Mixed/Multiple Ethnic Groups

  Not specified/prefer not to say

7

1

0

0

0

0

4

0

0

0

0

0

2

0

0

0

0

0

100% 87.5%

0% 12.5%

0%

0%

0%

0%

0%

0%

0%

0%

REPORTING TABLE ON ETHNIC BACKGROUND OF THE GLT AS AT 31 MARCH 2023

Percentage of 
the Global Leadership Team

Number of
GLT members

9.1%

9.1%

9.1%

72.7%

  White British or other White  
(including minority-white groups)

 Black/African/Caribbean/Black British

 Other ethnic group, including Arab

 Asian/Asian British

  Mixed/Multiple Ethnic Groups

  Not specified/prefer not to say

8

1

1

1

0

0

REPORTING TABLE ON GENDER IDENTITY OF THE BOARD AS AT 31 MARCH 2023

Percentage of 
the Group Board

62.5%

 Men

37.5%

 Women

 Not specified/prefer not to say

Number of
Board
members

Number of senior
positions on the
Board (CEO,
CFO, SID and Chair)

Number of
Executive
Directors

Percentage of
Executive
Directors

Whole 
Board

5

3

0

3

1

0

2

0

0

100% 62.5%

0% 37.5%

0%

0%

REPORTING TABLE ON GENDER IDENTITY OF THE GLT AS AT 31 MARCH 2023

Percentage of 
the Global Leadership Team

72.7%

 Men

27.3%

 Women

 Not specified/prefer not to say

Number of
GLT members

8

3

0

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

113

GOVERNANCEBoard of Directors

OUR EXPERIENCED

BOARD

THE BOARD’S PRIMARY RESPONSIBILITY  
IS LEADING THE COMPANY TO DELIVER 
SUSTAINABLE, PROFITABLE GROWTH GLOBALLY 
AND DRIVE LONG-TERM VALUE FOR  
THE SHAREHOLDERS OF DR. MARTENS PLC. 

IT SETS A CLEAR TONE FROM THE TOP  
BY PROVIDING ENTREPRENEURIAL LEADERSHIP 
OF THE BUSINESS AND CUSTODIANSHIP OF THE  
DR. MARTENS BRAND.

L – R
Robyn Perriss, Ije Nwokorie, Ian Rogers, Lynne Weedall, Paul Mason,  
Tara Alhadeff, Kenny Wilson, Jon Mortimore and Emily Reichwald. 

114

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

PAUL MASON
Chair

Appointed: September 2015

Favourite pair of Docs:
BLACK 2976  
CHELSEA BOOTS

Experience: 
Paul has extensive experience in retail and 
consumer brand businesses, having chaired 
six consumer businesses over the past 
14 years including New Look, Mayborn 
(Tommee Tippee), Radley and Cath Kidston.

Paul spent his executive career within the 
retail sector, including as Chief Executive 
Officer of Somerfield PLC where he led the 
successful re-engineering of the business 
and sold the company to Co-op in 2009. 
Paul has also held positions as European 
President of Levi Strauss & Co and Chief 
Executive Officer of Matalan and Asda.

How Paul supports the Company’s 
strategy and long-term success: 
Paul has deep and extensive knowledge 
of Dr. Martens having been involved from 
when it was a private company, through 
the transition to a listed business. He is 
therefore well placed to hold both a 
strategic and operational view of the 
business and provide robust challenge. 
His style is open and inclusive and he 
seeks to understand the perspective of all 
stakeholders with recent emphasis being 
on investor interaction and feedback 
following the difficult Q3 period. Paul’s 
ability to foster a transparent and open 
dynamic in the boardroom has once again 
been highlighted through the Board 
Effectiveness Review this year. 

Committee membership

 Audit and Risk 

 Nomination 

 Remuneration 

 Disclosure 

 Employee Representative Director 

 Chair

KENNY WILSON
Chief Executive Officer

Appointed: July 2018

Favourite pair of Docs:
1460 BLACK  
SMOOTH

Experience: 
Kenny has over 30 years’ experience 
building and growing global consumer 
brands. At Dr. Martens, he led the 
transition from private limited company 
to publicly listed business during the 
global pandemic. Prior to joining the 
business, Kenny was Chief Executive 
Officer of Cath Kidston for seven years. 
Before that he was President, Europe for 
Claire’s Accessories, where he doubled 
profitability in two years. Kenny spent 19 
years at Levi Strauss & Co where he was 
a key player in expanding the Levi’s 
brand across the European region, as 
President, Levi’s Brand EMEA and Senior 
Vice President, Commercial Operations.

How Kenny supports the Company’s 
strategy and long-term success: 
Kenny is focused on custodianship of the 
brand and the business. He has led the 
business through some challenging times 
during the year, seeking to navigate the 
short term, while never compromising on 
the long-term success of the business. His 
genuine and deep affinity for the brand, 
combined with his extensive experience 
in the branded goods sector, guides his 
decision-making and leadership. Kenny  
is regarded as open minded; a CEO who 
listens first and is willing to adapt to  
new approaches. In the boardroom he 
welcomes challenge and debate and is 
keen to learn from others’ perspectives 
and insights. He is a popular leader who 
readily engages with employees and is 
committed to leading Dr. Martens through 
its next stage of evolution. 

JON MORTIMORE
Chief Financial Officer

Appointed: April 2016

LYNNE WEEDALL
Senior Independent Director

Appointed: January 2021

Favourite pair of Docs:
CHURCH VINTAGE  
SMOOTH LEATHER  
MONKEY BOOTS

Experience: 
Jon is an experienced CFO with over 
30 years of experience in senior finance 
positions including within the retail sector. 
Prior to joining the business, Jon was the 
Chief Financial Officer of Avant Homes, 
which was successfully sold to a consortium 
of funds in 2015. Before that, he was 
Chief Financial Officer of Travelodge and 
was the Finance Director for both WHSmith 
Retail and Hodder Headline.

Jon is a Chartered Accountant.

How Jon supports the Company’s 
strategy and long-term success:
Jon’s extensive financial experience 
provides the Board with an essential 
skillset, which coupled with his commercial 
mindset, enables him to analyse and 
forecast the Company’s financial 
performance in line with the DOCS strategy. 
He is well respected for his command of the 
detail combined with a broad overview of 
the strategy and a deep understanding of 
the business and its drivers. He leads a 
strong Finance function across all regions, 
regularly visiting those regions to build 
relationships and create alignment across 
the finance teams and their stakeholders 
to ensure a robust and resilient financial 
ecosystem within Dr. Martens. 

Jon announced his retirement in April 
2023 and will continue in his role as 
Chief Financial Officer until a suitable 
replacement is in place, to ensure a 
smooth transition for the Company. 

Favourite pair of Docs:
CHERRY RED AVERIL  
ANKLE BOOTS

Experience: 
Lynne has a career spanning over 30 years 
in numerous executive and non-executive 
roles in UK public limited companies and 
large private limited companies. Lynne has 
advised boards on complex transformations 
in a variety of sectors. Lynne was Group 
Human Resource Director for Selfridges 
Group, Group Human Resource and Strategy 
Director for Carphone Warehouse plc and 
was part of the leadership team that drove 
the merger integration at Dixons Carphone, 
becoming Group Human Resource Director 
of Dixons Carphone plc. Lynne was a 
Non-Executive Director and Remuneration 
Committee Chair of Greene King plc from 
2012 until 2019, William Hill plc from 2019 
until 2021 and Treatt plc from 2019 to 
September 2022. She also held senior roles 
at Whitbread plc, Bupa and Tesco plc.

How Lynne supports the Company’s 
strategy and long-term success: 
Lynne is an experienced non-executive 
director and continues to chair the 
Nomination and Remuneration 
Committees with diligence. She has 
supported colleagues and employees 
through a challenging period of 
increasing cost-of-living pressures and 
difficult headwinds for the Company. 
Lynne is respected for her ability to offer 
alternative perspectives and pragmatic 
approaches to issues. She takes a people 
centred and holistic view to balancing 
the interests of stakeholders. 

Other appointments: Non-Executive 
Director of Softcat PLC, and Greggs plc, 
Trustee of The Prince’s Trust, Non-
Executive Director and Remuneration 
Committee Chair of Stagecoach Group Ltd 
and Director of LW2019 Ltd.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

115

GOVERNANCEBoard of Directors continued

ROBYN PERRISS
Independent Non-Executive Director

IJE NWOKORIE
Independent Non-Executive Director

IAN ROGERS
Independent Non-Executive Director

Appointed: January 2021

Appointed: January 2021

Appointed: January 2021

Favourite pair of Docs:
1460 PASCAL

Experience: 
Robyn has extensive financial and 
governance expertise and wide-ranging 
technology and media industry experience. 
She served as the Finance Director at 
Rightmove plc, a FTSE 100 company, until 
June 2020. She has first-hand experience of 
high growth through digital disruption, while 
driving improvements in governance and 
strategic oversight within organisations. 
Before joining Rightmove, Robyn was Group 
Financial Controller at Auto Trader, another 
media sector distributor.

Robyn qualified as a Chartered Accountant 
in South Africa with KPMG and worked  
in both audit and transaction services. 
Robyn also has a Bachelor of Commerce 
(Honours in Accounting) from the 
University of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa.

How Robyn supports the Company’s 
strategy and long-term success: 
Robyn has chaired the Audit and Risk 
Committee diligently through  
a challenging year, which included a 
transition to a new auditor. She is 
appreciated for her financial expertise, 
capital markets experience and sound 
judgement, as well as her support and 
guidance to the broader Finance function. 

As Employee Representative Non-
Executive Director, Robyn regularly 
engages with employees globally and 
keeps the Board abreast of the key 
themes. She has embraced this role in an 
open and thoughtful way with an emphasis 
on ensuring that employees feel able to 
speak their minds. Robyn is also valued 
for her deep knowledge of the regulatory 
landscape and focus on ESG matters, 
which enables her to support and guide 
the Board and functional heads. She 
enjoys spending time in the business and 
mentors Dr. Martens’ senior employees 
who value her expertise and experience. 

Other appointments: Non-Executive 
Director of Softcat PLC, Huel Ltd, and 
Next Fifteen Group plc, where she also 
chairs their respective audit committees.

Favourite pair of Docs:
CHERRY RED VEGAN 
LEATHER 1460

Experience: 
Ije has built a career balancing technology, 
creativity and leadership built on his 
experience of growing up in Nigeria, a 
world where commerce, culture and 
creativity are intertwined in everyday life. 
He is currently Senior Director, WW Retail 
Engagement and Marketing at Apple Inc. 
Prior to that, he spent 11 years at global 
brand consultancy Wolff Olins, where he 
was Chief Executive Officer of the group’s 
offices in London, Dubai, New York and 
San Francisco, helping some of the world’s 
most exciting businesses build their 
brands for the digital age. He is Chair  
of non-profit organisation charity: water 
and was the Chair of Trustees for 
Chineke!, the first professional orchestra in 
Europe to be made up of majority Black, 
Asian and ethnic minority musicians, 
until September 2022.

How Ije supports the Company’s 
strategy and long-term success:
Ije brings his extensive current global 
brand, retail and digital experience to Board 
discussions which is highly valued by Board 
colleagues and the Senior Leadership Team 
alike. Ije provides constructive challenge 
and alternative perspectives which  
create new insights and lead to different 
avenues of thought and exploration. He is 
highly appreciated for his open, curious 
and broad-minded approach as well as his 
engaging and supportive style. He provides 
mentorship to the marketing team who 
value his understanding of the brand 
coupled with his experience and up to 
date knowledge of the market. 

Other appointments: Senior Director at 
Apple Inc, Chair of charity: water.

Favourite pair of Docs:
THE CLASSIC 1460

Experience: 
Ian is currently Chief Experience Officer 
at Ledger, a role he has held since 2020. 
At Ledger he oversees its consumer 
facing offer, protecting digital assets 
under management. Prior to that, he  
was the Chief Digital Officer at LVMH, 
working with a large portfolio of luxury 
retail brands including Louis Vuitton, 
Dior and Sephora, and where he 
continues to act as an Advisor. Ian’s 
other previous roles include CEO of 
Beats Music, President and Chief 
Technology Officer at Mediacode and 
Webmaster at Winamp. Ian contributed 
to the 2015 launch of Apple Music, 
including digital streaming channel 
Beats 1. Ian has been a pioneer of 
music-related websites, building some  
of the earliest in the early 1990s.

Ian has a Bachelor of Arts in Computer 
Science (with Honours, Phi Beta Kappa) 
from Indiana University.

How Ian supports the Company’s 
strategy and long-term success: 
Ian’s extensive previous and current 
retail, digital and music experience, and 
his lifelong passion for the brand, brings 
a valuable dimension to the boardroom. 
Ian’s knowledge of cultural shifts and 
future trends enhances the debate and 
dialogue both between Board members 
and within the business. His expertise in 
the digital realm and his USA experience 
are highly appreciated by the relevant 
business teams who he generously 
supports with his time and wide-ranging 
connections within the industry.

Other appointments: Chief Experience 
Officer at Ledger, Advisor at LVMH, 
Board Observer at Lyst.

Note on Committee membership: Ian 
stepped down from the Remuneration 
Committee with effect from 1 May 2023, 
having been a member of that 
committee throughout FY23.

116

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Committee membership

 Audit and Risk 

 Nomination 

 Remuneration 

 Disclosure 

 Employee Representative Director 

 Chair

INCOMING APPOINTMENT  
FOR FY24

TARA ALHADEFF
Non-Independent Non-Executive Director

ANDREW HARRISON
Independent Non-Executive Director

EMILY REICHWALD
Company Secretary

Appointed: May 2015

Appointed: May 2023

Appointed: Jan 2021

Favourite pair of Docs:
SPARKLY BLACK  
MADE IN  
ENGLAND 1461

Experience: 
Tara is a partner at global investment 
firm Permira, where she is responsible 
for brand investing within the consumer 
sector. Since joining Permira in 2008, 
she has worked with many brands, 
retailers, consumer internet, and on 
major transactions including Permira’s 
acquisition of Dr. Martens. She was 
initially appointed to the Board in May 
2015 and became a Non-Independent 
Non-Executive Director in January 2021.

Tara is a non-executive director at  
Hana Group and Golden Goose and has 
experience as a director of several 
companies. Previously, Tara worked in 
investment banking at Morgan Stanley.

Tara has a Bachelor of Science in Economics 
from Cambridge University and a Master 
of Business Administration from Harvard.

How Tara supports the Company’s 
strategy and long-term success: 
Tara is the longest-standing member of 
the Board and was instrumental in the 
transformation from a family-owned 
business during private ownership. Tara 
has deep knowledge of the business  
and international sector expertise.  
Her multiple reference points across 
industries bring valuable insight to the 
Board and enhance the quality of debate 
and discussion. Tara’s collaborative and 
approachable style, financial acumen 
and thorough understanding of the 
brand and business drivers have been 
invaluable in helping the Board navigate 
challenges during the year. Tara’s 
position also facilitates positive 
shareholder engagement with Permira.

Other appointments: Partner at 
Permira Advisers LLP, Director at 
SixPlatform VIII Limited, Member of 
Supervisory Board at Hazel ParentCo 
SAS, Non-Executive Director at Hana 
Group and Golden Goose.

Favourite pair of Docs:
2976 CRAZY  
HORSE BROWN

Andrew joined the Board in  
May 2023 when he was appointed as 
Non-Executive Director. Andrew also 
joins the Audit and Risk Committee, 
Nomination Committee, Disclosure 
Committee and Remuneration Committee. 

Experience: 
Andrew brings a wealth of listed 
company experience to the Board and its 
Committees. He is currently the Senior 
Independent Director at Ocado Group plc, 
where he is also chair of the Remuneration 
Committee and designated Non-Executive 
Director for engagement with the 
workforce. Andrew is also a managing 
partner at consumer brand investment 
firm Freston Ventures. 

Andrew built his executive career over 
more than two decades at Carphone 
Warehouse, where he served as Chief 
Executive and Chair. As a member of the 
early founding team, he drove the 
growth and international expansion of 
Carphone Warehouse from a small, 
privately owned retailer to established 
market leader and FTSE constituent, 
subsequently leading the merger of the 
business with Dixons in 2014, where he 
was Deputy Chief Executive. 

Andrew has a BA (Hons) in Management 
Studies from the University of Leeds.

The Board welcomes Andrew and is excited 
to collaborate further with him in FY24. 

Other appointments: Senior 
Independent Director at Ocado Group 
plc, Chair at WhoCanFixMyCar.com Ltd, 
Chair at Strike Limited, Chair at Chicken 
Shop (Chik’n Ltd), Designated Member  
of Freston Ventures Investments LLP, 
Director at Smiles and Smiles Holding 
Limited, Chair of Trustees at The Mix.

Favourite pair of Docs:
SHINY SILVER 1461

Experience:
Emily joined Dr. Martens in 2015 as 
General Counsel and became Company 
Secretary upon the Company listing on 
the London Stock Exchange in 2021. 

Emily has been a member of the Global 
Leadership Team since joining Dr. Martens. 
Having led the Legal and Sustainability 
teams for a number of years, Emily added 
HR to her remit in 2022. Emily also chairs 
the Dr. Martens Foundation. 

Prior to joining Dr. Martens, Emily held 
senior legal positions in large international 
businesses including Director Legal at Akzo 
Nobel global specialty chemicals in the 
Netherlands. She previously held other 
senior legal positions at Akzo Nobel n.v. 
and ICI plc. Emily trained and qualified as 
a solicitor at Linklaters, practising in the 
corporate department during which time 
she was seconded to GE Capital and BP 
plc. Emily was a Non-Executive Director of 
National Energy Action from 2015 to 2018 
where she gained valuable experience 
being a non-executive director, and insight 
into the charity sector, the experience of 
which she utilises as Chair of the 
Dr. Martens Foundation.

Emily has a degree in English Law and 
French Law from the University of 
Manchester and Université de Bourgogne.

How Emily supports the Company’s 
strategy and long-term success:
Emily is a valued adviser to the Board. 
She has built strong relationships with 
the Board and works closely with the 
Chair and the CEO. The combination of 
her roles exposes her to all aspects of 
Dr. Martens enabling close connectivity 
between the Board and stakeholders on 
relevant issues.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

117

GOVERNANCEGovernance report

BOARD ACTIVITIES

The vast majority of the Board’s 
significant discussions, debates and 
decisions take place during its regular, 
scheduled Board meetings. These are 
supplemented by its annual strategy 
off-site, visits to key markets and, where 
needed, additional deep dives to provide 
deeper understanding of and context 
around key issues.

These pages provide an overview of the 
range of matters the Board discussed at its 
meetings held during the year, including 
the outcomes of those discussions and 
further detail on some of the key decisions 
it took. While not an exhaustive list of 
every item considered by the Board over 
the course of the year, this information 
provides insight into the nature and 
substance of the conversations that take 
place in the boardroom and how the 
Board’s activities continue to focus on 
delivering the DOCS strategy with due 
regard to the interests of all of the Group’s 
key stakeholder groups.

Board cadence
Our Board meetings are an important 
mechanism through which the Directors 
discharge their duties, particularly under 
Section 172 of the Companies Act 2006. 
Agendas are agreed in advance by the 
Chairman and Company Secretary 
following discussion about proposed topics 
and focus areas with the Chief Executive 
Officer and Chief Financial Officer. Overall, 
agendas are tailored to appropriately 
balance detailed updates from the 
Executive Directors on trading and 
financial performance with ‘deep dives’ 
into specific strategic priority areas and 
the range of governance related and other 
matters that require the Board’s attention. 

During FY23, the Board’s cadence was 
further refined through its decision to 
extend the length but reduce the overall 
number of Board meetings scheduled to 
be held annually. This decision was taken 
in response to feedback provided during 
last year’s Board Effectiveness Review 
that it would improve the Board’s overall 
effectiveness by concentrating its time 
together for longer periods but less 
frequently. To the extent possible, 
meetings are scheduled to align with the 
wider cadence of the business to ensure 
that they take place at optimal points 
throughout the year.

118

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

April 2022
A
B R

   GLT Market Visit (Texas) 
Board Market Visit (New York)

June 2022
B GLT

  Board Strategy Away Days

 Full Year Investor Roadshows

  FY22 Full Year results 
Publication of FY22 Annual 
Report and AGM Notice of 
Meeting

August 2022

   Employee Listening Group 
(APAC)

October 2022
B

   Board Market Visit – Milan 
GLT Market Visit – Tokyo 
Employee Listening Group 
(Group and EMEA)

December 2022

   FY23 H1 Results Investor 
Roadshow

February 2023
B

   GLT Off Site 
FY23 Chair Listening Roadshow 

 BOARD CALENDAR 

May 2022
B R A GLT

July 2022
B A N AGM

   EMEA Conversion Markets 
Presentation 
GLT Market Visit – Berlin 
GLT Sustainability update

  AGM trading update

September 2022
B R

A

   Time for Tomorrow  
Investor Roadshows (USA) 
Employee Listening Group  
(Cobbs Lane office and factory)

November 2022
A N
B R

   FY23 H1 Results Investor 
Roadshow

  FY23 Half Year Results

January 2023
GLT
B A

   Employee Listening Groups 
(EMEA (Non-Retail)) 
Group Investor Conference  
FY23 Q3 Investor Roadshow 

  Q3 Trading Statement

March 2023
B R N GLT

   Two Employee Listening Groups 
(USA and EMEA) 

  Announcement of the appointment 
of Andrew Harrison

Director attended events

Scheduled meetings:

Key market announcements

B  Board

R  Remuneration Committee

A  Audit and Risk Committee

N  Nomination Committee

AGM  Annual 
General Meeting

GLT  Global 
Leadership Team

 
 AREAS OF FOCUS IN FY23 

April 2022

November 2022

C

F

G

•  Approved an investment in recycled leather 
producer, Generation Phoenix Limited (see 
page 23 for more information)

•  Reviewed FY23 Half Year results 

•  Approved FY23 interim dividend 
•  Approved a pension triennial valuation 
•  Approved transfer of UK pension scheme  

to a master trust 

•  Approved D&O insurance renewal 

January 2023

C

F

G

•  Approved capacity increase at the  

distribution centre in New Jersey, USA

•  Reviewed a Marketing update

•  Reviewed feedback from the Q3 trading 

statement

•  Reviewed the FY23 Board Evaluation plan 
•  Reviewed Board meeting cadence 
•  Annual review and approval of Governance 

policies and the Conflicts of Interest Register

February 2023

C

•  Reviewed an update on the LA distribution 

centre 

March 2023

•  Discussed the report on the internal review  

of issues impacting the LA distribution centre

•  Discussed capital allocation

•  Reviewed and Approved the FY24 budget 
•  Reviewed the Q4 trading update

•  Reviewed the Delegation of Authority Policy
•  Approved appointment of new Independent 

Non-Executive Director

•  Reviewed FY23 Board Evaluation insights

C

F

G

P

C

G

•  Reflected on US Market Visit
•  Reviewed Japan market transfer strategy
•  Reviewed a Supply Chain update

•  Reviewed reflections on the FY22 Board 

Evaluation, including the Directors’ individual 
commitments

May 2022

C

G

•  Approved approach to investing in  

sustainable materials 

•  Reviewed the DOCS strategy 

•  Approved FY22 Annual Report and  

final dividend

•  Reviewed FY22 results and AGM Notice  

of Meeting

June 2022

C

•  Reviewed an update on the Chinese market
•  Attended a two-day strategy off-site focused 

on a deep-dive into key areas and longer-term 
planning

July 2022

F

G

P

•  Discussed capital allocation

•  Held FY22 AGM 

•  Reviewed an update on engagement  

and inclusion

September 2022

•  Reviewed sustainability Science-Based Targets

•  Reviewed FY23 3+9 forecast 
•  Reviewed the long-term funding proposal  

for the Dr. Martens Foundation

•  Approved Modern Slavery Statement 

C

F

G

October 2022

C

F

P

•  Milan Market Visit 
•  Reviewed a China market update 

•  Discussed capital allocation 

•  Reviewed a Dr. Martens Foundation  

Trustee Update

Standing items at Board meetings: 
•  Updates from the Chairs of the Audit and Risk and Remuneration Committees 

Key:

on the activities of those Committees

•  Updates from the Employee Representative Non-Executive Director on the 

themes raised at Employee Listening Groups

•  Updates from the Chief Executive Officer and Chief Financial Officer
•  Investor relations activities and share register analysis
•  External communications activity updates 
•  Summaries of matters approved at the Operating and Real Estate Committees
•  Governance and Sustainability horizon scanning updates 
•  Annual reviews of the Board’s policies and processes

C  Company Strategy and Performance

F  Financial Updates

G  Governance

P  People and Culture

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

119

GOVERNANCEGovernance report 
Division of responsibilities

GETTING THINGS DONE: HOW WE DELEGATE
RESPONSIBILITIES

The following pages illustrate our governance framework  
and, in particular, how the Board delegates authority  
to its Committees and the wider business.

THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE BOARD AS A 
WHOLE, THE EXECUTIVE DIRECTORS AND THE  
GLT IS ROOTED IN A CULTURE OF OPEN, HONEST 
DISCUSSION AND CONSTRUCTIVE FEEDBACK. 

EMILY REICHWALD  
COMPANY SECRETARY

Board Committees
To maximise its effectiveness and ensure 
sufficient time and attention can be 
devoted to the key matters requiring  
its attention, the Board has delegated 
authority in certain areas to its three 
principal Board Committees and the 
Market Disclosure Committee. Clear terms 
of reference are in place for each Board 
Committee, which are reviewed annually 
and refreshed as and when necessary. 
More information on each of the principal 
Board Committees can be found below 
and in each of their respective reports, 
covering pages 130 to 158.

DELEGATION OF AUTHORITY

DR . MARTENS PLC 
BOARD

AUDIT AND RISK COMMITTEE1 

  READ MORE P151

•  Assists the Board in discharging its responsibilities in relation to financial reporting.
•  Monitors and reviews the Group’s financial controls and systems.
•  Advises on the appointment of, manages the relationship with, and monitors the 

effectiveness of the external auditor.

•  Reviews the effectiveness of wider compliance, including the whistleblowing and fraud 

systems in place within the Group.

REMUNERATION COMMITTEE1 

  READ MORE P136

•  Develops and monitors the ongoing appropriateness of the Group’s policy on Executive 

remuneration.

•  Determines the levels of remuneration for the Board and leadership.
•  Monitors remuneration structures and recommends changes.
•  Reviews overall workforce remuneration and related policies and the alignment of 

incentives and rewards with culture and takes these into account when determining the 
remuneration of the Board and leadership.

NOMINATION COMMITTEE1 

  READ MORE P130

•  Reviews the structure, size and composition of the Board.
•  Recommends potential Board and senior management appointments and reappointments to 

the Board.

•  Oversees succession planning for the Company’s Directors and Global Leadership Team.
•  Monitors effectiveness of policies and strategy for diversity, equity and inclusion.

MARKET DISCLOSURE COMMITTEE

•  Membership comprises the Executive and Non-Executive Directors, Company Secretary, 
Director of Investor Relations, Communications Director and Director of Finance Control.

•  Oversight of all market disclosure requirements, including approving for publication statements 

relating to the Group’s performance or containing potentially price-sensitive information.
•  Oversees compliance with the Market Abuse Regulation, in particular the Group’s processes  

for the identification, management and public disclosure of inside information.

1.  Principal Board Committees.

120

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Executive Directors and Global 
Leadership Team (GLT)
Responsibility for the execution of the 
Group’s strategy and day-to-day 
management of the business has been 
delegated by the Board to the Executive 
Directors with the support of the GLT. The 
Board regularly invites members of the 
GLT and relevant members of their teams 
to attend and present at Board meetings 
on topics of strategic importance to inform 
and guide its thinking and ultimately result 
in more effective decision-making. The 
Board’s relationship with the Executive 
Directors and the GLT is secured through 
clear and open lines of communication, 
supported by a culture of open, honest 
discussion and constructive feedback. 

different layers of management across the 
business to promote the efficient running 
of the business. These are reviewed by the 
Board annually and include:

   Delegation of Authority Policy

   Schedule of Matters Reserved for  
the Board

  Articles of Association

  Board Committee terms of reference

  Non-Executive Director Policy

  Non-Audit Services Policy

   Business-wide and PDMR Securities 
Dealing Codes

  Disclosure Policy

Delegated authorities and 
governance policies
The Board has implemented a number  
of policies, guidelines and procedures to 
govern its conduct, the manner in which it 
operates and how it delegates authority to 

   Division of Duties document (covering 
the Chair, CEO, Senior Independent 
Director and Employee Representative 
Non-Executive Director)

These documents are available to view on 
drmartensplc.com.

The Group’s Delegation of Authority 
Policy formally sets out the nature and 
extent of the authority that allows 
designated employees to act on behalf  
of the Company. Internal requirements  
in respect of the conduct of the business 
and its employees are set out in the 
numerous Group-wide policies, standards 
and guidelines that comprise our internal 
compliance framework.

The Board maintains oversight of the 
authorities delegated to Board Committees 
and the Executive Directors through clear 
reporting channels. The Chairs of each 
Board Committee report to the Board on 
the matters considered and approved by 
those Committees. The Chief Executive 
Officer and Chief Financial Officer provide 
detailed updates at each Board meeting, 
supported by regular updates by members 
of the GLT, written summaries of matters 
considered and approved by the Operating 
and Real Estate Committees, in addition to 
a regular suite of written reports.

OPERATING COMMITTEE
Chaired by the Company Secretary. Provides oversight to 
ensure appropriate governance and implementation of the 
delegation of authorities and discusses relevant proposals  
to ensure proper governance processes are followed.

OPERATIONAL RISK COMMITTEE
Chaired by the Head of Internal Audit and Risk. Oversees 
development and implementation of an effective risk 
management approach. Facilitates review and challenge of  
the identification, prioritisation and management of key risks.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTORS
The Executive Directors are responsible for the 
day-to-day management of the business with the 
support of the GLT. All matters not reserved specifically 
for the Board or the Board Committees and necessary 
for the ongoing management of the business are 
delegated to the Executive Directors. In the interests of 
good governance, the Executive Directors exercise some 
of their delegated authority through committees such  
as the Operating Committee, Real Estate Committee and 
Sustainability Committee. 

GLOBAL LEADERSHIP TEAM
Reporting into the CEO, this constitutes the Group’s core 
leadership team with accountability over each of our 
regional and central global business functions: EMEA, 
America, APAC, IT and Digital, Strategy, Product, 
Marketing, Finance, Legal & Compliance and HR and 
Sustainability. This group is responsible for the day-to-day 
management of the business and ensuring Board 
oversight requirements are met.

REAL ESTATE COMMITTEE
Chaired by the CFO. Facilitates full review and discussion  
of all property-related proposals and growth strategies in  
each of our key regions.

SUSTAINABILITY COMMITTEE
Chaired by the CEO. Reviews and makes recommendations to the 
Board on the Group’s sustainability and ESG-related initiatives, as 
well as its policies and performance in relation to social, environmental 
and community matters. Keeps the Board updated on relevant 
ESG-related developments and their impact on the business.

OVERSIGHT

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

121

GOVERNANCEGlobal Leadership Team

MEET THE GLOBAL
LEADERSHIP TEAM

Our Global Leadership Team (known throughout  
the business as the ‘GLT’) believe in being brand 
custodians, focused on protecting and enhancing  
the brand and the business for future generations. 

Its membership includes the Executive Directors 
together with the Presidents of our core regions of 
APAC, America and EMEA and the leaders of our key 
business functions. The GLT manages the day-to-day 
business operations and therefore plays an essential 
role in continuing to build on the implementation of 
the DOCS strategy and driving it forwards to deliver 
value for our shareholders and stakeholders over  
the longer term. 

GEERT PEETERS
Chief Operating Officer

Joined: June 2018

RONALD GARRICKS
Chief Information Officer

Joined: April 2020

EMILY REICHWALD
Chief People and Sustainability Officer 
and Company Secretary

Favourite pair of Docs:

Favourite pair of Docs:

1460 MADE  
IN ENGLAND

CORONADO

Prior to joining the business, Geert was 
Chief Operating Officer of Cath Kidston 
Ltd. He has held senior supply chain 
roles in several global businesses, 
including VF Corporation and drinks 
firm Bacardi and was also a senior 
vice-president at Levi Strauss & Co. 

Geert has a Master of Science in Textile 
Engineering from Ghent University,  
an Executive Master of Business 
Administration from Flanders Business 
School and a master’s degree in Operations 
and Supply Chain Management from 
Vlerick Business School.

Ronald has built his career helping 
businesses transform IT into a key 
enabler to support sustainable growth. 
His previous roles have including 
positions at global payment platform 
Worldpay and international law firm 
Allen & Overy. Prior to joining the 
business, Ronald held a senior interim 
role within the Digital Transformation 
programme at IKEA. He has an 
Executive Master of Business 
Administration from Cass Business 
School, London, and Bachelor of 
Science (Hons) in Information Systems 
from the University of West London.

Joined: April 2015

Favourite pair of Docs:

SHINY SILVER  
1461

Emily’s remit expanded during FY23 to 
include formal responsibility for HR and 
Sustainability in addition to the Legal 
and Company Secretariat functions. 
Over her eight years with Dr. Martens 
Emily has become a trusted adviser  
to the Board and has been intrinsic  
in building the Dr. Martens culture.  
This, coupled with her long tenure and 
strong management experience, has 
enabled her to smoothly transition  
into her new role and continue to 
develop the HR function. Read more 
about Emily’s previous experience, 
qualifications and Company Secretary 
role on page 117.

122

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

ERIK ZAMBON
Strategy Director

Joined: April 2017

DEREK CHAN
President, APAC

Joined: September 2019

JENNIFER SOMER 
President, Americas

Joined: November 2021

Favourite pair of Docs:

Favourite pair of Docs:

Favourite pair of Docs:

1460 MADE IN  
ENGLAND IN BLACK  
QUILON LEATHER

Erik started his career in management 
consulting. He joined Kurt Salmon and 
worked with retailers, consumer goods 
and luxury brands on large scale strategy 
and transformation initiatives in EMEA 
and Japan. He left consulting to join 
Calvin Klein where he led the brand, 
merchandising and planning functions for 
the European apparel and accessories 
divisions. Prior to joining Dr. Martens, Erik 
held global senior roles in merchandising 
at AllSaints and latterly at Joseph. 

Erik has a Master of Arts (Hons) degree 
in Modern and Medieval Languages and 
Management Studies from Cambridge 
University.

2976  
CHELSEA BOOT

NAVY 1460  
SMOOTH LEATHER

Derek has extensive experience in 
consumer brands having previously 
held senior roles at Nike and Amazon  
in China and leadership positions in 
companies including Levi Strauss & Co.

Prior to joining the business, Derek  
was Vice President, Softlines & Media 
at Amazon China. 

Derek has a Masters degree in Business 
Administration from Hong Kong 
University of Science & Technology.

Jennifer joined Dr. Martens from UGG 
and Koolaburra Footwear, part of the 
Deckers Corporation, where she was 
Global General Manager. Prior to that, 
she was President at Junk Food Clothing 
for five years. Jennifer has a great 
footwear and clothing background,  
with excellent commercial leadership, 
merchandising and deep digital 
experience. She is a strong people leader, 
with the ability to lead and nurture the 
Dr. Martens culture across the region.

Jennifer has an MBA (Hons) degree in 
Entrepreneurship and Marketing from 
Columbia Business School and a BA (Hons) 
in International Studies and Economics. 

ADAM MEEK 
Chief Product Officer

Joined: December 2021

MEG JOHNSON
Chief Marketing Officer

Joined: April 2022 

MIKE STOPFORTH
President, EMEA

Promoted to the GLT: May 2023

Favourite pair of Docs:

Favourite pair of Docs:

Favourite pair of Docs:

CHURCH VINTAGE  
SMOOTH LEATHER  
MONKEY BOOTS

Prior to joining Dr. Martens Adam spent 
seven years in North America, initially 
with Sperry as Senior Vice President of 
Footwear in Boston before moving to 
Toronto, where he was General Manager 
of Footwear and Accessories for Canada 
Goose for two years. With nearly 20 
years’ experience in product and brand 
management, which included senior 
roles at Lacoste and Nike, Adam brings 
a wealth of experience in leading teams 
through a consumer obsessed lens. 

Adam has a BSc degree in Sports & 
Exercise Science from the University  
of Gloucestershire.

2976 BLACK  
CHELSEA BOOT

1460 MADE  
IN ENGLAND

Meg joined the business in April 2022. 
Meg started her marketing career at 
P&G, renowned as one of the best 
schools of marketing in the Consumer 
Goods industry. After a decade there, 
across two continents, she joined New 
Balance, where she led the International 
and then North American Marketing 
organisations. More recently she spent 
two years in Singapore, consulting in 
brand strategy and marketing across a 
range of industries. 

Meg brings essential Global and 
Regional experience to the GLT, 
alongside her deep marketing expertise.

Meg has a BA (Hons) degree in 
Economics from the University of Leeds.

Mike has recently joined the Global 
Leadership Team, following his 
promotion to EMEA President in May, 
having previously held the role of Sales 
Director EMEA & General Manager UK. 
Mike’s promotion follows a strong track 
record of delivery and execution of the 
DOCS strategy within EMEA. With over 
20 years’ experience in the footwear 
industry, Mike has an extensive 
knowledge of the marketplace, gained 
through management roles in a number 
of brands including Timberland, 
Boxfresh and Ellesse.

Mike has a BA (Hons) degree in 
Marketing & Management from the 
University of Lincoln.

Sue Gannon and Lorenzo Moretti left the Global Leadership Team in September 2022 and May 2023 respectively.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

123

GOVERNANCECorporate Governance at Dr. Martens

APPLYING 

THE CODE

For FY23 we again assessed ourselves against the 2018 Code, 
which was the most recent iteration published by the Financial 
Reporting Council (FRC) as at the date of publication of this 
Annual Report and therefore remained the relevant standard 
against which we assessed ourselves in FY23. 

The following pages provide insight into 
how we applied the Principles of the UK 
Corporate Governance Code (the ‘Code’) 
during FY23, with cross-referencing 
included where applicable to indicate 
where further information may be found 
in other areas of the Annual Report, and 
constitutes the statement required under 
Listing Rule 9.8.6(5)R. 

Corporate Governance Code: 
statement of compliance
For the purposes of the requirement set 
out in Listing Rule 9.8.6(6)R, the Board 
confirms that the Company applied the 
Principles and complied with the 
Provisions of the Code throughout FY23. 

Further information that we believe is of 
relevance and interest to investors and 
other readers of this report in relation  
to our compliance with specific Code 
Provisions is set out in the section below. 

Provisions of the Code – areas of 
further explanation
Code Provision 9 requires that the Chair 
of a company should be independent on 
appointment when assessed against the 
criteria set out in the Code (Provision 10). 

The Board confirms that, in accordance 
with Provision 9, Paul Mason was 
independent on his appointment to the 
Board. Paul has held various roles within 
the Group (including acting as Executive 
Chairman for a period) and, as a result, the 
Board does not consider him to meet the 
specific independence criteria set out in 
Provision 10. Nevertheless, the Board is 
confident in Paul’s continued chairmanship 
on the basis that his leadership, extensive 
knowledge of the Group’s business and 
significant retail and consumer brand 
experience are in the best interests of the 
Company and shareholders as a whole.

124

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 SECTION 1: BOARD LEADERSHIP  
 AND COMPANY PURPOSE 

A   
A successful company is led by an 
effective and entrepreneurial board, 
whose role is to promote the long-
term sustainable success of the 
company, generating value for 
shareholders and contributing  
to wider society.

The Board’s primary responsibility  
is leading the Company to drive 
sustainable, profitable growth globally 
and deliver long-term value for all our 
stakeholders. It sets a clear tone from 
the top by providing entrepreneurial 
leadership of the business and 
promoting custodianship over our 
brand. The Board holds itself 
accountable for demonstrating these 
attributes and expects all our people  
at Dr. Martens to exhibit a long-term 
custodian mindset.

The Governance report details the 
structure, processes and controls that 
enable the Board to lead the Company 
effectively and promote its long-term 
success. During the year, the Company 
(led by the Board) continued to focus 
on delivering the DOCS strategy, with 
an emphasis on DTC first, achieving 
over £1bn in revenue for the first time. 
We also increased shareholder returns, 
in line with our progressive dividend 
policy, and have augmented the Board’s 
effectiveness through the recruitment 
of a new Independent Non-Executive 
Director, Andrew Harrison. The Board 
has also been clear on the importance 
of facing into the issues encountered 
during the year, for example the 
problems at our distribution centre  
in Los Angeles, learning from them  
and improving processes and ways  
of working as necessary.

The ways in which we contribute to 
wider society are articulated through 
our long-term commitments under our 
‘Planet, Product, People’ sustainability 
strategy, which is detailed in depth 
within our Sustainability report, which 
also contains our disclosures relating  
to TCFD compliance, from page 99.

Location of relevant information:

   FY23 highlights P2

   Sustainability report P62

   How we generate value P20

B   
The board should establish the 
company’s purpose, values and strategy, 
and satisfy itself that these and its 
culture are aligned. All directors must 
act with integrity, lead by example and 
promote the desired culture.

The Board confirms that it has established 
the Company’s purpose, values and 
strategy, which are set out in the Strategic 
report, and that these form an intrinsic part 
of the Dr. Martens culture. Each of these 
elements was discussed by the Board 
during the year, most notably during its 
strategy off-site meetings in June 2022. 
The Board discussed the definition of the 
Company’s values and culture and how the 
way in which these were articulated to our 
employees and embedded across the global 
business could be reset in a way that was 
meaningful in a post-Covid-19 context. 

The Board is confident that the Dr. Martens 
culture is well-established across the global 
business, that it strongly connects with and 
is ‘lived’ by our people and continues to 
support the ongoing and successful delivery 
of our strategy. The Board monitors the 
alignment of our purpose, values and 
strategy with our culture in a number of 
ways, including our annual employee 
Engagement and Inclusion Survey, regular 
updates at Board meetings from senior 
leadership on particular focus areas and 
initiatives and feedback from the Employee 
Listening Groups facilitated by our Employee 
Representative Non-Executive Director, 
Robyn Perriss, held throughout the year. 

The Board believes that Board members 
continue to act with integrity and conduct 
themselves in a manner that aligns with and 
promotes our culture. This view was supported 
by the insights acquired from our FY23 
internal Board Evaluation process, undertaken 
in February and March 2023. These are 
non-negotiable attributes for any new Board 
appointment and were factored into the brief 
set by the Nomination Committee for the 
search for a new Non-Executive Director 
during FY23. More information about this 
can be found in the Nomination Committee 
report, from page 130.

Location of relevant information:

   Strategic report P1

   Stakeholder engagement P22

   Nomination Committee report P130

C   
The board should ensure that the 
necessary resources are in place for  
the company to meet its objectives  
and measure performance against 
them. The board should also establish  
a framework of prudent and effective 
controls, which enable risk to be 
assessed and managed.

The Board confirms that the necessary 
resources are in place to ensure that  
the Company meets its objectives and 
measures performance against them. 
Performance is measured with reference 
to clear financial and non-financial KPIs, 
which are set out on pages 40 to 43.

Our internal controls framework, which 
enables the business and Board (through 
the Audit and Risk Committee) to 
effectively assess and manage our key 
risks, is described from page 54 and in the 
report of the Audit and Risk Committee on 
page 157. Our risk management processes 
remain integrated with our overall 
approach to governance at Dr. Martens, 
as described throughout this Governance 
report, with oversight delegated by the 
Board to the Audit and Risk Committee. 
More information about our principal risks 
and how they are managed can be found 
in the Effective risk management section. 

Location of relevant information:

   Effective risk management P54

   Measuring performance P40

   Audit and Risk Committee report P151

D   
In order for the company to meet its 
responsibilities to shareholders and 
stakeholders, the board should ensure 
effective engagement with, and encourage 
participation from, these parties.

In addition to its accountability to 
shareholders, a core responsibility of the 
Board is to represent the interests of the 
Group’s stakeholders and to consider and, 
where appropriate, factor their needs  
into its discussions and decision-making. 
The ‘Stakeholder engagement’ section of 
the Strategic report clearly identifies our 
key stakeholder groups, describes their 
interests and outlines some of the ways  
in which the Board has sought, and 
continues to seek, to account for its 

relationships with each of them,  
as well as how this helps inform its 
decision-making processes.

Location of relevant information:

  Stakeholder engagement P22

E   
The board should ensure that 
workforce policies and practices are 
consistent with the company’s values 
and support its long-term sustainable 
success. The workforce should be 
able to raise any matters of concern.

The Company’s Speak Up Policy 
governs how our people can safely 
raise any matters of concern, such as 
suspected illegal or unethical business 
practices impacting the business. A 
confidential incident reporting facility  
is available for circumstances where an 
individual wishes to report an issue 
anonymously, which is provided by an 
independent specialist firm. Oversight 
of this process is delegated to the Audit 
and Risk Committee, which receives 
updates on specific issues raised and 
the Company’s response to them.

On joining the business, all employees 
are required to sign up to our internal 
code of conduct, the DOCtrine, which is 
rooted in our ethos of doing the right 
thing and acting with integrity. The 
DOCtrine defines how we do business at 
Dr. Martens and sets out the behaviours 
and standards expected of all employees 
as custodians of the Dr. Martens brand. 
This covers areas such as human rights 
and ethical trade, health and safety, 
anti-bribery, malpractice and harassment.

Employees are also able to discuss any 
issues or challenges they encounter with 
the Employee Representative Non-
Executive Director during the regular 
listening sessions she facilitates. These 
are confidential ‘safe spaces’ where 
employees speak their minds openly and 
honestly. An anonymised, high-level 
summary of the themes of these 
discussions is reported back to the Board, 
with follow up actions agreed as needed.

Location of relevant information:

   Stakeholder engagement P22

   Audit and Risk Committee report P151

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

125

GOVERNANCECorporate Governance at Dr. Martens continued

 SECTION 2: DIVISION OF RESPONSIBILITIES 

F   
The chair leads the board and is 
responsible for its overall effectiveness 
in directing the company. They should 
demonstrate objective judgement 
throughout their tenure and promote  
a culture of openness and debate.  
In addition, the chair facilitates 
constructive board relations and the 
effective contribution of all non-
executive directors, and ensures that 
directors receive accurate, timely and 
clear information.

The Board notes that, when assessed 
against the independence criteria  
set out in Provision 10 of the Code,  
Paul Mason was independent on his 
appointment to the Board in 2015 but 
was not considered independent on the 
Company’s admission to listing in 2021. 
Page 124 sets out the reasons why the 
Board remains confident that Paul’s 
continued chairmanship is in the best 
interests of the Company and its 
stakeholders.

The Chairman is mindful of his role in 
leading the Board, which includes 
ensuring that it discharges its 
responsibilities to the Company and 
other stakeholders effectively, fostering 
constructive relationships between, and 
facilitating effective contributions from, 
all Board members. The Board confirms 
that Paul Mason continues to be effective 
in this role, demonstrates objective 
judgement and promotes a culture of 
open, honest debate in the boardroom. 

The effectiveness of the Board in 
directing the Company is assessed 
annually as part of the Board Evaluation 
process, which in line with the 
requirements of the Code is externally 
facilitated at least every three years. 
The internal Board Evaluation led by 
the Chairman, Company Secretary and 
Senior Independent Director in FY23 
found that the Board was focused on 
the right priorities, led by a trusted 
Chair and that it continued to operate 
effectively overall. Full details of the 
FY23 Board Evaluation can be found  
on pages 134 to 135.

The Chairman is supported in supplying 
the Board with accurate, timely and clear 
information by the Company Secretary, who 
ensures that such information is available 
and that it flows from the business to the 
Board and its Committees to facilitate 
high-quality discussion and debate.

Location of relevant information:

  Board Evaluation P134

  Delegation of responsibilities P120 

The Board has also determined that,  
with the exception of Tara Alhadeff, the 
Non-Executive Directors remain free from 
relationships or circumstances which may 
(or could appear to) affect their 
judgement. More information about Tara’s 
relationship with the Company’s largest 
shareholder, IngreLux S.àr.l (which is 
wholly owned by funds advised by 
Permira Advisers LLP), is provided below 
and in the Directors’ report section of this 
Annual Report. 

G   
The board should include an appropriate 
combination of executive and non-
executive (and, in particular, independent 
non-executive) directors, such that no 
one individual or small group of 
individuals dominates the board’s 
decision-making. There should be a clear 
division of responsibilities between the 
leadership of the board and the executive 
leadership of the company’s business.

Code Provision 11 stipulates that at least 
half the Board (excluding the Chair) should 
be Non-Executive Directors whom the 
Board considers to be independent, while 
Provision 10 requires that those considered 
to be independent are identified as such in 
the Annual Report. Over half of our Board 
(excluding the Chairman) comprised 
Independent Non-Executive Directors 
during FY23. The memberships of both 
the Remuneration and Audit and Risk 
Committees comprise Independent 
Non-Executive Directors only, while the 
Nomination Committee comprises all of 
the Independent Non-Executive Directors, 
the Non-Independent Non-Executive 
Director and the Chairman. 

The Board confirms that it assessed the 
independence of the Non-Executive 
Directors as part of the FY23 Board 
Evaluation process. It has determined that 
all of the Non-Executive Directors 
continued to demonstrate independence  
in both character and judgement during 
FY23. Each of the Non-Executive Directors 
that were considered by the Board to be 
independent during FY23 are identified  
on pages 116 to 117. 

The Board confirms that Tara Alhadeff, 
who has been a valued member of the 
Board since 2015, is not considered to be 
independent for the purposes of the Code 
and is identified as such on page 117.  
Tara was appointed to the Board by 
IngreLux S.àr.l pursuant to its relationship 
agreement with the Company. This 
agreement permits IngreLux S.àr.l to 
appoint one Non-Executive Director to the 
Board for so long as it retains control of 
10% or more of the votes able to be cast 
on all (or substantially all) matters at any 
general meeting held by the Company.  
As such, the Board does not consider Tara 
to meet the specific independence criteria 
set out in Provision 10 of the Code.  

The roles of Chair and Chief Executive are 
separately held, with distinct responsibilities 
that are defined in writing and reviewed by 
the Board at least annually. These, together 
with a description of the roles and 
responsibilities of the Senior Independent 
Director, are available to view at  
www.drmartensplc.com. 

To maximise its effectiveness and ensure 
sufficient time and attention can be 
devoted to its key priorities, the Board 
has delegated authority in certain areas 
to the Audit and Risk, Remuneration and 
Nomination Committees. Clear terms of 
reference are in place for each of these 
Committees, which are reviewed by the 
Board at least annually. More information 
on how the Board delegates authority to 
Committees and the wider business can 
be found on pages 120 and 121.

Location of relevant information:

   Board biographies P114

   Delegation of responsibilities P120

   Agreements with controlling 
shareholder P162 

126

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 
 
The Board also confirms that it considered 
the quantity and nature of the other 
positions held by Andrew Harrison during 
the process of securing his appointment and 
had no concerns in respect of his ability to 
meet his responsibilities to the Board when 
he joined the Company in May. 

During the year, Lynne Weedall disclosed a 
number of changes to her external interests 
to the Board, in accordance with the 
procedure outlined above. Lynne joined the 
Board of Greggs plc as a Non-Executive 
Director in May 2022 and later stepped down 
from her role as a Non-Executive Director  
of Treatt PLC on 17 September 2022. 
Additionally, Lynne’s overall number of 
directorships at other listed companies  
was further reduced by the de-listing of 
Stagecoach PLC in June 2022. The Board  
is satisfied that Lynne’s two remaining 
non-executive roles in addition to her 
position with the Company are highly 
unlikely to impact her full commitment to 
the Dr. Martens Board, be it in terms of time 
or dedication. It is also satisfied that the 
quantity of external interests held by each of 
the other Non-Executive Directors remains 
at an appropriate level and that they do not 
give rise to any conflicts of interest. 

Location of relevant information:

   Board at a glance P112

   Audit and Risk Committee report P151

   Nomination Committee report P130

   Remuneration Committee report P136

I   
The board, supported by the 
company secretary, should ensure 
that it has the policies, processes, 
information, time and resources it 
needs in order to function effectively 
and efficiently.

The Company Secretary provides 
support to the Chairman and the Board 
on all matters relating to corporate 
governance at Dr. Martens and all 
Board members have access to her 
advice as and when it is required.  
The Company Secretary’s duties also 
include ensuring that Board procedures, 
Group governance policies and all 
applicable rules and regulations are  
in place and complied with.

All Group policies are required to 
adhere to the policy governance 
process, which provides the end-to-end 
framework for the authoring, approval, 
communication, training and roll-out  
of policies and stipulates the different 
stages at which they should be 
reviewed from the point at which the 
need for a policy is identified through 
to its final approval. The Board has 
delegated oversight of this process to 
the Audit and Risk Committee, which 
considers the framework within its 
annual update from the Compliance 
function. The Audit and Risk 
Committee retains a standing item on 
its agenda to consider any new or 
renewed policies as and when required.

The matters over which the Board  
retains sole authority are clearly set  
out in its Schedule of Matters Reserved 
for the Board, which can be found at 
www.drmartensplc.com.

Location of relevant information:

   Audit and Risk Committee report P151

   Delegation of responsibilities P120

H   
Non-executive directors should have 
sufficient time to meet their board 
responsibilities. They should provide 
constructive challenge, strategic 
guidance, offer specialist advice and 
hold management to account.

The Board is satisfied that the quantity  
of meetings held during FY23 was 
appropriate. Following feedback provided 
by Board members during the FY22 Board 
Effectiveness Review that further 
consideration should be given as to how 
the Board might maximise the use of its 
time together as a group, the Board took 
the decision to extend the length of its 
timetabled meetings and reduce their 
overall number. This move to fewer, longer 
meetings was implemented from 
December 2022.

Details of Board meetings held in FY23, 
including attendance at each meeting, 
can be found on page 112. The equivalent 
information in relation to the Audit and 
Risk, Remuneration and Nomination 
Committees is also summarised on that 
page, while more detail can be found in 
the respective reports of each Committee. 

Each of the Non-Executive Directors has 
confirmed that they continue to be able to 
meet the Company’s expectations of them 
and to allocate sufficient time to discharge 
their duties as Directors effectively and the 
Board is satisfied that this continues to be 
the case. Directors’ external commitments 
are monitored by the Board on an ongoing 
basis, with the assistance of the Company 
Secretariat function, to ensure that they 
remain able to allocate sufficient time to 
their duties to the Company.

Non-Executive Directors are expected to 
avoid holding an excessive number of 
external appointments; however, the Board 
recognises that these roles can vary 
significantly in terms of their complexity and 
required time commitment, so has agreed to 
assess them on a case-by-case basis. When 
doing so, the Board considers the number of 
board positions that the Director in question 
holds at other public companies alongside 
the likely ‘size’ of their new role. It also takes 
into account externally published guidance 
and proxy voting guidelines to ensure the 
principles of major investors in respect of 
‘overboarding’ are considered. 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

127

GOVERNANCE 
 
Corporate Governance at Dr. Martens continued

 SECTION 3: COMPOSITION, SUCCESSION AND EVALUATION 

J   
Appointments to the board should be 
subject to a formal, rigorous and 
transparent procedure, and an effective 
succession plan should be maintained 
for board and senior management. 
Both appointments and succession 
plans should be based on merit and 
objective criteria and, within this 
context, should promote diversity of 
gender, social and ethnic backgrounds, 
cognitive and personal strengths.

The report of the Nomination 
Committee sets out the Board’s 
processes and procedures in relation  
to new appointments, with specific 
reference to the process undertaken to 
identify and appoint Andrew Harrison, 
and including its approach to Board and 
senior management diversity. The 
Board, through the Nomination 
Committee, is satisfied that Andrew 
Harrison’s appointment process was 
exhaustive and resulted in the right 
appointment for the Board and business.

The Nomination Committee keeps the 
Board’s skills matrix, the tenure of each 
Board member and the succession plans 
relating to the Board and GLT (which 
comprises the first layer of management 
below Board level) under review. Looking 
ahead to FY24, senior succession will be 
a key area of focus for the Nomination 
Committee, particularly in relation to 
managing the succession of the Chief 
Financial Officer, whose intended 
retirement was announced by the 
Company in April 2023.

Location of relevant information:

  Nomination Committee report P130

K   
The board and its committees should 
have a combination of skills, experience 
and knowledge. Consideration should be 
given to the length of service of the 
board as a whole and membership 
regularly refreshed.

Details of the tenure, diversity, range of 
skills, experience and backgrounds of our 
Board members are available in their 
individual biographies on pages 114 to 117 
and summarised in the statistics set out 
on pages 112 and 113. A Board skills matrix 
is kept under review by the Nomination 

Committee and used to guide and inform 
its succession plans and the criteria for 
any prospective future appointments. 

For example, the Board identified that its 
effectiveness would be improved through 
the addition of greater listed company 
and international consumer goods 
experience, which formed the basis of the 
brief for a new Non-Executive Director 
that was overseen by the Nomination 
Committee and ultimately resulted in the 
recommendation to appoint Andrew 
Harrison to the Board. 

With the exception of Andrew Harrison, 
who joined the Board on 1 May 2023  
and will stand for election for the first 
time at the AGM in July, all of our 
Independent Non-Executive Directors 
are now in the third year of the 
recommended maximum nine-year term 
of service set out in the Code. Our 
longest-serving Director is Tara Alhadeff, 
appointed in May 2015, who has served 
less than nine full years on the Board.

Location of relevant information:

   Board at a glance P112

   Board biographies P114

L   
Annual evaluation of the board should 
consider its composition, diversity 
and how effectively members work 
together to achieve objectives. 
Individual evaluation should 
demonstrate whether each director 
continues to contribute effectively.

An overview of the FY23 internal Board 
Evaluation process, as well as some of 
the actions and outcomes resulting from 
the FY22 Board Effectiveness Review 
that were implemented during the year 
under review, can be found within the 
report of the Nomination Committee. 

Details of the contributions of each 
individual Board member in supporting 
the Company’s strategy and long-term, 
sustainable success are set out on 
pages 114 to 117. 

Location of relevant information:

  Board Evaluation P134

  Board biographies P114

128

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 SECTION 4: AUDIT, RISK AND  
 INTERNAL CONTROL 
M   
The board should establish formal 
and transparent policies and 
procedures to ensure the 
independence and effectiveness of 
internal and external audit functions 
and satisfy itself on the integrity of 
financial and narrative statements.

The Board confirms that the integrity of 
the financial and narrative statements 
within the Company’s annual and interim 
accounts was monitored during the year 
through the Audit and Risk Committee 
and that, on the recommendation of that 
Committee, it is satisfied that these are 
at the required level. It has also 
established formal and transparent 
policies and procedures to ensure the 
Internal Audit function and the external 
auditor are able to operate 
independently and effectively. 

Location of relevant information:

   Audit and Risk Committee report P151

N   
The board should present a fair, 
balanced and understandable 
assessment of the company’s 
position and prospects.

The Board’s statement regarding the 
responsibility of the Directors for 
preparing the Annual Report and 
Accounts and the Directors’ assessment 
of the Annual Report and Accounts, 
taken as a whole, as being fair, balanced 
and understandable and providing the 
necessary information for shareholders 
to assess the Company’s position, 
performance, business model and 
strategy, is located in the Directors’ 
report section of this Governance report.

Location of relevant information:

   Directors’ report P159

 SECTION 4: AUDIT, RISK AND  

 INTERNAL CONTROL 

O   
The board should establish 
procedures to manage risk, oversee 
the internal control framework, and 
determine the nature and extent of 
the principal risks the company is 
willing to take in order to achieve its 
long-term strategic objectives.

The Board has overarching responsibility 
for ensuring that the Group’s systems of 
internal control and risk management are 
established and effective. It discharges 
this responsibility through the Audit and 
Risk Committee, which receives close 
support from the Internal Audit function 
through its regular reports and updates 
on internal control matters and the 
Group’s principal risks. This process 
assists the Board, through the Audit and 
Risk Committee, in overseeing the 
Group’s risk management processes, 
including the nature and placement of 
risks within the Group Risk Register and 
monitoring emerging risks, which inform 
its approach to risk appetite. 

The Board confirms that this process 
was in place throughout the year under 
review and up until the date of 
publication of this Annual Report and 
has enabled it to carry out a robust 
assessment of the Group’s emerging and 
principal risks. The assessment of our 
principal and emerging risks, risk appetite 
and the Group’s processes and procedures 
to identify and manage risk can be found 
in the ‘Effective risk management’ 
section of the Strategic report. 

Location of relevant information:

   Audit and Risk Committee report P151

   Effective risk management P54

R   
Directors should exercise independent 
judgement and discretion when 
authorising remuneration outcomes, 
taking account of company and 
individual performance, and wider 
circumstances.

The Remuneration Committee 
comprises only Independent Non-
Executive Directors and therefore 
retains a clear ability to exercise 
independence in judgement and, where 
it deems appropriate, its use of 
discretion when approving remuneration 
outcomes. The Company’s remuneration 
advisers, the Executive Directors, 
Chairman and relevant members of the 
Company’s senior leadership are invited 
to attend meetings of the Remuneration 
Committee to offer their expertise and 
insight as required from time to time by 
the Committee.

During the year, the Remuneration 
Committee exercised its independent 
judgement and discretion when 
approving the scaling back of the award 
of performance shares that had been 
due to be made to the Executive 
Directors under the Company’s LTIP. 
This was considered to be appropriate 
and warranted due to the significant 
pressure on the price of the Company’s 
shares at the time. More information on 
the use of discretion during the year 
can be found within the report of the 
Remuneration Committee.

Location of relevant information:

   Remuneration Committee report P136

 SECTION 5: REMUNERATION 

P   
Remuneration policies and practices 
should be designed to support strategy 
and promote long-term sustainable 
success. Executive remuneration 
should be aligned to company purpose 
and values, and be clearly linked to the 
successful delivery of the company’s 
long-term strategy.

The report of the Remuneration 
Committee describes how it has sought 
to ensure that the Company’s 
remuneration policies and practices 
support our strategy, promote the 
long-term, sustainable success of the 
business and align with our culture.

Location of relevant information:

   Remuneration Committee report P136 

Q   
A formal and transparent procedure 
for developing policy on executive 
remuneration and determining director 
and senior management remuneration 
should be established. No director 
should be involved in deciding their 
own remuneration outcome.

The Board had delegated responsibility 
for developing the Company’s policy  
on executive remuneration to the 
Remuneration Committee and for 
setting the remuneration of the 
Executive Directors in line with that 
policy. The Remuneration Policy was 
approved by shareholders at the AGM 
in 2021 and, in accordance with s439A 
of the Companies Act 2006, will next  
be tabled for shareholder approval no 
later than the AGM in 2024.

The Remuneration Committee is also 
responsible for agreeing the fees for 
the Chair of the Board, Non-Executive 
Directors, GLT and Company Secretary. 
The Board confirms that under no 
circumstances is any Director involved 
in deciding their own remuneration 
outcome. 

Location of relevant information:

   Remuneration Committee report P136

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

129

GOVERNANCENomination Committee report

WE ARE MAKING 
PLEASING PROGRESS 
TOWARDS OUR 
BUSINESS-WIDE 
DIVERSITY 
ASPIRATIONS. 

LYNNE WEEDALL 
CHAIR OF THE NOMINATION COMMITTEE

COMMITTEE MEMBERSHIP

The members of the Committee are the Company’s Non-Executive Directors (the 
majority of whom are independent) and the Chairman of the Board. The Committee will 
continue to monitor its composition to ensure it remains appropriate and reinforces our 
ability to provide independent oversight. In May 2023 we welcomed Andrew Harrison 
to the Nomination Committee and look forward to his valuable contribution. 

The members of the Committee and their attendance at meetings during the year are 
disclosed below. Full biographies of each member can be found on pages 114 to 117.

Committee members

Committee composition

Number of meetings  
attended/max number 
could have attended:

4/4

4/4

 3/42

4/4

2/43

4/4

0/0

Lynne Weedall 
(Committee Chair)1

Paul Mason

Tara Alhadeff

Robyn Perriss1

Ian Rogers1

Ije Nwokorie1

Andrew Harrison4

1.  Independent.
2.   Tara Alhadeff was unable to attend the meeting on 
1 March due to pre-existing business commitments. 
3.   Ian Rogers was unable to attend the meetings on  
1 March and 29 March due to pre-existing business 
commitments.

4.  Appointed 1 May 2023.

As at 31 March 
2023

  Male 
  Female 

50%
50%

As at 31 May 
2023

  Male 
  Female 

57%
43%

Focus areas for FY24
•  Board and key role succession, with a 
focus on managing a smooth transition 
to a new Chief Financial Officer.

•  Reviewing the alignment of the 

diversity of the Board with our overall 
diversity aspirations and the revised 
Listing Rule requirements.

•  Reviewing the Group-wide Diversity, 

Equity and Inclusion strategy.

KEY RESPONSIBILITIES

   Recommend potential Board and 
senior management appointments 
and reappointments to the Board.

   Oversee the inductions of  
new Board members and the 
ongoing training, as appropriate, 
for the Board.

   Review and make recommendations 
to the Board in relation to Board 
and senior management succession 
planning, including ensuring 
plans are in place for an orderly 
succession.

   Oversee the development of a 
diverse succession pipeline and 
the Company’s policy on Board, 
senior management and 
workforce diversity and inclusion.

   Review and monitor the 
effectiveness of the Company’s 
policies, objectives and 
strategies relating to diversity 
and inclusion.

Further detail on the role and remit 
of the Committee can be found  
within its terms of reference, which 
are available on our website,  
www.drmartensplc.com.

130

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

DEAR SHAREHOLDER ,

I am pleased to present the report of 
Dr. Martens’ Nomination Committee for FY23. 

The Committee plays a key role in 
ensuring that the Board and senior 
leadership comprise individuals who live 
up to our values, act as brand custodians, 
embody our culture and deliver our 
strategy. It operates to a clear remit, set 
out in its terms of reference, and under 
authority delegated to it by the Board,  
as set out on page 120 and 121. 

Our report for FY23 sets out the 
Committee’s activities during the year and 
provides insight into our progress towards 
achieving the priorities highlighted in  
our report last year. It also provides an 
overview of the Committee’s deliberations 
in respect of the Board’s composition, 
succession planning and its oversight of 
the detailed search process that resulted 
in the appointment of Andrew Harrison  
as a Non-Executive Director. 

Finally, this report provides updates on 
the internal Board Evaluation we 
undertook during the year and the range 
of matters that we as a Committee will  
be focusing on during the year ahead. 

Succession
The Committee reviewed the Company’s 
succession plans for key roles, including the 
Chief Executive Officer and Chief Financial 
Officer, to ensure that the arrangements in 
place for their succession are clear, robust 
and properly sequenced. As part of this 
process, the Committee instructed that 
preliminary scenario planning and role 
profiling exercises be undertaken to identify 
the skillsets, backgrounds and experience 
that would be desirable in potential 
candidates, as well as an emergency 
succession plan to minimise any disruption 
to the business and uncertainty for our 
people in the event of an unanticipated 
departure. Following the announcement 
of Jon Mortimore’s intention to retire in 
FY24, implementing plans for an orderly 
succession process for the Chief Financial 
Officer will be a key area of focus for the 
Committee over the coming months. 

While all our Non-Executive Directors are 
within their recommended maximum 
nine-year terms of service, we are mindful 
that our two longest serving members, 
Paul Mason and Tara Alhadeff, will reach 
this threshold during the first half of 
FY25. In the meantime, the Committee 
and Board continue to value the breadth 
and depth of experience and insight that 
both Paul and Tara contribute and I 
wholeheartedly support the Board’s 
recommendation that both be re-elected 
for a further year at our AGM in July.

Diversity, Equity and Inclusion
The Committee is mindful of the updated 
recommendations of the FTSE Women 
Leaders Review and the subsequent 
revision of the diversity targets set out  
in the Listing Rules, which took effect  
in April 2022. Listing Rule 9.8.6R(9) 
requires that listed companies state in 
their annual reports whether they have 
met the targets set out in that rule and, 
where they have not met one or more of 
those targets, they should identify them 
and explain their reasons for not doing so. 

I can confirm that we did not meet  
the stipulated 40% target for female 
representation on the Board at year end, 
while the recruitment of Andrew Harrison 
means that we remain short of this target 
as we enter FY24. As at 31 March 2023, 
38% of our Board members were women, 
reducing to 33% as at the date of 
publication of this Annual Report. Despite 
this, the Committee and Board believe 
that Andrew’s appointment was the  
right one for the business and is in the 
interests of our shareholders and wider 
stakeholders. More information on the 
process to appoint him can be found on 
page 133, while the Board’s policy on 
diversity is summarised on page 132. 

In broader diversity terms, the Board 
continues to benefit from the significant 
experience of Ije Nwokorie, whose 
successful career was built on his 
experiences growing up in Nigeria and 
who has again been named in the 2023 
Powerlist as one of the 100 most 
influential people of African or African 
Caribbean heritage in the UK. 

Additionally, I am pleased that our Board 
remains compliant with the target for one 
of the ‘key Board roles’ to be occupied  
by a woman, with myself as Senior 
Independent Director, and that each of 
our principal Board Committees continues 
to be chaired by one of our female Board 
members: myself for the Nomination and 
Remuneration Committees and Robyn 
Perriss for the Audit and Risk Committee. 
Robyn also continues to play an important 
role as our Designated Employee 
Representative Non-Executive Director. 

Finally, both the Board and Committee 
continue to benefit from the advice and 
perspectives of our Company Secretary, 
Emily Reichwald, who plays an active role 
in our Board meetings and whose remit 
expanded during the year to include 
responsibility for the Human Resources 
function in addition to Sustainability, 
Legal and the Company Secretariat.

As part of our longer-term Board 
succession planning we will continue to 
ensure diversity and the recommended 
targets are at the forefront of our minds.

In terms of the diversity of our wider 
leadership, as at the date of publication  
of this Annual Report 66% of our Global 
Leadership Team (GLT) excluding the 
Executive Directors were male and 34% 
female, while the equivalent figures for  
the next layer of senior management  
were 57% (35 employees) and 41% (25 
employees) respectively, with one 
employee identifying as non-binary. Across 
the global business 61% (1,663 employees) 
of our global workforce identified as 
female, 33% (907 employees) male and 
5% (126 employees) non-binary, with 2% 
(45 employees) preferring to self-describe. 

These data and insights into the gender 
and ethnic diversity of our leadership and 
wider business were acquired from our 
FY23 Engagement and Inclusion Survey, 
which included a request for employees to 
confirm their gender identity and ethnic 
background. All responses were voluntary 
and anonymous and the completion rate 
was once again excellent, with responses 
received from 2,999 employees in total, or 
87% of our total workforce. The reporting 
tables setting out the numerical diversity 
data, in the standardised format as 
prescribed by Listing Rule 9.8.6R(10), can 
be found in the ‘At a glance’ section on 
pages 112 and 113.

We are also making pleasing progress 
towards our business-wide diversity 
aspirations, although we recognise that 
there is more work to do. This year we 
exceeded our target of 4% non-binary 
representation across our organisation 
having reached 6%. Our inclusivity 
metrics, which are also measured as part 
of our Engagement and Inclusion Survey, 
are also encouraging and we continue to 
work on maintaining a culture that 
embraces all elements of diversity. Further 
details of diversity across the business can 
be found in the Sustainability report on 
pages 89 and 90. Additionally, our Gender 
Pay Gap report for FY23 can be found at 
www.drmartensplc.com. 

Board Evaluation
The Board Evaluation we undertook this 
year was an internal process led by our 
Chairman and Company Secretary. It 
included a detailed survey comprising 
questions on the topics of the Board 
processes, oversight, culture, strategy and 
the Board’s Principal Committees, which 
was followed by one-to-one meetings 
between each individual Board member 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

131

GOVERNANCENomination Committee report continued

and the Chairman. The process concluded 
with a session between the Non-Executive 
Directors, led by me, which focused on the 
feedback and outputs from the surveys 
and meetings with the Chairman, and a 
final discussion at our Board meeting in 
March. More information on this process, 
including insights and outcomes, can be 
found on pages 134 and 135.

Strengthening the GLT
It is natural for the leadership of 
Dr. Martens to evolve as the business 
grows. The Committee has an important 
role to play in reviewing the succession 
arrangements for the GLT, which 
comprises the senior leaders of each of 
the regional business and core functions 
accountable for delivering our strategy, 
and ensuring that appropriate planning is 
in place to support the strategic direction 
and growth of the business. 

There were a number of adjustments to 
the composition of the GLT during the 
year. Our Chief HR Officer, Sue Gannon, 
left the business during the year, with 
Emily Reichwald subsequently taking on  
an expanded remit including responsibility 
for the HR function. Our previous EMEA 
President, Lorenzo Moretti, left the 
business in May 2023 to pursue the next 
exciting chapter of his career having first 
assisted with onboarding his successor, 
Mike Stopforth. Mike was promoted to the 
GLT from his previous role of UK General 
Manager and Sales Director, EMEA and his 
appointment as EMEA President provides 
continuity to this region. 

Overall, we remain confident that the 
Company has in place a GLT that is high 
quality and well positioned to drive the 
business forward. More information 
about the GLT, including full biographies 
of each member, can be found on pages 
122 and 123. 

AGM and Director reappointment
All Directors will again be offering 
themselves for re-election or, in the case 
of Andrew Harrison, election at the 
forthcoming AGM in July. All the Directors 
being proposed for reappointment 
attended an acceptable number of Board 
and Committee meetings during FY23 
and, as mentioned on page 112, the Board 
is satisfied that they continue to devote 
sufficient time to the Company to enable 
them to discharge their duties in full and 
continue to demonstrate a high degree of 
dedication to their role. 

More information on the length of tenure 
of each of our Directors can be found 
within the statistics detailed on page 112. 

LYNNE WEEDALL 
CHAIR OF THE NOMINATION COMMITTEE 
31 May 2023

 NOMINATION COMMITTEE  
 ACTIVITIES IN FY23 

July 2022 
•  Reviewed the Board’s skills 

matrix

•  Reviewed the specification for 

a new Independent Non-
Executive Director and agreed 
a set of non-negotiable and 
desirable attributes for 
prospective candidates.
•  Reviewed the Company’s 

process for succession in key 
roles, focusing in particular on 
the Chief Executive Officer and 
Chief Financial Officer.

November 2022
•  Reviewed the progress made in 
identifying a new Independent 
Non-Executive position and 
agreed to broaden the search 
criteria to increase the 
candidate pool.

March 2023
•  Reviewed the Committee’s 
effectiveness as part of the 
internal Board Evaluation 
process.

•  Annual review of the 

Committee’s terms of reference. 

•  Agreed to recommend to the 

Board that Andrew Harrison be 
appointed as an Independent 
Non-Executive Director.

•  Commenced plans to identify 
suitable successor candidates 
for the Chief Financial Officer.

132

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

THE BOARD’S POLICY ON DIVERSITY
The Board is committed to ensuring 
that diversity, equity and inclusivity 
remain among its core tenets and 
underpin all future appointments to 
the Board, GLT and the memberships 
of the Audit and Risk, Remuneration 
and Nomination Committees, be it 
diversity of gender, background, 
heritage, sexuality or any of the 
many aspects of identity that make 
individuals unique. Further, it 
continues to support the business 
in fostering a culture that enables 
talent to progress at Dr. Martens 
irrespective of any of these factors. 

All recommendations for future 
Board and senior leadership 
appointments are made on merit 
following rigorous search and 
recruitment processes that focus 
on individuals possessing specific 
skillsets and experience that have 
been identified as essential for the 
business to achieve its strategic 
ambitions. This ensures the 
appropriate balance of skills and 
experience across our senior 
leadership, the Board and the  
Audit and Risk, Remuneration  
and Nomination Committees is 
maintained or improved.

The Board is mindful of the 
recommendations of both the 
Parker and FTSE Women Leaders 
Reviews and the revised targets 
and ‘comply or explain’ reporting 
requirements set out in the Listing 
Rules and it remains the Board’s 
intention to meet or exceed these 
targets on an ongoing basis. 

The Board is pleased to have met the 
prescribed targets relating to its 
ethnic diversity and the appointment 
of a woman to at least one of the 
‘big four’ Board roles of Chair, Chief 
Executive Officer, Chief Financial 
Officer or Senior Independent 
Director. While the Board does not 
currently meet the 40% target for 
female membership, it continues to 
be the intention and aspiration of the 
Board to do so. This will be an 
important focus area for the 
Nomination Committee during FY24.

The Board firmly believes that 
adhering to the principles outlined 
above facilitates broader, richer 
debate and ultimately results in 
better decision-making in the 
interests of the business, the 
Company’s shareholders and wider 
stakeholder groups.

BOARD APPOINTMENT PROCESS
A key outcome of the Board’s first 
evaluation undertaken in FY22 was the 
identification of the need to augment the 
Board’s existing skillset with additional 
expertise and experience.

The following section summarises each 
stage of the process that resulted in the 
Committee recommending the appointment 
of Andrew Harrison to the Board as the 
Company’s first new Independent Non-
Executive Director to join since Dr. Martens 
became a public company in 2021. 

The Committee is satisfied that the 
process described below was appropriately 
thorough and that it establishes a basis on 
which any future searches for new Board 
members may be undertaken as and when 
they are needed. 

  Mar – Jul 2022

  Jul 2022 – Feb 2023

  Jul 2022 – Feb 2023

 BRIEF 

 SEARCH 

 ASSESS 

Stage 1: building the brief
Once the requirement for a new Non-Executive 
Director had been clearly identified, the Board 
instructed the Nomination Committee to 
proceed with establishing a brief setting out the 
attributes, skills and experience that the Board 
required and, from there, to oversee the search 
process. The criteria for the prospective new 
appointment set out in the brief were 
determined in part by the areas in the Board’s 
skills matrix, which the Committee keeps under 
review and can be found on page 112, that 
required strengthening or where there were 
opportunities for a new Non-Executive Director 
to add value. In this case, there was a clear 
indication from the Board that the search 
should focus on individuals with the following 
attributes who could help it to lead the business 
effectively through its next phase of growth:

•  Experience of serving on UK listed company 

boards.

•  Robust PLC committee experience, 

particularly of audit and remuneration 
committees.

•  Prior experience as a Chief Executive Officer.
•  Experience in a senior role at a high-growth, 

international branded goods business.

Stage 2: candidate search 
Once the brief was finalised, the Committee 
engaged executive search firm Russell Reynolds 
to undertake the search for candidates 
matching its key criteria. Prior to commencing 
their search, Russell Reynolds was fully briefed 
on the specification and the Board’s ongoing 
aspirations to improve, where possible and 
practicable, the diversity of its membership. 

It was established early in the process that 
particular consideration would be given to 
female candidates who met the Board’s criteria 
and the Committee requested that Russell 
Reynolds proceed with its search on that basis. 
A diverse shortlist of candidates was then 
identified by Russell Reynolds, with regular 
updates fed back to the Committee via the 
Committee Chair for review and further 
consideration.

The Company confirms that Russell Reynolds 
has no other connection with the individual 
Directors or the Company.

Stage 3: review and assessment 
The Committee reconvened on several 
occasions to discuss progress and review the 
profiles of the candidates who most clearly 
reflected the criteria set out in the initial brief. 
The preferred candidates were contacted to 
discuss their interest in the role and to 
schedule meetings with one or more of the 
Senior Independent Director, Chairman and 
Chief Executive Officer. 

The search and assessment stages were 
exceptionally challenging due to a combination 
of the exacting criteria specified in the brief 
and the high demand and low availability of 
candidates meeting them. Consequently, the 
Committee took the decision to expand its 
search criteria to include candidates with 
experience in additional sectors and who had 
held a broader range of executive director 
positions. Additionally, the extent to which the 
search focused on identifying women who met 
the criteria was relaxed to further broaden the 
candidate pool. 

Overall, the Committee reviewed the profiles 
of over 70 exceptional individuals over the 
course of the search process.

  Nov 2022 – Feb 2023

  MAR 2023

 INTERVIEW 

 OFFER 

  May 2023

 INDUCT 

Stage 4: candidate meetings
Before any recommendation to appoint a 
particular individual could be made to the 
Board, meetings were arranged between 
members of the Committee and a number  
of candidates to discuss the nature of the 
Dr. Martens business, its culture and values,  
as well as their backgrounds and experience.

Given the challenging nature of the search, this 
stage was in part conducted alongside stage 3, 
detailed above, with the Committee continuing 
to review and assess candidate profiles while 
informal meetings were organised with 
several of them to discuss the nature of the 
role and their potential interest in it. 

Stage 5: offering the role
At its meeting in early March 2023, the 
Committee discussed the final shortlist of 
candidates. While the credentials of all were 
exceptional, the Committee was unanimous  
in the view that Andrew Harrison was the 
right candidate for the Board, possessing  
an entrepreneurial background, recent 
experience as both a Chief Executive and 
Senior Independent Director at large, listed 
businesses and a strong track record of 
driving growth at other organisations. The 
role was formally offered to Andrew and 
accepted shortly afterwards, with the 
Company announcing on 24 March that he 
would be joining the Board on 1 May.

Stage 6: tailored induction process
On formally joining the business in May, 
Andrew commenced an induction programme 
to familiarise him with the business and key 
members of the GLT. This process is facilitated 
by the Company Secretary and is ongoing as at 
the date of publication of this Annual Report. 

While tailored to the needs of the individual, 
Director inductions will generally incorporate 
site visits and meetings with members of the 
Global Leadership Team and other key senior 
leaders and external advisers. They will also 
be provided with a range of documentation 
including Company reports, past Board and 
Committee materials and a number of internal 
policies and procedural documents.

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GOVERNANCENomination Committee report continued

BOARD EVALUATION

The following pages provide insight into the Board’s 
evaluation of its effectiveness and performance in FY23 
and the action points identified to take forward into FY24.

While a formal evaluation is only required 
on an annual basis, the Board recognises 
that monitoring, refining and improving its 
effectiveness is a continuous process. It does 
this in a number of ways, such as regularly 
reflecting on how well Board members are 
working together and with the Company’s 
senior leadership, reviewing its balance of 
skills and experience against its skills matrix 
needed to support the business in delivering 
its strategic objectives and whether it feels 
appropriately supported in carrying out its 
duties by the Company’s internal governance 
structures and systems. 

The annual Board Evaluation, regardless of 
whether it is externally facilitated or led 
internally, provides an opportunity for the 
Board to assess the extent to which it was 
successful in discharging its duties over the 
course of the year, implementing any specific 
actions recommended through feedback 
provided during the evaluation and 
identifying areas of focus for the year ahead. 

As such, this section begins with a summary 
of the range of actions that was implemented 
by the Board in response to feedback from the 
FY22 Board Effectiveness Review before 
moving on to a description of the process, 
insights and outputs of the internal evaluation 
undertaken in the final quarter of FY23.

 FY22 BOARD EVALUATION:  
 PROGRESS UPDATE 

The FY22 Board Effectiveness Review 
was an extensive and exhaustive process 
which combined external facilitation by 
independent specialist leadership and 
board consultancy ghSMART with 
internal discussions led by the Chairman 
and Company Secretary. 

At the end of this process, a number  
of recommendations were identified for 
the Board to focus on during FY23. The 
Board is pleased to report that it has made 
significant progress in implementing 
improvements based on these 
recommendations, as set out opposite:

RATIONALE AND OBJECTIVES  
OF THE FY23 BOARD EVALUATION

Further to the extensive process undertaken in FY22 the 
Board agreed that the assessment of its performance 
and effectiveness during FY23 would be managed 
internally. An overview of the process followed during 
the year is set out below. It is the Board’s policy to 
undertake externally facilitated reviews every three 
years, in line with the requirements of the UK Corporate 
Governance Code.

March 2023 
MEETINGS
•  One-to-one meetings were held 
between each Non-Executive 
Director and the Chairman.  
These meetings provided an 
opportunity for each Board 
member to expand on the 
feedback provided in their 
questionnaire and reflect on their 
own contributions to the Board 
over the course of the year.
•  These sessions were attended 
by a member of the Company 
Secretariat team to ensure the 
themes of the conversations 
were captured and taken 
forward. 

•  Following the individual 
meetings between the 
Non-Executive Directors and 
the Chairman, the Senior 
Independent Director facilitated 
a session attended by all of the 
Non-Executive Directors. This 
focused on evaluating the 
effectiveness of the Chairman 
and Executive Directors during 
the year, as well as any further 
outputs or feedback from the 
questionnaires that had not 
been previously considered. 
This session was also attended 
by the Company Secretary.

Overview of process 
and timeline:

January 2023 
DESIGN
The Board discussed the intended 
approach to the FY23 Board 
Evaluation and agreed with the 
Company Secretary’s proposal 
that it be facilitated internally.

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DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

February 2023 
QUESTIONNAIRE
Each Board member completed a 
questionnaire which asked for their 
perspectives on topics such as Board 
processes and management, oversight 
of strategic issues, skills and 
experience, external advisers and the 
operations of the Audit and Risk, 
Remuneration and Nomination 
Committees. Each question provided an 
opportunity to assign a rating, selected 

from a specified range of ‘poor’, 
‘adequate’, ‘good’ and ‘excellent’, which 
corresponded with their assessment of 
the Board’s effectiveness in that area. 
Each question also included space for 
extended feedback to be provided. The 
questionnaires were circulated to the 
Board, completed and submitted to the 
Company Secretary in February. 

 RECOMMENDATION 1: 

 RECOMMENDATION 2: 

 RECOMMENDATION 3: 

The Board’s overall capabilities and 
effectiveness would be further improved 
through the introduction of additional 
expertise and experience. 

The Board would benefit from taking time 
to delve deeper into its priorities and align 
on what it saw as the most important 
focus areas for FY23 and beyond.

The relationships between Board 
members could be further refined and 
strengthened through increased in-person 
contact both in and out of the boardroom. 

 OUTCOME: 

 OUTCOME: 

 OUTCOME: 

It was subsequently agreed to  
undertake a search for a new Independent 
Non-Executive Director to bolster the 
Board’s capabilities. The insights provided 
by the FY22 Board Effectiveness Review 
were invaluable in clarifying the specific 
skills, background, prior experience and 
other attributes to factor into the search 
brief which ultimately led to the 
appointment of Andrew Harrison as a 
Non-Executive Director. 

At its two-day strategy off-site held in June 
2022, the Board took the opportunity to 
refocus and realign on the strategic 
imperatives for FY23 and over the longer 
term, particularly the Brand and Marketing 
strategies and ‘reigniting’ the Dr. Martens 
culture as the world continued to reopen 
post-Covid-19. 

During the year, the Board agreed to 
extend the length of its timetabled Board 
meetings and reduce the overall quantity 
from eight to six, enabling it to spend its 
time more effectively and focus on its key 
priorities. Additionally, market visits to 
the US and Italy strengthened the bonds 
between Board members while deepening 
their knowledge of the global business. 
Each Director also agreed a number of 
personal commitments, which were shared 
with other Board members and reviewed 
during the FY23 Board Evaluation.

March 2023 
FEEDBACK
Based on the information 
provided through the 
questionnaires and the feedback 
from the subsequent meetings, 
the Company Secretary compiled 
a report setting out main findings 
and insights. This was agreed 
with the Chairman and circulated 
to the Board to inform and guide 
a final discussion, with all Board 
members present, at the Board 
meeting in late March.

Strengths:
The feedback received from the Board was 
positive overall and there was a consensus 
that the Board was effective and performing 
well. The Board’s feedback highlighted a 
number of strengths, including the following:

•  The Board continued to be characterised 
as comprising a committed, high-calibre 
group with a shared passion for the brand 
and led by a trusted, supportive Chairman. 

Opportunities to drive 
improvement:
The Board also considered the opportunities 
to further improve its effectiveness into FY24:

•  The disappointing Q3 trading update had 
reinforced the importance of considering 
a broad range of eventualities, including 
downside scenarios, that the business 
would likely encounter as it continued to 
grow at pace.

•  The Executive Directors were perceived 

•  Enhancing the involvement of the wider 

as impactful and high performing in their 
respective roles, while the Non-Executive 
Directors were viewed as a strong and 
talented team with a diverse range of 
skills and experience. 

•  Board meetings were considered to be 
well chaired and the move to longer, 
fewer meetings was agreed to have  
been beneficial. 

•  Board agendas were seen as well 
thought through and papers were 
comprehensive and high quality. 

•  The Board’s conversations during 
meetings were considered to be 
substantive, high quality and focused  
on the right strategic priorities. 

Senior Leadership Team at Board 
meetings would be beneficial, affording 
them more time to offer their unique 
perspectives while enabling the Board to 
leverage their expertise to improve the 
depth of its discussions.

•  With the appointment of Andrew Harrison 
addressing the previously identified need 
to bolster the Board with additional PLC 
experience, it was felt that the Non-
Executive Directors would benefit further 
from opportunities to spend time together 
as a group.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

135

GOVERNANCERemuneration Committee report

OUR EXECUTIVE PAY 
APPROACH AFFIRMS 
OUR COMMITMENT AS 
BRAND CUSTODIANS  
TO PROTECT AND 
ENHANCE THE BRAND 
FOR THE FUTURE. 

LYNNE WEEDALL 
CHAIR OF THE REMUNERATION 
COMMITTEE

COMMITTEE MEMBERSHIP

KEY RESPONSIBILITIES

The Committee currently comprises Lynne Weedall (Chair), Robyn Perriss and Andrew 
Harrison, all of whom are Independent Non-Executive Directors and provide a balance 
of skills and experience. Andrew Harrison joined the Committee on 1 May 2023, and 
so did not attend meetings during the year ended 31 March 2023. Ian Rogers was a 
member throughout FY23, stepping down from the Committee on 1 May 2023. Ian’s 
final meeting attendance was in April 2023. 

The full terms of reference of the Committee are available on the Company’s 
corporate website at www.drmartensplc.com. Full biographies of each member  
can be found on pages 114 to 117.

The attendance of Committee members at meetings during the year is disclosed below. 

Committee members

Committee composition

Number of meetings  
attended/max number 
could have attended:

5/5

5/5

5/5

0/0

Lynne Weedall 
(Committee Chair)

Robyn Perriss

Ian Rogers1

Andrew Harrison2

1.  Stepped down from the Committee on 1 May 2023.
2.  Joined the Committee on 1 May 2023.

Focus areas for FY24
The Committee is planning to undertake 
a number of key activities, and have 
discussions in the course of the coming 
year, on a range of matters including:

•  Implementing the Remuneration 

Policy appropriately for the third year 
of the policy period.

•  Reviewing the Remuneration Policy 
ahead of the 2024 AGM where it will 
be put to a binding vote and if 
approved will be effective from FY25. 
We will consider our approach to 
shareholder engagement on this topic 
depending on the extent of any 
changes that are proposed.

  Male 
33.33%
  Female  66.67%

•  Continuing to evolve our engagement 
with the Employee Listening Groups 
on executive remuneration and 
consideration of employee views 
during the policy review.

•  Continue the global roll out of our 

Your Share, Buy As You Earn (BAYE) 
plan in APAC, following the successful 
and award-winning launch of the plan 
in the UK in September 2022, 
followed by our Europe and US based 
employees in March 2023. 

•  Reviewing performance and 

effectiveness as a Committee, as part 
of the annual Board Evaluation process.

136

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

   Establish and agree with the Board 
the Remuneration Policy for the 
Executive Directors, the Company 
Secretary, the Global Leadership 
Team (together, the ‘Executive 
Group’), the Chair of the Board 
and any other senior employees 
as the Board may determine.

   Determine the individual 
remuneration packages of the 
Executive Group, the Chair of  
the Board and relevant senior 
employees within the terms of 
the agreed Remuneration Policy.

   Monitor the remuneration 
structures and overall levels of 
remuneration of the Executive 
Group and relevant senior 
management and make 
recommendations to the Board 
where appropriate.

   Oversee the remuneration of the 
wider Dr. Martens workforce and 
ensure that our policy for the 
senior team is consistently 
structured and also ensures 
alignment between incentives 
and Company culture and values.

   Oversee the operation of the 
Group’s share plans.

LOOKING AHEAD
Following the operational and market 
challenges faced in FY23, we will continue to 
set appropriately stretching targets for FY24.

Implementation of the Directors’ 
Remuneration Policy in FY24
Salary and fees
The Executive Directors’ salaries were 
increased by 2% with effect from 1 April 
2023, to £735,420 and £472,770 for Kenny 
Wilson and Jon Mortimore respectively. 

The fees for Non-Executive Directors  
were also increased by 2% with effect 
from 1 April 2023. 

In setting salaries for the Executive 
Directors for FY24, the Committee 
considered the salary increases for the 
wider workforce taking into account high 
inflation and the cost of living alongside 
the need to control our cost base. 

Our average pay increase across our 
wider head office workforce for the year 
ending 31 March 2024 is 4% of salary. 

Global Bonus Scheme (GBS) 
The maximum annual bonus payable 
under the GBS is 200% of salary for the 
CEO and 150% of salary for the CFO. The 
performance conditions will continue to be 
based on PBT (excluding exceptional items) 
for 75% of the bonus opportunity, and 
strategic measures for the remaining 25%. 
The three strategic metrics reflect our core 
focus areas of employee engagement, brand 
equity and ESG (sustainability). Stretching 
targets will be set for all elements, the detail 
of and performance against which will be set 
out in full in the Directors’ Remuneration 
report for FY24.

 ANNUAL STATEMENT FROM THE CHAIR  
 OF THE REMUNERATION COMMITTEE 

DEAR SHAREHOLDER ,
On behalf of the Remuneration 
Committee, I am pleased to introduce the 
Directors’ Remuneration report for the 
year ending 31 March 2023. 

This report is divided into three sections: 

•  This Annual Statement, which summarises 

the work of the Committee and our 
approach to Directors’ remuneration. 

•  The Remuneration Policy section,  

which provides a summary of the policy 
approved at the 2021 AGM. The full 
Remuneration Policy can be found on 
pages 113 to 118 of the 2021 Annual 
Report (and is also available here:  
www.drmartensplc.com/investors/
results-centre/).

•  The Annual Report on Remuneration, 

which sets out the remuneration 
outcomes for the financial year ended 
31 March 2023 and the proposed 
implementation of the Remuneration 
Policy for the upcoming year. 

This Annual Statement and the Annual 
Report on Remuneration (but not the 
Remuneration Policy), will be put to 
shareholders for an advisory (non-
binding) vote at the Annual General 
Meeting to be held on 13 July 2023.

LOOKING BACK 
Company performance 
We faced a number of challenges 
throughout the year and, we ended the 
year with PBT of £159.4m, which was 
below our original budget expectations. 
These included a challenging consumer 
backdrop and a bottleneck at our LA 
distribution centre which impacted 
wholesale shipments from December 2022. 
Notwithstanding these factors, we still 
performed resiliently, exceeding £1bn in 
total revenue for the first time, which 
represented full year revenue growth  
of 10%, from £908.3m to £1,000.3m. 

Remuneration payable in respect 
of FY23
Base salaries and fees
As disclosed in the FY22 Annual Report, 
the Executive Directors received a 3% 
increase in salary with effect from  
1 April 2022. In addition, Non-Executive 
Directors’ fee levels were also increased 
by 3%. In both cases, these increases 
were in line with the average increase  
in the UK workforce. 

FY23 annual Global Bonus Scheme 
outcome 
Employees throughout the Company, 
whether in our stores, distribution centres, 
factory or offices, participate in a bonus 
scheme. To foster alignment across the 
business, in FY23, the Executive Directors 
annual bonus (Global Bonus Scheme, or 
GBS) continued to broadly mirror that of 
the wider workforce with all participants 
working towards the same global PBT 
targets that applied across the Group. 
Alongside the GBS, our employee bonus 
plans have the ability to reward exceptional 
performance, ensuring that our employees 
across the world are all aligned towards 
our single global growth ambitions.

For the Executive Directors, the GBS 
comprised a financial metric profit before 
tax with a weighting of 75% and three 
equally weighted strategic metrics with  
a combined weighting of 25%. These 
three strategic metrics were focused  
on increasing employee engagement, 
accelerating our sustainability journey, and 
growing our brand health and equity. These 
reflect our passion and focus on culture, 
sustainability and being brand custodians. 

We set stretching targets requiring very 
significant growth and we did not meet 
them. Our financial PBT result of £159.4m 
was below the minimum threshold set,  
of £235.3m. We saw slower sales than  
we expected in America and there has 
also been an impact from significant 
operational issues at our new Los Angeles 
distribution centre. Our brand and our 
business, however, remain strong and  
we are confident in the DOCS strategy. 

That said, two out of three of our non-
financial targets were met in aggregate  
at a target level, which is reflective of our 
commitment to the DOCS strategy and  
our long-term custodianship mindset. As a 
result the formulaic outcome of the GBS is 
8.63% of maximum. However, considering 
the wider disappointing business financial 
performance, our Executive Directors and 
Global Leadership Team have taken the 
decision to waive their entitlement to a 
bonus in respect of FY23. 

Long Term Incentive Plan (LTIP) awards
As a recently listed Company, no awards 
vested to Executive Directors in FY23 and 
none are due to vest in FY24. 

The Committee is comfortable that actions 
taken on pay during the year across the 
Company were appropriate and balanced the 
interests of all stakeholders and that the 
Remuneration Policy operated as intended. 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

137

GOVERNANCERemuneration Committee report continued

LTIP
To ensure that the LTIP award is aligned to 
the rolling business plan, which is currently 
being finalised for the period covering this 
award and to ensure that there is full 
transparency for all stakeholders at the 
time the targets are set, the Committee 
has delayed the finalisation of the award 
levels and the precise range of EPS 
targets. Once these are determined, the 
Committee will publish this information 
within the RNS announcement when the 
CEO’s award is made, and within next 
year’s Remuneration report. 

As noted below, the Chief Financial 
Officer (CFO) is currently under notice  
of retirement, so will not be eligible to 
receive a grant in FY24.

CFO succession planning
We announced on 14 April that Jon 
Mortimore will be retiring in due course 
and a search for his successor is underway. 
Our priority in FY24 is to ensure a smooth 
handover from Jon to his successor and our 
remuneration arrangements for both Jon and 
our new CFO will facilitate this while ensuring 
that we adhere to our Remuneration Policy 
and do not pay more than is necessary. 
Details of the planned treatment of Jon’s 
outstanding remuneration in FY24 are set 
out later in this report.

TEAM PLAYER
Workforce engagement 
During the year I, alongside Robyn Perriss 
(our Non-Executive Director Designated 
Employee Representative), engaged 
extensively with our wider workforce and 
successfully progressed our approach to 
our Employee Listening initiatives. We will 
continue our approach through FY24 and 
have recently held forums in EMEA and 
the USA. Others are planned during the 
first half of 2024, including within APAC 
and our senior management population. 
The objective of these sessions is for me  
to share our approach to Executive 
remuneration, explain how it aligns with 
Company strategy and invite comments, 
questions and input. Employees invited  
to these forums are selected at random.

Outside core remuneration listening, we 
see all forms of employee engagement and 
listening as an important and fundamental 
part of how we do business, and we expect 
this to continue to evolve, widen and 
deepen over time. In addition to the direct 
engagement of the Committee during  
the employee forums, we will implement  
a multi-layered listening approach.  

The strategy will build on the current 
programmes and processes and will 
include ad hoc surveys, wellbeing, 
organisational health, the monitoring  
of programmes and initiatives, local 
consumer feedback, NED listening groups 
and town hall meetings. By joining up the 
various tools under a single framework,  
we hope to understand our employees’ 
experiences in a meaningful way.

Pay and benefits for the wider 
Dr. Martens team 
Dr. Martens’ culture and remuneration 
philosophy is aligned across the business. 
We offer a comprehensive package of 
base pay and benefits for all employees.

While our average pay increase was 4% 
of salary across our wider head office 
workforce for the year ending 31 March 
2023, we understand that it has been a 
tough year for many, particularly our 
front-line employees. Recognising this,  
we invested an additional £1m in pay for 
our lower earning employees. Those in 
countries most impacted by the cost of 
living spike and, earning lower than certain 
salary thresholds, received Financial 
Support Payments and we also created a 
Hardship Fund available to all employees. 

As brand custodians, we remain committed 
to protecting and enhancing the brand for 
the future and we will continue to do this 
through encouraging share ownership 
across all levels of the business, to foster a 
sense of company ownership and long-term 
investment among employees. We believe 
that all employees should have the ability to 
have a stake in the business and to share 
in our success. In September 2022, we 
launched the second phase of Your Share, 
Buy As Your Earn (BAYE), in which all UK 
based employees are eligible to participate. 
Under this scheme, employees may elect to 
purchase Dr. Martens shares via their gross 
income, which are matched on a 1:1 basis by 
the Company. We were delighted that over 
29% of our UK employees elected to 
participate in this scheme and we were 
recognised by winning three external 
awards for our communications. In March 
2023, we launched Your Share, Buy As 
Your Earn (BAYE) in the EU and US  
which enables employee to purchase 
Dr. Martens shares from their net income 
which are also matched on a 1:1 basis. 
During FY24, we intend to launch Your 
Share (BAYE) across APAC. We hope that 
participation will continue to remain 
strong, continuing our focus on share 
ownership across all grades of employee. 

Diversity, equity and inclusion 
Dr. Martens has a strong female presence 
across all areas of the business, which we 
clearly see reflected in all pay quartiles. 
The Company’s latest Gender Pay Gap 
Statement (for the snapshot period up  
to 5 April 2022) can be found on the 
Dr. Martens corporate website and details 
of our gender balance on the Board and 
GLT can be found on page 131 of the 
Nomination Committee report. 

In FY24, we have a range of initiatives  
to address our DEI aspirations including 
launching our Self-ID campaign to ask all 
of our employees to share more detailed 
DE&I data so that we can continue to 
work towards our DEI targets. 

Further information about our diversity, 
equity and inclusion initiatives across the 
workforce is set out in the Sustainability 
report on pages 89 to 90.

Shareholder engagement 
The Committee consults with its larger 
shareholders on Executive pay matters, 
where considered appropriate. In FY22, 
I spoke with some of our largest 
shareholders extensively. As there are no 
significant changes in the implementation 
of the Remuneration Policy, we have not 
carried out a further formal consultation 
with shareholders in relation to the policy 
or its operation in FY23. However, I am 
always happy to make myself available to 
shareholders to discuss any concerns or 
feedback they may have. We will consider 
our approach to consultation with our 
shareholders in due course, depending  
on the outcome of our Remuneration 
Policy review. 

On behalf of the Committee, thank you for 
reading this report and we look forward  
to receiving your support at the AGM on 
13 July 2023 in relation to the advisory vote 
to approve this report. 

LYNNE WEEDALL  
CHAIR OF THE REMUNERATION 
COMMITTEE 
31 May 2023

1.  Underlying earnings per share is calculated as earnings before exceptional items, preference share interest and prior year tax adjustments.

138

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Remuneration report

AT A GLANCE

PERFORMANCE SNAPSHOT

Global Bonus Scheme performance

Measure

Financial 
performance

PBT

75.0%

£159.4m

Strategic 
objectives

Employee 
engagement

8.33%

3.98

Brand equity

8.33%

ESG

8.33%

4.1 out of 
6 areas 
improved

5 targets 
completed

Formulaic outcome

Final outcome

Weighting 
of the 
bonus

Result 
achieved

Achievement 
(out of a 
maximum 100%)

Payout  

as a % of
total bonus1

)
s
’
0
0
0
£
(

n
o
i
t
a
r
e
n
u
m
e
r

l
a
t
o
T

£1800

£1600

£1400

£1200

£1000

£800

£600

£400

£200

£0

£1,656

£773

£925

£503

FY23

FY22

Kenny Wilson

FY23

FY22

Jon Mortimore

Salary

Benefits

Pension

Global Bonus Scheme

LTIP

0%

0%

0%

0%

53.6%

4.46%

50%

4.17%

8.63

0%1

1.  Executive Directors elected to waive their bonus entitlement for FY23.

TIME HORIZONS FOR REMUNERATION ELEMENTS 

Year 1

Year 2

Year 3

Year 4

Year 5

Fixed pay

Salary, pension 
and benefits

Global Bonus Scheme  
(recovery provisions apply)

LTIP 
(recovery provisions apply)

66.7% cash

33.3% shares

Performance period

Holding period

SCENARIO CHARTS – FY24 IMPLEMENTATION

IMPLEMENTATION FOR FY24

60% £5,568

Base salary

2% increase for all Executive Directors 

Maximum1

Maximum

Target

n
o
s
l
i

W
y
n
n
e
K

14%

18%

30%

26%

33%

28%

42% £2,626

Minimum

100% £788

49% £4,465

Fixed pay

Global Bonus Scheme

LTIP 1. Maximum with share price increase

•  The LTIP award level of 300% is for illustrative purposes only 
and is in line with the normal maximum award level. As stated 
above, the actual award level is yet to be finalised. Also, as 
stated above, the Chief Financial Officer (CFO) is currently under 
notice of retirement, so will not be eligible to receive a grant in 
FY24 and has therefore been removed from the table below as  
it is not reflective of any actual scenario.

•  Minimum: Fixed pay (FY24 salaries, pension at 5% of salary  

and FY23 benefits).

•  On-target: Fixed pay plus 50% of maximum FY24 GBS and  

LTIP payout.

•  Maximum: Fixed pay plus 100% of maximum FY24 GBS and  

LTIP payout. 

•  Maximum with share price increase: The ’maximum with share 

price increase’ scenario includes an additional element to 
represent 50% share price growth on the LTIP award from the 
date of grant to vesting.

Benefits

Pension

Global Bonus  
Scheme (GBS)

LTIP

•  CEO – £735,420.
•  CFO – £472,770.

No change.

5% of salary (in line with the wider workforce).

•  Maximum opportunity:

 — CEO – 200% of salary.
 — CFO – 150% of salary.

•  Subject to PBT (75%) and strategic 

objectives (25%).

•  33% deferred into shares for two years.

•  Award Level and Ranges to be confirmed 
and published when the award is made1. 

•  Two-year holding period applies.

Shareholding 
guidelines

300% of salary (to be held for two years post 
employment).

Chair and Non-
Executive Directors

Fee increase of 2% to all. 

1.   No grant will be made to the current CFO, who is under notice of retirement. 

When his successor is appointed, the PSP grant will be determined in 
accordance with the approved Remuneration Policy for new joiners.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

139

GOVERNANCE 
 
 
Remuneration report continued

Directors’ Remuneration Policy 
This part of the Directors’ Remuneration report sets out a summary of the Remuneration Policy approved by shareholders at  
our 2021 AGM and effective from 29 July 2021. The full Remuneration Policy is available in the 2021 Annual Report, which can  
be accessed at www.drmartensplc.com.

The Remuneration Policy has been designed to encourage long-term, sustainable growth and provide market-competitive overall 
remuneration for the achievement of stretching performance targets aligned to the business strategy. 

The policy has been tested against the six factors listed in Provision 40 of the UK Corporate Governance Code: 

•  Clarity – the policy is as clear as possible and is described in straightforward, concise terms to shareholders and the workforce  

in this report.

•  Simplicity – remuneration structures are as simple as possible and market typical, while at the same time incorporating the 

necessary structural features to ensure a strong alignment to performance, strategy and minimising the risk of rewarding failure. 

•  Risk – the Remuneration Policy has been shaped to discourage inappropriate risk taking through a weighting of incentive pay 

towards long-term incentives, the balance between financial and non-financial measures in the annual bonus known as the Global 
Bonus Scheme (formerly known as the Global Management Incentive Plan), a portion of the GBS being paid in shares, recovery 
provisions (i.e. malus and clawback), and in-employment and post-employment shareholding requirements. To avoid conflicts of 
interest, Committee members are required to disclose any conflicts or potential conflicts ahead of Committee meetings. No 
Executive Director or other member of management is present when their own remuneration is under discussion.

•  Predictability – elements of the policy are subject to caps and dilution limits. Examples of how remuneration varies depending  

on performance is set out in the scenario charts (included in the At a glance section). The Committee may exercise its discretion 
to adjust Directors’ remuneration if a formula-driven incentive payout is inappropriate in the circumstances.

•  Proportionality – there is a sensible balance between fixed pay and variable pay, and incentive pay is weighted to sustainable 
long-term performance. Incentive plans are subject to performance conditions that consider both financial and non-financial 
performance linked to strategy. Outcomes will not reward poor performance.

•  Alignment to culture – the Remuneration Committee will consider Company culture and wider workforce policies when shaping 
and developing Executive remuneration policies to ensure that there is coherence across the business. There will be a strong 
emphasis on the fairness of remuneration outcomes across the workforce.

Pay element and purpose

Operation

Opportunity

Performance metrics,  
weighting and assessment

Base salary

Provide a base level 
of remuneration to 
help us acquire, 
retain and engage 
top talent

Salaries are reviewed annually 
and any changes are normally 
effective from the beginning of 
the financial year.

Having been set based on relevant 
factors, base salaries will normally 
increase in line with increases 
made to the wider workforce.

None

The review will take into account 
several factors including (but not 
limited to):

•  The Director’s role experience 

and skills;

Higher increases may be 
permitted where appropriate, for 
example where there is a change 
to role or there is additional 
responsibility or complexity.

•  The remuneration policies, 

practices and philosophy of  
the Company;

•  Pay conditions in the Group;

•  Business performance;

•  Market data for similar roles 
and comparable companies; 
and

•  The economic environment.

140

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Pay element and purpose

Operation

Opportunity

Performance metrics,  
weighting and assessment

The maximum will be set at the 
cost of providing the benefits 
described.

None

Benefits

To provide a market-
competitive level of 
benefits based on the 
market in which the 
Executive is employed

The Executive Directors receive 
benefits which include, but are 
not limited to, family private 
health cover, life assurance cover 
and car allowance, although can 
include any such benefits that the 
Committee deems appropriate.

The Remuneration Committee 
retains the discretion to be able 
to adopt other benefits including 
(but not limited to) relocation 
expenses, tax equalisation and 
support in meeting specific costs 
incurred by Directors.

Any reasonable business-related 
expenses can be reimbursed, 
including the tax thereon, if 
determined to be a taxable benefit. 

The Remuneration Committee 
reviews benefit eligibility and cost 
periodically.

Pensions

To provide market-
competitive 
retirement benefits 

Contribution to the Group 
Pension Plan or a cash allowance 
in lieu of pension.

Pension contribution in line  
with the rate applicable for the 
majority of the UK workforce 
(currently 5% of salary).

None

Global Bonus Scheme (GBS)

The maximum GBS opportunity 
for the Executive Directors is  
as follows:

•  CEO – 200% of base salary.

•  CFO – 150% of base salary.

To reward annual 
performance against 
financial and 
non-financial KPIs 
and to encourage 
long-term 
sustainable growth 
and alignment with 
shareholders’ 
interests through 
payment in shares

The Remuneration Committee 
will determine the GBS payable 
after the year end, based on 
performance against targets. 

No more than two thirds of the 
annual GBS will be paid out in 
cash after the end of the 
financial year. The remaining 
amount will be used to purchase 
shares which the Executive is 
required to hold for two years.

Malus and clawback provisions 
will apply up to the date of the 
GBS determination and for three 
years thereafter.

GBS payouts are determined 
based on the satisfaction of  
a range of key financial and 
strategic objectives set by the 
Remuneration Committee. 

The majority of the performance 
measures will be based on 
financial performance. 

Performance measures will be 
set each year in line with 
Company strategy.

No more than 10% of the relevant 
portion of the GBS is payable for 
delivering a threshold level of 
performance, and no more than 
50% is payable for delivering a 
target level of performance (where 
the nature of the performance 
metric allows such an approach).

The Remuneration Committee 
has the discretion to adjust the 
formulaic GBS outcome if it 
believes that such outcome is  
not a fair and accurate reflection 
of business performance.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

141

GOVERNANCERemuneration report continued

Pay element and purpose

Operation

Opportunity

Long Term Incentive Plan (LTIP)

Performance metrics,  
weighting and assessment

The normal maximum award 
level will be 300% of salary per 
annum, based on the face value 
of shares at grant. 

Awards vest subject to the 
achievement of at least two 
independently measured 
performance metrics. 

If exceptional circumstances 
arise, including (but not limited 
to) the recruitment of an 
individual, awards may be 
granted up to a maximum  
of 400% of salary.

Threshold performance under 
each metric will result in no more 
than 25% of that portion of the 
award vesting.

The Remuneration Committee 
has the discretion to adjust the 
formulaic outcome of the LTIP if 
the Committee believes that it is 
not a fair and accurate reflection 
of business performance.

Participation will be capped by 
the HMRC limits applying to the 
respective plan.

None 

300% of salary.

None 

To encourage long-
term sustainable 
growth and to provide 
alignment with 
shareholders’ interests

Awards can be granted in the 
form of conditional shares or  
nil cost options.

Awards will vest at the end of a 
performance period of at least 
three years, subject to the 
satisfaction of performance 
conditions and provided that  
the Executive remains employed 
by the Group.

The net of tax number of shares 
that vest will be subject to an 
additional two-year holding 
period, during which the shares 
cannot be sold. 

An additional payment, normally in 
shares, may be made equal to the 
value of dividends which would 
have accrued on vested shares. 

Malus and clawback provisions will 
apply for three years post vesting.

All-employee share plans

To provide alignment 
with Group 
employees and to 
promote share 
ownership 

The Executive Directors may 
participate in any all-employee 
share plan operated by the 
Company.

Shareholding requirement

To provide alignment 
with shareholders’ 
interests

During employment 
Executives are required to build 
up and retain a shareholding 
equivalent to 300% of their  
base salary. 

Until the shareholding 
requirement is met, Executive 
Directors will be required to 
retain 50% of the net of tax 
shares they receive under  
any incentive plan.

Post-employment
Any Executive Director leaving the 
Company will be expected to retain 
the lower of the shares held at 
cessation of employment and 
shares to the value of 300% of 
salary for a period of two years. 

142

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Performance metrics,  
weighting and assessment

None 

Pay element and purpose

Operation

Opportunity

Non-Executive Directors

To provide an 
appropriate fee level 
to attract and retain 
Non-Executive 
Directors and to 
appropriately 
recognise the 
responsibilities and 
time commitment

Non-Executive Directors are paid 
a base fee and additional fees for 
acting as Senior Independent 
Director and as Chair of Board 
Committees (or to reflect other 
additional responsibilities and/or 
additional/unforeseen time 
commitments).

The Chair of the Board receives 
an all-inclusive fee. 

Neither the Chair of the Board 
nor the Non-Executive Directors 
participate in any incentive plans.

The fee for the Chair of the 
Board is set by the Remuneration 
Committee and the Non-
Executive Directors’ fees are  
set by the Board (excluding the 
Non-Executive Directors). 

In general, fee level increases will 
be in line with rises in salaries for 
the rest of the workforce. 

The Company will reimburse any 
reasonable expenses incurred 
(and related tax if applicable).

Service agreements and letters of appointment
The Executive Directors have a service contract requiring nine months’ notice of termination from either party as shown below:

Executive  
Director

Date of  
appointment

Date of  
current contract

Notice from  
the Company

Kenny Wilson

5 January 2021

21 January 2021

9 months

Jon Mortimore

5 January 2021

21 January 2021

9 months

Notice from  
the individual

9 months

9 months

Unexpired period of  
service contract

Rolling

Rolling

The table below details the letters of appointment for each Non-Executive Director.

Non-Executive 
Directors1

Date of 
appointment

Paul Mason

5 January 2021

Lynne Weedall

11 January 2021

Date of current letter 
of appointment

 9 January 2021

 8 January 2021

Ian Rogers

11 January 2021

 25 November 2020

Robyn Perriss

11 January 2021

Ije Nwokorie

11 January 2021

Tara Alhadeff

5 January 2021

Andrew Harrison 1 May 2023

1.  All Non-Executive Directors are in their initial term.

 8 January 2021

 8 January 2021

 9 January 2021

27 March 2023

Notice from 
the Company

Notice from 
the individual

6 months

3 months

3 months

3 months

3 months

N/A

3 months

6 months

3 months

3 months

3 months

3 months

3 months

3 months

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

143

GOVERNANCERemuneration report continued

 ANNUAL REPORT ON REMUNERATION 

This report has been prepared in accordance with the Companies Act 2006, Schedule 8 of the Large and Medium-sized Companies 
and Groups (Accounts and Reports) Regulations 2008 (as amended by the 2018 and 2019 regulations) and the UKLA’s Listing Rules.

Remuneration Committee
Role and responsibilities
The role of the Remuneration Committee is to determine and establish a Remuneration Policy for the Executive Group and to 
oversee the remuneration packages for those individuals. When determining remuneration arrangements, the Committee must 
review workforce remuneration and related policies and the alignment of incentives and rewards with culture and take these into 
account when determining remuneration of the Executive Group. Further details on the roles and responsibilities of the Committee 
are disclosed in the terms of reference which can be found on the Company’s corporate website. 

Remuneration Committee membership and meetings 
During the year the Remuneration Committee comprised Lynne Weedall (Chair), Robyn Perriss and Ian Rogers, all of whom are 
Independent Non-Executive Directors. 

The Committee met a total of five times during the year ended 31 March 2023. The number of meetings attended out of the possible maximum 
for each of the members of the Committee is set out on page 136 and included in the Annual Report on Remuneration by reference.

Key activities during the year
Key actions and areas of review by the Committee during the year included: 

•  Oversight of Remuneration Policy and its implementation;

•  Ensuring the right remuneration governance policies and processes are in place;

•  The roll-out of the second phase of our all-employee share plan across the global business, inviting all UK, European and US based 

employees to participate in the Partnership and Matching Shares scheme;

•  Engagement with the wider workforce on Executive remuneration via Board employee listening programmes;

•  Review of the Global Bonus Scheme outcome for the Executive Directors and the wider workforce; 

•  Review of the operation of incentives across the business, including ensuring that the populations for each incentive vehicle are 
appropriate, that performance measures align with our strategy and that targets are stretching and incentivising against the 
wider global economic challenges that we face;

•  Considering issues relating to wider workforce pay positioning across our regions; and

•  Approving remuneration packages for new senior hires below the main Board.

External advisers
The Remuneration Committee receives independent advice from Korn Ferry, who were appointed in June 2020 by the pre-IPO 
Remuneration Committee, following a tender process. The total fees paid to Korn Ferry in FY23 were £131,540 and were charged on 
a time and materials basis. The Committee is satisfied that the advice provided by Korn Ferry is objective and independent as Korn 
Ferry is a signatory to the Remuneration Consultant Group’s Code of Conduct which sets out guidelines to ensure that any advice is 
independent and free of undue influence (which can be found at www.remunerationconsultantsgroup.com). None of the individual 
Directors have a personal connection with Korn Ferry. The Committee is satisfied that the advice it receives is objective and 
independent and confirms that Korn Ferry does not have any connection with the Company that may impair their independence.  
The Committee’s advisers attend Committee meetings as required and provide advice on remuneration for executives, analysis of 
the remuneration policy and regular market and best practice updates. The advisers report directly to the Committee Chair. During 
the year, Korn Ferry did not provide any other services to the Group.

Statement of voting at the Annual General Meeting
At the 2022 AGM Dr. Martens’ shareholders were asked to approve the 2022 Annual Report on Remuneration. The Directors’ 
Remuneration Policy was approved by shareholders at the 2021 AGM. The votes received are set out below:

2022 AGM (14 July 2022)

Nature of vote

Votes for

%

Votes against

%

Votes total

Votes withheld

Approve the 2022 
Directors’ Remuneration 
report (excluding the 
Remuneration Policy)

Advisory

807,707,382

99.15

6,923,259

0.85

814,630,641

1,110

2021 AGM (29 July 2021)

Nature of vote

Votes for

%

Votes against

%

Votes total

Votes withheld

Approve the Directors’ 
Remuneration Policy

Binding

810,983,185

99.20

6,512,215

0.80

817,495,400

275

144

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Single total figure of remuneration for the financial year ending 31 March 2023 (audited)
The following table sets out the total remuneration for Executive and Non-Executive Directors for the financial year ended 31 March 2023. 

Salary and 
fees

Benefits1

Pension2

Other3

Total Fixed 
Remuneration

GBS 
(Annual 
bonus)

LTIP

Total Variable 
Remuneration

Total

FY23 FY22 FY23 FY22 FY23 FY22 FY23 FY22 FY23 FY22 FY23 FY22 FY23 FY22 FY23 FY22 FY23 FY22

All figures  
shown in £000

Kenny Wilson

721

700

Jon Mortimore 464

450

Paul Mason

335

326

Lynne Weedall4

Ian Rogers

Robyn Perriss

Ije Nwokorie

Tara Alhadeff5

99

67

94

67

–

96

65

84

65

–

15

15

–

–

–

–

–

–

15

15

36

23

35

23

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

1 

–

773

750

1

–

–

–

–

–

–

– 503

488

–

–

–

–

–

–

335

326

99

67

94

67

–

96

65

84

65

–

0

0

–

–

–

–

–

–

906

437

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

0

0

–

–

–

–

–

–

906

773 1,656

437 503

–

–

–

–

–

–

335

99

67

94

67

–

925

326

97

65

84

65

–

Notes to the table
1.  Benefits total represents the taxable value of benefits paid. Benefits provided to Executive Directors include: family private health cover and car allowance. 
2.  Executive Directors receive a cash in lieu of pension contribution of 5% of salary (in line with the wider workforce). 
3.  This relates to the value of the matching and dividend shares awarded under the terms of the Share Incentive Plan known as Buy As You Earn (BAYE).
4.  In FY22, the fees in respect of Lynne Weedall were erroneously inflated by £700 in error which was repaid in FY23.
5.  Tara Alhadeff, a representative of Permira, receives no fees for her role as Non-Executive Director.

Global Bonus Scheme (audited) 
The maximum Global Bonus Scheme opportunity for FY23 was 200% of salary for the CEO and 150% for the CFO. The performance 
against measures for FY23 is set out below. The bonus was subject to PBT (75% of maximum) and strategic objectives (25% of 
maximum). The strategic element was based on three equally weighted measures: employee engagement, brand equity and ESG 
(sustainability) targets.

Threshold

Target

Stretch

Measure

PBT

Weighting

10% of maximum

50% of maximum 

100% of maximum

75%

£235.3m

£261.4m

£287.5m

Employee engagement1 – 
Grow global employee 
engagement to reflect  
a thriving culture.

8.33% Maintain Global 
Grand Factor 
Mean 
Engagement 
Score at 4.03

Grow Global 
Grand Factor 
Mean 
Engagement 
Score to 4.13

Stretch Global 
Grand Factor 
Mean 
Engagement 
Score to 4.18 

Actual

£159.4m

Global Grand 
Factor Mean 
Engagement 
Score of 3.98 

Achievement 
% of maximum 
available under 
that element

Payout as a 
percentage of 
total bonus

0%

0%

0%

0%

Brand health2 –  
Growing the brand equity 
across 6 key areas 
(Awareness, Familiarity, 
Ever Purchased, L24M 
Purchased, Net 
Consideration and Net 
Future Purchase Intent) 
in our 7 key markets.

Sustainability (ESG)3 –  
Implementation of the 
sustainability strategy 
across business, by 
showing the progress 
under key commitments.

8.33% Improvement in  
2 of the 6 brand 
equity measures

Improvement in 
4 of the 6 brand 
equity measures

Improvement  
in all 6 brand 
equity measures

4.1 out of 6
areas improved

53.6%

4.46%

8.33%

Achieved  
3 out of  

6 targets

Achieved  
5 out of  

6 targets

Achieved  
6 out of  

6 targets

5 targets
completed

50%

4.17%

Notes 
1.   Employee engagement – In March 2023, all employees were invited to participate in our annual employee engagement survey. Engagement is measured with reference 
to a Grand Factor Mean Score which is calculated based on output from a survey system provided by an external provider. Our survey participation rate remains high  
at 87% (2,999 responses out of a possible 3,430). Our overall score for March 2023 was 3.98 and our Threshold target was missed. This has gone down by 0.05 since 
March 2022. While this is disappointing, this is not a statistically meaningful drop, which is defined as anything at or above 0.10 for this population size. 

2.   Brand health – The targets were based on improving the equity of the brand across 6 core indicators of brand health including Awareness, Familiarity, Ever 

Purchased, Purchased in the last 24 months, Net Consideration and Net Future Purchase Intent. Measurement was across our 7 priority markets of the UK, France, 
Germany, Italy, USA, China and Japan using relative improvement versus a specific group of footwear companies with the base period being October 2021 to 
October 2022. 

3.   Sustainability (ESG) – Targets were based on our Planet and Product sustainability strategies. Planet targets included (i) identifying and implementing a business 
wide solution to capture waste and energy from owned and operated sites, (ii) achieving 75% renewable electricity contracts in EMEA and (iii) all Tier 1 suppliers 
continuing to be audited and achieving high CSR standards in externally conducted audits. Product targets included (i) launching a trial of a new sustainable* 
material (e.g. upper) in at least one product, (ii) launching our recommerce trial, and commence next phase of business modelling and (iii) identifying and starting 
the implementation of a solution to trace raw material and components, systematically and transparently. During FY23, 5 out of 6 targets were achieved. Further 
details on our sustainability journey can be found in the Sustainability report on page 62. *We define sustainable materials as those which are 1) Durable, 2) 
Recycled, Renewable and/or Regenerative and 3) Produced Responsibly.

Based on performance during FY23 the formulaic outcome of the GBS for Executive Directors is 8.63% of maximum. However, the 
Executive Directors decided to waive their bonus for FY23 , the equivalent of £124,445 and £60,000 for our CEO and CFO respectively. 
As a result, there was no payout under the GBS.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

145

GOVERNANCERemuneration report continued

Long Term Incentive Plan (LTIP) vesting during the year (audited)
There are no awards under the LTIP due to vest based on performance to 31 March 2023. 

LTIP granted during the year (audited)
On 15 June 2022, LTIP awards were granted to Executive Directors. As explained in the 2022 Annual Report, the Executive Directors’ LTIP 
award was reduced to 250% of salary from the usual policy level of 300% to take into account the share price at the time of grant.

Executive

Kenny Wilson

Jon Mortimore

Basis of the 
award 
(% of salary)

250%

250%

Share price1 

238.4p

238.4p

Number of 
shares granted2

Face value of 
the award at 
grant date
(£)

Threshold 
vesting
(% of Award)

756,082

1,802,500

486,052

1,158,748

25%

25%

Grant date3

Vesting date4

15 June 
2022

15 June 
2025

1.  The share price is based on the mid-market close on the day before the date of grant (14 June 2022).
2.  LTIP grants were granted in the form of conditional share awards.
3.  Performance is measured over three financial years from 1 April 2022 to 31 March 2025. 
4.  An additional two-year holding period applies after the end of the three-year vesting period.

The awards above are subject to the stretching EPS and TSR targets set out in the table below:

Performance measure

EPS (compound annual growth)

Targets

Weighting

Threshold

67%

12% p.a.

Maximum

21% p.a.

Relative TSR vs. FTSE 350 (excluding investment trusts)

33%

Median

Upper Quartile 
or above

Performance 
period

1 April 2022 
– 31 March 
2025

Payments to former Directors (audited)
No payments were made to former Directors of the Company during the year.

Payments to former Directors and for loss of office (audited)
On 14 April 2023, we announced that Jon Mortimore would be retiring as Chief Financial Officer with the agreement of the Board. 
The remuneration arrangements in connection with his retirement will be in line with his Service Contract and the Directors’ 
Remuneration Policy, and will comprise the following elements:

Jon will continue to receive salary, benefits and pension for the duration of his nine-month notice period. Salary will include a 2% 
increase for FY24, as this was approved before the announcement of his retirement.

It is anticipated that Jon will continue to be actively employed in the business until a suitable successor has been found and 
following a full handover. To the extent there is any remaining notice period following the completion of this handover, it is 
anticipated that Jon will be placed on garden leave until the end of his contractual notice (14 January 2024) and will continue to 
support the business as required.

The Committee has determined that Jon should be treated as a ‘good leaver’ for the purpose of the Global Bonus Scheme (GBS)  
and Performance Share Plan (PSP). He may participate in the FY24 GBS, pro rata for the period of active service (excluding any 
period on garden leave) and paid a mix of two thirds cash and one third shares to be held for two years, in line with normal policy. 
Outstanding shares held in respect of the FY22 GBS must be retained until the end of the original two-year holding period.

Jon will not be granted an FY24 PSP award. Outstanding PSP awards will remain capable of vesting on their original vesting dates, 
subject to performance conditions and pro-rated in accordance with the rules of the Plan. The usual two-year post vest holding 
period will apply to any net of tax vested shares under the PSP. Jon will be required to retain shares worth 300% of salary, for two 
years following employment.

Other than as detailed above for Jon, no payments have been made for loss of office to any other Directors, or former Directors, 
during the year.

146

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Director interests and Executive Directors’ shareholding requirements (audited)
During employment, Executive Directors are required to build and maintain a shareholding equivalent to 300% of their base salary. 
The shareholdings of the CEO and CFO exceed this requirement significantly. 

The table below summarises each Director’s current shareholding, including shares subject to a deferral or holding period and 
performance conditions, and whether the shareholding requirement has been met. Post-cessation of employment, Executive 
Directors must retain shares to the value of 300% of salary for a period of two years in accordance with the Remuneration Policy. 

In the period 1 April 2023 to 31 May 2023, the Executive Directors acquired 388 shares each due to their participation in the BAYE 
plan. As a result, Kenny Wilson and Jon Mortimore increased the number of beneficially owned shares by 194 (Partnership Shares) 
to 11,221,753 and 6,377,590 shares respectively. They also increased their shares subject to continued employment by 194 each 
(Matching Shares) to 609 each respectively. 

Director

Beneficially  

Beneficially  

owned shares on
31 March 20221

owned shares on
31 March 20231

Shares subject to
continued
employment2

Kenny Wilson

11,165,275

11,221,559

Jon Mortimore

6,350,043

6,377,396

Paul Mason

7,875,000

7,875,000

Lynne Weedall

Ian Rogers

Robyn Perriss

Ije Nwokorie

Tara Alhadeff

11,054

20,270

89,054

5,405

0

17,054

20,270

89,054

5,405

04

415

415

–

–

–

–

–

–

Unvested shares 
subject to 
performance 
conditions

1,323,649

850,916

Shareholding 
requirement  
(% of salary)

Current 
shareholding
(% of salary)3

300%

300%

2,215%

1,958%

–

–

–

–

–

–

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

Requirement  

met

Yes

Yes

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

Notes 
1.   The total number of interests in shares in the Company of the Director including interests of connected persons. This also includes Partnership Shares and Dividend 

Shares under the BAYE and Bonus Shares under the Global Bonus Scheme which are subject to a two-year holding period.

2. This includes BAYE Matching Shares which are subject to continued employment (a forfeiture period of three years), but are not subject to performance conditions.   
3.   For the purposes of compliance with the share ownership guidelines, only beneficially owned shares are counted. This includes any Partnership Shares and Dividend 
Shares under the BAYE, and Bonus Shares purchased under the Global Bonus Plan. Unvested shares in the LTIP are not counted. This figure is calculated using the 
Base Salary on 31 March 2023, and a share price on 31 March 2023 of 142.3 pence. 

4.   Tara is a Partner at Permira Advisers LLP, and they nominated her for appointment to the Board. IngreLux S.àr.l (which is wholly owned by Permira Advisers LLP) 

hold 369,942,440 shares in Dr. Martens.

In the tables below, we have summarised the outstanding awards for the Executive Directors included in the Directors’ share interest table. 

LTIP awards (awards subject to performance conditions)

Share 
price at 

Grant date

grant Type of award

No of shares 
under the 
award 
01/04/2022

Granted 
during 
the year

Vested 
during 
the year

Exercised 
during 
the year

Lapsed 
during 
the year

No of shares 
under the award 
31/03/2023

End of 
performance 
period

2022 LTIP 15/06/2022 238.4p

2021 LTIP 09/02/2021

513p1

2022 LTIP 15/06/2022 238.4p

2021 LTIP 09/02/2021

513p1

Kenny  
Wilson

Total 

Jon 
Mortimore

Total

Conditional 
shares

Conditional 
shares

Conditional 
shares

Conditional 
shares

– 756,082

567,567

–

567,567 756,082

– 486,052

364,864

–

364,864 486,052

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

756,082 31/03/2025

567,567 31/03/2024

1,323,649

486,052 31/03/2025

364,864 31/03/2024

850,916

1.   As explained in the Prospectus and also in the 2021 Annual Report, the number of shares awarded was calculated using the offer share price of 370p. The closing 

share price on the date of grant was 513p.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

147

GOVERNANCE 
 
Remuneration report continued

Performance graph and table
Dr. Martens’ shares began unconditional trading on the London Stock Exchange’s main market on 3 February 2021. The chart below shows 
the TSR performance of £100 invested in Dr. Martens from 3 February 2021 (using the offer price of 370p per share) to 31 March 2023 
against the FTSE 350 index. The FTSE 350 index is considered an appropriate comparison as Dr. Martens is a constituent of the index.

£160

£140

£120

£100

£80

£60

£40

)
d
e
s
a
b
e
R
(
£
e
u
a
V

l

£20
03/02/2021

31/03/2021

Dr. Martens

FTSE 350

31/03/2022

31/03/2023

CEO single figure total remuneration (£000s)

GBS (as % of maximum opportunity)

Long-term incentive vesting (as % of maximum opportunity)

1.  FY21 was based on period from Admission on 29 January 2021 to 31 March 2021.

FY23

773

0%

–

FY22

1,656 

65%

–

FY211

259

75%

–

Change in Directors’ and employee remuneration
The table below sets out the percentage change in base salary, value of taxable benefits and bonus for all the Directors compared 
with the average percentage change for employees. 

Kenny Wilson

Jon Mortimore

Paul Mason

Lynne Weedall

Ian Rogers

Robyn Perriss2

Ije Nwokorie

Tara Alhadeff

Employees4 

Percentage change in FY22 – FY23 

Percentage change in FY21 – FY221 

Salary

3%

3%

3%

3%

3%

12%

3%

–

7.6%

Taxable  
benefits

(1%)3

0%

Global Bonus 
Scheme

(100%)

(100%)

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

19.4%

(91.3%)

Salary

0%

0%

0%

0%

0%

2.9%

0%

–

7.0%

Taxable  
benefits

Global Bonus 
Scheme

0%

0%

–

–

–

–

–

–

15.7%

71.6% 

–

–

–

–

–

–

34.8%

37.5%

1.   In FY21, the single figure table was based on the period from Admission on 29 January 2021 to 31 March 2021, whereas in FY22 the table was based on the full 

financial year ending 31 March 2022. As a result, the figures for the prior year are annualised based on the change in the actual single figure of remuneration for 
FY22 compared to the annualised single figure of remuneration for FY21 for both Directors and employees.

2.   In January 2022 (FY22), Robyn Perriss was appointed the Non-Executive Director responsible for employee engagement to represent the employees’ voices at the 
Board level. To reflect the increased time that Robyn is spending on her commitment and responsibilities, the Board introduced an additional fee of £10,000 per 
annum for this role on 1 January 2022. 

3.  In November 2022, Kenny Wilson opted to reduce his private healthcare from family cover to partner cover.
4.   Average percentage change for employees is calculated with reference to UK based employees only using the same data used for CEO pay ratio purposes. This 

population has been selected as it aligns to the group for the CEO pay ratio and so enables a more meaningful internal comparison. There are no employees, other 
than Executive Directors, in the listed parent company.

148

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 
 
 
CEO pay ratio
UK regulations require companies with more than 250 UK employees to publish a ratio to show CEO Total pay versus that of its UK 
employees. In line with these regulations, we have provided the ratio calculated using Method A determined by the regulations, 
under which a single total figure of remuneration is derived for each employee and the quartiles analysed. This method is, in the 
Committee’s view, the most comprehensive and accurate reflection of the remuneration picture across our employee population.

Year ended

31 March 2023

31 March 2022

31 March 2021

The pay for the CEO and the employees at the percentiles is set out below: 

£’000s 

Basic salary

Total pay

Method

Lower Quartile

Median

Upper Quartile

A

A

A

CEO

721

773

32:1

77:1

76:1

27:1

60:1

62:1

15:1

31:1

35:1

Lower Quartile

Median

Upper Quartile

21.6

24.1

25.9

28.3

46.8

50.1

The employee pay figures were calculated by reference to and as at the year ended 31 March 2023 using full-time equivalent data for 
relevant employees in service as at 31 March 2023. In FY23, our financial PBT result was below the minimum Threshold set. Two out 
of three of our non-financial metrics were met in aggregate at a Target level. Considering the wider disappointing business financial 
performance, our Executive Directors waived their entitlement to a Bonus for the strategic non-financial metrics. A zero payout 
under the GBS means that the Chief Executive’s package is reduced proportionately more than that of other employees. This is the 
reason why the ratio of his remuneration to the rest of the wider workforce is lower in FY23 compared to FY22. 

The Committee is comfortable that the pay ratio shown above is consistent with our pay, reward and progression policies for the 
Company’s UK employees as a whole. When the LTIP begins to pay out in FY25, variable pay potential will increase for our Executive 
Directors, subject to performance under that scheme. Therefore, it is anticipated that over time the CEO pay ratios will become more 
volatile due to the variable nature of the CEO remuneration structure.

Relative importance of the spend on pay
The table below shows the Company’s expenditure on employee pay compared to distributions to shareholders for the year ended 
31 March 2023, compared to FY22:

Distribution to shareholders

Total employees’ pay

FY23  
£m

58.4

117.5

FY22  
£m

55.0

106.8

%  

Change

6.2

10.0

Implementation of policy in FY24 (unaudited)
The section below sets out the planned implementation of the Remuneration Policy in FY24. 

Executive Director remuneration
Base salary
During the year, the Committee reviewed the salary increases for the wider workforce taking into account high inflation and the  
cost of living alongside the need to control our cost base. As a result of the review, our average pay increase across our wider head 
office workforce for the year ending 31 March 2024 is 4% of salary. In addition, those employees in countries most impacted by the 
cost-of-living spike and earning lower than certain salary thresholds received Financial Support Payments and we also created a 
Hardship Fund available to all employees.  

Executive Director 

Kenny Wilson

Jon Mortimore

Base salaries

FY24

FY23

% Change

£735,420

£721,000

£472,770

£463,500

2%

2%

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

149

GOVERNANCE 
Remuneration report continued

Pension and benefits
Executive Directors will continue to receive a cash in lieu of pension contribution of 5% of salary in line with the rate applying to the 
majority of the UK workforce. Other benefits include family private health cover, life assurance cover, group income protection and 
car allowance.

Global Bonus Scheme
The maximum GBS opportunity will be in line with policy, 200% of salary for the CEO and 150% of salary for the CFO. 

Performance will be based on profit before tax (PBT) weighted 75%, and strategic objectives relating to engagement, brand health 
and ESG (weighted 25% in total or 8.33% per objective). The Committee considers the disclosure of the precise targets to be 
commercially sensitive, but there will be full retrospective disclosure in next year’s Annual Report. The Remuneration Committee 
has the discretion to adjust the formulaic GBS outcome if it believes that such outcome is not a fair and accurate reflection of 
business performance.

One third of the post-tax GBS awarded will be used to purchase shares, which must be held for two years from the date of 
acquisition. Malus and clawback provisions apply as outlined in the Remuneration Policy, from the date of determination of bonus 
out-turn, and for up to three years thereafter. 

Long Term Incentive Plan
Taking into account the ongoing uncertainty in the market conditions, the Committee has not yet finalised the award levels or 
precise range of EPS targets which will apply to awards. Once these are determined, the Committee will publish this information 
within the RNS announcement when the CEO’s award is made (as well as details of any awards made to a new CFO as and when they 
are appointed) and within next year’s Remuneration report. 

When assessing the performance outcome, the Remuneration Committee will have the discretion to alter the formulaic vesting if it 
believes that it is not a fair and accurate reflection of business performance. 

Awards are subject to a two-year post-vesting holding period. Malus and clawback provisions apply for up to three years following vesting. 

Non-Executive Director remuneration
In line with the increases for our Executive Directors, the Chair and Non-Executive Directors’ fees have been increased by 2% for the 
year ending 31 March 2024. The fees are set out in full in the table below. 

Non-Executive Director

Chair of the Board

Non-Executive Director base fee

Senior Independent Director

Audit and Risk Committee Chair’s fee

Remuneration Committee Chair’s fee

Employee Engagement Director

Fees

FY24

FY23

% Change

£341,970

£335,265

£68,078

£66,744

£15,759

£17,755

£17,019

£15,450

£17,407

£16,686

£10,506

£10,300

2%

2%

2%

2%

2%

2%

All-employee share incentives (unaudited)
The Executive Directors will be eligible to participate in any all-employee share plan operated by the Company on a consistent basis 
to other UK-based employees. Both Kenny Wilson and Jon Mortimore have elected to participate in Your Share, Buy As You Earn 
(BAYE), an HMRC Approved SIP, under which they invest from their gross monthly income into Partnership Shares and receive a 1:1 
Matching Share for each Partnership Share purchased.

Approval
This Remuneration report was approved by the Board of Directors on 31 May 2023 and signed on its behalf by the Remuneration 
Committee Chair:

LYNNE WEEDALL  
CHAIR OF THE REMUNERATION COMMITTEE 
31 May 2023

150

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Audit and Risk Committee report

THE COMMITTEE PLAYS  
A VITAL ROLE IN THE 
GROUP’S GOVERNANCE 
FRAMEWORK, PROVIDING 
INDEPENDENT OVERSIGHT 
AND CHALLENGE. 

ROBYN PERRISS 
CHAIR OF THE AUDIT  
AND RISK COMMITTEE

COMMITTEE MEMBERSHIP

KEY RESPONSIBILITIES

The Committee is satisfied that its composition continues to be appropriate. Throughout 
FY23 the Committee comprised three Independent Non-Executive Directors: Lynne 
Weedall, Ije Nwokorie and Robyn Perriss as Committee Chair. Andrew Harrison formally 
joined the Committee on 1 May 2023. The secretary to the Committee is Emily Reichwald. 

The current members of the Committee and their attendance at meetings during the 
year are disclosed below. Full biographies of each member can be found on pages 114 
to 117.

Committee members

Committee composition

Number of meetings  
attended/max number 
could have attended:

6/6

6/6

6/6

0/0

Robyn Perriss 
(Committee Chair)

Ije Nwokorie

Lynne Weedall

Andrew Harrison1

1.  Appointed 1 May 2023.

As at  
31 March 2023

  Male 
33.33%
  Female  66.67%

As at  
31 May 2023

  Male 
  Female 

50%
50%

Focus areas for FY24
•  Review of US inventory controls and 

•  ESG maturity and developing 

reporting requirements.

controls over the recording of shipping 
related costs. 

•  Reviews of key business 
transformation projects.

•  Developing an Audit and  

Assurance Policy.

   Monitoring the integrity of the 
Group’s Annual Reports and 
financial statements and any 
other formal announcements 
relating to the Group’s financial 
performance, and reviewing the 
significant financial reporting 
judgements made in connection 
with their preparation. 

   Monitoring and reviewing the 
adequacy and effectiveness of 
the Company’s internal financial 
controls and internal control and 
risk management systems.

   Overseeing and maintaining an 
appropriate relationship with the 
Company’s external auditor and 
reviewing the independence, 
objectivity and effectiveness of 
the audit process.

   Ensuring that Internal Audit 
arrangements are appropriate 
and effective.

   Ensuring that fraud prevention 
and whistleblowing 
arrangements are embedded to 
minimise the potential for fraud 
and financial impropriety.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

151

GOVERNANCEAudit and Risk Committee report continued

DEAR SHAREHOLDER ,

As Chair of the Audit and Risk Committee 
(the Committee), I am pleased to present 
our report for FY23. 

The Committee performs a vital role  
in the Group’s governance framework, 
providing independent challenge and 
oversight of the accounting, financial 
reporting and internal control processes, 
risk management, the Internal Audit 
function and the relationship with our 
external auditor, PricewaterhouseCoopers 
LLP (PwC). This report outlines how  
the Committee discharged these 
responsibilities during the year, the key 
issues we considered and the matters  
on which we will focus our attention in 
the year ahead. I recommend that it be 
read in conjunction with the financial 
statements and their accompanying 
notes, which can be found from page 172. 

The Committee met on six occasions 
during the year, with discussions covering 
a range of topics at each meeting. We 
undertook our regular reviews of ‘business 
as usual’ items, including our full and half 
year accounts and their corresponding 
announcements, external audit policies, 
effectiveness assessments of the external 
auditor and the Internal Audit function, 
whistleblowing and anti-fraud procedures, 
risk management processes and the Group 
Risk Register. We also received our regular 
updates from the Compliance, Data 
Protection, Tax and Treasury functions, 
reviewed and approved a number of new 
or revised Group policies and approved  
our annual Tax Strategy Statement. 

We completed our annual review of the 
Committee’s effectiveness as part of the 
wider internal Board Evaluation process, 
more information about which can be 
found on pages 134 and 135 respectively. 
We also reviewed, with the assistance of 
management, the FY23 Annual Report for 
the purposes of assessing whether, in the 
view of the Committee, it represented a 
fair, balanced and understandable account 
of the Group’s position and prospects. 
Details can be found on page 154.

We reviewed the requirements of the  
Task Force on Climate-related Financial 
Disclosures (TCFD) and considered the 
impact and risk of climate change under 
various scenarios and our reporting 
against each of the TCFD pillars, set out  
in the Sustainability report on pages 99 
to 107. We are mindful that environmental 
issues touch on a number of areas within 
our remit and, as such, have received 
regular reports from our Sustainability 
team and PwC on developing standards 
and regulation in this important area. 

The Committee also received regular 
updates on the status of the Internal 
Audit plan, the progress, findings and 
outcomes of a number of Internal Audit 
reviews undertaken during the year and 
addressed a number of other key topics. 
These included regular updates on the 
status and progress of various strategic 
projects to upgrade business critical 
systems and IT infrastructure across the 
business and a review of cyber risks and 
our developing information security 
processes. Given our significant growth  
in ecommerce revenue, an ecommerce 
platform assurance review was 
undertaken by our co-source Internal 
Audit partner, Grant Thornton.

With the lifting of Covid-19 related travel 
restrictions, members of the Internal 
Audit and Compliance functions visited 
five supplier factories in APAC to validate 
the Workplace Conditions Assessments 
performed previously by an independent 
third party. The review concluded that the 
factories were well run, with satisfactory 
working conditions and zero tolerance for 
child labour. Internal Audit also travelled 
to the USA to assist with the review of  
the issues impacting our LA distribution 
centre. These issues and our response are 
referenced throughout the Annual Report 
and a list of page references indicating 
where this information can be found is 
provided on page 153, opposite.

During the year the Committee oversaw 
the transition to a new external auditor, 
PwC. I am pleased to report that this 
process was executed seamlessly, with a 
smooth handover from the previous auditor 
Ernst & Young LLP and strong, constructive 
relationships quickly established between 
PwC and the Dr. Martens teams. This 
ultimately contributed to the delivery of an 
effective and high-quality first audit from 
PwC. More information about the audit 
transition and the role of the Committee 
in overseeing the relationship with and 
reviewing the effectiveness of the external 
auditor can be found on pages 156 and 157. 
The Independent Auditor’s Report is 
available from page 165.

Each year the Committee’s programme  
of work covers a range of items that are 
of particular significance to the Group’s 
financial statements or where it is 
necessary to exercise a high degree of 
judgement. Supported by management, 
the Committee reviewed the significant 
accounting issues, judgements and areas 
of estimation uncertainty relating to 
FY23. Details of these can be found on 
page 155, while further information on 
items that were identified as key audit 
matters is located in the Independent 
Auditor’s report from page 165.

152

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

During the year, the Board received 
notification from the FRC’s Corporate 
Reporting Review Team that the 
Company’s FY22 Annual Report and 
Accounts had been selected for review  
in accordance with Part 2 of the FRC’s 
Corporate Reporting Review Operating 
Procedures. I am pleased to confirm that 
the FRC had no specific questions or 
queries to raise following their review. 
The observations and points of feedback 
they provided were gratefully received 
and have been factored into the FY23 
Annual Report where appropriate. The 
FRC’s review focused entirely on the 
Company’s FY22 Annual Report and 
Accounts and did not provide any 
assurance that the FY22 Annual Report 
and Accounts were correct in all material 
respects: the FRC’s role is not to verify 
information but rather to consider 
compliance with reporting requirements.

Looking ahead to FY24, there are a 
number of priority areas on which the 
Committee will be focusing its attention: 

•  enhanced controls and fraud maturity 
following the publication of the final 
BEIS proposals, including the consistent 
implementation of robust IT general 
controls;

•  key business transformation projects, 
including regular progress reports, 
in-flight assurance and being appraised  
of key ‘go/no go’ decisions;

•  the continued maturity of the Group’s 

risk management processes;

•  further to the issues identified in FY23 
at the LA distribution centre, a detailed 
review of inventory controls in the USA 
together with controls over the 
accurate and timely recording of 
shipping related costs;

•  ESG maturity and reporting; and

•  the ongoing development of an Audit 

and Assurance Policy.

I would like to conclude by formally 
welcoming the newest member of the 
Committee, Andrew Harrison, who joined  
the Board subsequent to the year end on  
1 May 2023 and became a member of the 
Committee on that date. I am certain that 
the Committee will benefit significantly from 
his substantial experience and I look forward 
to working with him over the year ahead. 

As ever, I will be happy to answer any 
questions about the work of the 
Committee at our upcoming AGM in July. 

ROBYN PERRISS  
CHAIR OF THE AUDIT  
AND RISK COMMITTEE  
31 May 2023

 
 
 LA DISTRIBUTION CENTRE 

 AUDIT AND RISK COMMITTEE ACTIVITIES DURING FY23 

Location of relevant information in this 
Annual Report
Following the identification of the operational 
issues impacting our LA distribution centre 
during the year, the Board commissioned a 
thorough and independent internal review 
into the causes which was conducted on-site 
by key members of the Supply Chain, 
Legal and Internal Audit teams. 

As an important event for the Group in FY23, 
this Annual Report contains a number of 
references to the nature and impact of the 
issues themselves as well as the internal 
review process, findings and lessons learned. 
Page and section references to this 
information are provided below: 

   Chairman’s Statement and Chair’s 
governance introduction P4 and 110 

   Chief Executive Officer’s statement 
P12 

   Finance review P44 

   Audit and Risk Committee report 
P157 and 158 

 GOVERNANCE 

Role and membership of the Committee 
Details of the composition, role and range 
of responsibilities within the Committee’s 
remit are set out on page 154. More 
details on these can be found within the 
Committee’s terms of reference, which 
are available at www.drmartensplc.com. 

Competence of the Committee
The members of the Committee provide a 
breadth of financial, commercial and sector 
expertise, which was bolstered subsequent to 
the year end with the appointment of Andrew 
Harrison as a member of the Committee, 
thereby enabling the Committee to meet 
its responsibilities and the requirements of 
the UK Corporate Governance Code (the 
‘Code’). The Committee remains satisfied 
that it retains the appropriate level of 
competence relevant to the sector in which 
the Company operates. 

Chair of the Committee 
Robyn Perriss became Chair of the Audit 
and Risk Committee in January 2021.  
As Committee Chair, her responsibilities 
include setting the Committee’s agenda 
and forward planner, maintaining 
relationships between the Company’s 
senior leadership and the external auditor, 
ensuring that any relevant audit issues 
are reported back to the Board effectively 
and in a timely fashion, and reporting to 
shareholders through the Annual Report. 

April 2022

September 2022

•  Reviewed Audit and Risk 
Committee effectiveness.
•  Reviewed the effectiveness  

of the Internal Audit function.

•  Reviewed an Internal Audit 

report and the FY23 Internal 
Audit plan. 

•  Reviewed audit update report 

from Ernst & Young (EY).
•  Reviewed updates on cloud 
computing accounting, 
Treasury, insurance, 
whistleblowing and the FY23 
compliance plan.

•  Approved the Group Data 

Protection Policy.

•  Reviewed half-year audit 
review planning report, 
including an update on the 
audit transition. 

•  Reviewed an update on PwC’s 

Audit Quality Inspection results.
•  Reviewed cyber security update.
•  Reviewed an Internal Audit 

update.

•  Noted the half year compliance 
update, including updates on 
whistleblowing and anti-fraud 
procedures.

•  Noted updates on projects  
to improve business critical 
systems.

May 2022

November 2022

•  Noted FY23 half year accounts 

(including accounting judgements 
and going concern) and Half 
Year Results announcement.
•  Reviewed the report on the half 
year audit review from PwC.
•  Reviewed an Internal Audit 

update.

January 2023

•  Reviewed tax update.
•  Approved the FY23 tax 
strategy statement.
•  Reviewed IT controls.
•  Reviewed the FY23 external 

audit plan.

•  Reviewed an Internal Audit 

update, including risk 
management.

•  Noted updates on data 

protection and cyber security.
•  Reviewed the Committee terms 

of reference.

•  Reviewed Non-Audit Services 

Policy.

•  Approved the Group-wide 
Conflicts of Interest Policy.

Post year-end

•  Reviewed Audit and Risk 

Committee, Internal Audit and 
external auditor effectiveness 
and the FY23 Annual Report.

•  Reviewed FY22 draft Annual 
Report (including accounting 
judgements, going concern and 
viability, and whether the 
report was fair, balanced and 
understandable) and Full Year 
Results announcement.

•  Noted EY’s external audit report.
•  Reviewed external auditor 

effectiveness.

•  Reviewed internal controls.
•  Reviewed Internal Audit and 
TCFD reporting updates.
•  Noted updates on projects to 

improve business critical systems.

July 2022 – AGM

•  Resolutions to appoint 

PricewaterhouseCoopers LLP 
as the new external auditor 
and authority for the Directors 
to determine their 
remuneration formally 
approved by shareholders.

July 2022 –  
Committee meeting

•  Reviewed external audit 

planning report from PwC, 
including an update on the 
audit transition.

•  Reviewed ESG reporting 

developments and the BEIS 
response to the ‘Restoring 
Trust in Audit and Corporate 
Governance’ consultation.
•  Noted updates on projects to 
improve business critical 
systems.

•  Reviewed an Internal Audit 

update.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

153

GOVERNANCEAudit and Risk Committee report continued

Recent and relevant financial 
experience 
The Committee is satisfied that Robyn 
Perriss, a Chartered Accountant, former 
Finance Director of a FTSE 100 company 
and an experienced Audit Committee 
Chair, has recent and relevant financial 
experience and she has been designated 
as the financial expert on the Committee 
for the purposes of the Code. 

   Experience and qualifications of each 
member of the Committee P114 

How the Committee operates 
The Committee held six meetings during 
FY23, all of which were attended by a full 
complement of Committee members. 
Meetings are scheduled to align with key 
dates in the Group’s financial calendar 
and in accordance with a forward planner, 
developed with the Company Secretary. 
This provides clarity in respect of the 
planned structure of future agendas and 
the matters on which the Committee’s 
attention will focus over the course of the 
year. It also assists the Committee in 
ensuring it devotes sufficient time to 
discussing the key topics within its remit 
and discharging its responsibilities in full. 

The external auditor is invited to attend each 
meeting together with the Chairman of the 
Board, the Chief Executive Officer, the Chief 
Financial Officer, Tara Alhadeff, the Company 
Secretary and the Head of Internal Audit 
and Risk. This means that a majority of 
Board members are present at Committee 
meetings, which conclude with private, 
‘in-camera’ sessions with PwC and without 
the Executives present.

Outside its cycle of regular, scheduled 
meetings, the Committee Chair will 
regularly set time aside to seek the views 
of the external auditor and the Head of 
Internal Audit and Risk on specific matters 
of relevance or concern. Additionally, the 
Committee Chair maintains regular 
dialogue with the Chief Financial Officer, 
Company Secretary and other members 
of the Finance and management teams 
between meetings. 

Committee effectiveness
The Committee’s effectiveness was 
reviewed as part of the wider FY23 
internal Board Evaluation process.  
The Committee considered and reflected 
on the assessment of its effectiveness 
subsequent to the year end, at its 
meeting in early May 2023. It concluded 
that, overall, it continued to be effective 
in executing its responsibilities and, with 
the appointment of Andrew Harrison, had 

taken steps to strengthen its combination 
of financial skills and relevant sector 
experience. Additionally, the review had 
indicated that the Committee was focused 
on the right priority areas and continued 
to be guided by a strong, supportive 
Committee Chair who welcomed and 
encouraged substantive discussions and 
debate during meetings. 

   FY23 Board Evaluation process P134

Competition and Markets Authority 
(CMA) Order compliance
The Committee confirms that the 
Company has complied with the provisions 
of the Statutory Audit Services for Large 
Companies Market Investigation 
(Mandatory Use of Competitive Tender 
Processes and Audit Committee 
Responsibilities) Order 2014 throughout 
its financial period ended 31 March 2023 
and up to the date of this report.

Governance updates
The Committee is kept updated on any 
developments within the audit, corporate 
governance, reporting and regulatory 
landscapes that are of relevance to audit 
committees by the external auditor. During 
the year, the Committee also received 
updates on a range of topics including 
developing standards in ESG reporting,  
the FRC’s thematic review of corporate 
reporting and the consultation and 
response to the BEIS white paper on 
‘Restoring Trust in Audit and Corporate 
Governance’.

 FINANCIAL REPORTING 

Full and half year results 
A key element of the Committee’s role  
is to assist the Board in its oversight of 
the quality and integrity of Dr. Martens’ 
reporting and its accounting policies and 
practices. As such, the Committee 
reviewed both this FY23 Annual Report 
and the half year accounts prior to their 
publication in November 2022.

In line with its terms of reference, the 
Committee monitored the Group’s year 
end and half year reporting processes to 
ensure that Dr. Martens provided 
accurate, timely financial results and that 
appropriate accounting standards and 
judgements were implemented effectively. 
In doing so, the Committee received and 
discussed reports from relevant members 
of the leadership team, including reports 
on the Group’s management of risk and 
internal controls, long-term viability, 
going concern and, in relation to the FY23 
Annual Report specifically, the work that 

had been undertaken to ensure the report 
was fair, balanced and understandable.  
It also received and discussed regular 
reports from the external auditor. 

Significant financial reporting issues, 
judgements and estimation uncertainty
The Committee exercises its judgement  
in determining the accounting matters 
that are of particular significance to the 
financial statements. Any such matters 
are subject to discussions between the 
Senior Leadership Team, including the 
Chief Financial Officer and Director of 
Finance Control, and the external auditor 
as part of the audit process. 

Subsequent to the year end, the Committee 
received reports from the leadership team 
in relation to significant accounting issues, 
judgements and key sources of estimation 
uncertainty, significant accounting policies 
and proposed disclosures in the FY23 Annual 
Report. The Committee is satisfied that each 
has been appropriately addressed by the 
business and reviewed by the external 
auditor. As such, the Committee believes 
that the judgements made are reasonable, 
that suitable accounting policies have been 
adopted and appropriate disclosures have 
been made in the accounts. Details of the 
key areas of significant financial accounting 
issues and areas where judgement was 
exercised in relation to the FY23 financial 
statements are set out in the table on page 
155, opposite.

Fair, balanced and understandable 
A key governance requirement is for the 
Board to ensure that the Annual Report and 
financial statements, taken as a whole, are 
fair, balanced and understandable and 
provide the information necessary for 
shareholders to assess the Group’s position, 
performance, business model and strategy. 
To assist in making this determination, 
the Board has requested the advice of  
the Committee.

To assist the Committee in making its 
assessment, drafts of the report were 
issued to it at key points in the production 
process in order to provide its feedback. 
Any disclosures that the Committee 
believed required additional information 
or clarification were highlighted and the 
necessary edits made during the 
subsequent drafting phase. The Committee 
also reviewed narrative reporting in the 
front half of the Annual Report to ensure 
its consistency with the financial reporting 
in the back half, and that the overall layout 
and linkage between each section of the 
report was clear and understandable.

154

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Significant area How this was addressed
Revenue 
recognition

Revenue accounting policies and recognition criteria are assessed in relation to the three key streams: ecommerce, 
retail and wholesale. An element of estimation and judgement is involved in relation to:
•  cut-off and what proportion of relevant ecommerce and wholesale sales have not yet been received by the 

customer at year end date and should not be recognised as revenue;

•  the returns provisions and the accounting requirements in relation to variable consideration under IFRS 15; 
•  determining the groups of transactions to be adjusted to account for the statutory day adjustment used to align 

the Group’s retail calendar, which ended on 2 April, with the year end date of 31 March.

Based on reports and discussions with management and the external auditor, the Committee reviewed and assessed the 
timing of revenue recognition under IFRS 15 and is satisfied that the judgements made were reasonable and appropriate.

Inventory, 
valuation and 
provisions 
and existence 
of inventory 
(US only)

Inventory provisioning requires significant judgement on which inventory lines should be classed as obsolete. 
Inventory age, historical sales patterns and trading forecasts are used when classifying inventory lines to be 
provided against. This is reassessed quarterly in relation to the changing external and internal environment.  
The Committee has considered the value of continuity inventory at year end together with the high margin nature 
of the product. It has also reviewed the key assumptions made and is satisfied that they have been applied in line 
with the Group framework and that the overall inventory provision as a proportion of gross inventory is appropriate.

Defined 
benefit 
pension 
scheme

In response to the operational issues encountered in LA during the year and the significant year end inventory 
balance in the US, the Committee has considered the elevated risk associated with the existence of inventory at  
the LA distribution centre and satellite warehouses. The Committee has understood the controls put in place by 
management, including regular cycle counts and third party confirmations together with the verification procedures 
performed by the external auditor’s US component team, including attendance at cycle counts at the various LA 
locations. Based on the work performed, the Committee is satisfied as to the existence of the US inventory balance.

Airwair International Limited operates a pension arrangement called the Dr. Martens Airwair Group Pension Plan 
which has a defined benefit section within it. This closed to new members in 2002 and to future accrual from 
January 2006. The scheme has been in a surplus for several years. 

The recognition of the pension scheme surplus is an area of accounting judgement which depends on the 
interpretation of the Scheme Rules and the relevant accounting standards including IAS 19 and IFRIC 14. The surplus 
under the scheme is not recognised as an asset benefitting the Group on the Balance Sheet, as the Group believes 
there is uncertainty in relation to the recoverability of any surplus, and is therefore unlikely to derive any economic 
benefits from that surplus. In the Group’s view there is uncertainty over whether the Scheme Rules provide the 
Group with an unconditional right to a refund of the surplus from the scheme due to third-party discretionary 
investment powers which could use up any surplus prior to wind-up. Consistent with previous years, given this 
uncertainty, the Group has restricted the pension scheme surplus to zero; the surplus of £11.1m (31 March 2022: 
£13.3m) has been restricted to £nil (31 March 2022: £nil). The Committee has considered the actuarial valuation 
report and related assumptions, corroborated by the work performed by the external auditor’s actuarial team, and 
believes that the related disclosures are appropriate.

Alternative 
Performance 
Measures

The identification of adjusting items and the presentation of Alternative Performance Measures (APMs) is a 
judgement in terms of which costs or credits are not associated with the underlying trading of the Group or 
otherwise impact the comparability of the Group’s results year on year.

Management have reviewed the Group’s APMs and KPIs and are no longer presenting underlying operating cash 
flow, EBITDA post-exceptional items, adjusted PBT, and adjusted EPS. In previous years these metrics were 
introduced to present existing performance measures exclusive of exceptional costs. The Group recognised nil 
exceptional costs in FY23 and FY22 and, as such, these adjusted measures are no different to the metrics they 
adjusted and these performance measures are no longer relevant. All APMs are appropriately described in the 
Glossary, which can be found from page 227. The Committee reviewed this approach, together with the Glossary 
terms and the balance of the narrative in the front half of this Annual Report between GAAP and non-GAAP 
measures and is satisfied that it is appropriate.

Corporation 
tax

There is judgement involved in determining the Group’s corporation tax provision. The Group recognises liabilities for 
anticipated tax issues based on estimates of whether taxes will be due. Where the final tax outcome of these matters is 
different from the amounts that were initially recorded, such differences will impact the current and deferred tax assets 
and liabilities in the period in which the determination is made. Management judgement is required to determine the 
amount of deferred tax assets that can be recognised, based upon the likely timing and level of future taxable profits 
together with an assessment of the effect of future tax planning strategies. The Committee has reviewed the judgement 
exercised by management in this area and has determined that the taxation charge is appropriate.

Going 
concern  
and viability

Based on papers prepared by management, the Committee performed a detailed review of the Group’s projected cash 
flows, borrowing capacity and the covenants within its borrowing facilities over a three-year period (our viability 
assessment period). The approach was discussed and agreed by the Committee in May 2023 by reviewing the Group’s 
financial position and performance, budgets for FY24 and three-year cash projections, which were stress tested under 
different scenarios having regard to the principal risks faced by the business both pre and post proposed share 
buyback. The Committee reported to the Board that, in its view, the going concern assumption remained appropriate.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

155

GOVERNANCEAudit and Risk Committee report continued

Having completed its assessment, the 
Committee concluded that the disclosures 
throughout the Annual Report and financial 
statements, as well as the processes and 
controls underlying its production, were 
appropriate and that the FY23 Annual 
Report and financial statements were fair, 
balanced and understandable, allowing the 
Committee to provide positive assurance 
to the Board to assist it in making the 
statement required by the Code.

Going concern and long-term viability
The Committee reviewed the Group’s going 
concern and long-term viability disclosures 
in this Annual Report, together with the 
reports prepared by the leadership team  
in support of each statement, and advised 
the Board on their appropriateness. 

As part of its review, the Committee 
considered the Group’s future prospects 
with reference to forward-looking views on 
risk, viability and planning, considering 
among other things a number of scenarios 
modelled by the business to assess the 
strength of the Group’s financing 
arrangements. The going concern and 
long-term viability statements were also 
reviewed by the external auditor and their 
findings reported back to the Committee. 
The Committee also reviewed and 
discussed the conclusions underpinning 
each of the statements that had been 
drawn by the Senior Leadership Team. 

   Going concern and viability P60

 EXTERNAL AUDITOR 

Audit firm:

PricewaterhouseCoopers 
LLP (PwC)

Date 
appointed:

13 July 2022

Lead partner:

Jonathan Sturges

Lead partner 
tenure:

<1 year

Total fees in 
FY23:

£2.07m (of which £123k 
related to non-audit 
services)

External auditor transition
Work on the process of transitioning  
to a new external auditor commenced 
following the Company’s announcement  
of its intention to appoint PwC. This was  
to ensure there was sufficient time for  
as seamless and efficient a handover  
as possible and for PwC to be fully 
established in their role prior to 
commencement of their work on the  
FY23 interim review and full year audit.

PwC shadowed the FY22 audit undertaken 
by Ernst & Young between April and June 
2022. During this time, the PwC team 
observed the year-end process and built 
familiarity with the Dr. Martens business, 
culture and ways of working and began 
establishing working relationships with  
key members of the Dr. Martens team, 
particularly within the Finance function. 

The senior audit partner at PwC attended 
the Audit and Risk Committee meetings held 
in April and May 2022, while members of 
the PwC team attended audit clearance 
meetings held between Ernst & Young 
and the relevant Dr. Martens regional and 
functional teams. This afforded PwC useful 
insight into the structure of the business, as 
well as the key accounting matters identified 
and the audit conclusions reached.

Following the conclusion of the FY22 audit, 
PwC reviewed the working papers and files 
prepared by Ernst & Young to further 
deepen their understanding of the audit 
approaches used and the judgements 
taken. Discussions were then held with 
management to clarify any areas where 
their audit approach was likely to differ to 
allow sufficient time for the business to 
prepare for new or unfamiliar procedures. 
PwC’s plan and approach to technology 
and the specific applications and tools to 
be implemented in support of their audit 
processes were also finalised at this time.

PwC then undertook detailed walkthroughs 
covering key financial statement line items, 
business processes and IT controls, which 
were completed by late September 2022. 
Observations from these walkthroughs 
were shared with management.

The Committee was kept informed of the 
progress of the audit transition through 
updates provided by PwC at its meeting in 
July 2022 and a more detailed overview 
at the meeting held in September 2022.

Overall, the transition process was 
completed successfully and efficiently, 
resulting in an effective, constructively 
challenging and high-quality first-year 
audit from PwC. 

External auditor effectiveness
The Committee’s responsibility for 
overseeing the relationship between  
the Group and the external auditor 
incorporates an additional duty to review 
the external auditor’s independence, 
objectivity and overall effectiveness.

The Committee received a comprehensive 
audit plan from PwC setting out the 
proposed scope and areas of focus for the 

FY23 audit, as well as their assessment of 
the key areas of risk they had identified. 
The audit plan and the areas of risk 
identified by the auditor were reviewed 
and, where appropriate, challenged by  
the Committee to ensure the underlying 
assumptions and estimates were robust. 

After the financial year end, the 
Committee conducted a review of the 
effectiveness of PwC and its work during 
its first audit since its appointment at the 
AGM in 2022. A session led by the 
Committee Chair, attended by members  
of the Company’s global finance leadership 
teams and dedicated to discussing the 
effectiveness of PwC, was held in advance 
of the Committee’s meeting on 23 May.  
To frame these discussions and ensure  
the key topics were covered, a tailored list 
of questions focusing on, among other 
things, the audit transition and FY23  
audit plan, the working relationship with 
and quality of the PwC team, PwC’s 
understanding of the business model  
and industry, management of any issues 
identified, audit process and any particular 
areas of excellence and/or challenge,  
was circulated to attendees in advance. 
Feedback from the session, together  
with relevant specific examples, was 
subsequently discussed by the Committee. 

The Committee also considered the 
quality of communication and reporting  
it received from PwC during the year, with 
a particular focus on areas of significant 
judgement and how they had addressed 
higher risk areas such as the accuracy  
of stock counts and the existence of 
inventory in the US, given the issues 
encountered at the LA distribution centre.

The review acknowledged that PwC had 
approached their first-year audit with 
pragmatism, flexibility and a clear 
emphasis on working with the Company  
to resolve issues, which was reflected in 
their work on areas including IT general 
controls and US inventory and had been 
appreciated by the Dr. Martens team. The 
transition process was felt to have been 
completed smoothly and with minimal 
disruption, with PwC quick to build an 
understanding of the Dr. Martens culture 
and form good working relationships with 
the Dr. Martens teams. There had been a 
healthy degree of challenge from PwC in 
key areas during the audit and in respect 
of management’s assumptions, 
estimations and judgements. The PwC 
team was considered to be highly visible, 
organised and supportive. Looking ahead 
to the FY24 audit, there would be 
opportunities for PwC to further deepen 
their understanding of the business and to 
continue to embed their ways of working.

156

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

The Committee concluded that, overall, 
the external auditor had been effective in 
planning and executing the FY23 audit.

 INTERNAL AUDIT, RISK AND  
 INTERNAL CONTROL 

External auditor independence and 
non-audit services policy 
The Committee oversees the process for 
approving any non-audit work undertaken 
by the external auditor to ensure the 
Company does not impair or compromise 
its objectivity, effectiveness or 
independence and that engagement 
satisfies all relevant ethical standards.

The Company’s policy governing the 
provision of non-audit services by an 
external audit firm reflects the regulations 
that prohibit external auditors from 
undertaking certain non-audit services.  
As Dr. Martens is a public interest entity 
(PIE) by virtue of its transferable securities 
being admitted for trading on a regulated 
market, the external auditor can only 
provide services on the FRC ‘whitelist’ of 
permissible services and cap the level of 
non-audit fees at 70% of the average 
Group audit fee paid by the Company over 
the previous three financial years. The 
Company’s non-audit services policy 
complies with the FRC’s Revised Ethical 
Standard (2019).

In making any determination as to whether 
to appoint the external auditor to provide 
certain non-audit services that are not 
prohibited, the Committee must consider: 

•  whether its skills and experience make 

it a suitable supplier; 

•  whether appropriate safeguards are  
in place to ensure there is no threat  
to its objectivity and independence; 

•  the nature of the service to be 
provided, including fees both 
individually and in aggregate relative  
to the audit fee; 

•  the application of any relevant Revised 
Ethical Standard issued by the FRC.

Audit fees
Fees relating to services performed by  
the external auditor are reported to and 
approved by the Committee. Details of 
fees paid to PwC in relation to the FY23 
audit can be found in the table on page 
156 and in note 5 to the financial 
statements on page 188. 

The fees for non-audit services performed 
by PwC during FY23, which are disclosed 
on page 156 opposite, related to work 
undertaken for the half year review, as 
well as the provision of turnover 
certificates and licences for PwC’s online 
information platform.

Role of the Internal Audit function
The remit of the Group’s Internal Audit 
function includes responsibility for 
reviewing, appraising and reporting on:

•  the adequacy and effectiveness of the 

Group’s systems of operational controls, 
including outsourced services, financial 
controls, and management controls and 
their operation; 

•  the integrity of processes and systems, 
including those under development, to 
help ensure that controls offer adequate 
protection against error, fraud and loss; 

•  the Group’s policies, standards and 
procedures including their use and 
appropriateness; 

•  the operation of the Group’s corporate 

governance and risk management 
arrangements; and 

•  significant aspects of the Group’s 

activity including major projects and  
as directed by the Committee.

Additionally, the Head of Internal Audit 
and Risk continues to chair the 
Company’s Operational Risk Committee, 
which has day-to-day responsibility for 
overseeing the Group Risk Register and 
the development and implementation  
of the Group’s approach to risk. 

The range of internal audits led by the 
Internal Audit function during the year 
were set out in the FY23 Internal Audit 
plan and agreed with the Committee. 
Where additional expertise or resource 
was required in respect of certain reviews 
within this plan, the Internal Audit 
function was closely supported by 
co-source partner, Grant Thornton.

The Committee received updates from  
the Internal Audit function at each of its 
meetings during the year. It reviewed:

•  Regular updates on the status of and 
progress against the FY23 Internal 
Audit plan.

•  Detailed reports on the process, 
findings and learnings of specific 
internal audits.

•  The Group Risk Register and a risk 
management update, including the 
lessons learned from the issues 
impacting the LA distribution centre.

•  The nature, scoping and resourcing of 

planned future audits.

Risk 
The role of the Committee relating 
to internal control and risk 
management is set out in the  
table below:

PLC BOARD

•  Provides oversight of and  
is ultimately accountable  
for risk.

•  Assesses the principal  

and emerging risks facing 
the Group.

•  Monitors the Group’s overall 

risk management and 
internal control systems.

•  Annually reviews the 

effectiveness of the systems 
of risk management and 
internal control.

AUDIT AND RISK 
COMMITTEE

•  Reviews the effectiveness  
of the Group’s internal 
financial controls.

•  Receives reports from 
management on the 
effectiveness of the  
Group’s systems and  
the conclusions of any 
testing undertaken.

•  Reviews and approves 

statements in the Annual 
Report in relation to 
internal control and 
management of risk.

LEADERSHIP

Supported by Internal Audit,  
is responsible for:

•  The identification, 

assessment, management 
and monitoring of risk on  
a day-to-day basis.

•  Developing, operating  

and monitoring systems  
of internal control.

•  Providing assurance to the 
Board, through the Audit 
and Risk Committee, that  
it has done so.

   More information about our 
approach to risk management  
is available on P54 to 59

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

157

GOVERNANCEAudit and Risk Committee report continued

The Internal Audit function was also  
part of the team that carried out an 
independent ‘lessons learnt’ review of the 
US distribution centre challenges. The key 
learnings have been taken into account in 
developing Internal Audit’s plans for FY24. 

Additionally, the Internal Audit function 
worked closely during the year with 
management and the Committee Chair  
on the Internal Audit plan for FY24.  
The approach to shaping this plan was 
unchanged from previous years; specifically, 
it was formulated with reference to 
Dr. Martens’ strategic plans and objectives 
and in consideration of topics of particular 
importance or relevance, the principal  
risks facing the business and the wider 
economic and regulatory climate. 

During FY24, reviews are planned covering 
assurance over key risks and controls, 
programme and project assurance, and 
risk management activities. 

Internal Audit effectiveness
The Committee’s review of the Internal 
Audit function during FY23 concluded 
that it remained effective, possessed a 
good level of experience and knowledge 
and had established strong working 
relationships with senior management 
and the external auditor. It also found 
that, with obstacles to international travel 
having increasingly fallen away post-
Covid-19 and the consequent resumption 
of visits by members of the Internal Audit 
function to key regions during the year, 
significant progress had been made in 
enhancing the profile of the function  
and improving the level of understanding 
of its role with the global business. 

In addition to attending Committee 
meetings, the Head of Internal Audit and 
Risk meets regularly with the Chair of  
the Committee, without the presence of 
management, and also meets with other 
members of the Committee and with the 
external audit partner outside Committee 
meetings, as necessary and appropriate. 
Additionally, all members of the Committee 
are entitled to request a meeting with the 
Head of Internal Audit and Risk to discuss 
risk, control and audit matters.

Overall, the Committee is satisfied that 
the quality, experience and expertise  
of the Internal Audit function remain 
appropriate for the business.

Assessment of the Group’s system of 
internal control and risk management 
framework 
The Group’s risk assessment process and 
the way in which significant business risks 
are managed is a key area of focus for the 
Committee. Activity is driven primarily by 
the Company’s assessment of its principal 
risks and uncertainties, as set out on 
pages 54 to 59.

In relation to the issues impacting the  
LA distribution centre, the internal review 
identified opportunities for improving 
certain operational processes and 
controls. Actions have been taken to 
address the majority of these and we will 
monitor the completion of the remainder 
during FY24. There were no identified 
failures of controls that resulted in a 
misstatement of financial statements. 

The Company has established an internal 
control environment to protect the business 
from the material risks which have been 
identified. Management is responsible for 
establishing and maintaining adequate 
internal controls over financial reporting 
and for ensuring the effectiveness of these 
controls. The Committee receives updates 
on internal control matters through reports 
from the Internal Audit function, ensuring 
that issues are identified in a timely fashion, 
that remedial action is taken in the event 
that control failures or weaknesses are 
identified and that progress can be 
monitored by the Committee. 

The Committee Chair updates the Board 
verbally at each subsequent Board 
meeting on the key issues discussed  
by the Committee or to make any 
recommendations on matters that fall 
within the Committee’s remit. All Board 
members are given access to Committee 
papers, reports and supporting materials. 
A majority of Board members are also 
members of the Committee, while others 
are regularly invited to attend Committee 
meetings to offer their valuable input and 
expertise. As such, all Board members are 
kept up to date on the Committee’s 
discussions relating to risk management 
and systems of internal control, as well  
as on its activities generally. 

The Committee confirms it has reviewed 
the Group’s risk management and internal 
control systems through reports and 
updates presented to it by management 
and identified no significant failings or 
weaknesses that may significantly impact 
the financial statements. The Committee 
has also noted the external auditor’s 
findings in respect of the Group’s internal 
controls, as highlighted in their report from 
page 158, and is satisfied that appropriate 
action is being taken to resolve or mitigate 
any specific matters raised. 

Further to the Committee’s review, the 
Board is satisfied that the Company’s 
systems of internal control and risk 
management continue to be effective,  
in accordance with the requirements of 
the FRC Guidance on Risk Management, 
Internal Control and Related Financial  
and Business Reporting.

Anti-bribery and corruption 
The Board has delegated responsibility 
for reviewing the Group’s systems and 
controls for preventing bribery and 
corruption to the Committee, with 
support provided by the Internal Audit 
and Compliance functions. 

Dr. Martens has in place a clear Anti-Bribery 
and Corruption Policy which forms part of 
its global code of conduct, the ‘DOCtrine’. 
All employees are required to attest to their 
understanding and acceptance of this policy 
at the time they join the business and on 
an annual basis thereafter. The Group’s 
external partners must also acknowledge 
their agreement and understanding. 
Mandatory online training is provided to 
ensure our people understand their 
responsibilities in preventing bribery and 
corruption. The Committee is satisfied that 
these processes remain appropriate.

The Committee maintains oversight of  
the controls the Company has in place  
to mitigate fraud risk. It received a report 
from the Internal Audit function during 
the year, which confirmed that no failings 
or significant weaknesses in the control 
environment had been identified. 

Whistleblowing 
The Committee is responsible for 
ensuring the Company has in place 
effective policies and procedures to 
ensure that issues can be raised, 
investigated and acted upon. These 
procedures are set out in the Company’s 
‘Speak Up’ Policy, which details the 
process by which employees are able to 
safely raise concerns about suspected 
illegal or unethical business practices.  
A confidential incident reporting facility  
is available, provided by an independent 
specialist firm, for the anonymous 
reporting of concerns. 

The Committee receives updates on 
whistleblowing activity, including 
incidents, investigations and outcomes, 
within its regular reports from the 
Compliance function. The Committee 
continues to believe the Company’s 
processes and procedures in this area  
are effective and appropriate.

158

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Directors’ report

The Directors’ report for the year ended 31 March 2023 
comprises pages 109 to 163 and 229 to 230 of this Annual 
Report, including any sections incorporated by reference. The 
Strategic report can be found on pages 1 to 108. In accordance 
with section 414C(11) of the Act, the Board has included certain 
disclosures in the Strategic report set out below:

•  Information relating to future business developments can  

be found throughout the Strategic report.

•  Information relating to the Group’s principal risks and risk 

management can be found on pages 54 to 59.

•  The going concern and long-term viability statements can  

be found on pages 60 and 61.

•  Details of branches operated by the Company are set out  

on pages 7, 33, 43 and 49.

•  The Company’s global greenhouse gas emissions, energy 

consumption and energy efficiency during FY23 can be found 
on page 73 of the Sustainability report, which is located within 
the Strategic report.

•  Details of how the Board and business engage with employees 
and other stakeholder groups can be found on pages 22 to 29.

•  Information relating to research and development can be 

found on pages 20 to 21 and 33 to 39 of the Strategic report 
and 77 to 83 of the Sustainability report.

•  Disclosures based on the principles of Task Force on Climate-
related Financial Disclosures (TCFD) are detailed on pages 99 
to 107 of the Sustainability report.

For information on our approach to social, environmental and 
ethical matters, please refer to the Sustainability report, which 
can be found within the Strategic report on pages 62 to 107.

Other information which legislation requires to be disclosed in 
the Directors’ report is set out on the following pages.

The Strategic report and the Directors’ report together form the 
Management report for the purposes of the Disclosure Guidance 
and Transparency Rules (DTR) 4.1.8R.

Information relating to financial instruments can be found on 
pages 201 to 204 and is incorporated by reference.

Both the Strategic report and the Directors’ report have been 
drawn up and presented in accordance with and in reliance  
upon applicable English company law, and the liabilities of the 
Directors in connection with those reports shall be subject to  
the limitations and restrictions provided by such law.

DISCLOSURES RELATING TO THE BOARD
The Board of Directors
The Directors who have held office during the year ended 
31 March 2023, together with biographical details of each 
Director, are provided on pages 114 to 117. There were no changes 
to the Directors during the year. Andrew Harrison formally 
joined the Board subsequent to the year end, effective from 
1 May 2023.

The appointment and replacement of Directors are governed  
by the Company’s Articles of Association (the ‘Articles’), the UK 
Corporate Governance Code 2018 (the ‘Code’), the Companies 
Act 2006 (the ‘Act’) and related legislation.

The Company may, by ordinary resolution, declare dividends not 
exceeding the amount recommended by the Board. Subject to 
the Act, the Board may pay interim dividends and also any fixed 
rate dividend, whenever the financial position of the Company, 
in the opinion of the Board, justifies its payment.

The Directors may from time to time appoint one or more 
Directors. The Board may appoint any person to be a Director 
(so long as the total number of Directors does not exceed the 
limit prescribed in the Articles). Under the Articles, any such 
Director shall hold office only until the next Annual General 
Meeting (AGM) where they will stand for annual election.

Articles of Association and powers of Directors
The Articles set out the rules relating to the powers of the 
Company’s Directors and their appointment and replacement. 
The Articles may only be amended by special resolution at a 
general meeting of the shareholders. Subject to the Articles, the 
Companies Act and any directions given by special resolution, 
the business of the Company will be managed by the Board 
which may exercise all the powers of the Company.

Directors’ indemnities and insurance
The Company maintained Directors’ and Officers’ liability 
insurance cover throughout the reporting period and up until 
the date of publication of this Annual Report, providing 
appropriate cover for legal action brought against the Directors. 
The Directors may also obtain independent legal advice at the 
Company’s expense, as necessary, in their capacity as Directors. 
The Company has entered into deeds of indemnity with each 
Director, which were in force throughout the reporting period 
and up until the date of publication of this Annual Report. These 
provide that the Company shall indemnify the Directors to the 
fullest extent permitted by law and the Articles, in respect of all 
losses arising out of, or in connection with, the execution of their 
powers, duties and responsibilities as Directors of the Company 
or any of its subsidiaries.

Compensation for loss of office
There are no agreements between the Company and its 
Directors or employees providing for compensation for loss of 
office or employment that occurs as a result of a takeover bid.

Directors’ share interests
Details of Directors’ beneficial and non-beneficial interests in  
the shares of the Company are shown on page 147. Further 
information regarding employee share schemes is provided in 
note 26 to the financial statements on pages 206 to 208.

Directors’ conflicts of interest
The Company has put in place procedures for managing conflicts 
of interest. On becoming aware of the existence of an actual or 
potential conflict of interest impacting themselves or any person 
closely associated with them, the Directors are required to 
provide details to the Board for consideration and, if appropriate, 
its authorisation. If a conflict is deemed to exist, the relevant 
Director will excuse themselves from consideration for 
discussions relating to that conflict. Directors have a continuing 
duty to update any changes to these conflicts.

Related party transactions
Internal controls are in place to ensure that any related party 
transactions involving Directors, or their closely associated 
persons, are conducted on an arm’s length basis and are 
properly recorded and disclosed where appropriate.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

159

GOVERNANCEDirectors’ report continued

Directors’ service agreements and letters  
of appointment
Details of the Executive Directors’ service agreements and 
Non-Executive Directors’ letters of appointment are available  
in the Remuneration report on page 143.

DISCLOSURES RELATING TO SHARE CAPITAL
Share capital
Details of the Company’s issued share capital are set out in note 
24 to the financial statements on page 205. As at 31 March 2023, 
this comprised a single class of ordinary share carrying the right 
to one vote at general meetings of the Company. Holders of 
ordinary shares are entitled to attend and speak at general 
meetings of the Company, to appoint one or more proxies and,  
if they are corporations, corporate representatives to attend 
general meetings and to exercise voting rights. The Articles 
provide a deadline for submission of proxy forms of not earlier 
than 48 hours before the time appointed for the holding of the 
meeting or adjourned meeting. However, when calculating the 
48-hour period, the Directors can decide not to take account  
of any part of a day that is not a working day.

Holders of ordinary shares may receive a dividend, if declared, 
and may share in the assets of the Company on its liquidation. 
Holders of ordinary shares are entitled to receive the Company’s 
Annual Report and Accounts.

Subject to meeting certain thresholds, holders of ordinary 
shares may requisition a general meeting of the Company  
or the proposal of resolutions at AGMs.

Restrictions on transfer of securities
In connection with the IPO, IngreLux S.àr.l. and certain pre-IPO 
shareholders who are members of the Griggs family (the ‘Griggs 
Shareholders’) entered into an orderly marketing agreement  
(to which the Company is not a party) regulating the disposal of 
shares by any of them, such that disposals following the IPO could 
be coordinated and conducted in an orderly manner. A number  
of these restrictions have now lapsed. However, the orderly 
marketing agreement continues to stipulate that, following a 
disposal of shares by IngreLux S.àr.l., the parties agree that they 
will be bound by a lock-up on identical terms to the original 
lock-up entered into by IngreLux S.àr.l. and the Griggs 
Shareholders in connection with the IPO, for a period of 90 
calendar days from the date on which the disposal completes.

•  The subscriber ordinary shares may not be transferred 

without the prior written consent of the Directors;

•  The Board may, in its absolute discretion, refuse to register 
the transfer of any shares which are not fully paid, provided 
that the refusal does not prevent dealings in shares in the 
Company from taking place on an open and proper basis;

•  The Board may also refuse to register a transfer in favour  

of more than four transferees; and

•  The Board may also refuse to register the transfer of an 
uncertificated share in the circumstances set out in the 
uncertificated securities rules (as defined in the Articles).

Major shareholders
As at 31 March 2023, the Company had received notification of 
the following interests in voting rights pursuant to Chapter 5 of 
the DTR:

IngreLux S.àr.l.

10 January 2022

Date notified

% of
voting rights1

36.41%

GIC Private Limited

5 February 2021

4.2148%

BlackRock, Inc

25 June 2021

< 5%

1.   Percentages are shown as a percentage of the Company’s total voting rights 

as at the date the Company was notified of the change in holding.

No changes to the positions set out above and no new positions 
were disclosed to the Company between 31 March 2023 and the 
publication of this Annual Report. The percentages disclosed 
above represent the positions of each respective shareholder 
at the point at which a relevant notifiable threshold was crossed 
and the Company informed in accordance with DTR 5.1.2R. As 
such, they do not necessarily represent the positions as at the 
financial year end or the publication date of this Annual Report.

DISCLOSURES RELATING TO THE COMPANY
Profit and dividends
The profit for the financial year, after taxation, amounts to 
£128.9m. An interim dividend of 1.56p per ordinary share was 
announced on 24 November 2022 and paid in February 2023 in 
relation to the period under review and the Directors intend to 
propose the Company pay a final dividend for the year ending 
31 March 2023 of 4.28p per ordinary share.

Disclosures required under the UK Listing Rules

In addition to the specific restrictions set out above, there are 
the following ongoing general restrictions on the transfer of 
shares in the Company:

Listing Rule

Detail

Page reference(s)

9.8.4R (1-2), 
(4), (7-13)

Not applicable

N/A

9.8.4R (5-6) Waivers of future 

9.8.4R (14) 
(A-D)

emoluments

Agreements  
with controlling 
shareholder

Remuneration report pages 
139, 145 and 149

‘Relationship agreement with 
controlling shareholder’, page 
162, and ‘Additional statement 
of compliance with UK Listing 
Rule 9.8.4 (14)’, on page 161.

•  Certain restrictions apply which may from time to time  
be imposed by legislation and regulations (for example, 
legislation relating to insider dealing);

•  Pursuant to the Company’s Securities Dealing Code, the 
Directors and members of the leadership team require 
permission to deal in the Company’s shares;

•  Restrictions apply where a member, or any other person 

appearing to be interested in shares held by such member, 
with an interest representing at least 0.25% in nominal value 
of the issued shares of their class, has been served with a 
disclosure notice under Section 793 of the Companies Act 
2006 and has failed to provide the Company with information 
concerning interests in those shares;

160

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 
Additional statement of compliance with UK Listing 
Rule 9.8.4 (14)
Since the Company’s admission to listing, it has complied with 
the independence provisions contained in UK Listing Rule 
9.2.2ADR(1). So far as the Company is aware, IngreLux S.àr.l.  
and its associates have also complied with these provisions.

Events after the Balance Sheet date
The Group will seek the necessary approvals at  
its forthcoming AGM for an initial share buyback programme  
of £50m. The buyback will involve shares worth £50m being 
purchased from the open market and cancelled upon redemption. 

Subsidiaries and principal activities
The Company is the holding company of the Dr. Martens Group 
of companies (the ‘Group’), the principal activities of which  
are described in this Annual Report. The Group’s subsidiaries 
and their locations are set out in note 12 on page 222 of the 
financial statements.

Employment policies
The Company has in place a number of policies covering 
important issues including diversity, equity and inclusion, equal 
opportunities and wellbeing. We are committed to creating an 
environment where our people can all be proud to work and, to 
do this, we are an equal opportunity employer. All qualified 
applicants will receive consideration for employment without 
regard to race, colour, religion, gender, gender identity or 
expression, sexual orientation, national origin, genetics, 
disability or age and we take all reasonable steps to ensure 
equality of opportunity in recruitment, training, development 
and conditions of work. Persons with disabilities and/or health 
conditions are given full and fair consideration for available 
roles, having regard for their particular aptitudes and abilities, 
and we are committed to providing reasonable accommodations 
for qualified individuals with disabilities throughout our job 
application process. Employees who become disabled during 
their career at Dr. Martens will be retained in employment 
wherever possible and the Company will support them in their 
rehabilitation in the workplace and provide any training or 
retraining where needed.

Employee involvement
Clear and open communication with our people is fundamentally 
important to our culture and to securing our long-term success. 
We ensure our people across all the regions in which we operate 
globally are kept well informed of our performance and strategy 
and any significant events or developments impacting the 
business. Detailed information about how we involve our people 
at Dr. Martens can be found in the Sustainability report and the 
Strategic report, specifically on pages 23, 25, 29, 84 to 91, 125 
and 138.

Engagement with other stakeholders
Information about how the Directors have had regard for the 
Company’s key stakeholder groups, and the effect of that regard, 
can be found on pages 22 to 29 of the Strategic report.

Political donations
The Company did not make any political donations or incur any 
political expenditure during the year ended 31 March 2023.

External auditor
Resolutions proposing to re-appoint PricewaterhouseCoopers 
LLP as auditor of the Company and to authorise the Audit and 
Risk Committee to determine its remuneration will be proposed 
for shareholder approval at the upcoming AGM in July.

Agreements with controlling shareholder
Set out in the Directors’ report in the sections entitled 
‘Relationship agreement with controlling shareholder’ on page 
162, and ‘Additional statement of compliance with UK Listing 
Rule 9.8.4 (14)’ on page 161.

Change of control
The Company does not have any agreements with Directors  
or employees that would provide for compensation for loss  
of office or employment resulting from a takeover.

Details of the significant agreements to which the Company is 
party that take effect, alter or terminate upon a change of control 
of the Company following a takeover bid are set out below:

Share plans: The Company’s share plans contain specific 
provisions relating to change of control. Outstanding awards and 
options will normally automatically vest and become exercisable 
or payable on or following a change of control arising as a result 
of a general offer to acquire the whole of the Company’s issued 
share capital or a court sanctioned compromise or arrangement 
under Section 899 of the Companies Act 2006, subject to the 
relevant performance conditions being met at that time.

Bank loan facilities: The Senior Facilities Agreement dated 27 
January 2021 between the Group and various banks, pursuant to 
which the Group has access to: (i) a €337.5m term loan facility; 
and (ii) a £200m multi-currency revolving credit facility, contains 
provisions that, in the event of the occurrence of a change of 
control event, the banks shall have 15 business days to exercise 
an individual right: (a) to cancel all undrawn commitments on 
five business days’ notice; and (b) on 60 days’ notice to require 
that all outstanding participations in utilisations are repaid with 
accrued interest and any other relevant amounts accrued.

Relationship agreement: Details of the relationship agreement 
with IngreLux S.àr.l. are set out in the relevant section of this 
Directors’ report on the next page. The relationship agreement 
ceases to apply if the Company’s shares cease to be listed on the 
premium listing segment of the Official List and traded on the 
London Stock Exchange’s main market for listed securities, or if 
the holding of IngreLux S.àr.l. (together with any of its associates) 
ceases to control or to be entitled to control the exercise of, in 
aggregate, 10% or more of the votes able to be cast on all or 
substantially all matters at general meetings of the Company.

Modern Slavery Statement
The Company’s Modern Slavery Statement is reviewed and 
approved by the Board annually and published on our corporate 
website, in line with Section 54(1) of the Modern Slavery Act 
2015. The statement covers the activities of the Company and its 
subsidiaries and details policies, processes and actions we have 
taken to ensure that slavery and human trafficking are not 
taking place in our supply chains or any part of our business.

More information on our statement can be found on our website, 
www.drmartensplc.com.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

161

GOVERNANCEDirectors’ report continued

Relationship agreement with controlling 
shareholder
The Company’s largest and, for the purposes of the Listing Rules, 
controlling shareholder is IngreLux S.àr.l., which owns 36.96%  
of the issued share capital of Dr. Martens plc. IngreLux S.àr.l. is 
wholly owned by funds advised by Permira Advisers LLP, a global 
investment firm. In accordance with the UK Listing Rules, the 
Company and IngreLux S.àr.l. have entered into a relationship 
agreement (the ‘Relationship Agreement’) to ensure that:

1.  The Group can carry on an independent business as its  

main activity;

2.  Any transactions and arrangements between the Group and 
IngreLux S.àr.l. (and/or any of its associates) are at arm’s 
length and conducted on normal commercial terms;

3.  Neither IngreLux S.àr.l. nor any of its associates will take any 
action that would have the effect of preventing the Company 
from complying with its obligations under the Listing Rules;

4.  Neither IngreLux S.àr.l. nor any of its associates will propose 
or procure the proposal of a shareholder resolution which is 
intended or appears to be intended to circumvent the proper 
application of the Listing Rules; and

5.  At all times a majority of the Directors of the Company shall 

The Directors believe that the terms of the Relationship 
Agreement enable the Group to carry on its business 
independently of IngreLux S.àr.l. The Relationship Agreement 
will continue for so long as:

1.  The Company’s shares are listed on the premium listing 

segment of the Official List and traded on the London Stock 
Exchange’s Main Market for listed securities; and

2.  IngreLux S.àr.l. (together with any of its associates) controls 
or is entitled to control the exercise of in aggregate 10% or 
more of the votes able to be cast on all or substantially all 
matters at general meetings of the Company.

While IngreLux S.àr.l., on its own or together with any person 
with whom it is acting in concert, holds 30% or more of the 
votes able to be cast on all or substantially all matters at general 
meetings of the Company, it is considered a ‘controlling 
shareholder’ for the purposes of the Listing Rules. While 
IngreLux S.àr.l. remains a controlling shareholder, certain 
resolutions, such as resolutions relating to the election of 
Independent Directors or the cancellation of the Company’s 
listing, will, in order to be passed, need to be approved by both:

1.  A majority of shareholders voting on the resolution; and

be independent of IngreLux S.àr.l.

2.  A majority of shareholders voting on the resolution excluding 

IngreLux S.àr.l.

Annual General Meeting
The Company’s AGM will be held at Holiday Inn London, Camden 
Lock, 30 Jamestown Road, Camden NW1 7BY, on Thursday 13 July 
2023 at 9.30am. The Notice of Annual General Meeting will include 
details of the business to be put to shareholders at the AGM.

Pursuant to the Relationship Agreement, IngreLux S.àr.l. is also 
entitled to appoint one Non-Executive Director to the Board  
and nominate that individual to be a member of the Company’s 
Nomination Committee for so long as it (together with any of  
its associates) controls or is entitled to control the exercise of  
in aggregate 10% or more of the votes able to be cast on all or 
substantially all matters at general meetings of the Company. 
IngreLux S.àr.l.’s first appointed representative is Tara Alhadeff, 
whose biography can be found on page 117), and it will consult in 
advance with the Chair of the Nomination Committee regarding 
the identity of any person proposed to be nominated as a 
Non-Executive Director in the future. 

Pursuant to the Relationship Agreement, IngreLux S.àr.l. has 
certain information rights for the purposes of its accounting,  
tax or other regulatory requirements. In addition, the Company 
may request that Permira Advisers LLP provides it with advisory 
services. IngreLux S.àr.l. has undertaken to keep information  
it receives on the Group confidential and in accordance with 
applicable law.

The Relationship Agreement also provides for the Company to 
provide, subject to certain limitations and exceptions, reasonable 
cooperation and assistance to IngreLux S.àr.l. in the event of a 
sale of shares by IngreLux S.àr.l., and that IngreLux S.àr.l. will 
ensure that any such secondary sales of shares in the Company 
are conducted in an orderly manner.

162

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

STATEMENT OF DIRECTORS’ RESPONSIBILITIES IN RESPECT 
OF THE FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
The directors are responsible for preparing the Annual Report 
and the financial statements in accordance with applicable law 
and regulation.

DIRECTORS’ CONFIRMATIONS
The directors consider that the Annual Report and accounts, 
taken as a whole, is fair, balanced and understandable and 
provides the information necessary for shareholders to assess 
the group’s and company’s position and performance, business 
model and strategy.

Company law requires the directors to prepare financial 
statements for each financial year. Under that law the directors 
have prepared the group financial statements in accordance 
with UK-adopted international accounting standards and the 
company financial statements in accordance with United 
Kingdom Generally Accepted Accounting Practice (United 
Kingdom Accounting Standards, comprising FRS 101 “Reduced 
Disclosure Framework”, and applicable law).

Under company law, directors must not approve the financial 
statements unless they are satisfied that they give a true and 
fair view of the state of affairs of the group and company and  
of the profit or loss of the group for that period. In preparing  
the financial statements, the directors are required to:

•  select suitable accounting policies and then apply them 

consistently;

•  state whether applicable UK-adopted international accounting 

standards have been followed for the group financial 
statements and United Kingdom Accounting Standards, 
comprising FRS 101 have been followed for the company 
financial statements, subject to any material departures 
disclosed and explained in the financial statements;

•  make judgements and accounting estimates that are 

reasonable and prudent; and

•  prepare the financial statements on the going concern basis 
unless it is inappropriate to presume that the group and 
company will continue in business.

The directors are responsible for safeguarding the assets of the 
group and company and hence for taking reasonable steps for 
the prevention and detection of fraud and other irregularities.

The directors are also responsible for keeping adequate 
accounting records that are sufficient to show and explain  
the group’s and company’s transactions and disclose with 
reasonable accuracy at any time the financial position of  
the group and company and enable them to ensure that the 
financial statements and the Directors’ Remuneration Report 
comply with the Companies Act 2006.

The directors are responsible for the maintenance and integrity 
of the company’s website. Legislation in the United Kingdom 
governing the preparation and dissemination of financial 
statements may differ from legislation in other jurisdictions.

Each of the directors, whose names and functions are listed in 
Remuneration report confirm that, to the best of their knowledge:

•  the group financial statements, which have been prepared  
in accordance with UK-adopted international accounting 
standards, give a true and fair view of the assets, liabilities, 
financial position and profit of the group;

•  the company financial statements, which have been prepared 
in accordance with United Kingdom Accounting Standards, 
comprising FRS 101, give a true and fair view of the assets, 
liabilities and financial position of the company; and

•  the Directors’ report includes a fair review of the development 

and performance of the business and the position of the 
group and company, together with a description of the 
principal risks and uncertainties that it faces.

In the case of each director in office at the date the directors’ 
report is approved:

•  so far as the director is aware, there is no relevant audit 

information of which the group’s and company’s auditors  
are unaware; and

•  they have taken all the steps that they ought to have taken as 
a director in order to make themselves aware of any relevant 
audit information and to establish that the group’s and 
company’s auditors are aware of that information.

This Directors’ report was approved by a duly authorised 
committee of the Board of Directors on 31 May 2023 and  
signed on its behalf by:

EMILY REICHWALD 
COMPANY SECRETARY 
31 May 2023 
Dr. Martens plc 
Company number: 12960219

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

163

GOVERNANCEFINANCIAL
STATEMENTS

IN THIS SECTION
In this section

Independent Auditors’ report 

Consolidated Statement 
of Profit or Loss 

Consolidated Statement 
of Comprehensive Income 

Consolidated Balance Sheet 

Consolidated Statement 
of Changes in Equity 

Consolidated Statement 
of Cash Flows 

Consolidated Non-GAAP 
Statement of Cash Flows 

Notes to the Consolidated 
Financial Statements 

165

172

173

174

175

176

176

177

164

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Independent Auditors’ report
to the members of Dr. Martens plc

 REPORT ON THE AUDIT OF THE FINANCIAL STATEMENTS 

Opinion
In our opinion:

•  Dr. Martens plc’s group financial statements and company financial statements (the “financial statements”) give a true and fair 
view of the state of the group’s and of the company’s affairs as at 31 March 2023 and of the group’s profit and the group’s cash 
flows for the year then ended;

•  the group financial statements have been properly prepared in accordance with UK-adopted international accounting standards  

as applied in accordance with the provisions of the Companies Act 2006;

•  the company financial statements have been properly prepared in accordance with United Kingdom Generally Accepted Accounting 

Practice (United Kingdom Accounting Standards, including FRS 101 “Reduced Disclosure Framework”, and applicable law); and

•  the financial statements have been prepared in accordance with the requirements of the Companies Act 2006.

We have audited the financial statements, included within the Annual Report, which comprise: the Consolidated and Parent Company 
Balance Sheets as at 31 March 2023; the Consolidated Statement of Profit or Loss, the Consolidated Statement of Comprehensive 
Income, the Consolidated Statement of Cash Flows and the Consolidated and Parent Company Statements of Changes in Equity for 
the year then ended; and the notes to the financial statements, which include a description of the significant accounting policies.

Our opinion is consistent with our reporting to the Audit and Risk Committee.

Basis for opinion
We conducted our audit in accordance with International Standards on Auditing (UK) (“ISAs (UK)”) and applicable law. Our 
responsibilities under ISAs (UK) are further described in the Auditors’ responsibilities for the audit of the financial statements section 
of our report. We believe that the audit evidence we have obtained is sufficient and appropriate to provide a basis for our opinion.

Independence
We remained independent of the group in accordance with the ethical requirements that are relevant to our audit of the financial 
statements in the UK, which includes the FRC’s Ethical Standard, as applicable to listed public interest entities, and we have fulfilled 
our other ethical responsibilities in accordance with these requirements.

To the best of our knowledge and belief, we declare that non-audit services prohibited by the FRC’s Ethical Standard were not provided.

Other than those disclosed in Note 5, we have provided no non-audit services to the company or its controlled undertakings in the 
period under audit.

Our audit approach
Context
This is the first year that PwC has undertaken the audit of Dr. Martens plc.

Overview
Audit scope

•  We performed full scope audits of 4 components; 

•  In addition, for a further 5 components, we performed audit procedures on specific accounts within that component based on 

either the size or risk profile of those accounts; 

•  Specific audit procedures in relation to various Group activities, including over the consolidation, leases, share based payments, 

taxation, pensions and the carrying value of goodwill, were performed by the Group audit team centrally; and 

•  We performed a statutory audit of the company. 

Key audit matters

•  Existence of inventory at the Los Angeles (“LA”), US, warehouse (group).

•  Valuation of non-continuity inventory (group).

•  Recoverability of investments (parent company).

Materiality

•  Overall group materiality: £8.0 million based on 5% of Profit Before Tax.

•  Overall company materiality: £14.0 million based on Total Assets of 1%.

•  Performance materiality: £6.0 million (group) and £10.6 million (company).

The scope of our audit
As part of designing our audit, we determined materiality and assessed the risks of material misstatement in the financial statements.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

165

FINANCIAL STATEMENTSIndependent Auditors’ report
to the members of Dr. Martens plc continued

Key audit matters
Key audit matters are those matters that, in the auditors’ professional judgement, were of most significance in the audit of the 
financial statements of the current period and include the most significant assessed risks of material misstatement (whether or not 
due to fraud) identified by the auditors, including those which had the greatest effect on: the overall audit strategy; the allocation of 
resources in the audit; and directing the efforts of the engagement team. These matters, and any comments we make on the results 
of our procedures thereon, were addressed in the context of our audit of the financial statements as a whole, and in forming our 
opinion thereon, and we do not provide a separate opinion on these matters.

This is not a complete list of all risks identified by our audit.

Key audit matter

How our audit addressed the key audit matter

Existence of inventory at the LA Warehouse (group)

Refer to the Audit and Risk Committee report on page 151 and 
note 14 for details of total inventory held, which includes the 
inventory balances held at the LA distribution centre (“LA DC”) 
and satellite warehouses.

The LA DC is a new warehouse, managed by a third party logistics 
company (the “3PL”), that opened in FY23. The group experienced 
processing issues at the LA DC, resulting in an increased volume of 
inventory being held at 31 March 2023. Three satellite warehouse 
locations were also used to unload overflow containers and store 
a proportion of the inventory, in addition to a further site close to 
the manufacturing facilities in Asia that was used by the 3PL to 
hold inventory in-transit to the US.

Whilst the existence of inventory does not involve significant 
judgement, we focused on this risk due to the quantum of the 
inventory balance held at these locations, the scale of change 
that resulted in additional focus and attention from senior 
management and the extent of count procedures conducted  
by the 3PL and overseen by management.

Our response to this key audit matter was undertaken by our US 
component team. 

Under the group audit team’s direction and supervision, we 
validated the existence of inventory at the LA DC, satellite 
warehouses and in-transit inventory through a combination  
of the following audit procedures: 

•  We understood the processes and controls performed by the 
3PL to unpack the inventory held in containers at the LA DC, 
including the procedures to check the inventory into the 3PL’s 
warehouse management system;

•  Our PwC US senior team members visited the LA DC and two 

satellite warehouse to walk through the processes conducted by 
the 3PL to unpack, store and count the inventory at the sites;

•  We obtained confirmations from the 3PL confirming the 

inventory quantity at the LA DC and satellite warehouses at the 
year end date, including the inventory held in containers at the 
LA DC at this time;

•  We assessed the accuracy of cycle counts undertaken by the 3PL;

•  We attended a sample of cycle counts of the main warehouse 

and satellite locations;

•  We requested that management conduct a full inventory count 
at one of the satellite warehouses and in a specific area of the 
LA DC. We attended both counts;

•  We performed roll-forward procedures at one satellite 

warehouse where counts were undertaken prior to the year end 
date; and,

•  We traced inventory balance from goods in transit at the additional 

Asian warehouse to shipping documents after the year end. 

Based on the procedures performed, we were satisfied with the 
processes undertaken by the 3PL and management to verify that 
the inventory exists.

We also considered the appropriateness of the related disclosures 
in the financial statements. 

Based on the procedures performed, we noted no material issues 
arising from our work.

166

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Key audit matter

How our audit addressed the key audit matter

Valuation of non-continuity inventory (group)

Refer to the Audit and Risk Committee report on page 151 and Note 
14 Inventories and Note 2.26 Significant judgments and estimates.

The group sells a variety of footwear options and is subject to 
changing consumer demands and fashion trends, increasing the 
level of judgement involved in estimating inventory provisions.

The significant majority of inventory consists of “core” footwear 
product lines. These are boots and shoes which have carried 
the same style that Dr. Martens has been selling for many years. 
When determining the risk of inventory valuation of inventory 
held at 31 March 2023, we assessed the “core” product lines to 
be lower risk.

Other categories of inventory consist of footwear product lines 
that management chooses to not extend beyond certain 
seasons, or have different features to their core product range. 
We consider this “non-continuity” inventory to be at greater 
risk of obsolescence.

The Group’s inventory provision is primarily based on the 
classification of inventory product lines, inventory age and 
obsolescence risk.

Judgement is required to estimate future sales forecasts and 
alternative exit routes to clear this inventory, which attracts 
different provisioning rates.

We performed audit procedures over this risk area in five locations, 
which covered 96% (£255.7m) and 85% (£2.3m) of the total group 
inventory balance and inventory provision respectively. This 
balance includes all categories of inventory provisions.

We updated our understanding of the inventory provisioning 
process in each of the above locations assessing the conformity  
to group policy.

We re-computed the provision calculations and inputs to check  
for completeness and accuracy; including testing inventory 
classification within the provision working.

We challenged and validated the key assumptions applied by 
management in estimating the provision, with particular focus  
on historical sell through of aged / provided for items.

We performed sensitivity analysis to assess the significance  
and risk of changes in assumptions on the provision amount.  
We performed enquiries across the business and observed the 
inventory counts with particular focus on verifying the obsolete 
inventory and aged inventory which may have indicated that a 
provision may be required.

We satisfied ourselves that the inventory provisions were 
materially accurate. The sensitivity analysis highlighted that  
a reasonable possible change would not result in a material 
adjustment to the carrying value of inventory.

Recoverability of investments (company)

The audit procedures included:

Refer to Note 2 for accounting policies and Note 6 – 
Investments of the parent company financial statements. 

At 31 March 2023 the parent company held investments in 
subsidiaries with a carrying value of £1,413.2m (2022: 
£1,413.2m). The combination of the trading updates and fall  
in market capitalisation of the group before 31 March 2023  
is considered to be an impairment indicator and, as a result, 
management performed an impairment assessment for the 
carrying value of the investment. 

The realisation of the investment carrying value is dependent 
on the future performance of the trading entities within the 
group. The assessment therefore involves judgement, 
particularly in accurately forecasting future cash flows.

Management prepared an impairment assessment as at 
31 March 2023, creating a Value in Use (VIU) model reflecting 
the five year plan. To build the future net cash flows from 2024 
to 2028 the cash flows are continued into perpetuity, using  
an estimated terminal growth rate of 3%. Management also 
compared the carrying value of the investment to the market 
capitalisation at the year end date.

Through this assessment management identified that both  
the market capitalisation at 31 March 2023 and the VIU of  
the trading entities exceeded the carrying value of the parent 
company’s investments, therefore concluding that no 
impairment was required.

•  Verifying the market capitalisation at 31 March 2023 and in the 
period after the year end, both of which indicated headroom 
above carrying value;

•  Understood the basis of preparation of the five year plan and 
challenged the impact of climate change on the cash flows;

•  Supported by PwC valuations experts, we reviewed and 

challenged management’s independent discount rate and 
terminal growth rate for appropriateness;

•  We sensitised management’s assumptions in the VIU model,  

in particular considering the reduction in cash flows that would 
be required to create an impairment; and 

•  Completed mathematical accuracy checks over the model. 

Based on the above procedures we are satisfied that the Group’s 
VIU model supports the carrying value of the investment and 
management’s model is based on reasonable assumptions.

We also evaluated the disclosures in Note 2 – Accounting policies 
and Note 6 – Investments of the parent company financial 
statements, which we consider to be appropriate.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

167

FINANCIAL STATEMENTSIndependent Auditors’ report
to the members of Dr. Martens plc continued

How we tailored the audit scope
We tailored the scope of our audit to ensure that we performed enough work to be able to give an opinion on the financial statements 
as a whole, taking into account the structure of the group and the company, the accounting processes and controls, and the industry in 
which they operate.

We identified three financially significant components, being Airwair International Limited, Dr. Martens Airwair USA LLC, Dr Martens 
Airwair Wholesale Limited, where a full scope audit has been performed. In addition, at the request of management and the Audit 
and Risk Committee, we performed a full scope audit on Shanghai Airwair Trading Limited (China). To achieve the coverage desired, 
we identified a further five components where we performed audit procedures on specific accounts within that component based on 
either the size or risk profile of those accounts. The components where we performed audit procedures covered approximately 88% 
of the Group’s profit before tax, 90% coverage of revenue and 95% of net assets. 

Where work was performed by component auditors, detailed instructions were issued by us and the Group audit team conducted 
conference calls with component teams. For our financially significant and material components, oversight procedures included 
regular communication with the component team, reviewing their working papers, and attending the clearance meeting either 
virtually or in person. Specific audit procedures over central functions and areas of significant judgement, including consolidation, 
taxation, pensions, store impairment and the carrying value of goodwill were performed by the Group audit team centrally.

The impact of climate risk on our audit
As part of our audit we made enquiries of management to understand the extent of the potential impact of climate risk on the Group’s 
financial statements, and we remained alert when performing our audit procedures for any indicators of the impact of climate risk. 

Management has sought advice from external sustainability experts to help them understand the environmental challenges they face, 
and to source science-based inputs for their assessment of climate risk. We reviewed management’s paper which sets out its 
assessment of climate change risk to the Group and the impact, if any, on the financial statements and impairment testing. 

We read the disclosures in relation to climate change made in the other information within the Annual Report to ascertain whether  
the disclosures are materially consistent with the financial statements and our knowledge from our audit. Our responsibility over other 
information is further described in the Reporting on other information section of our report.

Our procedures did not identify any material impact as a result of climate risk on the group’s and parent company’s financial statements.

As part of the audit, we inquired of management to understand and evaluate the Group’s risk assessment process in relation to climate change.

Materiality
The scope of our audit was influenced by our application of materiality. We set certain quantitative thresholds for materiality. These, 
together with qualitative considerations, helped us to determine the scope of our audit and the nature, timing and extent of our 
audit procedures on the individual financial statement line items and disclosures and in evaluating the effect of misstatements, both 
individually and in aggregate on the financial statements as a whole.

Based on our professional judgement, we determined materiality for the financial statements as a whole as follows:

Overall materiality

£8.0 million.

How we determined it

5% of Profit Before Tax

£14.0 million.

Total Assets of 1%

Financial statements – Group

Financial statements – Company

Rationale for benchmark applied Based on the benchmarks used in the 

financial statements, profit before tax is the 
primary measure used by the shareholders in 
assessing the performance of the Group and 
is a generally accepted auditing benchmark. 

As the parent entity, Dr. Martens plc is a 
holding company for the group and therefore 
the materiality benchmark has been 
determined based on total assets which is a 
generally accepted auditing benchmark. 

For each component in the scope of our group audit, we allocated a materiality that is less than our overall group materiality.  
The range of materiality allocated across components was from £1.0 million to £7.2 million. Certain components were audited  
to a local statutory audit materiality that was also less than our overall group materiality.

We use performance materiality to reduce to an appropriately low level the probability that the aggregate of uncorrected and 
undetected misstatements exceeds overall materiality. Specifically, we use performance materiality in determining the scope of  
our audit and the nature and extent of our testing of account balances, classes of transactions and disclosures, for example in 
determining sample sizes. Our performance materiality was 75% of overall materiality, amounting to £6.0 million for the group 
financial statements and £10.6 million for the company financial statements.

In determining the performance materiality, we considered a number of factors – the history of misstatements, risk assessment and 
aggregation risk and the effectiveness of controls – and concluded that an amount at the upper end of our normal range was appropriate.

We agreed with the Audit and Risk Committee that we would report to them misstatements identified during our audit above 
£400,000 (group audit) and £700,000 (company audit) as well as misstatements below those amounts that, in our view, warranted 
reporting for qualitative reasons.

168

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Conclusions relating to going concern
Our evaluation of the directors’ assessment of the group’s and the company’s ability to continue to adopt the going concern basis  
of accounting included:

•  Assessing the risk around going concern at the planning and year end phases of the audit; 

•  Performing a walkthrough of the Group’s financial statement close process, budgeting and forecasting process and confirming  

our understanding of management’s going concern assessment process;

•  Obtaining management’s going concern model which included a base case, and a severe but plausible downside scenario covering the 
going concern assessment period. In addition to the severe but plausible case, management prepared a reverse stress test scenario; 

•  Critically assessing the assumptions within the models including; assessing the historical accuracy of management’s forecast and 

obtaining corroborating, and considering contradictory, evidence for the assumptions used; 

•  Considering the assumptions made regarding the extent of an economic downturn in the severe but plausible downside case and 

assessing whether there were any other scenarios which should be considered; 

•  Performing independent sensitivity analysis to the severe but plausible case to assess the impact on liquidity and covenant headroom;

•  Obtaining and reviewing the Group’s financing agreement, confirming our understanding of the agreements including those 

relating to covenant test ratio requirements. Checking the calculation of headroom in respect of the financial covenant test ratios 
and assessing the Group’s forecast banking covenant requirements; and, 

•  Confirming that consistent approaches to going concern, viability, impairment and other key areas of estimation have been used.

Based on the work we have performed, we have not identified any material uncertainties relating to events or conditions that, 
individually or collectively, may cast significant doubt on the group’s and the company’s ability to continue as a going concern  
for a period of at least twelve months from when the financial statements are authorised for issue.

In auditing the financial statements, we have concluded that the directors’ use of the going concern basis of accounting in the 
preparation of the financial statements is appropriate.

However, because not all future events or conditions can be predicted, this conclusion is not a guarantee as to the group’s and the 
company’s ability to continue as a going concern.

In relation to the directors’ reporting on how they have applied the UK Corporate Governance Code, we have nothing material to  
add or draw attention to in relation to the directors’ statement in the financial statements about whether the directors considered  
it appropriate to adopt the going concern basis of accounting.

Our responsibilities and the responsibilities of the directors with respect to going concern are described in the relevant sections  
of this report.

Reporting on other information
The other information comprises all of the information in the Annual Report other than the financial statements and our auditors’ 
report thereon. The directors are responsible for the other information. Our opinion on the financial statements does not cover  
the other information and, accordingly, we do not express an audit opinion or, except to the extent otherwise explicitly stated in this 
report, any form of assurance thereon.

In connection with our audit of the financial statements, our responsibility is to read the other information and, in doing so, consider 
whether the other information is materially inconsistent with the financial statements or our knowledge obtained in the audit, or 
otherwise appears to be materially misstated. If we identify an apparent material inconsistency or material misstatement, we are 
required to perform procedures to conclude whether there is a material misstatement of the financial statements or a material 
misstatement of the other information. If, based on the work we have performed, we conclude that there is a material misstatement 
of this other information, we are required to report that fact. We have nothing to report based on these responsibilities.

With respect to the Strategic report and Directors’ report, we also considered whether the disclosures required by the UK Companies 
Act 2006 have been included.

Based on our work undertaken in the course of the audit, the Companies Act 2006 requires us also to report certain opinions and 
matters as described below.

Strategic report and Directors’ report
In our opinion, based on the work undertaken in the course of the audit, the information given in the Strategic report and Directors’ 
report for the year ended 31 March 2023 is consistent with the financial statements and has been prepared in accordance with 
applicable legal requirements.

In light of the knowledge and understanding of the group and company and their environment obtained in the course of the audit, 
we did not identify any material misstatements in the Strategic report and Directors’ report.

Directors’ Remuneration
In our opinion, the part of the Remuneration report to be audited has been properly prepared in accordance with the Companies Act 2006.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

169

FINANCIAL STATEMENTSIndependent Auditors’ report
to the members of Dr. Martens plc continued

Corporate governance statement
The Listing Rules require us to review the directors’ statements in relation to going concern, longer-term viability and that part of 
the corporate governance statement relating to the company’s compliance with the provisions of the UK Corporate Governance 
Code specified for our review. Our additional responsibilities with respect to the corporate governance statement as other 
information are described in the Reporting on other information section of this report.

Based on the work undertaken as part of our audit, we have concluded that each of the following elements of the corporate 
governance statement, included within the Governance section is materially consistent with the financial statements and our 
knowledge obtained during the audit, and we have nothing material to add or draw attention to in relation to:

•  The directors’ confirmation that they have carried out a robust assessment of the emerging and principal risks;

•  The disclosures in the Annual Report that describe those principal risks, what procedures are in place to identify emerging risks 

and an explanation of how these are being managed or mitigated;

•  The directors’ statement in the financial statements about whether they considered it appropriate to adopt the going concern 

basis of accounting in preparing them, and their identification of any material uncertainties to the group’s and company’s ability 
to continue to do so over a period of at least twelve months from the date of approval of the financial statements;

•  The directors’ explanation as to their assessment of the group’s and company’s prospects, the period this assessment covers and 

why the period is appropriate; and

•  The directors’ statement as to whether they have a reasonable expectation that the company will be able to continue in operation 
and meet its liabilities as they fall due over the period of its assessment, including any related disclosures drawing attention to any 
necessary qualifications or assumptions.

Our review of the directors’ statement regarding the longer-term viability of the group and company was substantially less in scope 
than an audit and only consisted of making inquiries and considering the directors’ process supporting their statement; checking 
that the statement is in alignment with the relevant provisions of the UK Corporate Governance Code; and considering whether the 
statement is consistent with the financial statements and our knowledge and understanding of the group and company and their 
environment obtained in the course of the audit.

In addition, based on the work undertaken as part of our audit, we have concluded that each of the following elements of the 
corporate governance statement is materially consistent with the financial statements and our knowledge obtained during the audit:

•  The directors’ statement that they consider the Annual Report, taken as a whole, is fair, balanced and understandable, and provides  

the information necessary for the members to assess the group’s and company’s position, performance, business model and strategy;

•  The section of the Annual Report that describes the review of effectiveness of risk management and internal control systems; and

•  The section of the Annual Report describing the work of the Audit and Risk Committee.

We have nothing to report in respect of our responsibility to report when the directors’ statement relating to the company’s 
compliance with the Code does not properly disclose a departure from a relevant provision of the Code specified under the Listing 
Rules for review by the auditors.

Responsibilities for the financial statements and the audit
Responsibilities of the directors for the financial statements
As explained more fully in the Statement of Directors’ responsibilities, the directors are responsible for the preparation of the financial 
statements in accordance with the applicable framework and for being satisfied that they give a true and fair view. The directors are 
also responsible for such internal control as they determine is necessary to enable the preparation of financial statements that are free 
from material misstatement, whether due to fraud or error.

In preparing the financial statements, the directors are responsible for assessing the group’s and the company’s ability to continue as a 
going concern, disclosing, as applicable, matters related to going concern and using the going concern basis of accounting unless the 
directors either intend to liquidate the group or the company or to cease operations, or have no realistic alternative but to do so.

Auditors’ responsibilities for the audit of the financial statements
Our objectives are to obtain reasonable assurance about whether the financial statements as a whole are free from material 
misstatement, whether due to fraud or error, and to issue an auditors’ report that includes our opinion. Reasonable assurance is a high 
level of assurance, but is not a guarantee that an audit conducted in accordance with ISAs (UK) will always detect a material misstatement 
when it exists. Misstatements can arise from fraud or error and are considered material if, individually or in the aggregate, they could 
reasonably be expected to influence the economic decisions of users taken on the basis of these financial statements.

Irregularities, including fraud, are instances of non-compliance with laws and regulations. We design procedures in line with our 
responsibilities, outlined above, to detect material misstatements in respect of irregularities, including fraud. The extent to which our 
procedures are capable of detecting irregularities, including fraud, is detailed below.

Based on our understanding of the group and industry, we identified that the principal risks of non-compliance with laws and regulations 
related to the reporting framework (IFRS, Companies Act 2006), the Listing Rules of the UK Listing Authority and the relevant tax 
compliance regulations in the jurisdictions in which Dr. Martens plc operates and we considered the extent to which non-compliance might 
have a material effect on the financial statements. We evaluated management’s incentives and opportunities for fraudulent manipulation 

170

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

of the financial statements (including the risk of override of controls), and determined that the principal risks were related to the posting 
of inappropriate journals and management bias in accounting estimates. The group engagement team shared this risk assessment with 
the component auditors so that they could include appropriate audit procedures in response to such risks in their work. Audit procedures 
performed by the group engagement team and/or component auditors included:

•  Discussions with the Directors, the Audit and Risk Committee and Group General Counsel, including review of legal 

correspondence, internal audit reports, whistleblowing reports and Board meeting minutes and consideration of known or 
suspected instances of non-compliance with laws and regulations, and fraud; 

•  Challenging management on its critical accounting estimates and judgements; 

•  Identifying and testing journal entries to address the risk of inappropriate journals referred to above;

•  Audit of the tax charge and assets including, supported by PwC experts, a review of the transfer pricing policy; and 

•  Reviewing the financial statement disclosures and agreeing to underlying supporting documentation. 

There are inherent limitations in the audit procedures described above. We are less likely to become aware of instances of non-
compliance with laws and regulations that are not closely related to events and transactions reflected in the financial statements. 
Also, the risk of not detecting a material misstatement due to fraud is higher than the risk of not detecting one resulting from error, 
as fraud may involve deliberate concealment by, for example, forgery or intentional misrepresentations, or through collusion.

Our audit testing might include testing complete populations of certain transactions and balances, possibly using data auditing 
techniques. However, it typically involves selecting a limited number of items for testing, rather than testing complete populations. 
We will often seek to target particular items for testing based on their size or risk characteristics. In other cases, we will use audit 
sampling to enable us to draw a conclusion about the population from which the sample is selected.

A further description of our responsibilities for the audit of the financial statements is located on the FRC’s website at:  
www.frc.org.uk/auditorsresponsibilities. This description forms part of our auditors’ report.

Use of this report
This report, including the opinions, has been prepared for and only for the company’s members as a body in accordance with 
Chapter 3 of Part 16 of the Companies Act 2006 and for no other purpose. We do not, in giving these opinions, accept or assume 
responsibility for any other purpose or to any other person to whom this report is shown or into whose hands it may come save 
where expressly agreed by our prior consent in writing.

 OTHER REQUIRED REPORTING 

Companies Act 2006 exception reporting
Under the Companies Act 2006 we are required to report to you if, in our opinion:

•  we have not obtained all the information and explanations we require for our audit; or

•  adequate accounting records have not been kept by the company, or returns adequate for our audit have not been received  

from branches not visited by us; or

•  certain disclosures of directors’ remuneration specified by law are not made; or

•  the company financial statements and the part of the Remuneration report to be audited are not in agreement with the 

accounting records and returns.

We have no exceptions to report arising from this responsibility.

Appointment
Following the recommendation of the Audit and Risk Committee, we were appointed by the members on 14 July 2022 to audit  
the financial statements for the year ended 31 March 2023 and subsequent financial periods. This is therefore our first year of 
uninterrupted engagement.

 OTHER MATTER 

As required by the Financial Conduct Authority Disclosure Guidance and Transparency Rule 4.1.14R, these financial statements form 
part of the ESEF-prepared annual financial report filed on the National Storage Mechanism of the Financial Conduct Authority in 
accordance with the ESEF Regulatory Technical Standard (‘ESEF RTS’). This auditors’ report provides no assurance over whether the 
annual financial report has been prepared using the single electronic format specified in the ESEF RTS.

Jonathan Sturges (Senior Statutory Auditor) 
for and on behalf of PricewaterhouseCoopers LLP 
Chartered Accountants and Statutory Auditors 
London 
31 May 2023

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

171

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS 
Consolidated Statement of Profit or Loss
for the year ended 31 March 2023

Revenue
Cost of sales

Gross profit

Selling and administrative expenses

Finance income
Finance expense

Profit before tax

EBITDA1

Depreciation and amortisation2

Impairment

Exchange (losses)/gains2

Finance income
Finance expense

Profit before tax

Tax expense

Profit for the year

Earnings per share

Basic

Diluted

Note

3

4

8

3

4

4

8

9

Total 
FY23 
£m

1,000.3
(382.2)

618.1

(441.9)

1.9
(18.7)

159.4

245.0

(54.2)

(3.9)

(10.7)

1.9
(18.7)

159.4

(30.5)

128.9

Total 
FY22 
£m

908.3
(329.5)

578.8

(349.5)

0.1
(15.1)

214.3

263.0

(36.7)

(0.2)

3.2

0.1
(15.1)

214.3

(33.1)

181.2

Note

FY23 

FY22 

10

10

12.9p

12.9p 

18.1p

18.1p

1.  Alternative Performance Measure ‘APM’ as defined in the Glossary on pages 227 and 228.
2.  Exchange (losses)/gains were combined with depreciation and amortisation in FY22.

The results for the years presented above are derived from continuing operations and are entirely attributable to the owners of the 
Parent Company.

The notes on pages 177 to 215 form part of these consolidated financial statements.

172

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Consolidated Statement of Comprehensive Income
for the year ended 31 March 2023

Profit for the year

Other comprehensive income/(expense)

Items that may subsequently be reclassified to profit or loss

Currency translation differences

Cash flow hedges
Tax in relation to cash flow hedges

Total comprehensive income for the year

The notes on pages 177 to 215 form part of these consolidated financial statements.

Note

Total 
FY23 
£m

128.9

Total 
FY22 
£m

181.2

5.5

(0.6)
0.2

5.1

4.3

–
–

4.3

134.0

185.5

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

173

FINANCIAL STATEMENTSConsolidated Balance Sheet
for the year ended 31 March 2023

Non-current assets
Intangible assets
Property, plant and equipment
Right-of-use assets
Investments
Deferred tax assets

Current assets
Inventories
Trade and other receivables
Income tax assets
Derivative financial assets
Cash and cash equivalents

Total assets

Current liabilities
Trade and other payables1
Bank interest1
Lease liabilities
Derivative financial liabilities
Income tax payable

Non-current liabilities
Borrowings2
Lease liabilities
Provisions
Deferred tax liabilities

Total liabilities

Net assets

Equity attributable to the owners of the parent
Share capital
Hedging reserve
Capital reserve – own shares
Capital redemption reserve
Merger reserve
Non-UK translation reserve
Retained earnings

Total equity

1.  Bank interest was previously included within trade and other payables.
2.  Included in bank debt is £3.4m (FY22: £4.7m) of unamortised bank fees. 

Note

12
13
13
21
23

14
15

20
16

17
18
18
20

18
18
19
23

24
25
25
25
25
25
25

Total 
FY23 
£m

265.6
61.3
144.1
1.0
11.8

483.8

257.8
93.0
–
0.5
157.5

508.8

992.6

(127.7)
(6.0)
(28.1)
(1.3)
(1.4)

(164.5)

(293.4)
(124.3)
(4.4)
(1.8)

(423.9)

(588.4)

Total 
FY22 
£m

262.1
38.3
105.5
–
9.6

415.5

123.0
85.6
6.1
0.9
228.0

443.6

859.1

(133.9)
(0.8)
(19.8)
(0.5)
–

(155.0)

(280.9)
(93.1)
(1.9)
–

(375.9)

(530.9)

404.2

328.2

10.0
(0.5)
–
–
(1,400.0)
12.5
1,782.2

10.0
(0.1)
–
–
(1,400.0)
7.0
1,711.3

404.2

328.2

The notes on pages 177 to 215 form part of these consolidated financial statements.

The consolidated financial statements on pages 172 to 215 were approved and authorised by the Board of Directors on 31 May 2023 
and signed on its behalf by:

KENNY WILSON   
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER  
31 May 2023 

JON MORTIMORE 
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER 
31 May 2023

174

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Consolidated Statement of Changes in Equity
for the year ended 31 March 2023

At 1 April 2021

Comprehensive income

Profit for the year
Other comprehensive income

Total comprehensive income for the year

Dividends paid

Shares issued
Share–based payments

At 31 March 2022

Comprehensive income

Profit for the year
Other comprehensive income

Total comprehensive income for the year

Dividends paid

Shares issued
Share–based payments

At 31 March 2023

Note

Share 
capital
£m

Hedging 
reserve
£m

10.0

(0.1)

–
–

–

–

–
–

–
–

–

–

–
–

10.0

(0.1)

–
–

–

–

–
–

–
(0.4)

(0.4)

–

–
–

10.0

(0.5)

11

24
26

11

24
26

00

Capital 
reserves – 
own shares
£m

Capital 
redemption 
reserve
£m

Merger 
reserve
£m

Non-UK 
translation 
reserve
£m

Retained
earnings1
£m

Total  

equity
£m

–

–
–

–

–

–
–

–

–
–

–

–

–
–

–

– (1,400.0)

2.7

1,537.1

149.7

–
–

–

–

–
–

–
–

–

–

–
–

–
4.3

4.3

–

–
–

181.2
–

181.2

181.2
4.3

185.5

(12.2)

(12.2)

–
5.2

–
5.2

– (1,400.0)

7.0

1,711.3

328.2

–
–

–

–

–
–

–
–

–

–

–
–

–
5.5

5.5

–

–
–

128.9
–

128.9

128.9
5.1

134.0

(58.4)

(58.4)

–
0.4

–
0.4

– (1,400.0)

12.5 1,782.2

404.2

1.  Included within retained earnings Dr. Martens plc (the Company) has distributable reserves of £1,377.5m (FY22: £1,389.8m).

The notes on pages 177 to 215 form part of these consolidated financial statements.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

175

FINANCIAL STATEMENTSConsolidated Statement of Cash Flows
for the year ended 31 March 2023

Profit after taxation
Add back: income tax expense
Add back: finance expense
Add back: depreciation, amortisation and impairment
Add back: net exchange rate losses/(gains)
Add back: share-based payments charge

Increase in inventories
Increase in trade and other receivables
Decrease in trade and other payables

Change in net working capital3

Cash flows from operating activities
Cash generated from operations
Taxation paid

Cash generated from operating activities

Cash flows from investing activities
Additions to intangible assets
Additions to property, plant and equipment
Finance income received
Capital contributions received for right-of-use assets
Purchase of equity investment

Cash used in investing activities

Cash flows from financing activities
Finance expense paid
Payment of lease interest2
Payment of lease liabilities2
Dividends paid

Cash used in financing activities

Net (decrease)/increase in cash and cash equivalents
Cash and cash equivalents at beginning of year
Effect of exchange on cash held

Cash and cash equivalents at end of year

The notes on pages 177 to 215 form part of these consolidated financial statements.

Consolidated Non-GAAP Statement of Cash Flows

EBITDA1
Change in net working capital3
Capital expenditure

Operating cash flow1
Net interest paid
Payment of lease liabilities
Taxation
Purchase of equity investment
Exceptional items4
Dividends paid

Net cash flow
Opening cash
Net cash exchange

Cash and cash equivalents at end of year

Total  
FY23  
£m

128.9
30.5
16.8
58.1
10.7
0.5

(133.2)
(6.6)
(6.1)

(145.9)

99.6
(22.3)

77.3

(11.8)
(39.6)
1.6
0.2
(1.0)

(50.6)

(7.2)
(4.8)
(29.1)
(58.4)

(99.5)

(72.8)
228.0
2.3

157.5

FY23  
£m

245.0
(145.4)
(51.2)

48.4
(5.6)
(33.9)
(22.3)
(1.0)
–
(58.4)

(72.8)
228.0
2.3

157.5

Note

26

12
13

21

28
28
11

16

Note

28

21

11

16

16

Total  
FY22  
£m

181.2
33.1
15.0
36.9
(3.2)
5.2

(18.3)
(23.3)
(1.0)

(42.6)

225.6
(41.2)

184.4

(9.5)
(15.5)
–
–
–

(25.0)

(10.8)
(3.5)
(20.5)
(12.2)

(47.0)

112.4
113.6
2.0

228.0

FY22  
£m

263.0
(29.9)
(25.0)

208.1
(10.8)
(24.0)
(41.2)
–
(7.5)
(12.2)

112.4
113.6
2.0

228.0

1.  Alternative Performance Measures as defined in the Glossary on pages 227 and 228.
2.  Payment of lease interest was previously disclosed within payment of lease liabilities.
3.   The difference in working capital movements between the two cash flow statements relates to share-based payments, capital contributions received and exceptional items.
4.  All exceptional items paid were in relation to the IPO and refinancing event.

176

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statements
for the year ended 31 March 2023

1. General information
Dr. Martens plc (the ‘Company’) is a public company limited by shares incorporated in the United Kingdom, and registered and 
domiciled in England and Wales, whose shares are traded on the London Stock Exchange. The Company’s registered office is:  
28 Jamestown Road, Camden, London NW1 7BY. The principal activity of the Company and its subsidiaries (together referred to as 
the ‘Group’) is the design, development, procurement, marketing, selling and distribution of footwear, under the Dr. Martens brand. 

2. Accounting policies
The principal accounting policies adopted in the preparation of the financial statements are set out below. The policies have been 
consistently applied to the periods presented, unless otherwise stated. Amounts are presented in GBP and to the nearest million 
pounds (to one decimal place) unless otherwise noted.

2.1 Basis of preparation
The consolidated financial statements of the Group have been prepared in accordance with UK-adopted International Accounting 
Standards in conformity with the requirements of the Companies Act 2006 as applicable to companies reporting under those 
standards. The Group’s consolidated financial statements have been prepared on a going concern basis under the historical cost 
convention, except for equity investments, derivative financial instruments, money market funds, share-based payments and 
pension scheme assets that have been measured at fair value. 

Certain amounts in the Statement of Profit or Loss and the Balance Sheet have been grouped together for clarity, with their 
breakdown being shown in the notes to the financial statements. The distinction presented in the Balance Sheet between current 
and non-current entries has been made on the basis of whether the assets and liabilities fall due within one year or more.

In preparing the Consolidated Financial Statements management has considered the impact of climate change, particularly in the 
context of the financial statements as a whole, in addition to disclosures included in the Strategic report this year. This included an 
assessment of the impact on the carrying value of non-current assets and the impact on forecasts used in the impairment review 
and the assessments of going concern and longer term viability. These considerations did not have a material impact on the financial 
reporting judgements and estimates, consistent with the assessment that climate change is an emerging risk and not expected to 
have a significant impact on the Group’s going concern assessment to 30 September 2024 nor the viability of the Group over the 
next three years.

2.2 Basis of consolidation 
The consolidated financial statements comprise the financial statements of the Company and its subsidiaries as at 31 March 2023 
and 31 March 2022. Control is achieved when the Group has rights to variable returns from its involvement with the investee and the 
ability to use its power over the investee to affect the amount of the investor’s returns. Specifically, the Group controls an investee if, 
and only if, the Group has:

•  power over the investee (i.e. existing rights that give it the current ability to direct the relevant activities of the investee);

•  exposure, or rights, to variable returns from its involvement with the investee; and

•  the ability to use its power over the investee to affect its returns.

Generally, there is a presumption that a majority of voting rights results in control. To support this presumption and when the Group 
has less than a majority of the voting or similar rights of an investee, the Group considers all relevant facts and circumstances in 
assessing whether it has power over an investee, including:

•  the contractual arrangement(s) with the other vote holders of the investee;

•  rights arising from other contractual arrangements; and

•  the Group’s voting rights and potential voting rights.

The Group re-assesses whether or not it controls an investee if facts and circumstances indicate that there are changes to one or 
more of the three elements of control. Consolidation of a subsidiary begins when the Group obtains control over the subsidiary and 
ceases when the Group loses control of the subsidiary. Assets, liabilities, income and expenses of a subsidiary acquired or disposed 
of during the year are included in the consolidated financial statements from the date the Group gains control until the date the 
Group ceases to control the subsidiary.

Profit or Loss and each component of other comprehensive income are attributed to the equity holders of the parent of the Group. 
When necessary, adjustments are made to the financial statements of subsidiaries to bring their accounting policies in line with the 
Group’s accounting policies. All intra-group assets and liabilities, equity, income, expenses and cash flows relating to transactions 
between members of the Group are eliminated in full on consolidation.

A change in the ownership interest of a subsidiary, without a loss of control, is accounted for as an equity transaction.

If the Group loses control over a subsidiary, it derecognises the related assets (including goodwill), liabilities, non-controlling interest 
and other components of equity, while any resultant gain or loss is recognised in profit or loss. Any investment retained is 
recognised at fair value.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

177

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS2. Accounting policies continued
2.3 Adoption of new and revised standards 
The Group has not early adopted any amendments, standards or interpretations that have been issued but are not yet effective. 

New standards and interpretations not yet applied
The following new or amended IFRS accounting standards, amendments and interpretations are not yet adopted and it is expected 
that where applicable, these standards and amendments will be adopted on each respective effective date:

•  Amendments to IAS 1 – Presentation of financial statements: non-current liabilities with covenants

•  Amendments to IAS 1 – Classification of liabilities as current, and disclosure of accounting policies

•  Amendments to IAS 8 – Definition of accounting estimates

•  Amendments to IAS 12 – Deferred tax related to assets and liabilities arising from a single transaction

These standards, amendments or interpretations are not expected to have a material impact on the Group in the current or future 
reporting periods.

2.4 Non-UK currency
The consolidated financial statements are presented in GBP, which is the Group’s functional and presentational currency. The Group 
includes non-UK entities whose functional currencies are not Sterling. On consolidation, the assets and liabilities of the Group 
entities that have a functional currency different from the presentation currency are translated into GBP at the closing rate at the 
date of that Balance Sheet. Income and expenses for each Statement of Profit or Loss are translated at average exchange rates for 
the period. Exchange differences are recognised in other comprehensive income.

The functional currency of each company in the Group is that of the primary economic environment in which the entity operates. 
Monetary assets and liabilities denominated in non-UK currencies are translated into GBP at the rates of exchange ruling at the 
period end. Transactions in non-UK currencies are recorded at the rate ruling at the date of the transaction. All differences are taken 
to the Statement of Comprehensive Income. 

2.5 Going concern
The financial statements have been prepared on a going concern basis. The Directors’ assessment is based on detailed trading and 
cash flow forecasts, including forecast liquidity and covenant compliance. The period of management’s assessment is from the date 
of the signing of the financial statements to 30 September 2024 and the going concern basis is dependent on the Group maintaining 
adequate levels of resources to operate during the period.

The Directors also considered the Group funding arrangements at 31 March 2023 with cash of £157.5m, a term loan of £296.8m as well 
as available undrawn facilities of £196.3m. A bullet debt repayment of the term loan of £296.8m is not due until 2 February 2026.

FY23 experienced a steady deterioration in the global macro economy with differing impacts on several of our core markets. With 
the exception of China (which was closed due to strict Covid-19 related lockdowns during Q1) all our core markets had a strong Q1 
trading period. However, from Q2 a more negative consumer sentiment from weaker macro economic themes began to emerge. 

In EMEA, the war in Ukraine, expectation of higher inflation and significantly higher energy costs were compounded by increasing 
interest rates and resulted in variable DTC trading through the autumn. From November however, in part due to the benefit of a 
weaker base (from Covid-19 related trading restrictions in prior year), we experienced very strong DTC trading with Q4 growth 
accelerating compared to Q3 growth. This momentum has continued into Q1 to date.

In America, aggressively increasing interest rates and higher gas prices, dampened consumer spending with the sale of boots also 
negatively impacted by unseasonably warm weather through the autumn, and resulted in variable and soft DTC trading from 
September to the end of the financial year. This soft DTC trading is expected to continue through H1 FY24. Disappointingly, H2 was also 
significantly impacted by the LA DC supply bottleneck, which resulted in higher costs and slower wholesale shipments than planned. 
The operational issues at the LA DC have now been resolved and the planned work to expand capability and capacity to ship to all 
channels from our New Jersey DC is on track, to be completed for the AW23 season. This will mean we will have the ability to ship to all 
channels from both west and east coast. Following a review to right size forward cover inventory, we now expect to maintain the three 
satellite warehouses in LA for the full financial year, with inventory right-sized through H2 by buying less than we plan to sell. However, 
there will be a cost of renting the DCs to store the inventory of c.£15m which is included in the going concern period.

In APAC, Japan slowly recovered from Covid-19 through the year, with the requirement to wear masks inside finally ending in March 
2023. We expect Japan to steadily continue to recover from Covid-19 related restrictions through the new financial year. China and 
Hong Kong have very recently seen strong growth as Covid-19 restrictions were lifted at the turn of the calendar year and we expect 
to see these markets recover through the new financial year, albeit from a very small base.

178

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued2. Accounting policies continued
2.5 Going concern continued 
The Directors remain vigilant and continue to monitor a number of consumer confidence metrics across all our core markets. While 
global expectations are for inflation to slowly fall by the end of the year, interest rates are still expected to rise, the global political 
climate is difficult, the war in Ukraine is expected to continue, and together with recent banking volatility, this results in the Directors 
adopting a cautious outlook to the new financial year.

As part of the going concern assessment, management have modelled, and the Directors have reviewed, a base case and a severe 
but plausible downside scenario described in the Viability Statement set out on pages 60 and 61 of the Annual Report with no 
planned cost or working capital mitigating actions (including dividend payments). 

For more detail on the central planning assumptions that form part of the base case see page 60 in the Viability Statement.

Where appropriate and practical, we assessed the impact of a number of risks, described on pages 56 to 59, crystallising and 
subsequent impact on trading, cash flows and covenant compliance. The risks for modelling purposes in the severe but plausible 
downside scenario included all factories in one key production geographic area being out of production for a period of around three 
months (this has been assessed for two separate countries of production), website in a significant region out of action for a period of 
one month during peak trading, a large distribution centre being out of action for a period of around six months and weaker consumer 
sentiment and lower demand. These risks impact revenue and cost growth assumptions in the base case and have been sensitised 
downward to model the severe but plausible downside scenario with no planned cost or working capital mitigating actions (including 
dividend payments). The Group continues to have satisfactory liquidity and covenant headroom under each risk modelled individually. 
The impact was represented by revenue growth being 3pts lower than the base case across all channels and geographies. 

In the severe but plausible scenario modelled the Group continues to have satisfactory liquidity headroom but required remediation of 
the covenant headroom throughout the period under review. However, should this extreme downside scenario occur then mitigating 
actions could be taken including (but not limited to) cancellation of bonus, holding marketing investment in line with prior year 
percentage of revenue and delaying/cancellation of certain IT-related capex spend. Under this scenario dividends could be maintained, 
but would be reviewed if required. Experience through the two years of FY22 and FY23 indicated minimal wholesale bad debt risk 
and minimal margin risk with the principal risk being lower revenue. In the scenario modelled post mitigation, the Group continues  
to have satisfactory liquidity and covenant headroom throughout the period under review. A more extreme downside scenario is not 
considered plausible.

In addition, a reverse stress test has also been modelled to determine what could break covenant compliance estimates and liquidity 
before mitigating actions. To model these reverse stress tests the impact on revenue of zero covenant headroom and zero liquidity 
was calculated at the end of FY24. Under the covenant breach test it is concluded that the business could weather extreme growth 
reductions without mitigation, -26%pts1 to revenue growth in FY24 before covenants are breached. Similarly, the business would 
have to experience –61%pts1 revenue growth reduction in FY24 before zero cash headroom is reached. Under both tests modelled, 
there were no mitigating actions (including dividend payments) modelled. The Directors have assessed the likelihood of occurrence 
to be remote.

The Directors have assessed the qualitative and quantitative impact of climate-related risks on asset recoverable amounts and 
concluded that there would not be a material impact on the business in the viability period.

The Directors will continue to monitor the effects of global macro-economic considerations and geopolitical events on our Group 
and the economies and consumer confidence in the countries where we operate and we plan to maintain maximum flexibility to 
react, on a market-by-market basis.

In adopting the going concern basis for preparing the financial statements, the Directors have considered the business activities  
as well as the principal risks and uncertainties faced by the business. Based on the Group’s trading and cash flow forecasts, the 
Directors are satisfied that the Group will maintain an adequate level of resources to be able to continue to operate during the 
period under review. 

2.6 Share Incentive Plan (SIP) Trusts
The Group operates two SIP Trusts for the benefit of its employees. Under accounting standard IFRS 10 Consolidated Financial 
Statements, control for accounting purposes has a different test threshold than under a legal basis and as a result the Group’s SIP 
Trusts are deemed to be under the control of Dr. Martens plc. The Trust deed for the Dr. Martens plc UK Share Incentive Plan Trust 
was adopted by the Board on 10 September 2021. The Trust deed for the Dr. Martens plc International Share Incentive Plan Trust was 
adopted by the Board on 10 September 2021.

2.7 Revenue
The Group’s revenue arises from the sale of goods to customers. Contracts with customers generally have one performance obligation. 
The Group has concluded that the revenue from the sale of goods should be recognised at a point in time when control of the goods 
is transferred to the customer, which is dependent on the revenue channel. Revenue is recognised at the invoiced price less any 
associated discounts and sales taxes.

1.  On a constant currency basis, an Alternative Performance Measure ‘APM’ as defined in the Glossary on pages 227 to 228.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

179

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS2. Accounting policies continued
2.7 Revenue continued
The Group assessed its revenue channels against the IFRS 15 five-step model, identifying the contracts, the performance obligations 
and the transaction price, and then allocating this to determine the timing of revenue recognition. The revenue channels that have 
been separately assessed are as follows:

•  ecommerce revenue, including delivery charge income;

•  retail revenue; and

•  wholesale revenue.

Control is passed to the customer on the following basis under each of the revenue channels as follows:

•  ecommerce channel: upon receipt of the goods by the customer;

•  retail channel: upon completion of the transaction; and

•  wholesale channel: upon delivery of the goods or upon dispatch to the customer if the customer takes responsibility for delivery. 

The payment terms across each of these revenue channels varies. The payments for retail are received at the transfer of control. 
Ecommerce payments are mainly received in advance of transfer of control by less than one week as there is a timing difference 
between receipt of cash on order and receipt of goods by the customer. Wholesale customers pay on terms generally between 30 
and 60 days.

Some contracts for the sale of goods provide customers with a right of return and rebates. Under IFRS 15, this gives rise to variable 
consideration.

Rights of return
When a contract provides a customer with a right of return, under IFRS 15, the consideration is variable because the contract allows the 
customer to return the product. The Group uses the expected value method to estimate the goods that will be returned and recognise  
a refund liability and an asset for the goods to be recovered. Provisions for returned goods are calculated based on future expected 
levels of return for each channel, assessed across a variety of factors such as historical trends, economic factors and other measures. 

Rebates 
Under IFRS 15, rebates give rise to variable consideration. To estimate this the Group applies the most likely amount method. 

2.8 Finance income and expenses
Finance expenses consist of interest payable on various forms of debt and finance income consists of interest receivable amounts 
from cash held. Both are recognised in the Statement of Profit or Loss under the effective interest rate method.

2.9 Exceptional items
Exceptional items consist of material non-recurring items and items arising outside the normal trading of the Group. 

2.10 Taxation
The tax expense represents the sum of the tax currently payable and deferred tax movement recognised. The tax currently payable 
is based on taxable profit. Taxable profit differs from net profit as reported in the Statement of Profit or Loss because it excludes 
items of income or expense that are taxable or deductible in other periods and it further excludes items that are never taxable or 
deductible. The Group’s liability for current tax is calculated by using tax rates that have been enacted or substantively enacted by 
the end of each reporting period. The Group applies IFRIC 23 Uncertainty over Income Tax Treatments to measure uncertain tax 
positions. The Group calculates each provision using either the expected value method or the most likely outcome method in line 
with the guidance contained within IFRIC 23. The uncertain tax positions are reviewed regularly and there is ongoing monitoring of 
tax cases and rulings which could impact the provision.

Deferred tax is the tax expected to be payable or recoverable on differences between the carrying amount of assets and liabilities in 
the historical financial information and the corresponding tax bases used in the computation of taxable profit and is accounted for 
using the Balance Sheet liability method. Deferred tax liabilities are recognised for all taxable temporary differences and deferred 
tax assets are recognised to the extent that it is probable that taxable profits will be available against which deductible temporary 
differences can be utilised. Such assets and liabilities are not recognised if the temporary difference arises from goodwill or from  
the initial recognition (other than in a business combination) of other assets and liabilities in a transaction which affects neither  
the taxable profit nor the accounting profit. Deferred tax liabilities are recognised for taxable temporary differences arising in 
investments in subsidiaries except where the Group is able to control the reversal of the temporary difference and it is probable that 
the temporary difference will not reverse in the foreseeable future. The carrying amount of deferred tax assets is reviewed at the 
end of each reporting period and reduced to the extent that it is no longer probable that sufficient taxable profits will be available  
to allow all or part of the asset to be recovered. 

180

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued2. Accounting policies continued
2.10 Taxation continued
Deferred tax is calculated at the tax rates that are expected to apply to the period when the asset is realised, or the liability is 
settled. Deferred tax is charged or credited in the Statement of Profit or Loss, except when it relates to items credited or charged 
directly to equity, in which case the deferred tax is also dealt with in equity. Both deferred tax assets and liabilities and current tax 
assets and liabilities are offset when there is a legally enforceable right to set off current tax assets against current tax liabilities, 
when they relate to income taxes levied by the same taxation authority, and the Group intends to settle its current tax assets and 
liabilities on a net basis.

2.11 Dividends
Final dividends are recorded in the financial statements in the period in which they are approved by the Company’s shareholders. 
Interim dividends are recorded in the period in which they are approved and paid.

2.12 Intangible assets
Goodwill
Business combinations are accounted for by applying the acquisition method. Goodwill acquired represents the excess of the fair 
value of the consideration over the fair value of the identifiable net assets acquired.

After initial recognition, positive goodwill is measured at cost less any accumulated impairment losses. At the date of acquisition, 
the goodwill is allocated to cash generating units, usually at business segment level or statutory company level as the case may be, 
for the purpose of impairment testing and is tested at least annually for impairment. If any such indication of impairment exists, the 
assets’ recoverable amount is estimated. For goodwill, the recoverable amount is estimated at each year-end date and whenever 
there is an indication of impairment. On subsequent disposal or termination of a business acquired, the profit or loss on termination 
is calculated after charging the carrying value of any related goodwill. Negative goodwill is recognised directly in the Statement of 
Profit or Loss.

Separately acquired intangible assets
Separately acquired intangible assets comprise other intangibles. Other intangibles that have finite useful lives are carried at cost 
less accumulated amortisation and any provision for impairment. The finite life other intangibles are amortised on a straight line 
basis over the expected useful economic life of each of the assets. Amortisation expense is charged to selling and administrative 
expenses. Other intangibles with an indefinite useful life are carried at cost less impairment. These are other intangibles for which 
the estimated useful life is indefinite. The carrying value of intangible assets is reviewed for impairment whenever events or changes 
in circumstances indicate the carrying value may not be recoverable.

Software
Software comprises of internally generated software development. Research expenditure is charged to income in the year in which it 
is incurred. Development expenditure is charged to income in the year it is incurred unless it meets the recognition criteria of IAS 38 
Intangible Assets to be capitalised as an intangible asset. Following initial recognition of the development expenditure as an asset, 
the asset is carried at cost less any accumulated amortisation and impairment losses. Amortisation begins when development is 
complete, and the asset is available for use. These assets are considered to have finite useful lives and are amortised on a straight 
line basis over the expected useful economic life of the assets, which is considered to be three to seven years. Amortisation expense 
is charged to selling and administrative expenses. The carrying value of intangible assets is reviewed for impairment whenever 
events or changes in circumstances indicate the carrying value may not be recoverable.

2.13 Property, plant and equipment
Property, plant and equipment is carried at cost less accumulated depreciation and provision for impairment. Depreciation is 
calculated to write down the cost of the assets less estimated residual value over its expected useful life as follows:

•  Freehold properties 

2% straight line method

•  Freehold improvements 

10% straight line method

•  Leasehold improvements   

2% straight line method or over the life of the lease

•  Plant and machinery 

15% straight line method

•  Office and computer equipment 

33% for computer equipment and 20% for all other office equipment straight line method

•  Motor vehicles 

33% straight line method

Depreciation expense is charged to selling and administrative expenses. Any gain or loss arising on the derecognition of the asset 
(calculated as the difference between the net disposal proceeds and the carrying amount of the asset) is included in the Statement 
of Profit or Loss in the period that the asset is derecognised.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

181

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS 
 
 
 
 
2. Accounting policies continued
2.14 Impairment
The carrying amounts of the Group’s relevant assets are reviewed at each year-end date to determine whether there is any indication 
of impairment. If any such indication exists, the assets’ recoverable amount is estimated. For goodwill and intangible assets that have 
an indefinite useful life and intangible assets that are not yet available for use, the recoverable amount is estimated at each year-end 
date and whenever there is an indication of impairment. An impairment loss is recognised whenever the carrying amount of an asset or 
its cash generating unit exceeds its recoverable amount. Impairment losses are recognised in the Statement of Profit or Loss in those 
expense categories consistent with the function of the impaired asset. Refer to notes 12 and 13 for further details.

2.15 Lease accounting
The Group assesses at contract inception whether a contract is, or contains, a lease. That is, if the contract conveys the right to 
control the use of an identified asset for a period of time in exchange for consideration.

Group as a lessee
The Group applies a single recognition and measurement approach for all leases, except for short-term leases and leases of 
low-value assets. As part of the measurement approach, the Group uses its incremental borrowing rate which is adjusted by both 
property type and geography. The Group recognises lease liabilities to make lease payments and right-of-use assets representing  
the right to use the underlying assets.

i) Right-of-use assets
The Group recognises right-of-use assets at the commencement date of the lease (i.e. the date the underlying asset is available for 
use). Right-of-use assets are measured at cost, less any accumulated depreciation and impairment losses, and adjusted for any 
remeasurement of lease liabilities. The cost of right-of-use assets includes the amount of lease liabilities recognised, initial direct costs 
incurred, and lease payments made at or before the commencement date less any lease incentives received. Right-of-use assets  
are depreciated on a straight line basis over the shorter of the lease term and the estimated useful lives of the assets, as follows:

•  Right-of-use-assets – Shorter of lease term and estimated useful life (3 to 15 years)

If ownership of the leased asset transfers to the Group at the end of the lease term or the cost reflects the exercise of a purchase 
option, depreciation is calculated using the estimated useful life of the asset. The right-of-use assets are also subject to impairment. 
Refer to the accounting policies in the Impairment of non-financial assets section.

ii) Lease liabilities
At the commencement date of the lease, the Group recognises lease liabilities measured at the present value of lease payments to 
be made over the lease term. The lease payments include fixed payments (including in substance fixed payments) less any lease 
incentives receivable, variable lease payments that depend on an index or a rate, and amounts expected to be paid under residual 
value guarantees. The lease payments also include the exercise price of a purchase option reasonably certain to be exercised by the 
Group and payments of penalties for terminating the lease, if the lease term reflects the Group exercising the option to terminate.

Variable lease payments that do not depend on an index or a rate are recognised as expenses (unless they are incurred to produce 
inventories) in the period in which the event or condition that triggers the payment occurs.

In calculating the present value of lease payments, the Group uses its incremental borrowing rate (adjusted by both property type 
and geography) at the lease commencement date because the interest rate implicit in the lease is not readily determinable. After the 
commencement date, the amount of lease liabilities is increased to reflect the interest charge and reduced for the lease payments 
made. In addition, the carrying amount of lease liabilities is remeasured if there is a modification that does not increase the scope of 
the lease, a change in the lease term, a change in the lease payments (e.g. changes to future payments resulting from a change in an 
index or rate used to determine such lease payments) or a change in the assessment of an option to purchase the underlying asset. 
A lease modification is accounted for as separate lease where the modification increases the scope of the lease, and the lease 
consideration increases by an amount reflecting the stand-alone price for the increase in scope.

The Group’s lease liabilities are included in interest-bearing loans and borrowings (note 18).

iii) Short-term leases and leases of low-value assets
The Group applies the short-term lease recognition exemption to its short-term leases of machinery and equipment (i.e. those leases 
that have a lease term of 12 months or less from the commencement date and do not contain a purchase option). It also applies the 
lease of low-value assets recognition exemption to leases of office equipment that are considered to be low value. Lease payments 
on short-term leases and leases of low-value assets are recognised as an expense on a straight line basis over the lease term.

2.16 Inventories
Inventories are stated at the lower of cost and net realisable value. Inventories are valued at weighted average cost, including freight 
to warehouse and duty. Net realisable value is based on estimated selling price less any costs expected to be incurred to completion 
or disposal.

182

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued2. Accounting policies continued
2.17 Financial instruments
A financial instrument is any contract that gives rise to a financial asset of one entity and a financial liability or equity instrument  
of another entity.

Offsetting of financial instruments
Financial assets and financial liabilities are offset and the net amount is reported in the Consolidated Balance Sheet if there is a 
currently enforceable legal right to offset the recognised amounts and there is an intention to settle on a net basis, to realise the 
assets, and to settle the liabilities simultaneously.

Categorisation of inputs for fair value measurements
Assets and liabilities held at fair value are categorised into levels that have been defined according to IFRS 13 ‘Fair Value 
Measurement’ measurement hierarchy as follows:

•  quoted prices (unadjusted) in active markets for identical assets or liabilities (Level 1);

•  inputs other than quoted prices included within Level 1 that are observable for the asset or liability, either directly (that is, as 

prices) or indirectly (that is, derived from prices) (Level 2); and

•  inputs for the asset or liability that are not based on observable market data (that is, unobservable inputs) (Level 3).

The fair value of derivatives are calculated using quoted prices in relevant exchanges at the end of the reporting period. Where such 
prices are not available, the Group uses valuation models to determine the fair values based on observable market curves such as 
forward foreign exchange rates, discounted back to present value using risk free interest rates. The impacts of counterparty credit, 
volatility and currency basis are also considered as part of the fair valuation where appropriate. 

All financial instruments held at fair value within the Group are assessed as being measured as Level 2 except for equity investments 
which are classified as Level 3 due to observable data to derive fair value being unavailable.

2.18 Financial assets
Recognition and derecognition
Purchases and sales of financial assets are recognised on trade date being the date on which the Group commits to purchase or  
sell the asset. Financial assets are derecognised when the rights to receive cash flows from the financial assets have expired or  
have been transferred and the Group has transferred substantially all the risks and rewards of ownership. 

Investments
Equity investments that are not held for trading have been irrevocably designated as fair value through other comprehensive 
income. Subsequent to initial recognition at fair value plus transaction costs, these assets are recorded at fair value at each period 
end with the movements recognised in other comprehensive income until derecognition or impaired. On derecognition, the 
cumulative gain or loss previously recognised in other comprehensive income is never recycled to the income statement. Dividends 
on financial assets at fair value through other comprehensive income are recognised in the income statement when the entity’s 
right to receive payment is established. Equity investments are recorded in non-current assets unless they are expected to be sold 
within one year.

Trade and other receivables
Trade receivables are assessed under IFRS 9 and measured at amortised cost using the effective interest rate method. The Group 
recognises an allowance for expected credit losses (ECLs) for all debt instruments not held at fair value through profit or loss 
(FVPL). The most significant financial assets of the Group are its cash and trade receivables. ECLs are based on the difference 
between the contractual cash flows due in accordance with the contract and all the cash flows that the Group expects to receive, 
discounted at an approximation of the original effective interest rate.

Cash and cash equivalents
Cash and cash equivalents primarily comprise cash held within bank accounts, Money Market Funds (MMFs) and bank term deposits 
maturing less than three months from inception. All cash is held short term in highly liquid investments that are readily convertible 
to a known amount of cash and are subject to an insignificant risk of changes in value. 

Included within cash and cash equivalents are debit and credit card payments made by customers which are receivable from card 
acquiring financial institutions, and cash in transit from various payment processing intermediaries that provide receipting services 
to the Group.

All cash and cash equivalents are measured at amortised cost with the exception of MMFs which are held at fair value through profit 
or loss. 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

183

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS2. Accounting policies continued
2.19 Financial liabilities
The Group classifies and measures all of its non-derivative financial liabilities at amortised cost.

Initial recognition
Financial liabilities are classified according to the substance of the contractual arrangements entered into. 

Derecognition
A financial liability is derecognised when the obligation under the liability is discharged or cancelled or expires. When an existing 
financial liability is replaced by another from the same lender on substantially different terms, or the terms of an existing liability 
are substantially modified, such an exchange or modification is treated as the derecognition of the original liability and the 
recognition of a new liability. The difference in the respective carrying amounts is recognised in the Statement of Profit or Loss. 

Trade and other payables
Trade payables are obligations to pay for goods or services that have been acquired in the course of ordinary business from 
suppliers. Accounts payable are classified as current liabilities if payment is due within one year or less. If not, they are presented  
as non-current liabilities. Trade payables are recognised initially at fair value and subsequently held at amortised cost using the 
effective interest rate method.

2.20 Derivative financial instruments and hedging activities
The Group uses exchange forward contracts to hedge its non-UK currency risks. Such derivative financial instruments are initially 
recognised at fair value on the date a derivative contract is entered into and are subsequently remeasured at fair value. The method 
of recognising the resulting gain or loss depends on whether the derivative is designated as a hedging instrument, and if so, the 
nature of the item being hedged. 

Gains or losses arising from changes in fair value related to derivatives held in a cash flow hedge relationship are recognised in 
other comprehensive income/(expense) and deferred in the hedging reserve to the extent that the hedges are deemed effective. 
Amounts are transferred to the income statement in the same period in which the hedged risk affects the income statement and 
against the same line item.

The Group designates exchange derivative hedges on a full forward or spot basis. Where only the spot element of an exchange 
derivative is designated, the cost of hedging election is applied to the forward points with fair value movements recognised in other 
comprehensive income and released to profit or loss depending on the nature of the underlying hedged item.

The Group performs regular hedge effectiveness testing. For cash flow hedges where the forecast transaction is no longer expected 
to occur, hedge accounting is discontinued, and all accumulated gains or losses held in the hedging reserve are immediately 
recognised in profit or loss. Where hedge accounting is discontinued as a result of expiry, disposal or termination of the derivative 
instrument (and where the hedge relationship was deemed to be effective), accumulated gains or losses up to the point of 
discontinuation are held in the hedging reserve and released to profit or loss in line with the hedged item.

Derivative financial instruments consist of foreign currency exchange forward contracts, which are categorised within Level 2 under 
the IFRS 13 measurement hierarchy (refer to note 2.17 for further detail on fair value level categorisation). 

The full fair value of derivatives which are not designated in a hedge accounting relationship are classified as a non–current asset or 
liability if the remaining maturity of the derivatives is more than 12 months and as a current asset or liability if the maturity of the 
derivatives which are not designated in a hedge accounting relationship are less than 12 months.

2.21 Borrowings
Borrowings are recognised initially at fair value, net of transaction costs incurred, and subsequently carried at amortised cost using 
the effective interest rate method so that any difference between the proceeds (net of transaction costs) and the redemption value 
is recognised in the Statement of Profit or Loss over the period of the borrowings. Details of the Group’s borrowings are included in 
note 18.

Borrowing costs
The Group expenses borrowing costs in the period the costs are incurred. Where borrowing costs are attributable to the acquisition, 
construction or production of a qualifying asset, such costs are capitalised as part of the specific asset and amortised over the 
estimated useful life of the asset. Details of the Group’s borrowings are included in note 18.

184

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued2. Accounting policies continued
2.22 Pension arrangements
The Group provides pension benefits which include both defined benefit and defined contribution arrangements.

Defined contribution pension schemes
For defined contribution schemes the amount charged to the Statement of Profit or Loss represents the contributions payable to the 
plans in the accounting period. Differences between contributions payable in the period and contributions actually paid are shown as 
either accruals or prepayments in the Balance Sheet.

Defined benefit pension scheme
The Group operates a defined benefit pension scheme, which requires contributions to be made to separately administered funds for 
administration expenses. The Group did not make any contributions to the scheme in the year (FY22: £nil). The UK defined benefit 
scheme was closed to new members on 6 April 2002, from which time membership of a defined contribution plan was available. It 
was then closed to all future accrual for all existing members on 31 January 2006. A valuation of the Plan is carried out at least once 
every three years to determine whether the Statutory Funding Objective is met. The last valuation was carried out at 30 June 2022, 
the next valuation is due at 30 June 2025. No asset is recognised in the Balance Sheet in respect of defined benefit pension plans 
due to the uncertainty over the Group’s right to a refund of the surplus from the Scheme as set out in note 2.26. The defined benefit 
obligation is calculated annually by independent actuaries using the projected unit credit method. The present value of the defined 
benefit obligation is determined by discounting the estimated future cash outflows using interest rates of high-quality corporate 
bonds that are denominated in the currency in which the benefits will be paid, and that have terms to maturity approximating to the 
terms of the related pension obligation. Past-service costs are recognised immediately in income. 

The net interest cost is calculated by applying the discount rate to the net balance of the defined benefit obligation and the fair 
value of plan assets. The net interest cost is limited by the asset ceiling. When occurring, this cost is included in employee benefit 
expense in the Statement of Profit or Loss. Actuarial gains and losses arising from experience adjustments and changes in actuarial 
assumptions are charged or credited to equity in other comprehensive income in the period in which they arise.

2.23 Share-based payments
The Group provides benefits to employees in the form of share-based payment transactions, whereby employees render services as 
consideration in exchange for equity instruments (‘equity-settled transactions’).

The cost of equity-settled transactions is measured by reference to the fair value of the equity instruments at the date on which 
they are granted and is recognised as an expense over the vesting period, which ends on the date the relevant employee becomes 
fully entitled to the award. The fair value is calculated using an appropriate option pricing model and takes into account the impact 
of any market performance conditions. The impact of non-market performance conditions is not considered in determining the fair 
value at the date of grant. Vesting conditions which relate to non-market conditions are allowed for in the assumptions used for the 
number of options expected to vest. The level of vesting is reviewed at each balance sheet date and the charge adjusted to reflect 
actual and estimated levels of vesting. The cost of share-based payment transactions is recognised as an expense over the vesting 
period of the awards, with a corresponding increase in equity. Further details of share-based awards granted in the year can be 
found in note 26.

A proportion of the annual Executive Bonus Scheme is settled in the form of purchased Parent Company shares. This is accounted 
for as a cash-settled scheme as although participants received equity, it is driven by a cash amount that is paid and converted into 
shares at a point in time. The proximity of the date of communication of the bonus to when the shares are received means that 
there would be minimal difference between cash- and equity-settled treatment. 

2.24 Share capital
Ordinary shares are classified as equity. Incremental costs directly attributable to the issue of new shares or options are shown in 
equity as a deduction, net of tax, from the proceeds.

2.25 Alternative Performance Measures (APMs)
Management exercises judgement in determining the adjustments to apply to IFRS measurements in order to derive suitable APMs. 
As set out on pages 227 to 228 of the Glossary, APMs are used as management believes these measures provide additional useful 
information on the underlying trends, performance and position of the Group. These measures are used for performance analysis. 
The APMs are not defined by IFRS and therefore may not be directly comparable with other companies’ APMs. These measures are 
not intended to be a substitute for, or superior to, IFRS measurements.

2.26 Significant judgements and estimates
The preparation of the Group’s financial statements in conforming with IFRS requires management to make judgements, estimates 
and assumptions that affect the application of policies and reported amounts in the financial statements. These judgements and 
estimates are based on management’s best knowledge of the relevant facts and circumstances. However, the nature of estimation 
means that actual outcomes could differ from those estimates. Information about such judgements and estimation is contained in 
the accounting policies and/or notes to the financial statements and the key areas are summarised below:

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

185

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS2. Accounting policies continued
2.26 Significant judgements and estimates continued
Key judgements
The following judgement has had the most significant effect on amounts recognised in the financial statements:

Defined benefit scheme surplus
The Group acknowledges that the recognition of pension scheme surplus is an area of accounting judgement, which depends on the 
interpretation of the Scheme Rules and the relevant accounting standards including IAS 19 and IFRIC 14. The surplus under the scheme 
is not recognised as an asset benefiting the Group on the Balance Sheet, as the Group believes there is uncertainty in relation to the 
recoverability of any surplus, which is therefore unlikely to derive any economic benefits from that surplus. In the Group’s view there is 
uncertainty over whether the Scheme Rules provide the Group with an unconditional right to a refund of the surplus from the scheme due 
to third-party discretionary investment powers which could use up any surplus prior to wind-up. Consistent with previous years, given this 
uncertainty, the Group has applied an asset ceiling to the pension scheme surplus of zero. As such, an asset ceiling has been applied to the 
Balance Sheet, and the net surplus of £11.1m (FY22: £13.3m) has not been recognised on the Balance Sheet. The net surplus has been 
capped to £nil (FY22: £nil). The key sensitivities of the defined benefit obligation to the actuarial assumptions are shown in note 29.

Other areas of judgement and accounting estimates
The Consolidated Financial Statements include other areas of judgement and accounting estimates. While these areas do not meet 
the definition under IAS 1 of significant accounting estimates or critical accounting judgements, the recognition and measurement  
of certain material assets and liabilities are based on assumptions and/or are subject to longer term uncertainties. The other areas 
of judgement and accounting estimates are listed below:

Judgements
Determining the lease term of contracts with renewal and termination options – Group as lessee
The Group determines the lease term as the non-cancellable term of the lease, together with any periods covered by an option to 
extend the lease if it is reasonably certain to be exercised, or any periods covered by an option to terminate the lease, if it is 
reasonably certain not to be exercised. 

The Group has several lease contracts that include extension and termination options. The Group applies judgement in evaluating 
whether it is reasonably certain whether or not to exercise the option to renew or terminate the lease. That is, it considers all 
relevant factors that create an economic incentive for it to exercise either the renewal or termination. After the commencement 
date, the Group reassesses the lease term if there is a significant event or change in circumstances that is within its control and 
affects its ability to exercise or not to exercise the option to renew or to terminate (e.g. construction of significant leasehold 
improvements or significant customisation to the leased asset).

The Group included the renewal period as part of the lease term for leases of plant and machinery with shorter non-cancellable 
periods (i.e. three to five years). The Group typically exercises its option to renew these leases because there will be a significant 
negative effect on production if a replacement asset is not readily available. The renewal periods for leases of leasehold property 
with longer non-cancellable periods (i.e. 10 to 15 years) are not included as part of the lease term as these are not reasonably certain 
to be exercised. Furthermore, the periods covered by termination options are included as part of the lease term only when they are 
reasonably certain not to be exercised. 

Sources of estimation uncertainty and assumptions
The following estimates are dependent upon assumptions which could change in the next financial year and have an effect on the 
carrying amount of assets and liabilities recognised at the Balance Sheet date:

Inventory provisions
Inventory provisioning requires significant judgement on which inventory lines should be classed as obsolete. Inventory age, historic 
sales patterns and trading forecasts are used when classifying inventory lines to be provided against.

Corporation tax
The Group recognises liabilities for anticipated tax issues based on estimates of whether additional taxes will be due. Where the final 
tax outcome of these matters is different from the amounts that were initially recorded, such differences will impact the current and 
deferred tax assets and liabilities in the period in which the determination is made. Management is required to determine the 
amount of deferred tax assets that can be recognised, based upon the likely timing and level of future taxable profits, together with 
an assessment of the effect of future tax planning strategies (see notes 9 and 23). In addition, the assessment of uncertain tax 
positions is based on management’s interpretation of relevant tax rules and decided cases, external advice obtained, the statute of 
limitations, the status of the negotiations and past experience with tax authorities. In evaluating whether a provision is needed it is 
assumed that tax authorities have full knowledge of the facts and circumstances applicable to each issue.

Carrying value of non-financial assets
The Group assesses at each reporting date whether there is an indication that an asset may be impaired. If any indication exists, or 
when annual impairment testing for an asset is required, the Group estimates the asset’s recoverable amount. An asset’s recoverable 
amount is the higher of an asset’s or cash generating unit (CGU) fair value less costs of disposal and its value in use. The recoverable 
amount is determined for an individual asset, unless the asset does not generate cash inflows that are largely independent of those 
from other assets or groups of assets. When the carrying amount of an asset or CGU exceeds its recoverable amount, the asset is 
considered impaired and is written down to its recoverable amount. In assessing value in use, the estimated future cash flows are 
discounted to their present value using a pre-tax discount rate that reflects current market assessments of the time value of money 
and the risks specific to the asset. In determining fair value less costs of disposal, recent market transactions are taken into account. 
If no such transactions can be identified, an appropriate valuation model is used. These calculations are corroborated by valuation 
multiples, quoted share prices for publicly traded companies or other available fair value indicators.

186

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued2.26 Significant judgements and estimates continued
Determining the carrying value of an asset or CGU requires the use of estimates of future cash flows and discount rates in order  
to calculate the present value of the cash flows. For details see notes 12 and 13.

Retirement benefit liabilities
Determining the fair value of the defined benefit pension scheme, which relates to the pension of the Group, requires assumptions 
to be made by management and the Group’s independent qualified actuary around the actuarial valuations of the scheme’s assets 
and liabilities. For details see note 29.

Leases – estimating the incremental borrowing rate
The Group cannot readily determine the interest rate implicit in the lease; therefore, it uses its incremental borrowing rate (IBR) to 
measure lease liabilities. The IBR is the rate of interest that the Group would have to pay to borrow over a similar term, and with a 
similar security, the funds necessary to obtain an asset of a similar value to the right-of-use asset in a similar economic environment. 
The IBR therefore reflects what the Group ‘would have to pay’, which requires estimation when no observable rates are available (such 
as for subsidiaries that do not enter into financing transactions) or when they need to be adjusted to reflect the terms and conditions 
of the lease (for example, when leases are not in the subsidiary’s functional currency). The Group estimates the IBR using observable 
inputs (such as market interest rates) when available and is required to make certain entity-specific estimates (such as the subsidiary’s 
stand-alone credit rating). The IBR is reassessed when there is a reassessment of the lease liability or a lease modification.

3. Segmental analysis
IFRS 8 ‘Operating Segments’ requires operating segments to be determined by the Group’s internal reporting to the Chief Operating 
Decision Maker (CODM). The CODM has been determined to be both the CEO and CFO, who receive information on this basis of  
the Group’s revenue in key geographical regions based on the Group’s management and internal reporting structure. The CODM 
assesses the performance of geographical segments based on a measure of revenue and EBITDA1. To increase transparency the 
Group also includes additional voluntary disclosure analysis of global revenue within different operating channels. Included within 
EMEA is revenue attributable to Airwair International Limited and Airwair Wholesale Limited, the principal UK trading subsidiaries of 
Dr. Martens plc, with revenue from retail stores in Continental Europe and wholesale and export customers, America revenue is fully 
attributable to the USA and Canada, export revenue to certain South America markets stopped in the first half of FY22, and APAC 
revenue is mainly attributable to Japan, Australia, China and South Korea. The types of products from which each reportable 
segment derives its revenue are consistent across all segments.

Revenue by geographical market4

EMEA

America
APAC

Total revenue

4.  Revenue by geographical market represents revenue from external customers; there is no inter-segment revenue.

EBITDA1 by geographical market

EMEA

America

APAC
Support costs

EBITDA1

Depreciation, amortisation and impairment2

Depreciation and impairment of right-of-use assets3
Exchange (losses)/gains

Depreciation, amortisation, impairment and exchange (losses)/gains

Finance income and expense

Profit before tax

1.  Alternative Performance Measure ‘APM’ as defined in the Glossary on pages 227 and 228.
2.  Includes impairment charge of £0.6m (FY22: £0.2m), refer to note 13.
3.  Includes impairment charge of £3.3m (FY22: £nil), refer to note 13.

FY23 
£m

FY22
£m

443.0

428.2
129.1

1,000.3

398.5

382.7
127.1

908.3

FY23 
£m

FY22 
£m

146.1

100.1

33.8
(35.0)

143.8

120.0

32.6
(33.4)

245.0

263.0

(22.6)

(35.5)
(10.7)

(68.8)

(16.8)

159.4

(14.4)

(22.5)
3.2

(33.7)

(15.0)

214.3

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

187

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS3. Segmental analysis continued

Revenue by channel

Ecommerce
Retail

Total DTC revenue
Wholesale

Total revenue

Non-current assets

EMEA1

America

APAC

Goodwill
Deferred tax

Total non-current assets

1.  Included in the EMEA non-current assets is £79.4m (FY22: £60.6m) in relation to the UK legal entities. 

4. Expenses analysis
Profit before tax is stated after charging and crediting:

Selling and administrative expenses

Staff costs
Operating costs

Amortisation

Depreciation1

Depreciation of right-of-use assets

Impairment1

Impairment of right-of-use assets
Exchange losses/(gains)

Depreciation, amortisation, impairment and exchange losses/(gains)

Total selling and administrative expenses

1.  Impairment of £0.2m in FY22 was previously included within depreciation.

5. Auditor’s remuneration

Fees payable to the Company’s auditor for the audit of the Parent Company and 
consolidated financial statements

Fees payable to the Company’s auditor for other services:

The audit of the Company’s subsidiaries
Other services – including interim review

FY23 
£m

FY22 
£m

279.0
241.7

520.7
479.6

1,000.3

262.4
185.6

448.0
460.3

908.3

FY23 
£m

FY22 
£m

143.3

72.6

15.4

240.7
11.8

483.8

107.9

46.1

11.2

240.7
9.6

415.5

Notes

FY23 
£m

FY22 
£m

6

12

13

13

13

13

143.8
229.3

373.1

8.4

13.6

32.2

0.6

3.3
10.7

68.8

441.9

PwC
FY23 
£m

0.6

1.1
0.1

1.81

132.6
183.2

315.8

4.7

9.5

22.5

0.2

–
(3.2)

33.7

349.5

EY
FY22 
£m

0.6

0.8
0.1

1.5

1.   Auditor’s remuneration of £2.1m disclosed in the Audit and Risk Committee Report on page 156 is different to this as it includes additional fees relating to the FY23 

audit which were agreed and have been incurred as an accounting expense in FY24.

188

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued6. Staff costs 
The monthly number of employees (including Directors) employed by the Group during the year was:

EMEA

America

APAC
Global support functions

FTE1
As at 31 March

Average2
 For the year ended 31 March 

 2023 
 No. 

951

580

468
592

 2022 
 No. 

810

547

412
460

 2023 
 No. 

1,615

768

484
594

 2022 
 No. 

1,359

662

471
431

2,591

2,229

3,461

2,923

1.  FTE (Full Time Equivalent) is calculated by dividing the employee’s contracted hours by the Group’s standard full time contract hours.
2.  Average is the average actual employees of the Group during the year calculated on a monthly basis. 

The aggregate payroll costs were as follows: 

Wages and salaries

Social security costs

Pension costs
Other benefits1

1.  Includes share-based payments of £0.5m (FY22: £5.2m).

7. Directors’ remuneration 
The remuneration of Executive Directors of the Company is set out below:

Salaries and benefits
Pension costs

The remuneration of the highest paid Director was: 

Salaries and benefits
Pension costs

FY23 
£m

117.5

13.4

4.7
8.2

143.8

FY22 
£m

106.8

10.8

6.0
9.0

132.6

FY23 
£m

1.2
0.1

1.3

FY23 
£m

0.8
–

0.8

FY22 
£m

2.6
0.1

2.7

FY22 
£m

1.3
–

1.3

The highest paid Director is not entitled to receive benefits under the defined benefits pension scheme. No retirement benefits are 
accruing to Directors under a defined contribution scheme (FY22: £nil). Further details on Directors’ remuneration can be found in 
the Remuneration report on pages 139 to 150 of the Annual Report.

8. Finance expense 

Bank debt and charges1,2

Interest on lease liabilities
Amortisation of bank loan issue costs

Total financing expense

FY23 
£m

12.7

4.8
1.2

18.7

FY22 
£m

10.4

3.5
1.2

15.1

1.   Bank debt expense was £12.7m (FY22: £10.4m), compared to interest paid in the period of £5.6m (FY22: £10.8m), with the difference of £7.1m (FY22: £0.4m) relating 

to timing of interest payments on the debt. 

2.  Interest income of £1.9m (FY22: £0.1m) was previously included within ‘Bank debt and charges’.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

189

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS9. Tax expense
The Group calculates the tax expense for the year using the tax rate that would be applicable to the expected total annual earnings. 
The major components of tax expense in the Consolidated Statement of Profit or Loss are:

Current tax
Current tax on UK profit for the year
Adjustment in respect of prior years
Current tax on overseas profits for the year

Deferred tax
Origination and reversal of temporary differences
Adjustment in respect of prior years

FY23 
£m

28.1
(1.7)
4.3

30.7

(1.0)
0.8

(0.2)

FY22 
£m

40.0
(8.8)
4.3

35.5

(2.5)
0.1

(2.4)

Total tax expense in the Consolidated Statement of Profit or Loss

30.5

33.1

Other comprehensive income
Tax in relation to unexercised share options
Tax in relation to cash flow hedges

Total tax expense in the Consolidated Statement of Comprehensive Income 

Factors affecting the tax expense for the year:
Profit before tax

Profit before tax multiplied by standard rate of UK corporation tax of 19% (FY22: 19%)
Effects of:
Non-deductible expenses
Effect of change in tax rate
Share-based payments
Difference in non-UK tax rates
Other adjustments
Adjustments in respect of prior years1
Adjustments in respect of prior year exceptional items2

Total tax expense in the Consolidated Statement of Profit or Loss
Tax in relation to unexercised share options
Tax in relation to cash flow hedges

Total tax expense in the Consolidated Statement of Comprehensive Income

Effective tax rate

Before prior year exceptional items

After prior year exceptional items

–
(0.2)

30.3

FY23 
£m

–
–

33.1

FY22 
£m

159.4

30.3

214.3

40.7

0.2
0.1
0.1
0.8
(0.1)
(0.9)
–

30.5
–
(0.2)

30.3

–
0.1
0.2
1.0
(0.2)
0.2
(8.9)

33.1
–
–

33.1

FY23

FY22

19.1%

19.1%

19.5%

15.4%

1.   The adjustments in respect of the prior year are in relation to current and deferred tax on temporary differences. 
2.   The adjustments in respect of the prior year are in relation to bonus payments paid to all employees following the IPO in January 2021 which were treated as non-

deductible. However, following a similar tax case and subsequent tax counsel advice we took a deduction in FY22.

Factors that may affect future tax charges
On 3 March 2021, the 2021 UK Budget announced an increase to the corporation tax rate from 19% to 25% effective from April 2023. 
This was substantively enacted on 24 May 2021.

In February 2022, the OECD released its Administrative Guidance on the Pillar Two Global Anti-Base Erosion rules. The UK has announced 
the intention to bring these into effect for accounting periods beginning on or after 31 December 2023 and provided draft legislation. While 
the overarching framework and guidance has been published, we are awaiting the final legislation and additional guidance to assess the 
full implications.

190

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued10. Earnings per share
The calculation of basic earnings per share is based on the profit attributable to ordinary shareholders of the Parent Company 
divided by the weighted average number of ordinary shares in issue during the year.

Diluted earnings per share is calculated by dividing the profit for the year attributable to ordinary equity holders of the Parent 
Company by the weighted average number of ordinary shares in issue during the year plus the weighted average number of ordinary 
shares that would be issued on the conversion of all dilutive potential ordinary shares into ordinary shares. 

Profit after tax

Weighted average number of shares for calculating basic earnings per share (millions)
Potentially dilutive share awards (millions)

FY23 
£m

128.9

FY23 
No.

1,000.5
0.7

FY22 
£m

181.2

FY22 
No.

1,000.1
2.8

Weighted average number of shares for calculating diluted earnings per share (millions)

1,001.2

1,002.9

FY23

FY22

Earnings per share

Basic earnings per share
Diluted earnings per share

Underlying1 earnings per share

Underlying1 basic earnings per share

Underlying1 diluted earnings per share

12.9p
12.9p

12.9p

12.9p

1.   In FY22, underlying earnings per share is calculated as earnings before adjustments in respect of prior year exceptional items of £8.9m in relation to IPO 

exceptional costs.

11. Dividends

Equity dividends on ordinary shares declared and paid during the year

Final dividend paid for FY22: 4.28p (FY21: nil)
Interim dividend for FY23: 1.56p (FY22: 1.22p)

Total dividends declared and paid during the year

Proposed for approval by shareholders at the AGM

(not recognised as a liability at 31 March 2023 or 31 March 2022)
Final dividend for FY23: 4.28p (FY22: 4.28p)

Total interim dividend paid and final dividend proposed

Dividend as a % of earnings

Dividend per share

Total dividend per share (pence)

18.1p
18.1p

17.4p

17.4p

FY22 
£m

–
12.2

12.2

FY23 
£m

42.8
15.6

58.4

42.8

42.8

58.4

55.0

45%

30%

5.84

5.50

The Board has approved and the Company has proposed a final dividend of 4.28p (FY22: 4.28p). As previously guided the Board  
has adopted a dividend policy which is unchanged at 25% to 35% of earnings payout. The policy takes into consideration the 
characteristics of our business, our expectations for future cash flows and our plans for organic investment in innovation and 
productivity. We intend to pay dividends twice a year following the normal in-year trading profile. The Board recognises, and is 
confident, that the strong year end cash position, and significant cash generation expected during H2 of FY24 from purchasing less 
inventory than we plan to sell, coupled with future growth, will normalise the dividend payout ratio towards 35% of the earnings. 
The Dr. Martens plc International Share Incentive Plan Trust has waived all dividends payable by the Company in respect of the 
ordinary shares it holds. Subject to approval at the AGM on 13 July 2023, the dividends will be paid to shareholders on the register  
at 9 June 2023 with payment on 18 July 2023.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

191

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS12. Intangible assets

Cost

At 1 April 20211

Additions

Disposals

Reclassifications to right-of-use assets3

Other intangible assets reclassification
Exchange

At 31 March 2022

Additions

Disposals

Reclassifications to right-of-use assets3

Reclassifications to property, plant and equipment
Exchange

Software
intangibles1,2

£m

Other
intangibles
£m

Goodwill
£m

Total1
£m

29.8

1.2

240.7

271.7

9.5

(0.2)

(2.2)

1.9
–

–

–

–

–
–

–

–

–

–
–

9.5

(0.2)

(2.2)

1.9
–

38.8

1.2

240.7

280.7

11.8

(2.5)

(0.2)

(0.1)
0.4

–

–

–

–
–

–

–

–

–
–

11.8

(2.5)

(0.2)

(0.1)
0.4

At 31 March 2023

48.2

1.2

240.7

290.1

Accumulated amortisation and impairment

At 1 April 20211

Charge for the year

Disposals

Other intangible assets reclassification
Exchange

At 31 March 2022

Charge for the year

Disposals
Exchange

At 31 March 2023

Net book value

At 31 March 2023

At 31 March 2022

12.1

4.7

(0.2)

1.9
0.1

18.6

8.4

(2.4)
(0.1)

24.5

23.7

20.2

–

–

–

–
–

–

–

–
–

–

–

–

–

–
–

–

–

–
–

–

12.1

4.7

(0.2)

1.9
0.1

18.6

8.4

(2.4)
(0.1)

24.5

1.2

1.2

240.7

265.6

240.7

262.1

1.   Results for the year ended 31 March 2021 have been retrospectively restated in relation to a change in accounting policy for the treatment of cloud-based software. 

This resulted in £nil impact on cash. 

2.  Software intangible additions in the year of £11.8m (FY22: £9.5m) include permanent employee staff costs capitalised of £0.6m (FY22: £nil).
3.  Relates to a reclassification of assets to right-of-use assets in relation to key money.

192

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued12. Intangible assets continued
Impairment assessment
The Group tests whether goodwill has suffered any impairment on an annual basis. The recoverable amount of a cash generating 
unit (CGU) is determined based on the higher of fair value less cost to sell and value-in-use calculations which requires the use of 
assumptions. The calculations use cash flow forecasts based on financial projections approved by the Board covering a five-year 
period. Where the recoverable amount is less than the carrying value, an impairment results. For the purposes of carrying out 
impairment tests, the Group’s total goodwill has been allocated to a number of CGUs and each of these CGUs has been separately 
assessed and tested. The CGUs were agreed by the Directors as the geographical regions in which the Group operates. These regions 
are the lowest level at which goodwill is monitored and represent identifiable operating segments.

The aggregate carrying amount of goodwill allocated to each CGU was as follows:

EMEA
America
APAC

FY23 
£m

66.6
114.1
60.0

FY22 
£m

66.6
114.1
60.0

240.7

240.7

All CGUs were tested for impairment. No charge was made in the current year (FY22: £nil).

Significant judgements, assumptions and estimates
All CGUs’ recoverable amounts are measured using value in use. At each period end, detailed forecasts for the following five years 
have been used, which are approved by the Board based on annual budgets and strategic projections representing the best estimate 
of future performance. Management considers forecasting over this period to appropriately reflect the business cycle of the CGUs. 
There have been no changes to the composition of the Group’s CGUs during the period. In determining the value in use of CGUs it is 
necessary to make a series of assumptions to estimate the present value of future cash flows. In each case, these key assumptions 
have been made by management reflecting past experience and are consistent with relevant external sources of information.

Operating cash flows
The main assumptions within forecast operating cash flow include the achievement of future growth in ecommerce, retail and 
wholesale channels, sales prices and volumes (including reference to specific customer relationships and product lines), raw material 
input costs, the cost structure of each CGU, the impact of non-UK currency rates upon selling price and cost relationships and the 
levels of capital expenditure required to support each sales channel.

Pre-tax risk adjusted discount rates
This rate reflects the specific risks relating to each segment and considers the countries and regions they operate in. This has been 
considered and for the regions has been calculated to be 10.2% for EMEA (FY22: 9.1%), 10.1% for America (FY22: 9.6%), and 10.0% 
for APAC (FY22: 9.1%). Pre-tax risk adjusted discount rates are derived from risk-free rates based upon long-term government bonds 
adjusted for risk factors such as market and region risk in the territories and averaged for the Group. Included within this analysis 
are long-term growth rates. To forecast beyond the detailed cash flows into perpetuity, a long-term average growth rate has been 
used. The long-term growth rates applied for the regions are 1.9% for EMEA (FY22: 1.8%), 2.2% for America (FY22: 3.4%), and 3.5% 
for APAC (FY22: 3.2%). The rates used are in line with geographical forecasts included within industry reports.

Goodwill sensitivity analysis
The results of the Group’s impairment tests are dependent upon estimates and judgements made by management, particularly in 
relation to the key assumptions described above. Sensitivity analysis to potential changes in key assumptions has therefore been 
reviewed and there are no reasonably possible changes to key assumptions that would cause the carrying amount of any CGU to 
exceed its recoverable amount.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

193

FINANCIAL STATEMENTSTotal
£m

64.8

15.5

(1.1)
0.3

79.5

36.4

(8.4)

0.1
1.6

109.2

0.1

–

–
–

0.1

–

(0.1)

–
–

–

0.1

32.2

–

–

–
–

0.1

–

–

(0.1)
–

–

–

–

9.5

0.2

(1.1)
0.4

41.2

13.6

0.6

(8.4)
0.9

47.9

61.3

38.3

13. Property, plant and equipment

Freehold 
property and 
improvements
£m

Leasehold 
improvements
£m

Plant and 
machinery
£m

Office 
equipment
£m

Motor vehicles
£m

Cost

At 1 April 2021

Additions

Disposals
Exchange

At 31 March 2022

Additions

Disposals

Reclassifications from intangible fixed assets
Exchange

At 31 March 2023

Accumulated depreciation and impairment

At 1 April 2021

Charge for the year

Impairment

Eliminated on disposal
Exchange

At 31 March 2022

Charge for the year

Impairment

Eliminated on disposal
Exchange

At 31 March 2023

Net book value

At 31 March 2023

At 31 March 2022

6.8

–

(0.5)
0.2

6.5

1.0

–

–
0.5

8.0

0.7

0.1

–

(0.5)
0.1

0.4

0.3

–

–
(0.1)

0.6

47.6

12.8

(0.5)
0.1

60.0

19.9

(5.0)

0.1
1.3

76.3

24.9

7.0

0.2

(0.5)
0.3

31.9

10.3

0.5

(5.0)
1.0

38.7

4.2

0.4

–
–

4.6

12.7

(0.9)

–
(0.2)

16.2

2.3

0.9

–

–
–

3.2

1.0

–

(0.9)
0.1

3.4

7.4

6.1

37.6

28.1

12.8

1.4

6.1

2.3

(0.1)
–

8.3

2.8

(2.4)

–
–

8.7

4.2

1.5

–

(0.1)
–

5.6

2.0

0.1

(2.4)
(0.1)

5.2

3.5

2.7

194

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued13. Property, plant and equipment continued
Set out below are the carrying amounts of right-of-use assets recognised and the movements during the year:

Cost or valuation

At 1 April 2021

Additions

Reassessments of leases1

Reclassifications from intangible fixed assets

Disposals
Exchange

At 31 March 2022

Additions2

Reassessments of leases1

Reclassifications from intangible fixed assets

Disposals
Exchange

At 31 March 2023

Depreciation and impairment

At 1 April 2021

Charge for the year

Disposals
Exchange

At 31 March 2022

Charge for the year

Impairment3

Disposals
Exchange

At 31 March 2023

Net book value

At 31 March 2023

At 31 March 2022

Right-of-use 
assets 
£m

116.8

41.9

5.9

2.2

(8.4)
1.1

159.5

66.3

5.5

0.2

(0.8)
4.7

235.4

39.4

22.5

(8.4)
0.5

54.0

32.2

3.3

–
1.8

91.3

144.1

105.5

1.   Lease reassessments relate to measurement adjustments for rent reviews and stores that have exercised lease breaks.
2.   Additions include £3.2m of direct costs (FY22: £nil) and £2.7m (FY22: £0.4m) in relation to costs of removal and restoring.
3.   During the year, impairment charge was mainly in relation to three stores in the US where footfall recovery, in their locality, was weak, and they were written down to £nil. 

Impairment of property, plant and equipment and right-of-use assets
For impairment testing purposes, the Group has determined that each retail store is a separate CGU. Each CGU is tested for 
impairment at the Balance Sheet date if any indicators of impairment have been identified.

Significant judgements, assumptions and estimates
All CGUs’ recoverable amounts are measured using value in use. At each reporting period end, detailed forecasts for the following 
five years have been used, which are based on approved annual budgets and strategic projections representing the best estimate  
of future performance. Management considers forecasting over this period to appropriately reflect the business cycle of the CGUs. 
There have been no changes to the composition of the Group’s CGUs during the periods. In determining the value in use of CGUs it  
is necessary to make a series of assumptions to estimate the present value of future cash flows. In each case, these key assumptions 
have been made by management reflecting past experience and are consistent with relevant external sources of information.

Operating cash flows
The main assumptions within forecast operating cash flow include the achievement of future growth in the retail channel, sales 
prices and volumes, raw material input costs, the cost structure of each CGU, the impact of non-UK currency rates upon selling price 
and cost relationships and the levels of maintenance capital expenditure required to support each sales channel. 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

195

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS13. Property, plant and equipment continued
Pre-tax risk adjusted discount rates
This rate reflects the specific risks relating to each segment and considers the countries and regions they operate in. This has been 
considered and for the Group has been calculated to be approximately 10% (FY22: 9%). Pre-tax risk adjusted discount rates are 
derived from risk-free rates based upon long-term government bonds in the territories and averaged for the Group.

Sensitivity analysis
The results of the Group’s impairment tests are dependent upon estimates and judgements made by management, particularly in relation 
to the key assumptions of the Group. The cash flow projections include assumptions on store performance throughout the remaining 
contractual lease term. In particular, the retail revenue recovery profile in the budget for FY24 represents sources of significant estimation 
uncertainty. The projections and sensitivity analysis for future years are consistent with the long term forecast approved by the Board. We 
have concluded no material reasonable possible changes in assumptions will result in an impairment and therefore no sensitivity 
analysis has been disclosed.

14. Inventories

Raw materials
Finished goods

Inventories net of provisions

Inventory provision

Inventory written off to Consolidated Statement of Profit or Loss

FY23 
£m

2.3
255.5

257.8

FY23 
£m

2.7

0.8

The cost of inventories recognised as an expense and included in cost of sales amounted to £348.8m (FY22: £301.1m).  
The remainder of total cost of sales of £382.2m (FY22: £329.5m) relates to freight including shipping out costs.

15. Trade and other receivables

Trade receivables
Less: allowance for expected credit losses

Trade receivables – net 
Other receivables

Prepayments

FY23 
£m

80.6
(1.8)

78.8
7.5

86.3
6.7

93.0

FY22 
£m

1.2
121.8

123.0

FY22 
£m

3.1

0.8

FY22 
£m

76.6
(0.7)

75.9
5.6

81.5
4.1

85.6

All trade and other receivables are expected to be recovered within 12 months of the year-end date. Due to the short-term nature of the 
current receivables, their carrying amount is considered to be the same as their fair value. The carrying value of trade receivables 
represents the maximum exposure to credit risk. For some trade receivables the Group may obtain security in the form of guarantees, 
insurances or letters of credit which can be called upon if the counterparty is in default under the terms. As at 31 March 2023 the 
amount of collateral held was £0.3m (FY22: £0.4m). 

As at 31 March 2023 trade receivables of £4.5m (FY22: £0.2m) were due over 90 days. trade receivables of £1.4m (FY22: £0.2m) were 
due between 60-90 days and trade receivables of £75.0m (FY22: £76.2m) were due in less than 60 days. The Group establishes a loss 
allowance that represents its estimate of potential losses in respect of trade receivables, where it is deemed that a receivable may not be 
recovered, and considers factors which may impact risk of default. Where appropriate, we have grouped these receivables with the same 
overall risk characteristics. When the receivable is deemed irrecoverable, the provision is written off against the underlying receivables. 

The Group applies the IFRS 9 simplified approach to measuring expected credit losses (bad debt provision) which uses a lifetime 
expected loss allowance for all trade receivables. 

To measure expected credit losses (bad debt provision), trade receivables have been grouped based on customer segment, 
geographical location, and the days past due. The expected loss rates are based on the historical credit losses experienced in previous 
periods. The rates are adjusted to reflect current and forward-looking information, including macro economic factors, by obtaining and 
reviewing relevant market data affecting the ability of customers to settle the receivables based on their customer segment and 
geographical location. Where objective evidence exists that a trade receivable balance may be impaired, provision is made for the 
difference between its carrying amount and the present value of the estimated cash that will be recovered. Evidence of impairment 
may include such factors as a customer entering insolvent administration proceedings.

196

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued15. Trade and other receivables continued
As at 31 March 2023 trade receivables were carried net of expected credit losses (bad debt provision) of £1.8m (FY22: £0.7m). The 
individually impaired receivables relate mainly to accounts which are outside the normal credit terms. The ageing analysis of these 
provisions against trade receivables is as follows:

Up to 60 days

60 to 90 days
Over 90 days

At 1 April
Change in provision for expected credit losses

At 31 March

Debtor days1

1.  Trade debtor days higher mainly due to EMEA.

The carrying amount of the Group’s trade and other receivables is denominated in the following currencies:

UK Sterling

Euro

US Dollar

Japanese Yen
Other currencies

16. Cash and cash equivalents

Cash and cash equivalents

17. Trade and other payables

Trade payables

Taxes and social security costs
Other payables

Accruals2

FY23 
£m

0.4

0.1
1.3

1.8

FY23 
£m

0.7
1.1

1.8

52

FY23 
£m

4.1

28.0

43.7

1.5
1.5

78.8

FY22 
£m

0.2

0.1
0.4

0.7

FY22 
£m

1.3
(0.6)

0.7

42

FY22 
£m

7.4

15.1

45.5

3.0
4.9

75.9

FY23 
£m

157.5

FY22 
£m

228.0

FY231
£m

64.2

10.2
5.6

80.0
47.7

127.7

FY221
£m

52.4

6.9
5.5

64.8
69.1

133.9

1.   Bank interest of £6.0m (FY22: £0.8m) was previously included within trade and other payables, but is now separately disclosed within borrowings.
2.   Included within accruals is the refund ability of £4.5m (FY22: £4.4m) and deferred income of £1.8m (FY22: £1.4m). The balance of £41.4m (FY22: £63.3m) consists of 

accruals for royalties, goods received not invoiced and other accruals.

All trade and other payables are expected to be settled within 12 months of the year-end date. Due to the short-term nature of the 
current payables, their carrying amount is considered to be the same as their fair value. At 31 March 2023, other payables included 
£5.6m (FY22: £4.4m) in relation to employment related payables, mainly the holiday pay accrual.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

197

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS18. Borrowings

Current

Bank interest1
Lease liabilities (note 28)

Total current 

Non-current

Bank loans (including unamortised fees)
Lease liabilities (note 28)

Total non-current

Total borrowings2

Split of above (excluding lease liabilities):

Non-current bank loans
Add back unamortised fees

Total gross bank borrowings

FY23 
£m

6.0
28.1

34.1

FY22 
£m

0.8
19.8

20.6

293.4
124.3

417.7

280.9
93.1

374.0

451.8

394.6

293.4
3.4

296.8

280.9
4.7

285.6

1.  Bank interest was previously included within trade and other payables of £6.0m (FY22: £0.8m), but is now separately disclosed within borrowings.
2.  From total borrowings, only bank loans (excluding unamortised bank fees) and lease liabilities are included in debt for bank loan covenant calculation purposes.

On 29 January 2021, the Group entered into a New Facilities Agreement, comprising a new Term Loan B facility of €337.5m 
(equivalent to £300.0m at that date) and a new multi-currency revolving credit facility of £200.0m. These facilities have a maturity 
date of 2 February 2026. Under the ancillary facility a total of £3.7m (FY22: £6.0m) has been utilised primarily related to landlord 
bank guarantees. 

The Group value of debt as at 31 March 2023 (excluding unamortised fees and accrued interest) of £296.8m (FY22: 285.6m) is £3.2m 
(FY22: £14.4m) lower than the amount borrowed on 29 January 2021 due to GBP Euro exchange rate movement.

The Group’s total gross borrowings (excluding lease liabilities) is denominated in the following currencies:

Euro Term Loan B1

Total borrowings

1.  Euro denominated amount €337.5m (FY22: €337.5m).

Loan repayments will occur as follows:

Year to 31 March

2026 (2 February 2026) (€337.5m)

Total

FY23 
£m

296.8

296.8

FY22 
£m

285.6

285.6

Term Loan B (Euro)  
£m

296.8

296.8

Interest on the Euro Term Loan B is charged with a variable margin depending on the Group leverage over floating EURIBOR.  
The weighted total interest rate for this instrument in the year was 3.57% (FY22: 2.75%). 

198

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued18. Borrowings continued
Implementation of alternative benchmark interest rates
Following the cessation of several ‘Inter Bank Offer Rates’ (IBORs) the Group has continued to transition to using alternative 
benchmark interest rates where appropriate, with the overall impact assessed as being immaterial.

The Group’s existing £200m multi-currency revolving credit facility was transitioned to allow the continued drawing of GBP and  
JPY as currencies fixing against Risk Free Rates (SONIA and TONIA respectively) from LIBOR.

The Group’s €337.5m Euro Term Loan B currently fixes against floating EURIBOR where, following a methodology reform of this 
benchmark by the European Money Markets Institute (EMMI) in 2019, no indication has been given that it is likely to cease in the near 
future. The Group assesses there to be no other material impact as part of the reform and has no interest rate hedge accounting 
relationships as at 31 March 2023.

Bank loans

Revolving credit facility utilisation

Guarantees
Exchange hedging contracts

Total utilised facility
Available facility (unutilised)

Total revolving facility

Interest rate charged on unutilised facility

FY23 
£m

FY22 
£m

3.7
–

3.7
196.3

200.0

%

0.83

3.2
2.8

6.0
194.0

200.0

%

0.88

The bank loans are secured by a fixed and floating charge over all assets of the Group. 

On 29 January 2021, the Group entered into a £200.0m multi-currency revolving credit facility available until 2 February 2026. 

Fair value measurement
The fair value of the items classified as loans and borrowings is shown above. The book and fair values of borrowings are deemed  
to be materially equal.

Movements in bank loans (excluding the accrual and payment of interest) were as follows:

Euro Term Loan B

Total borrowings

Euro Term Loan B

Total borrowings

Cash flows

1 April 2022
£m

New loans
£m

Repayment  
of capital
£m

Exchange 
movement
£m

285.6

285.6

–

–

–

–

11.2

11.2

Cash flows

1 April 2021
£m

New loans
£m

Repayment  
of capital
£m

Exchange 
movement
£m

287.5

287.5

–

–

–

–

(1.9)

(1.9)

31 March 
2023
£m

296.8

296.8

31 March  
2022
£m

285.6

285.6

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

199

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS19. Provisions

At 1 April 2021

Arising during the year
Amounts utilised

At 31 March 2022

Arising during the year
Amounts utilised

At 31 March 2023

Other 
provisions 
£m

Property 
provisions 
£m

0.1

–
(0.1)

–

–
–

–

1.5

0.4
–

1.9

2.7
(0.2)

4.4

Total 
£m

1.6

0.4
(0.1)

1.9

2.7
(0.2)

4.4

The property provisions relate to the estimated repair and restatement costs for retail stores at the end of the lease. The provisions 
are not discounted for the time value of money as this is not considered materially different from the current cost. 

20. Derivative assets and liabilities

Assets
Exchange forward contracts – current

Liabilities

Exchange forward contracts – current

FY23 
£m

FY22 
£m

0.5

0.9

(1.3)

(0.5)

Derivative financial instruments consist of exchange forward contracts, which are categorised within Level 2 (refer to note 2.17 for 
details on fair value hierarchy categorisation). The full fair value of a derivative which is designated in a hedge accounting relationship 
is classified as a non–current asset or liability if the remaining maturity of the hedged item is more than 12 months and as a current 
asset or liability if the maturity of the hedged item is less than 12 months.

Exchange forward derivatives 
The Group takes a holistic approach to exchange risk, viewing exposures on Group wide net cash flow basis, seeking to maximise 
natural offsets wherever possible. Where considered material the Group manages its exposure to variability in GBP from foreign 
exchange by hedging highly probable future cash flows arising in other currencies. The Group’s principal net currency exposures  
are to EUR, CAD, JPY and USD.

The Group adopts a rolling, layered approach to hedging its operating cash flows using forward exchange contracts on an 18-month 
horizon. Other derivative contracts and longer tenors may be used provided these are approved by the Board and Audit and Risk 
Committee. The Group also utilises foreign exchange derivatives in a hedging relationship to partially hedge the foreign exchange 
translation risk (into functional GBP) on its term loan.

The following table represents the nominal amounts of derivatives in a continued hedge relationship as at each Balance Sheet date:

Average exchange rate

Cash flow hedges: sell GBP buy EUR

Cash flow hedges: sell EUR buy GBP

Nominal amounts

Cash flow hedges: sell GBP buy EUR

Less than a year

More than a year but less than two years

Cash flow hedges: sell EUR buy GBP

Less than a year

More than a year but less than two years

200

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

FY23

FY22

1.1225

1.1381

1.1716

1.1779

€m

136.3

–

£m

76.0

5.8

€m

107.8

–

£m

39.2

8.2

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued21. Investments

Investments

FY23 
£m

1.0

FY22 
£m

–

On 16 January 2023 the Group made an investment of £1.0m in the share capital of Generation Phoenix Ltd (GP), a company that 
specialises in producing a sustainable alternative to leather, and produces a recycled leather product using part processed offcuts. 
The investment is equivalent to 3.35% of the share capital of GP and will help to drive our sustainability strategy. As a minority 
equity investment, it is held at fair value through Other Comprehensive Income. The election to account for the instrument at fair 
value through Other Comprehensive Income was made so that any changes in value do not impact profit or loss.

22. Financial instruments
IFRS 13 requires the classification of financial instruments measured at fair value to be determined by reference to the source of 
inputs used to derive fair value. 

The fair values of all financial instruments, except for leases, in both years are materially equal to their carrying values. All financial 
instruments are measured at amortised cost with the exception of derivatives, cash amounts held within Money Market Funds, and 
investments in equity instruments which are measured at fair value. Derivatives and Money Market Funds are classified as Level 2 
under the fair value hierarchy, and investments in equity instruments as Level 3, which is consistent with that defined in note 2.17 of 
the Consolidated Financial Statements for the year ended 31 March 2023. 

Assets as per Balance Sheet

Investments

Trade and other receivables excluding prepayments and accrued income

Derivative financial assets – Current
Cash and cash equivalents

31 March 2023

Assets at 
amortised 
cost 
£m

Fair value  
through other 
comprehensive 
income 
£m

Fair value 
through profit 
or loss 
£m

–

86.3

–
86.3

172.6

1.0

–

0.5
–

1.5

–

–

–
71.21

71.2

1.  In FY23 a proportion of our cash was invested in high-quality overnight money market funds to mitigate concentration and counterparty risk. 

Liabilities as per Balance Sheet

Bank debt

Bank interest – Current

Lease liabilities – Current 

Lease liabilities – Non-current

Derivative financial instruments – Current
Trade and other payables excluding non-financial liabilities

Assets as per Balance Sheet

Trade and other receivables excluding prepayments and accrued income

Derivative financial instruments – Current
Cash and cash equivalents

Liabilities at 
amortised 
cost
£m

Fair value 
through other 
comprehensive 
income 
£m

Fair value 
through profit 
or loss 
£m

293.4

6.0

28.1

124.3

–
115.7

567.5

–

–

–

–

1.3
–

1.3

–

–

–

–

–
–

–

31 March 2022

Fair value 
through other 
comprehensive 
income 
£m

Assets at 
amortised cost 
£m

81.5

–
228.0

309.5

–

0.9
–

0.9

Total 
£m

1.0

86.3

0.5
157.5

245.3

Total 
£m

293.4

6.0

28.1

124.3

1.3
115.7

568.8

Total 
£m

81.5

0.9
228.0

310.4

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

201

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS22. Financial instruments continued

Liabilities as per Balance Sheet

Bank debt2

Bank interest – Current1

Lease liabilities – Current 

Lease liabilities – Non-current

Derivative financial instruments – Current
Trade and other payables excluding non-financial liabilities1,3

Liabilities at 
amortised cost
£m

Fair value 
through other 
comprehensive 
income 
£m

280.9

0.8

19.8

93.1

–
125.6

520.2

–

–

–

–

0.5
–

0.5

Total 
£m

280.9

0.8

19.8

93.1

0.5
125.6

520.7

1.  Bank interest was previously included within trade and other payables of £6.0m (FY22: £0.8m), but is now separately disclosed within borrowings.
2.  Bank debt as at 31 March 2022 was previously presented gross of unamortised bank fees of £4.7m. This has been represented to show it’s carrying amount.
3.  Trade and other paybles excluding non-financial liabilities was previously reported at 31 March 2022 as £64.8m.

Group financial risk factors
The Group’s activities expose it to a wide variety of financial risks including liquidity, credit and market risk (including exchange and 
interest rate risks). The Group’s Treasury policies seek to manage residual financial risk to within the Board agreed tolerance in a 
cost-effective manner and taking advantage of natural offsets that exist or can be created through its operating activities. Where 
appropriate the Group uses derivative financial instruments to hedge certain risk exposures (for example to reduce the impacts of 
exchange volatility). 

Risk management is carried out by a central Treasury department under policies approved by the Board of Directors and the Audit 
and Risk Committee. Group Finance and Treasury identifies, evaluates and hedges financial risks in close cooperation with the 
Group’s Regional operating units. The Board agrees written principles for overall risk management as well as written policies 
covering specific areas such as exchange risk, interest rate risk, credit risk and liquidity risk. These policies cover the allowable use 
of selective derivative financial instruments and investment management process for excess liquidity.

Liquidity risk
Cash flow forecasting is regularly performed in the operating entities of the Group and aggregated by Group Treasury. Treasury 
monitors rolling forecasts of the Group’s liquidity requirements to ensure that it has sufficient cash to meet operational needs while 
maintaining sufficient headroom in its undrawn committed borrowing facilities at all times so that the Group does not breach borrowing 
limits or covenants. Surplus cash held by operating entities over and above balances required for working capital are transferred to 
Group Treasury to be managed centrally. Treasury policy is to invest surplus cash in high quality, short-term, interest-bearing 
instruments including current accounts, term deposit and low volatility money market funds. 

The Group continually reviews any medium to long-term financing requirements to ensure cost effective access to funding is 
available if and when it is needed (including any debt refinancing).

The table below sets out the contractual maturities (representing undiscounted contractual cash flows) of loans, borrowings and 
other financial liabilities:

At 31 March 2023

Up to  

Between  

Between  

3 months
£m

3 & 12 months
£m

1 & 5 years
£m

More than  
5 years
£m

–
 8.6 

 8.6 

 25.9 

 1.1 
–

 296.8 
 37.7 

 334.5 

 99.3 

–
–

–
–

–

 39.9 

–
–

Total
£m

 296.8 
 54.1 

 350.9 

173.5

 1.3 
115.7

 35.6 

 433.8 

 39.9 

641.4

Bank loans – Principal
Bank loans – Interest

Total bank loans

Lease liability

Derivative financial instruments
Trade and other payables excluding non-financial liabilities 

–
 7.8 

 7.8 

 8.4 

 0.2 
115.7

132.1

202

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued22. Financial instruments continued
Liquidity risk continued

At 31 March 2022

Up to  
3 months
£m

Between  
3 & 12 months
£m

Between  
1 & 5 years
£m

More than  
5 years
£m

Bank loans – Principal
Bank loans – Interest2

Total bank loans

Lease liability1

Derivative financial instruments
Trade and other payables excluding non-financial liabilities2,3

–
2.7

2.7

6.4

–
125.6

134.7

–
5.9

5.9

18.5

–
–

24.4

285.6
22.4

308.0

73.2

0.5
–

381.7

Total
£m

285.6
31.0

316.6

127.3

0.5
125.6

–
–

–

29.2

–
–

29.2

570.0

1.   Lease liability maturity analysis as at 31 March 2022 was presented using discounted contractual cash flows. This analysis has been re-presented to show 

undiscounted cash flows.

2.  Bank interest was previously included within trade and other payables of £6.0m (FY22: £0.8m), but is now separately disclosed within interest.
3.  Trade and other paybles excluding non-financial liabilities was previously reported at 31 March 2022 as £64.8m.

Credit risk
Credit risk is managed on a Group basis, except for credit risk relating to accounts receivable balances. Each local entity is 
responsible for managing and analysing the credit risk of their new customers before standard payment and delivery terms and 
conditions are offered. Credit risk arises from cash and cash equivalents, derivative financial instruments, as well as credit exposures 
to wholesale and retail customers, including outstanding receivables and committed transactions. Cash investments and derivative 
transactions are only executed with financial institutions who hold an investment grade rating with at least one of Moody’s, Standard 
& Poor’s or Fitch rating agencies. The Group’s Treasury policy defines strict limits that do not allow concentration of risk with 
individual counterparties. 

For wholesale customers, risk control assesses the credit quality of the customer, taking into account its financial position, past 
experience and other factors. Individual risk limits are regularly monitored. Sales to wholesale customers are settled primarily by 
bank transfer and retail customers are settled in cash or by major debit/credit cards. The Group has no significant concentration  
of credit risk as exposure is spread over a large number of customers. 

Market risk 
Non-UK exchange risk
The Group operates internationally and is exposed to non-UK exchange risk arising from the various currency exposures, primarily with 
respect to the US Dollar, Euro, Canadian Dollar and Japanese Yen. Non-UK exchange risk arises from future commercial transactions, 
recognised assets and liabilities and net investments in overseas operations. Non-UK exchange risk arises when future commercial 
transactions or recognised assets and liabilities are denominated in a currency that is not the entity’s functional currency.

The Group purchases the vast majority of its inventory from factories in Asia which are paid in US Dollars. Approximately 80% of 
Group EBITDA is earned in currencies other than Pounds Sterling. In addition, the Group has other currency denominated debt and 
investments in overseas operations whose net assets are exposed to non-UK currency translation risk upon consolidation. 

Cash flow and fair value interest rate risk
The Group’s interest rate risk arises from its floating rate bank debt and cash amounts held. Borrowings issued at fixed rates expose 
the Group to fair value interest rate risk. The Group’s bank debt borrowings are denominated in Euros, and incur interest at variable 
rates subject to a EURIBOR floor. 

At 31 March 2023 if interest rates on bank borrowings had been 50 basis points higher or lower with all other variables held 
constant, the calculated pre-tax profit for the year would change by £1.5m (FY22: £1.5m).

Capital risk
The Group manages its capital to ensure that entities in the Group will be able to continue as going concerns while maximising the 
return to stakeholders through the optimisation of the debt and equity balances. The Group’s overall strategy remains consistent 
with that from the past few years.

The capital structure of the Group consists of net debt disclosed in note 18 and equity attributable to equity holders of the parent, 
comprising issued share capital, reserves and retained earnings as disclosed in notes 24 and 25 and the Consolidated Statement of 
Changes in Equity. The Group’s Board of Directors reviews the capital structure on an annual basis. The Group is not subject to any 
externally imposed capital requirement.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

203

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS22. Financial instruments continued
Non-UK currency risk
The Group has analysed the impact of a movement in exchange rate of the major non-GBP currencies on its EBITDA1 (all other 
exchange rates remaining unchanged) as follows:

10% appreciation of currency 

US Dollar

Euro

Yen

FY23 
£m

2.8

19.9

4.1

FY22 
£m

2.4

18.0

3.6

1.   Alternative Performance Measure (APM) as defined in the Glossary on pages 227 and 228.

Note the US Dollar movement is lower as the Group earns US Dollars from its US business and purchases substantially all inventory 
in US Dollar, which provides a degree of natural offset. In addition to the above, a 10% appreciation on the Euro rate would impact 
annualised bank loan interest by £0.9m (FY22: £0.9m) under the terms of the new loan agreement.

23. Deferred taxation
The analysis of deferred tax assets and liabilities is as follows: 

Non-current

Assets
Liabilities

The gross movement on the deferred income tax is as follows:

Credit for the year in the Statement of Comprehensive Income

FY23 
£m

11.8
(1.8)

10.0

FY23 
£m

0.4

FY22 
£m

9.6
–

9.6

FY22 
£m

2.2

The deferred tax asset provided in the financial statements is supported by budgets and trading forecasts and relates to the 
following temporary differences:

•  accelerated capital allowances are the differences between the net book value of fixed assets and their tax base;

•  other temporary differences are the other differences between the carrying amount of an asset/liability and its tax base that 

eventually will reverse; 

•  unrealised profits in intra-group transactions and expenses;

•  trade losses expected to be utilised in future years; and

•  deferred tax on share-based payments in relation to the expected future tax deduction on the exercise of granted share options 

spread over the vesting period.

The movement in deferred income tax assets and liabilities during the year is as follows:

Accelerated 
capital 
allowances
£m

Unrealised 
intra-group 
profits
£m

Other 
temporary 
differences
£m

Tax losses
£m

Share-based 
payments
£m

At 1 April 2021

Statement of Profit or Loss (charge)/credit

Credited directly to equity
Exchange

At 31 March 2022

Statement of Profit or Loss (charge)/credit

Credited directly to equity
Exchange

At 31 March 2023

(0.6)

(1.4)

–
–

(2.0)

(0.4)

–
–

(2.4)

2.5

0.7

–
–

3.2

0.8

–
–

4.0

5.3

2.0

–
(0.2)

7.1

0.1

0.2
–

7.4

0.2

0.4

–
–

0.6

0.1

–
–

0.7

204

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Total
£m

7.4

2.4

–
(0.2)

9.6

0.2

0.2
–

–

0.7

–
–

0.7

(0.4)

–
–

0.3

10.0

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued23. Deferred taxation continued
Deferred taxation not provided in the financial statements:

Tax losses1

FY23 
£m

9.1

FY22 
£m

9.3

1.   This is the tax effected amount of losses that have not been provided for in the financial statements, calculated using the rate at which the losses would be expected 

to be used. There is £36.6m (FY22: £37.0m) of gross tax losses that have not been provided for because they are either capital losses (which can only be used 
against future capital gains which we are not forecasting) or they are non-trade loan relationship losses which can only be used in the same company (and are in 
companies we don’t expect to have any loan relationship profits).

The deferred tax assets and liabilities have been measured at the corporation tax rate expected to apply to the reversal of the timing 
difference. There are no material temporary differences associated with investments in subsidiaries, branches and associates and 
interests in joint arrangements, for which deferred tax liabilities have not been recognised.

24. Share capital

Authorised, called up and fully paid

Ordinary shares of £0.01 each

FY23
No.

FY23
£

FY22
No.

FY22
£

1,000,793,898

10,007,939

1,000,222,700

10,002,227

The movements in the ordinary share capital during the year ended 31 March 2023 and 31 March 2022 were as follows:

At 1 April 2022
Shares Issued

At 31 March 2023

FY23
Shares no.

FY23
Share capital £m

FY22
Shares no.

FY22
Share capital £m

1,000,222,700
571,198

1,000,793,898

10.0
–

10.0

1,000,000,100
222,600

1,000,222,700

10.0
–

10.0

The cost of shares purchased by the SIP Trusts is offset against the profit and loss account, as the amounts paid reduce the profits 
available for distribution by the Company. 

25. Reserves
The following describes the nature and purpose of each reserve within equity:

Reserve

Share capital

Hedging reserve

Capital reserve — own shares

Capital redemption reserve

Merger reserve 

Description and purpose

Nominal value of subscribed shares.

Represents the movements in fair value on designated hedging instruments.

This reserve relates to shares held by SIP Trusts as ‘treasury shares’. The shares held  
by the SIP Trusts were issued directly to the Trusts in order to satisfy outstanding 
employee share options and potential awards under the employee share incentive 
schemes. The Company issued shares directly to the Trusts of 93,228 during the year 
and held 110,153 as at 31 March 2023 (31 March 2022: 16,925).

A non-distributable reserve into which amounts are transferred following the 
redemption or purchase of own shares. The reserve was created in order to ensure 
sufficient distributable reserves were available for the purpose of redeeming preference 
shares in the prior years. 

The difference between the nominal value of shares acquired by Dr. Martens plc (the 
Parent Company) in the share for share exchange with Doc Topco Limited and the 
nominal value of shares issued to acquire them on 11 December 2020.

Non-UK currency translation reserve

Includes translation gains or losses on translation of non-UK subsidiaries’ financial 
statements from the functional currencies to the presentational currency.

Retained earnings

Retained earnings represent the profits of the Group made in current and preceding 
years, net of distributions and equity-settled share-based awards. Included in retained 
earnings are distributable reserves.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

205

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS26. Share-based payments
The Group has two SIP Trusts, Dr. Martens plc UK Share Incentive Plan Trust (‘SIP-UK’) and Dr. Martens plc International Share 
Incentive Plan Trust (‘SIP-International’), for the purpose of facilitating the holding of shares in Dr. Martens plc for the benefit of 
employees of the Group. The assets of the employee share trusts are held by the separate trusts, of which the Directors consider 
that Dr. Martens plc has control for accounting purposes. 

On 29 January 2021, the Group approved the award of shares to Executive Directors and other senior executives under a new 
equity-settled Long Term Incentive Plan (LTIP) – the Performance Share Plan (PSP) for the Executive Directors and Global 
Leadership Team (GLT) and the Restricted Share Plan (RSP) for GLT direct reports. The LTIP is a discretionary share plan under 
which awards are approved and granted at the discretion of the Remuneration Committee.

Long Term Incentive Plan – Performance Share Plan (PSP)
Conditional awards of share options are granted to the Executive Directors and other senior managers. These awards are currently 
capable of vesting over the period from 9 February 2021 to the 2024 results announcement, subject to the achievement of 
performance conditions and continued service. The performance conditions attached to the awards are Total Shareholder Return 
(TSR), which is a market-based performance condition, and EPS growth, which is a non-market-based performance condition. The fair 
value of the TSR element of the performance conditions is calculated and fixed at the date of grant using a Stochastic options pricing 
model. The fair value of the EPS element of the performance conditions is reviewed at each balance sheet date and adjusted through 
the number of options expected to vest. The awards will generally vest to participants at the end of the vesting period subject to good 
and bad leaver provisions. There are no cash settlement alternatives and the Group accounts for the PSP as an equity-settled plan.

Long Term Incentive Plan – Restricted Share Plan (RSP)
Service conditional awards of shares under the RSP are granted to certain employees of the Group. The awards vest in two tranches, 
with 50% vesting 18 months following the grant date and 50% vesting 36 months following the grant date. The members of the RSP 
must be employed by the Group at the end of the vesting or service period for each tranche. If employees leave the Group after the 
first 50% tranche has vested but before the second 50% tranche is due to vest, the second tranche will lapse. The fair value of 
restricted awards is the face value of the awards at the date of grant. There are no cash settlement alternatives. The Group accounts 
for the restricted shares as an equity-settled plan. Full details on the performance conditions for all the LTIP awards can be found in 
the Remuneration report on pages 139 to 150 of the Annual Report.

Global Bonus Scheme Share Plan
The Remuneration Committee of the Group has determined that a proportion of the annual Executive Bonus Scheme will be settled 
in the form of purchased Parent Company shares. There were no cancellations or modifications to the awards during the year.

Included in staff costs and accruals is £0.4m (FY22: £1.9m) in relation to expenses arising from cash-settled share-based payments.

Movements during the year
The following table illustrates the number and weighted average exercise prices (WAEP) of, and movements in, share options during 
the year:

Outstanding at the beginning of the year

Granted

Vested
Forfeited

FY23

LTIP

No.

FY22

LTIP

WAEP

No.

WAEP

3,187,899

4,593,183

(402,860)
(589,640)

–

2,665,803

£0.00

–
–

1,017,177

–
(495,081)

–

£0.00

–
–

Outstanding at the end of the year

6,788,582

£0.00

3,187,899

£0.00

Weighted average contractual life remaining (years)

1.8

£0.00

1.9

£0.00

Outstanding at the beginning of the year

Granted

Vested
Forfeited

Outstanding at the end of the year

Weighted average contractual life remaining (years)

206

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

FY23

FY22

Free share award

Free share award

No.

WAEP

–

–

–
–

–

–

–

–

–
–

–

–

No.

–

222,600

(205,675)
(16,925)

–

–

WAEP

–

£0.00

£0.00
–

–

–

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued26. Share-based payments continued
Fair value measurement
The following table lists the inputs to the models used for the three plans for the year ended 31 March 2023:

Date of grant

Share price (pence)

Fair value at grant date (pence)

Exercise price (pence)

Dividend yield (%)

Expected volatility (%)

Risk-free interest rate (%)

Expected life (years)

Model used

Date of grant

Share price (pence)

Fair value at grant date (pence)

Exercise price (pence)

Dividend yield (%)

Expected volatility (%)

Risk-free interest rate (%)

Expected life (years)

Model used

FY23

LTIP

PSP

RSP

RSP

15/06/2022 15/06/2022 08/12/2022

238

205

0

Nil

50.71%

2.23%

3 years

238

238

0

Nil

0

0

193

193

0

Nil

0

0

3 years

2.7 years

Monte Carlo

N/A

N/A

FY22

LTIP

PSP

PSP

PSP

RSP

RSP

06/07/2021

15/12/2021

15/12/2021

06/07/2021

15/12/2021

451

371

0

Nil

388

301

0

Nil

54.11%

0.10%

54.57%

0.42%

388

388

0

Nil

0.00%

0.00%

453

453

0

Nil

0.00%

0.00%

388

388

0

Nil

0.00%

0.00%

2.7 years

2.3 years

2.3 years

2.7 years

2.3 years

Monte Carlo

Monte Carlo

N/A

N/A

N/A

Volatility
For determining expected volatility, IFRS 2 requires the fair value to take into account historical volatility over the expected term.  
As Dr. Martens plc has been listed for less than the expected life of the plans it does not have sufficient information on historical 
volatility, and it computes volatility for the longest period for which trading activity is available. It also considered the historical 
volatility of similar entities in the same industry for the equivalent period of their listed share price history.

Free share award
On 8 October 2021, the Group granted free shares to all employees, offering all employees awards of ordinary shares in the 
Company at an exercise price of £nil. All awards vested on 31 March 2022 and the vesting of these share awards was dependent  
on continued employment from the grant date.

Share Incentive Plan (SIP)
In September 2022 the Company launched the purchase and matching element of the HMRC Approved Share Incentive Plan (SIP) 
known as Buy As You Earn. Employees can elect to make a monthly contribution from their monthly gross pay to purchase shares  
in Dr. Martens plc (‘Partnership shares’). For each Partnership share acquired, the Company will award a ‘Matching’ share. Matching 
shares are subject to a three year forfeiture period. 

The Matching shares fall within the scope of IFRS 2 and are classed as equity-settled share-based payments with a three year 
forfeiture period, due to the condition of continued service for three years from the allocation date. A new invitation to join the plan 
will be rolled out each year effective 1 September. On 11 November 2022, the first Matching shares were allocated to employees who 
had opted into the plan and purchased Partnership shares. These awards are subject to a three year forfeiture period after the date 
of purchase of the corresponding Partnership shares. There are no cash settlement alternatives and the Group accounts for the SIP 
as it is an equity-settled plan.

Included in staff costs is £0.5m (FY22: £5.2m) in relation to expenses arising from equity-settled share-based payments. Within this 
amount is £nil (FY22: £0.8m) in relation to the free share award and £nil (FY22: £nil) in relation to the SIP.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

207

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS26. Share-based payments continued
The following table illustrates the number and weighted average exercise prices (WAEP) of, and movements in, share options during 
the year:

Outstanding at the beginning of the year

Granted

Vested
Forfeited

Outstanding at the end of the year

Weighted average contractual life remaining (years)

Fair value measurement
The following table lists the inputs to the model used for the plans for the year ended 31 March 2023:

Date of grant

Share price (pence)

Fair value at grant date (pence)

Exercise price (pence)

Dividend yield (%)

Expected volatility (%)

Risk-free interest rate

Expected life (years)

Model used

FY23

SIP

No.

–

93,591

–
(1,273)

92,318

3 years

FY23

SIP

15/09/2022

128-290

128-290

–

–

–

–

3

N/A

Employer payroll taxes
Employer payroll taxes are being accrued, where applicable, at local rate, which management expects to be the prevailing rate when 
the awards are exercised, based on the share price at the reporting date. The total employer payroll taxes for the year relating to all 
the awards was £nil (FY22: £0.7m).

27. Financial commitments
Total future minimum lease payments (not discounted) under non-cancellable lease rentals are payable as follows:

Not later than one year

Later than one year and not later than five years
Later than five years

FY23 
£m

34.3

99.3
39.9

173.5

FY22 
£m

24.9

73.2
29.2

127.3

The financial commitments note has been prepared on the basis that the lease commitments will continue to the end of the lease term 
and these lease breaks will not be exercised. The future minimum lease payments to the lease break are £102.8m (FY22: £84.6m).

Guarantees exist in the form of a duty deferment guarantee to HMRC for a maximum amount of £nil (FY22: £0.9m), rent guarantees 
to various landlords of £3.5m (FY22: £2.1m) and other guarantees of £0.2m (FY22: £0.2m). These guarantees which aggregate to 
£3.7m (FY22: £3.2m) are guaranteed under the revolving credit facility.

Capital expenditure contracted for at the end of the reporting period but not recognised as liabilities is as follows:

Property, plant and equipment

208

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

FY23
£m

1.7

1.7

FY22
£m

0.8

0.8

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued27. Financial commitments continued
The Group has additional commitments relating to leases where the Group has entered into an obligation but does not yet have 
control of the underlying asset. The future lease payments to which the Group is committed, over the expected lease term, but  
are not recorded on the Group’s Balance Sheet are as follows:

Not later than one year

Later than one year and not later than five years
Later than five years

FY23 
£m

1.1

6.6
8.5

16.2

28. Leases
Set out below are the carrying amounts of lease liabilities (included under interest-bearing loans and borrowings) and the 
movements during the year: 

At 1 April 

Additions1 

Reassessments

Disposals

Interest expense (note 8)

Lease capital and interest repayments
Exchange

At 31 March 

Current (note 18)

Non-current (note 18)

1.   Additions comprises ROU additions less working capital £5.9m.

The following amounts were recognised in the Statement of Profit or Loss:

Depreciation expense of right-of-use assets

Interest expense on lease liabilities (note 8)

Expenses relating to short-term leases
Variable lease payments

Total operating expenses recognised in profit

Total amount recognised in profit

FY23 
£m

112.9

60.6

5.5

(0.8)

4.8

(33.9)
3.3

152.4

28.1

124.3

FY23
£m

32.2

4.8

1.3
2.8

4.1

41.1

FY22 
£m

0.4

2.0
1.9

4.3

FY22 
£m

84.8

41.9

5.9

–

3.5

(24.0)
0.8

112.9

19.8

93.1

FY22
£m

22.5

3.5

1.3
2.0

3.3

29.3

Variable lease payments on sales
Some leases of retail stores contain variable lease payments that are based on sales that the Group makes at the store. These 
payment terms are common in retail stores in some countries where the Group operates. Fixed and variable payments for the year 
ended 31 March 2023 were as follows: 

£000’s

Fixed 
payments

Variable 
payments

Total 
payments

Estimated annual 
impact on rent  
of a 1% increase 
in sales

Leases with lease payments based on sales

10.2

2.8

13.0

0.1

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

209

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS28. Leases continued
Turnover related rent is where the contract states the lease rent is the higher of the fixed base rent or percentage of turnover of  
the store. Unless specified otherwise in the lease, turnover rent is defined as net turnover (i.e. excluding returns), not including click 
and collect. To verify the correct rent, the landlord often requests ‘turnover certificates’ on a regular basis, e.g. monthly/quarterly/
annually. The rent is invoiced in arrears based on this calculation and accrued monthly. It is paid as invoiced depending on the lease 
terms. The fixed base element is capitalised as above and the variable element (based on turnover) is expensed to the Consolidated 
Statement of Profit or Loss.

Extension options
Some leases contain extension options exercisable by the Group up to one year before the end of the non-cancellable contract 
period. Where practicable, the Group seeks to include extension options in new leases to provide operational flexibility. The 
extension options held are exercisable only by the Group and not by the lessors. The Group will reassess and remeasure when there 
is a significant event or change in circumstances. For example, lease renewals or business decisions to exercise lease breaks. These 
are reviewed and embedded to the model by the Property Accountant as they occur.

£m

Leases with lease extension options

Lease liabilities recognised  
(discounted)

Potential future lease payments  
not included in lease liabilities  
(undiscounted)

35.3

56.6

29. Pensions
Defined contribution scheme
The Group operates a defined contribution pension scheme for its employees. The Group’s contributions to this scheme were £4.7m 
for the year ended 31 March 2023 (FY22: £6.0m) and at 31 March 2023 £0.8m (FY22: £0.8m) remained payable to the pension fund.

Defined benefit scheme
Dr Martens Airwair Group Limited and Airwair International Limited (subsidiaries of the Group) operate a pension arrangement 
called the Dr. Martens Airwair Group Pension Plan (the Plan). The Plan has a defined benefit section that provides benefits based  
on final salary and length of service on retirement, leaving service or death. The defined benefit section closed to new members on 
6 April 2002 and closed to future accrual with effect from 31 January 2006. The Plan also has a defined contribution section that 
provides money purchase benefits to some current and former employees. 

The Plan is managed by a board of Trustees appointed in part by Airwair International Limited and in part from elections by 
members of the Plan. The Trustees have responsibility for obtaining valuations of the fund, administering benefit payments and 
investing the Plan’s assets. The Trustees delegate some of these functions to their professional advisers where appropriate. 

The defined benefit section of the Plan is subject to the Statutory Funding Objective under the Pensions Act 2004. A valuation  
of the Plan is carried out at least once every three years to determine whether the Statutory Funding Objective is met. The last 
valuation was carried out at 30 June 2022 which confirmed that the Plan had sufficient assets to meet the Statutory Funding 
Objective. The next valuation is due at 30 June 2025. The Statutory Funding Objective does not currently impact on the recognition 
of the Plan in these financial statements. 

During the year, no discretionary benefits were awarded. There were no Plan amendments, settlements or curtailments during the year. 

The weighted average duration of the defined benefit obligation is approximately 13 years (FY22: 17 years). Around 50% of the 
undiscounted benefits are due to be paid beyond 17 years’ time, with the projected actuarial cash flows declining to zero in about 70 years.

Key risks
The defined benefit section of the Plan exposes Airwair International Limited to a number of risks:

•  Investment risk. The Plan holds investments in asset classes, such as equities, which have volatile market values and while these 

assets are expected to provide real returns over the long term, the short-term volatility can cause additional funding to be 
required if a deficit emerges.

•  Interest rate risk. The value of the Plan’s liabilities is assessed using market yields on high quality corporate bonds to discount the 
liabilities. As the Plan holds assets such as equities, the value of the assets and liabilities may not move in the same way. The Plan 
holds derivatives to manage a proportion of the interest rate risk.

•  Inflation risk. A significant proportion of the benefits under the Plan are linked to inflation. Although the Plan’s assets are 

expected to provide a good hedge against inflation over the long term, movements in inflation expectations over the short term 
could lead to a deficit emerging. The Plan holds some derivatives to hedge a proportion of the potential changes in the value of 
the liabilities due to changes in market inflation expectations.

•  Mortality risk. In the event that members live longer than assumed, a deficit could emerge in the Plan.

210

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued29. Pensions continued
Although the Lloyds Banking Group Pensions Trustees Limited v. Lloyds Bank PLC (and others) court judgment on 26 October 2018 
(and the subsequent court judgment on 20 November 2020) provided some clarity in respect of GMP equalisation and the 
obligations that this places on schemes, the actual impact of equalising the Plan’s GMPs remains uncertain. An approximate 
allowance equivalent to 0.8% (FY22: 0.8%) of the value of the liabilities has been made in the disclosures for the impact of GMP 
equalisation. There were no other plan amendments, curtailments or settlements during the year.

Effect of the Plan on the Company’s future cash flows
Airwair International Limited is required to agree a Schedule of Contributions with the Trustees of the Plan following a valuation, 
which must be carried out at least once every three years. Following the valuation of the Plan at 30 June 2022, a Schedule of 
Contributions was agreed under which Airwair International Limited was not required to make any contributions to the defined 
benefit section of the Plan (other than payments in respect of administrative expenses). Accordingly, Airwair International Limited 
does not expect to contribute to the defined benefit section of the Plan, although it will continue to contribute to the defined 
contribution section in line with the Schedule of Contributions. The next valuation of the Plan is due at 30 June 2025. If this reveals 
a deficit then Airwair International Limited may be required to pay contributions to the Plan to repair the deficit over time.

The amounts recognised in the Balance Sheet (under IAS 19 Employee Benefits) are determined as follows: 

Fair value of plan assets – defined benefit section

Present value of funded obligations – defined benefit section

Surplus of funded plans
Impact of asset ceiling

Net pension asset

FY23 
£m

49.5

(38.4)

11.1
(11.1)

–

FY22 
£m

68.6

(55.3)

13.3
(13.3)

–

Although the Plan has a surplus, this is not recognised on the grounds that Airwair International Limited is unlikely to derive any 
future economic benefits from the surplus. As such, an asset ceiling has been applied to the Balance Sheet, and the net surplus of 
£11.1m (FY22: £13.3m) has not been recognised on the Balance Sheet. The net surplus has been capped to £nil (FY22: £nil).

A reconciliation of the net defined benefit asset over the year is given below:

Net defined benefit asset at beginning of year

Total defined benefit charge in the Statement of Profit or Loss

Remeasurement losses in the Statement of Comprehensive Income
Employer’s contributions

Net defined benefit asset at end of the year

FY23 
£m

FY22 
£m

–

–

–
–

–

–

–

–
–

–

The amount charged to the Statement of Profit or Loss and Statement of Comprehensive Income in respect of the defined benefit 
section of the Plan was £nil (FY22: £nil). Costs in respect of the defined contribution section of the Plan, and other defined 
contribution arrangements operated by Airwair International Limited, are allowed for separately.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

211

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS29. Pensions continued
The remeasurements in respect of the defined benefit section of the Plan, to be shown in the Statement of Comprehensive Income, are 
shown below:

Losses/(gains) on defined benefit assets in excess of interest

Gains from changes to demographic assumptions

Gains from changes to financial assumptions
Change in effect of asset ceiling

Total remeasurements to be shown in other comprehensive income

The change in defined benefit scheme assets over the year was:

At 1 April 

Interest on defined benefit assets

Movement on defined benefit section assets less interest
Benefits paid from the defined benefit section

At 31 March

The change in the defined benefit scheme funded obligations over the year was:

At 1 April 

Past service cost

Interest cost on defined benefit obligation

Changes to demographic assumptions

Changes to financial assumptions
Benefits paid from the defined benefit section

At 31 March

The change in the effect of the asset ceiling over the year was as follows:

At 1 April

Net interest charge on asset ceiling
Changes in the effect of the asset ceiling excluding interest

At 31 March

FY23 
£m

18.3

(0.4)

(15.4)
(2.5)

–

FY23 
£m

68.6

1.7

(18.3)
(2.5)

49.5

FY23 
£m

55.3

–

1.4

(0.4)

(15.4)
(2.5)

38.4

FY23 
£m

13.3

0.3
(2.5)

11.1

FY22 
£m

(1.4)

–

(2.9)
4.3

–

FY22 
£m

67.8

1.3

1.4
(1.9)

68.6

FY22 
£m

59.0

–

1.1

–

(2.9)
(1.9)

55.3

FY22 
£m

8.8

0.2
4.3

13.3

212

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued29. Pensions continued
A breakdown of the assets is set out below, split between those assets that have a quoted market value in an active market and 
those that do not. The assets do not include any investment in shares of Airwair International Limited, nor any property owned or 
occupied by the Group.

Assets with a quoted market value in an active market:

Cash and other
Domestic

Assets without a quoted market value in an active market:

Equities and property

Domestic
Foreign

Fixed interest bonds
Unspecified

Index linked gilts
Domestic

Alternatives

Unspecified

Property

Unspecified

Insured annuities
Domestic

Cash and other

Domestic

Foreign
Unspecified

FY23 
£m

FY22 
£m

0.2

0.2

0.2
4.5

4.7

9.4

9.4

30.1

30.1

3.9

3.9

1.0

1.0

0.9

0.9

1.0

–
(1.7)

(0.7)

–

–

0.5
15.9

16.4

17.9

17.9

28.6

28.6

6.3

6.3

1.0

1.0

1.3

1.3

3.0

0.1
(5.9)

(2.8)

Fair value of plan assets

49.5

68.7

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

213

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS29. Pensions continued
A full actuarial valuation was carried out at 30 June 2022. The results of that valuation were updated to 31 March 2023 by a 
qualified independent actuary. The principal assumptions selected by Airwair International Limited and used by the actuary to 
calculate the Plan’s defined benefit obligation were:

Discount rate

Inflation assumption (RPI)

Inflation assumption (CPI)

LPI pension increases subject to 5% cap

LPI pension increases subject to 3% cap
Revaluation in deferment

Post retirement mortality assumption

Tax free cash

Proportion married at retirement or earlier death

Age difference

FY23 
£m

4.8%

3.3%

2.6%

3.2%

2.5%
2.6%

FY22 
£m

2.6%

3.6%

2.9%

3.5%

2.7%
2.9%

105% (males) and 111% 
(females) of S3PA tables, 
with allowance for future 
improvements in line with the 
CMI_2021 core projection 
model using 7.5% 2020 and 
2021 weight parameters, a 
long-term rate of 
improvement of 1.0% p.a. and 
an initial addition of 0.2%

100% for males and 102% for 
females of the S3PA tables 
with CMI_2020 projections 
using a 0% 2020 weight 
parameter, a long-term 
improvement rate of 1.00% 
p.a. and no initial addition

Members are assumed to 
take 50% of the maximum 
tax free cash possible

Members are assumed to take 
50% of the maximum tax free 
cash possible

80% of male members and 
65% of female members are 
assumed to be married at 
retirement or earlier death

70%

Males three years older than 
dependant, females one year 
younger than dependant

Males three years older than 
dependant, females three 
years younger than dependant

Assumed life expectancies on retirement at age 65 are:

Retiring today:

Retiring in 20 years’ time:

Male

Female

Male

Female

21.3

23.4

22.3

24.5

The key sensitivities of the defined benefit obligation to the actuarial assumptions are shown below:

Discount rate

Plus 0.5%

Minus 0.5%

Plus 1.0%

Minus 1.0%

Rate of inflation

Plus 0.5%

Minus 0.5%

Life expectancy

Plus 1.0 year

Minus 1.0 year

214

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

21.8

24.0

22.8

25.2

FY22 
£m

(4.2)

4.7

N/A

N/A

4.1

(3.7)

2.6

(2.6)

FY23 
£m

(2.2)

2.4

(4.4)

5.5

0.9

(0.7)

1.4

(1.4)

Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the year ended 31 March 2023 continued29. Pensions continued
The sensitivity illustrations set out in previous page are approximate. They show the likely effect of an assumption being adjusted 
while all other assumptions remain the same. Only the impact on the liability value (i.e. the defined benefit obligation) is considered 
– in particular:

•  no allowance is made for any changes to the value of the Plan’s invested assets in scenarios where interest rates or market 

inflation expectations change; and

•  no allowance is made for changes in the value of the annuity policies held by the Plan, which is calculated using the same actuarial 

assumptions as for the Plan’s defined benefit obligation.

Such changes to the asset values would be likely to partially offset the changes in the defined benefit obligation. 

The net Balance Sheet and Statement of Profit or Loss are not sensitive to the actuarial assumptions used at the current time, due 
to the effect of the asset ceiling.

30. Related party transactions
Transactions with related parties
Transactions between the Company and its wholly owned subsidiaries, which are related parties of the Company, have been eliminated 
on consolidation and are not disclosed in this note. A list of investments in subsidiary undertakings can be found in note 12 to the 
Parent Company financial statements.

Alter Domus1

Amounts incurred
Amounts payable by/(owed) at year end

Genesys1

Amounts incurred
Amounts payable by/(owed) at year end

Klarna1

Amounts incurred
Amounts payable by/(owed) at year end

TeamViewer1

Amounts incurred
Amounts payable by/(owed) at year end

Zendesk1

Amounts incurred

Amounts payable by/(owed) at year end

FY23 
£’000

–
–

FY22 
£’000

29.4
–

159.6
(4.7)

40.9
(0.6)

484.4
–

187.6
46.6

17.1
–

156.9

–

6.0
–

–

–

1.   Alter Domus, Genesys, Klarna, TeamViewer and Zendesk are related to the Group as they provide services or have a transactional relationship with the Group and are 
all investments within funds advised by Permira Advisers LLP. The Group’s largest investor, IngreLux S.àr.l., is also owned by funds advised by Permira Advisers LLP.

Key management personnel compensation 
The compensation of key management (including Executive Directors) for the year was as follows:

Salaries and benefits

Pensions

LTIPs – Share-based payments

FY23 
£m

5.5

0.2

0.9

FY22 
£m

8.7

0.2

2.7

31. Events after the reporting period
The Group will seek the necessary approvals at its forthcoming AGM for an initial share buyback programme of £50m. The buyback 
will involve shares worth £50m being purchased from the open market and cancelled upon redemption.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

215

FINANCIAL STATEMENTSPARENT 
COMPANY
STATEMENTS

IN THIS SECTION

In this section

Parent Company Balance Sheet 

Parent Company Statement 
of Changes in Equity 

Notes to the Parent Company 
Financial Statements 

217

218

219

216

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Parent Company Balance Sheet
As at 31 March 2023
Company registration number 12960219

Fixed assets
Investments

Current assets

Debtors
Cash and cash equivalents

Total assets

Current liabilities
Trade and other payables

Total liabilities

Net assets

Equity

Called up share capital

Capital reserve – own shares

Capital redemption reserve
Retained earnings

Total equity

Note

6

7
8

Total 
FY23 
£m

Total  
FY22  
£m

1,413.4

1,413.4

1,413.4

1,413.4

1.7
0.2

1.9

34.0
–

34.0

1,415.3

1,447.4

9

(10.5)

(30.9)

(10.5)

(30.9)

1,404.8

1,416.5

10

11

11
11

10.0

–

–
1,394.8

10.0

–

–
1,406.5

1,404.8

1,416.5

As permitted by section 408 of the Companies Act 2006, the Company’s Statement of Profit or Loss has not been included in these 
financial statements.

The Company generated a profit for the year to 31 March 2023 of £46.2m (FY22: £17.0m). 

The notes on pages 219 to 222 are an integral part of these financial statements.

The financial statements on pages 217 to 222 were approved and authorised by the Board of Directors on 31 May 2023 and signed  
on its behalf by:

KENNY WILSON   
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER  
31 May 2023 

JON MORTIMORE 
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER 
31 May 2023

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

217

FINANCIAL STATEMENTS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Parent Company Statement of Changes in Equity
for the year ended 31 March 2023

At 1 April 2021

Comprehensive income
Profit for the year

Total comprehensive income for the year

Dividends paid

Shares issued
Share-based payments

At 31 March 2022

Comprehensive income
Profit for the year

Total comprehensive income for the year

Dividends paid

Shares issued
Share-based payments

At 31 March 2023

Note

Share capital
£m

10.0

–

–

–

–
–

10.0

–

–

–

–
–

10.0

5

10

5

10

0

Capital 
reserve –  

own shares
£m

Capital 
redemption 
reserve
£m

–

–

–

–

–
–

–

–

–

–

–
–

–

–

–

–

–

–
–

–

–

–

–

–
–

–

Retained
earnings1
£m

Total equity1
£m

1,396.5

1,406.5

17.0

17.0

17.0

17.0

(12.2)

(12.2)

–
5.2

–
5.2

1,406.5

1,416.5

46.2

46.2

46.2

46.2

(58.4)

(58.4)

–
0.5

–
0.5

1,394.8

1,404.8

1.   The profits of Dr. Martens plc (the Company) for the year have been received in the form of dividends from subsidiary. The Directors consider that, based on the 

nature of these receivables and the available cash resources of the Group and other accessible sources of funds, at 31 March 2023, the Company has distributable 
reserves of £1,377.5m (FY22: £1,389.8m). 

218

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes to the Parent Company Financial Statements
for the year ended 31 March 2023

1. General information 
Dr. Martens plc (the ‘Company’) is a public company limited by shares incorporated in the United Kingdom, and registered and 
domiciled in England and Wales, whose shares are traded on the London Stock Exchange. The Company’s registered office is: 28 
Jamestown Road, Camden, London NW1 7BY. The principal activity of the Company and its subsidiaries (together referred to as the 
‘Group’) is the design, development, procurement, marketing, selling and distribution of footwear, under the Dr. Martens brand. 

2. Accounting policies
The principal accounting policies adopted in the preparation of the financial statements are set out below. The policies have been 
consistently applied to the periods presented, unless otherwise stated. Amounts are presented in GBP and to the nearest million 
pounds (to one decimal place) unless otherwise noted.

Basis of preparation
The financial statements of the Company have been prepared in accordance with Companies Act 2006, and Financial Reporting 
Standard 101 ‘Reduced Disclosure Framework’ (‘FRS 101’). The financial statements have been prepared on a going concern basis 
under the historical cost convention. FRS 101 enables the financial statements of the Company to be prepared in accordance with 
IFRS but with certain disclosure exemptions. The main areas of reduced disclosure are in respect of equity-settled share-based 
payments, financial instruments, the Statement of Cash Flows, and related party transactions with Group companies. The accounting 
policies adopted for the Company are otherwise consistent with those used for the Group which are set out on pages 177 to 187.  
As permitted by Section 408 of the Companies Act 2006, the Statement of Profit or Loss of the Company is not presented as part  
of the financial statements.

The preparation of financial statements in conformity with FRS 101 requires the use of certain critical accounting estimates. It also 
requires management to exercise its judgement in the process of applying the Company’s accounting policies. The areas involving  
a higher degree of judgement or complexity, or areas where assumptions and estimates are significant to the financial statements, 
are disclosed in the significant judgements and estimates section.

Financial Report Standard 101 – reduced disclosure exemptions
The change in basis of preparation has enabled the Company to take advantage of the applicable disclosure exemptions permitted 
by FRS 101 in the financial statements. The following disclosures have not been provided as permitted by FRS 101:

•  a cash flow statement and related notes;

•  a comparative period reconciliation for share capital;

•  disclosures in respect of transactions with wholly owned subsidiaries;

•  disclosures in respect of capital management;

•  the effects of new but not yet effective IFRS;

•  disclosures in respect of the compensation of key management personnel as required;

•  statement of compliance with all IFRS; and

•  an opening statement of financial position at the date of transition.

The Company has also taken the exemption under FRS 101 available in respect of the requirements of paragraphs 45(b) and 46 to 52 
of IFRS 2 (Share-based Payment) in respect of Group settled share-based payments as the Consolidated Financial Statements of the 
Company include the equivalent disclosures.

First time application of FRS 101
In the current year the Company has adopted FRS 101. In previous years the financial statements were prepared in accordance with 
United Kingdom Accounting Standards including FRS 102 ‘The Financial Reporting Standard applicable in the UK and Republic of 
Ireland’ (United Kingdom Generally Accepted Accounting Practice, UK GAAP).

The Company has revised its accounting policies in accordance with FRS 101, however this change in the basis of preparation has  
not materially altered the recognition, measurement and disclosure requirements previously applied in accordance with UK GAAP. 
The Company has elected to measure its investment in subsidiary using a deemed cost, being the previous GAAP carrying amount. 

Recognition and measurement bases for financial statement line items have not been altered as a result of this transition with the 
exception of the application of IFRS 9 for intercompany debtor balances, however this has not resulted in a material change in the 
provision recognised. 

The Company is required to inform its shareholders and provide a reasonable opportunity for its shareholders to object to the use  
of FRS 101. A shareholder or shareholders holding, in aggregate, 5% or more of the total allotted shares in Dr. Martens plc may 
object to the Company applying FRS 101 ‘Reduced Disclosure Framework’ to its individual financial statements by notifying the 
Company Secretary, in writing, at the registered address of the Company shown above by 13 July 2023.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

219

FINANCIAL STATEMENTSNotes to the Parent Company Financial Statements
for the year ended 31 March 2023 continued

2. Accounting policies continued
Going concern
The financial statements have been prepared on a going concern basis. The ability of the Company to continue as a going concern is 
contingent on the ongoing viability of the Group. The Directors have considered the business activities, as well as the principal risks, 
the other matters discussed in connection with the viability statement, and uncertainties faced by the business. Based on this 
information, and the Group’s trading and cash flow forecasts, the Directors are satisfied that the Group will maintain an adequate 
level of resources to be able to operate during the period under review. Refer to note 2.5 of the Consolidated Financial Statements 
for further information. 

Distributable reserves
When making a distribution to shareholder, the Directors determine the profits available for distribution by reference to guidance on 
realised and distributable profits under Companies Act 2006 issued by the Institute of Chartered Accountants in England and Wales. 

Investments
Investments are stated at cost less any provision for impairment.

Share-based payments
The Company provides benefits to employees in the form of share-based payment transactions, whereby employees render services 
as consideration in exchange for equity instruments (‘equity-settled transactions’). Refer to note 2.23 of the Consolidated Financial 
Statements for further information.

Dividends
Final dividends are recorded in the financial statements in the period in which they are approved by the Company’s shareholders. 
Interim dividends are recorded in the period in which they are approved and paid.

Significant judgements and estimates
The following judgements have had the most significant effect on amounts recognised in the financial statements:

Investments
The Company assesses, at each reporting date, whether there is an indication that any investment may be impaired. If any indication 
exists, or when annual impairment testing for an investment is required, the Company estimates the investment’s recoverable 
amount. In assessing an investment’s recoverable amount, the estimated future cash flows are discounted to their present value 
using a pre-tax discount rate that reflects current market assessments of the time value of money.

3. Staff costs
Other than the Directors, the Company had no employees during the year (FY22: none). Details of Directors’ remuneration can be 
found in note 7 to the Consolidated Financial Statements and in the Remuneration report on pages 139 to 150.

4. Auditor’s remuneration
The Company has incurred audit fees of £20,000 with PwC (FY22: EY £15,750) for the year.

5. Dividends
Details in respect of dividends proposed and paid during the year by the Company are included in note 11 to the Consolidated 
Financial Statements.

6. Investments

At 1 April
Acquisitions

At 31 March

FY23 
£m

1,413.4
–

1,413.4

FY22 
£m

1,413.4
–

1,413.4

The Company’s investment was tested for impairment and no charge was made in the current year (FY22: £nil).

The results of the Company’s impairment tests are dependent upon estimates and judgements made by management. Sensitivity 
analysis to potential changes in key assumptions have been reviewed and there are no reasonable possible changes to key 
assumptions that would cause the carrying amount to exceed its recoverable amount.

A list of the Company’s investments in subsidiary undertakings can be found in note 12.

220

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

7. Debtors

Social security and other taxes

Prepayments and accrued income
Amounts owed by subsidiary undertakings1

1.  Amounts owed by subsidiary undertakings are non-interest bearing trading balances and are repayable on demand. 

IFRS 9 expected credit losses have been assessed as immaterial in relation to both balances.

8. Cash and cash equivalents

Cash and cash equivalents

9. Trade and other payables

Trade creditors

Amounts due to subsidiary undertakings1

Accruals and deferred income
Taxation

FY23 
£m

–

0.8
0.9

1.7

FY23 
£m

0.2

FY23 
£m

0.1

10.3

0.1
–

10.5

1.  Amounts owed to subsidiary undertakings are non-interest bearing trading balances and are repayable on demand.

10. Called up share capital

Authorised, called up and fully paid

Ordinary shares of £0.01 each

FY23

No.

FY23

£m

FY22

No.

1,000,793,898

10.0

1,000,222,700

For details of share transactions during the year, refer to note 24 of the Consolidated Financial Statements.

The movements in the ordinary share capital during the year ended 31 March 2023 and 31 March 2022 were as follows:

FY22 
£m

0.1

0.5
33.4

34.0

FY22 
£m

–

FY22 
£m

0.5

27.8

2.4
0.2

30.9

FY22

£m

10.0

At 1 April 2022

Shares issued

At 31 March 2023

FY23

Shares 
No.

FY23

Share capital 
£m

FY22

Shares 
No.

FY22

Share capital 
£m

1,000,222,700

10.0

1,000,000,100

571,198

–

222,600

1,000,793,898

10.0

1,000,222,700

10.0

–

10.0

The cost of shares purchased by the SIP Trusts is offset against the profit and loss account, as the amounts paid reduced the profits 
available for distribution by the Company.

11. Reserves

Reserve

Description and purpose

Share capital

Nominal value of subscribed shares.

Capital reserve – 
own shares

This reserve relates to shares held by SIP Trusts as ‘treasury shares’. The shares held by the SIP Trusts were 
issued directly to the Trusts in order to satisfy outstanding employee share options and potential awards 
under the employee share incentive schemes. The Company issued shares directly to the Trusts of 93,228 
during the year and held 110,153 as at 31 March 2023 (31 March 2022: 16,925).

Capital redemption 
reserve 

A non-distributable reserve into which amounts are transferred following the redemption or purchase of own 
shares. The reserve was created in order to ensure sufficient distributable reserves were available for the 
purpose of redeeming preference shares in the prior years.

Retained earnings To recognise the profit or loss, all other net gains and losses and transactions with owners (e.g. dividends) 

not recognised elsewhere, and the value of equity-settled share-based awards provided to Executive 
Directors and other senior executives as part of their remuneration (refer to note 26 of the Consolidated 
Financial Statements for further details).

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

221

FINANCIAL STATEMENTSNotes to the Parent Company Financial Statements
for the year ended 31 March 2023 continued

12. Subsidiary undertakings
The registered address and principal place of business of each subsidiary undertaking are shown in the footnotes below the table. The 
financial performance and financial position of these undertakings have been consolidated in the Consolidated Financial Statements.

Airwair International Limited1

England and Wales £1 Ordinary shares

Country of registration Class of share capital held Direct

Indirect Nature of business

Nature of 
investment

England and Wales £1 Ordinary shares

England and Wales £1 Ordinary shares

England and Wales £1 Ordinary shares

England and Wales £1 Ordinary shares

–

–

–

–

–

100% Management company

100% Management company

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Management company

100% Property investment

England and Wales Ordinary

100% –

Management company

Name

Airwair (1994) Limited1

Airwair (1996) Limited1

Airwair Limited1

Airwair Property Limited1

Ampdebtco Limited2

DM Airwair Germany GmbH13

DM Airwair Sweden AB14

Capital of no par value –

100% Footwear retail and distribution

Dr. Martens Airwair (Ireland) Limited12

Republic of Ireland Ordinary

Germany

Sweden

Ordinary

Ordinary

Dr Martens Airwair Group Limited1

England and Wales Ordinary

Dr. Martens Airwair Trading (Zhuhai)  
Company Limited*4

Dr Martens Airwair Belgium SA8

Dr. Martens Airwair Canada Inc.19

Dr Martens Airwair France SAS9

China

Belgium

Canada

France

Dr. Martens Airwair Hong Kong Limited5

Hong Kong

Dr. Martens Airwair Japan K.K.7

Dr. Martens Airwair Korea Limited6

Dr. Martens Airwair Spain S.L.U.17

Dr. Martens Airwair USA LLC3

Japan

Korea

Spain

USA

Ordinary

Ordinary

Ordinary

Ordinary

Ordinary

Ordinary

Ordinary

–

–

–

–

–

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Manufacturing support

100% Footwear retail and distribution

–

–

–

–

–

–

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Management company

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Footwear retail and distribution

Capital of no par value –

100% Footwear retail and distribution

Dr Martens Airwair Wholesale Limited1

England and Wales £1 Ordinary shares

Dr Martens Airwair Italy S.R.L.15

Dr Martens Airwair Netherlands B.V.10

GFM GmbH Trademarks11

Shanghai Airwair Trading Limited*16

Dr. Martens Airwair Poland Z.o.o.20

Dr. Martens Airwair Denmark ApS21

Italy

Netherlands

Germany

China

Poland

Denmark

Ordinary

Ordinary

Ordinary

Ordinary

Ordinary

Ordinary

Dr Martens Airwair Limited 

England and Wales £1 Ordinary shares

Dr. Martens Sports & Leisure Limited1

England and Wales £1 Ordinary shares

Dr. Martens Airwair Singapore PTE Ltd18

Singapore

Ordinary

Dr Martens Airwair & Co. Limited1

England and Wales £1 Ordinary shares

Dr. Martens Dept. Store Limited1

England and Wales £1 Ordinary shares

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

–

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Footwear retail and distribution

50% Trademark registration

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Footwear retail and distribution

100% Dormant

100% Dormant

100% Dormant

100% Dormant

100% Dormant

*  The financial year of this entity ends on 31 December in line with local requirements.
1.  Cobb’s Lane, Wollaston, Northamptonshire, England, NN29 7SW.
2  28 Jamestown Road, Camden, London, England, NW1 7BY.
3.  16192 Coastal Hwy, Lewes, Delaware 19958, United States.
4.  No. 04B, F16. Seat B, No 2021, Jiuzhou Avenue West, Zhuhai 519000, Guangdong Province, China.
5.  Unit 2306-11, 23F, Sun Life Tower, The Gateway Tower 5, Harbour City, 15 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong.
6.  1F, Yanghwa-ro 10-gil 45, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea.
7.  5-2-28 Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo, Japan 150-0001.
8.  Avenue du Port 86C, Box 204, 1000 Brussels.
9.  5, Cité Trévise 75009 Paris, France.
10. Herikerbergweg 238, Luna Arena, 1101 CM Amsterdam, Netherlands.
11.  Seeshaupt, Landkreis Weilheim-Schongau, Germany. Note: this entity is equity accounted for and not consolidated.
12. 3rd Floor Kilmore House, Park Lane, Spencer Dock, Dublin 1, Republic of Ireland.
13. 5. Etage, Plane Mühle 2 40221 Düsseldorf, Germany.
14. Blekingegatan 48, 11662 Stockholm, Sweden.
15. Via Morimondo 26–20143 Milano, Italy.
16. No. 101-217, Floor 1, No.5 Building, Alley 128, Linhong Road, Changning District, Shanghai, China.
17.  C/Principe de Vergara, 112 4A Planta 28002, Madrid, Spain.
18. 77 Robinson Road, 13-00 Robinson 77, Singapore 068896.
19. 69 Wingold Avenue, Suite 107, Box 122, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M6B 1P8.
20. Rondo, Daszyn´skiego 2B, 00-843 Warsaw, Poland.
21. H.C. Andersens Boulevard 38, 3. Th, 1553, København, 1553 Langebro, Denmark.

222

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

ADDITIONAL 
INFORMATION

In this section
IN THIS SECTION

Five-year financial summary 
(unaudited) 

First half/second half analysis  
(unaudited) 

Glossary and Alternative  
Performance Measures (APMs) 

Shareholder information 

Company information 

224

226

227

229

230

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

223

ADDITIONAL INFORMATIONFive-year financial summary (unaudited)
For the year ended 31 March 2023

Revenue:

Ecommerce
Retail

DTC
Wholesale5

Gross profit
Operating expenses

EBITDA2

Profit before tax and exceptional items

Profit before tax3
Tax expense

Profit after tax

Earnings per share

Basic
Diluted

Underlying earnings per share

Basic
Diluted

Key statistics:

Pairs sold (m)

No. of stores4

DTC mix %

Gross margin %

EBITDA %

FY23
£m

FY22
£m

FY211
£m

FY20
£m

FY19
£m

279.0
241.7

520.7
479.6

1,000.3

618.1
(373.1)

245.0

159.4

159.4
(30.5)

128.9

262.4
185.6

448.0
460.3

908.3

578.8
(315.8)

263.0

214.3

214.3
(33.1)

181.2

235.4
99.7

335.1
437.9

773.0

470.5
(247.6)

222.9

150.2

69.7
(35.0)

34.7

136.4
165.2

301.6
370.6

672.2

401.5
(217.0)

184.5

113.0

101.0
(26.2)

74.8

72.7
126.7

199.4
255.0

454.4

260.5
(175.5)

85.0

34.1

28.9
(11.7)

17.2

CAGR
%

40%
18%

27%
17%

22%

24%
(21%)

30%

47%

53%
(27%)

65%

12.9p
12.9p

 18.1p 
 18.1p 

 3.5p 
 3.5p 

12.9p
12.9p

 17.4p 
 17.4p 

 14.4p 
 14.4p 

13.8

204

52%

61.8%

24.5%

14.1

158

49%

63.7%

29.0%

12.7

135

43%

60.9%

28.8%

11.1

122

45%

59.7%

27.4%

8.3

109

44%

57.3%

18.7%

14%

17%

1.   Results for the year ended 31 March 2021 have been retrospectively restated in relation to a change in accounting policy for the treatment of cloud-based software. 

This resulted in £nil impact on cash. 

2.  EBITDA – earnings before exchange gains/losses, finance income/expense, income tax, depreciation and amortisation, impairment and exceptional items.
3.  Post exceptional items.
4.  Own stores on streets and malls operated under arm’s length leasehold arrangements.
5.  Wholesale revenue including distributor customers.

224

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Revenue by region:

EMEA

America
APAC

Revenue mix:

EMEA %

America %
APAC %

EBITDA2 by region:

EMEA

America

APAC
Group support costs

EBITDA % by region:

EMEA 

America 
APAC

FY23
£m

FY22
£m

FY211
£m

FY20
£m

FY19
£m

443.0

428.2
129.1

1,000.3

398.5

382.7
127.1

908.3

44%

43%
13%

44%

42%
14%

335.6

295.8
141.6

773.0

44%

38%
18%

 287.9 

 252.2 
 132.1 

 195.1 

 161.1 
 98.2 

 672.2 

 454.4 

43%

37%
20%

43%

35%
22%

CAGR
%

23%

28%
7%

22%

146.1

100.1

33.8
(35.0)

143.8

120.0

32.6
(33.4)

 115.3 

 91.9 

 39.7 
(24.0)

 92.4 

 75.4 

 35.5 
(18.8)

245.0

263.0

 222.9 

 184.5 

 39.5 

 33.0 

 23.7 
(11.2)

 85.0 

39%

32%

9%
(33%)

30%

33.0%

23.4%
26.2%

24.5%

36.1%

31.4%
25.6%

29.0%

34.4%

31.1%
28.0%

28.8%

32.1%

29.9%
26.9%

27.4%

20.2%

20.5%
24.1%

18.7%

1.   Results for the year ended 31 March 2021 have been retrospectively restated in relation to a change in accounting policy for the treatment of cloud-based software. 

This resulted in £nil impact on cash. 

2.  EBITDA – earnings before exchange gains/losses, finance income/expense, income tax, depreciation and amortisation, impairment and exceptional items.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

225

ADDITIONAL INFORMATIONFirst half/second half analysis (unaudited)
For the year ended 31 March 2023

H1

H2

Unaudited
FY23
£m

Unaudited
FY22
£m

Variance
%

Unaudited
FY23
£m

Unaudited
FY22
£m

Variance
%

Audited
FY23
£m

Revenue by channel:
Ecommerce
Retail

DTC
Wholesale4

Gross profit
EBITDA1
Profit before tax2
Tax expense

Profit after tax

Earnings per share
Basic
Diluted

Underlying EPS

Basic
Diluted

Key statistics:
Pairs sold (m)
No. of stores3
DTC mix %
Gross margin %
EBITDA1 %

Revenue by region:
EMEA

America
APAC

Revenue mix:
EMEA %
America %
APAC %

EBITDA1 by region:
EMEA
America
APAC
Support costs

EBITDA1 margin:
EMEA
America
APAC

Total

88.8
91.0

179.8
238.8

418.6

257.8
88.8
57.9
(13.2)

82.6
65.9

148.5
221.4

369.9

226.6
88.8
61.3
(12.7)

44.7

48.6

8%
38%

21%
8%

13%

14%
–
-5%
-4%

-8%

 190.2 
 150.7 

 340.9 
 240.8 

179.8
119.7

299.5
238.9

581.7 

538.4

 360.3 
 156.2 
 101.5 
(17.3)

352.2
174.2
153.0
(20.4)

 84.2 

132.6

6%
26%

14%
1%

8%

2%
-10%
-34%
-15%

-37%

FY

Audited
FY22
£m

262.4
185.6

448.0
460.3

 279.0 
 241.7 

 520.7 
479.6

1,000.3 

908.3

 618.1 
 245.0 
 159.4 
(30.5)

578.8
263.0
214.3
(33.1)

 128.9 

181.2

Variance
%

6%
30%

16%
4%

10%

7%
-7%
-26%
-8%

-29%

4.5p
4.5p

 4.8p 
 4.8p 

-6%
-6%

8.4p
8.4p

 13.3p 
 13.3p 

-37%
-37%

12.9p
12.9p

 18.1p 
 18.1p 

-29%
-29%

4.5p
4.5p

 4.8p 
 4.8p 

-6%
-6%

8.4p
8.4p

 12.6p 
 12.6p 

-33%
-33%

12.9p
12.9p

 17.4p 
 17.4p 

-26%
-26%

6.3
174
43%

–
6.3
18%
147
+3pts
40%
61.6% 61.3% +0.3pts
21.2% 24.0% -2.8pts

7.5
204
59%

-4%
7.8
29%
158
+3pts
56%
61.9% 65.4% -3.5pts
26.9% 32.4% -5.5pts

13.8
204
52%

-2%
14.1
29%
158
+3pts
49%
61.8% 63.7% -1.9pts
24.5% 29.0% -4.5pts

179.0

179.7
59.9

167.6

147.5
54.8

418.6

369.9

7%

22%
9%

13%

 264.0 

 248.5 
 69.2 

230.9

235.2
72.3

14%

6%
-4%

 443.0 

398.5

 428.2 
 129.1 

382.7
127.1

 581.7 

538.4

8% 1,000.3 

908.3

43%
43%
14%

45%
40%
15%

-2pts
+3pts
-1pts

45%
43%
12%

43%
44%
13%

+2pts
-1pts
-1pts

44%
43%
13%

44%
42%
14%

52.8
41.4
13.1
(18.5)

88.8

55.2
40.0
10.7
(17.1)

88.8

-5%
4%
22%
-8%

 93.3 
 58.7 
 20.7 
(16.5)

88.6
80.0
21.9
(16.3)

–

 156.2 

174.2

5%
-27%
-5%
1%

-10%

 146.1 
 100.1 
 33.8 
(35.0)

143.8
120.0
32.6
(33.4)

 245.0 

263.0

11%

12%
2%

10%

–
+1pts
-1pts

2%
-17%
4%
5%

-7%

29.5% 32.9% -3.4pts
23.0%
27.1% -4.1pts
21.9% 19.5% +2.4pts

35.3% 38.4% -3.1pts
23.6% 34.0% -10.4pts
29.9% 30.3% -0.4pts

33.0% 36.1% -3.1pts
23.4% 31.4% -8.0pts
26.2% 25.6% +0.6pts

21.2% 24.0% -2.8pts

26.9% 32.4% -5.5pts

24.5% 29.0% -4.5pts

1.  EBITDA – earnings before exchange gains/losses, finance income/expense, income tax, depreciation and amortisation, impairment and exceptional items.
2.  Post exceptional items.
3.  Own stores on streets and malls operated under arm’s length leasehold arrangements.
4.  Wholesale revenue including distributor customers.

226

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Glossary and Alternative Performance Measures (APMs) 

The Group tracks a number of key performance measures (KPIs) including Alternative Performance Measures (APMs) in managing 
its business, which are not defined or specified under the requirements of IFRS because they exclude amounts that are included in, 
or include amounts that are excluded from, the most directly comparable measures calculated and presented in accordance with 
IFRS or are calculated using financial measures that are not calculated in accordance with IFRS.

The Group believes that these APMs, which are not considered to be a substitute for or superior to IFRS measures, provide 
stakeholders with additional helpful information on the performance of the business. These APMs are consistent with how the 
business performance is planned and reported within the internal management reporting to the Board. 

The Group is no longer presenting underlying operating cash flow, EBITDA post exceptional items, adjusted PBT and adjusted EPS.  
In previous years these metrics were introduced to present existing performance measures exclusive of exceptional costs. The Group 
recognised £nil exceptional costs in FY23 and FY22, as such these adjusted measures are no longer relevant.

These APMs should be viewed as supplemental to, but not as a substitute for, measures presented in the Consolidated Financial 
Statements relating to the Group, which are prepared in accordance with IFRS. The Group believes that these APMs are useful 
indicators of its performance. However, they may not be comparable with similarly titled measures reported by other companies due 
to differences in the way they are calculated.

Metric

Revenue

Definition

Rationale

Revenue per financial statements.

Revenue by 
geographical market

Revenue per Group’s geographical 
segments. 

Revenue: EMEA

Revenue: America

Revenue: APAC

Revenue by channel

Revenue: ecommerce Revenue from Group’s ecommerce platforms.

Revenue: retail

Revenue: DTC

Revenue: wholesale

Revenue from Group’s own stores  
(including concessions).

Revenue from the Group’s direct-to-
consumer (DTC) channel (= ecommerce  
plus retail revenue).

Revenue from the Group’s business-to-
business channel, revenue to wholesale 
customers, distributors and franchisees.

Constant currency 
basis

Gross margin

Non-GBP results with the same exchange 
rate applied to the current and prior periods, 
based on the current budgeted rates.

Revenue less cost of sales (raw materials 
and consumables).

Cost of sales is disclosed in the Consolidated 
Statement of Profit or Loss.

Gross margin %

Gross margin divided by revenue.

Opex

EBITDA

Selling and administrative expenses and 
finance expenses less depreciation, 
amortisation, foreign exchange gains/
(losses) and finance expense.

Helps evaluate growth trends, establish 
budgets and assess operational performance 
and efficiencies.

Helps evaluate growth trends, establish 
budgets and assess operational performance 
and efficiencies.

APM

No

KPI

Yes

No

Yes

Helps evaluate growth trends, establish 
budgets and assess operational performance 
and efficiencies.

No

Yes

Presenting results of the Group excluding 
exchange volatility.

No

No

Helps evaluate growth trends, establish 
budgets and assess operational performance 
and efficiencies.

No

No

Helps evaluate growth trends, establish 
budgets and assess operational performance 
and efficiencies.

Yes

No

Opex is used to reconcile between gross 
margin and EBITDA.

Yes

No

Profit/(loss) for the year before income tax 
expense, financing expense, exchange 
gains/(losses), depreciation of right-of-use 
assets, depreciation, amortisation and 
exceptional items.

EBITDA is used as a key profit measure 
because it shows the results of normal, core 
operations exclusive of income or charges 
that are not considered to represent the 
underlying operational performance.

Yes

Yes

Exceptional items are material items that 
are considered exceptional in nature by 
virtue of their size and/or incidence.

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

227

ADDITIONAL INFORMATIONAPM

Yes

KPI

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

No

Yes

No

No

Yes

No

Yes

Glossary and Alternative Performance Measures (APMs) continued

Metric

EBITDA %

Definition

Rationale

EBITDA divided by revenue.

Operating cash flow

EBITDA less change in net working capital, 
share-based payment expense and capital 
expenditure.

Operating cash flow 
conversion

Operating cash flow divided by EBITDA.

Helps evaluate growth trends, establish 
budgets and assess operational performance 
and efficiencies.

Operating cash flow is used as a trading cash 
generation measure because it shows the 
results of normal, core operations exclusive 
of income or charges that are not considered 
to represent the underlying operational 
performance.

Used to evaluate the efficiency of a 
company’s operations and its ability to 
employ its earnings toward repayment of 
debt, capital expenditure and working capital 
requirements.

Free cash flow

Operating cash flow less cash outflows for 
exceptional items, net interest paid, 
taxation, and lease liabilities.

Free cash flow is used as a net cash flow 
measure for the Group before changes in the 
debt/capital structure.

Consolidated non-
GAAP Statement of 
Cash Flows

Movement in cash flows from EBITDA.

Earnings per share 

IFRS measure

To aid the understanding of the reader of the 
financial statements of how the Group’s cash 
and cash equivalents changed during the 
period, including cash inflows and outflows in 
the period.

This indicates how much money a company 
makes for each share of its stock, and is a 
widely used metric to estimate company value.

Basic earnings per 
share

The calculation of earnings per ordinary 
share is based on earnings after tax and the 
weighted average number of ordinary 
shares in issue during the period/year.

A higher EPS indicates greater value because 
investors will pay more for a company’s 
shares if they think the company has higher 
profits relative to its share price.

Diluted earnings per 
share

Calculated by dividing the profit attributable 
to ordinary equity holders of the parent by 
the weighted average number of ordinary 
shares in issue during the period/year plus 
the weighted average number of ordinary 
shares that would have been issued on the 
conversion of all dilutive potential ordinary 
shares into ordinary shares.

Used to gauge the quality of EPS if all 
convertible securities were exercised.

No

No

Underlying EPS 
(previously normalised 
adjusted EPS)

EPS is calculated as earnings before taking 
into account exceptional items, preference 
share interest and prior year tax deductions.

Reconciliation of EPS from the Remuneration 
Committee report.

Yes

Yes

Ecommerce mix %

Ecommerce revenue as a percentage of 
total revenue.

Helps evaluate progress towards strategic 
objectives.

DTC mix %

DTC revenue as a percentage of total 
revenue.

Helps evaluate progress towards strategic 
objectives.

No. of stores

Number of 'own' stores open in the Group.

Pairs

Pairs of footwear sold during a period.

Helps evaluate progress towards strategic 
objectives.

Used to show volumes and growths in the 
Group.

No

Yes

No

Yes

No

Yes

No

Yes

228

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Shareholder information

Analysis of share register
Ordinary shares 
As at 31 March 2023, the Company had 458 registered holders of ordinary shares. Their shareholdings are analysed below.

Range of shareholding

1-500

501-1,000

1,001-2,000

2,001-5,000

5,001-10,000

10,001-100,000

100,001-1,000,000
1,000,001 to highest

Totals

Number of  

shareholders

Percentage of  

total shareholders

35

22

19

36

31

113

118
84

7.64%

4.80%

4.15%

7.86%

6.77%

24.67%

25.76%
18.34%

Total number  

Percentage issued  

of shares

6,086

17,383

29,147

121,001

246,489

4,081,833

45,681,559
950,610,400

share capital

0.00%

0.00%

0.00%

0.01%

0.02%

0.41%

4.56%
94.99%

458

100.00%

1,000,793,898

100.00%

If you think you have been approached by an unauthorised firm, 
you should contact the FCA consumer helpline on 0800 111 6768.

More detailed information and guidance for shareholders on 
how to avoid scams can be found on the FCA’s website at  
www.fca.org.uk/consumers/protect-yourself/unauthorised-firms.

AGM
The AGM will be held at Holiday Inn London-Camden Lock,  
30 Jamestown Road, Camden, NW1 7BY at 9:30am on Thursday 
13 July 2023. Shareholders are strongly encouraged not to 
attend the meeting in person and to send any questions they 
may have for the Board, that relate to the business of the 
meeting, in advance by email to company.secretariat@drmartens.
com. Questions relating to the business of the meeting can be 
emailed to and will be responded to in full. We will also publish all 
answers to any questions submitted that relate to the business 
of the meeting, together with the full voting results for the 2023 
AGM, on www.drmartensplc.com shortly after the meeting.

Website
The investor section of Dr. Martens’ corporate website, 
drmartensplc.com, contains a wide range of information 
including regulatory news, results announcements, share price 
information and information about our Board and Committees. 

It is also possible to sign up to receive regulatory news relating 
to Dr. Martens plc alerts by email at  
www.drmartensplc.com/investors/regulatory-news/rns-alerts/.

Our privacy policy
Our privacy policy, which sets out how Dr. Martens collects and 
uses personal information, can be found at  
www.drmartensplc.com/privacy-policy.

Shareholders’ enquiries
Any shareholder with enquiries relating to their shareholding 
should, in the first instance, contact our registrar, Equiniti, using 
the telephone number or address on this page.

Electronic shareholder communications
Shareholders can elect to receive communications by email each 
time the Company distributes documents, instead of receiving 
paper copies. This can be done by registering via Shareview at 
no extra cost, at www.shareview.co.uk. In the event that you 
change your mind or require a paper version of any document  
in the future, please contact the registrar.

Access to Shareview allows shareholders to view details about 
their holdings, submit a proxy vote for shareholder meetings 
and notify a change of address. In addition to this, shareholders 
have the opportunity to complete dividend mandates online 
which facilitates the payment of dividends directly into a 
nominated account.

Financial calendar
Announcement of full year results 

1 June 2023

Ex-dividend date for final dividend 

8 June 2023

Record date for final dividend 

Annual General Meeting 

Payment date for final dividend 

9 June 2023

13 July 2023

18 July 2023

Announcement of half year results 

30 November 2023

Shareholder security
Shareholders should be very wary of any unsolicited advice, 
offers to buy shares at a discount, or offers of free company 
reports. These are typically from purported ‘brokers’ who target 
UK shareholders with offers to sell them what often turn out to 
be worthless or high-risk shares in US or UK investments. These 
operations are commonly known as boiler rooms. If you receive 
any unsolicited investment advice, get the correct name of the 
person and organisation, and check that they are properly 
authorised by the FCA before getting involved. This can be done 
by visiting www.fca.org.uk/register. 

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

229

ADDITIONAL INFORMATIONCompany information

Registered office
28 Jamestown Road  
Camden 
London  
NW1 7BY

Investor relations
investor.relations@drmartens.com

Registrar
Equiniti Limited 
Aspect House  
Spencer Road  
Lancing 
West Sussex  
BN99 6DA

Tel: 0371 384 2030 (from the UK) 
Tel: +44 121 4157047 (from overseas)

Independent auditor
PricewaterhouseCoopers LLP
1 Embankment Place 
London 
WC2N 6RH 

Tel: +44 (0) 20 7583 5000

230

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Notes

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

231

ADDITIONAL INFORMATIONNotes

232

DR. MARTENS PLC  ANNUAL REPORT 2023

Dr. Martens plc’s commitment to environmental issues is 
reflected in this Annual Report, which has been printed on 
Evolution Offset, manufactured from 100% recycled 
post-consumer waste, FSC® and ISO 14001 certified material.

This document was printed by Principal Colour, accredited to 
the ISO 14001 Environmental Management System with 99% 
of dry waste diverted from landfill, minimising the impact of 
printing on the environment.

The publication is CarbonNeutral®.

Designed and produced by three thirty studio 
www.threethirty.studio

DR. MARTENS PLC
28 Jamestown Rd
Camden
London NW1 7BY

drmartensplc.com

Dr. Martens plc

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